Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Doesn't solve the problem of the rusty car, but $200 ain't putting a dent in that problem so you may as well have a good time you will remember far longer than your roll of DA paper and Bondo!
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Two Shanghai Whores, a liter of Johnnie Walker Black, a six pack of Coke Zero and have room service send up a a bucket of ice and a supply of condoms...
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"Welcome to the Dark Side"
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I have to apologise to the board, ending of last year there was a Japanese Magazine that did EXACTLY what is being discussed in this thread: Gutting the Carbies and running them as EFI ITB's. The performance bump was noticable and across the board compared to the carbs appropriately dyno tuned.
In the last 8 months I've had 20 days 'off' and of those 19 were vacation days to see my father for Christmas so he didn't spend the first holiday after my mom's passing alone, and going to Frank280ZX's place for Spa Weekend. I just haven't had enough time to scan the article and post it up. Even as Japanese article, it's photos are worth their weight in gold. This conversion in Japan is becoming so common now there are companies offering bolt-on TPS adapters for any of the popular side-drafts.
Don't even get into what I saw there earlier this month...
I'm still in shock/recovering! Maybe I'll quit work and have all the time in the world to post these cool magazine articles. But since I haven't all I can say is "sorry guys" -- I'm sure someone would take something away from the article, if even looking at the photos and before/after dyno charts!
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I skipped everything and will respond to the original post/question.
I would skip the rebore to 45mm. 40mm ITB is PLENTY for the street.
I have done this on old style Toyota Mikuni 40PHH's... they utilised a 40mm bore, but a 44mm set of main venturis. They necked them down with sleeves which all the racers removed to give a 44mm bore (and 44mm trumpet) to the main choke.
When converting them to EFI, I copy the original spacer appropriately lengthening it to accomodate the original choke length as well, with the 44mm OD, but with a taper from the gasket flange to the 40mm bore.
If you look at your EFI Speed throttle bodies in OZ, you will see they offer this option on their 'race' ITB's.
This is what I would do with your Dellortos. Don't spend the money to bore them to 45mm. Leave them at 40. Make a tapered piece that will accommodate the length from back of the choke to front face of the carbie as a tapered section. Won't cost any more than the boring and you can then return the carbies to carbies whenever you want. This gives you a lead-in taper almost directly to the throttle plate, which you can then continue in the manifold to the head.
Really where you increase the diameter doesn't matter. FIA Homogolation has the gasket surface of the head at 35.5mm on the intake ports or something like that. So porting the head (gas flowing) shouldn't have you larger than that. Set the manifold to taper from 35.5 to 40mm at the intake manifold mounting flange, and from the back of the choke to the front of the carb body run whatever taper is appropriate to fill the space with a spacer that is held in place just like the stock venturi and booster.
The airflow from 40mm ITB's kills, well easily into the 300+HP range N/A on a 2.8L L6. And turbo? Who knows, but it's well over 700HP...WELL over 700 HP!
How much are you shooting for that you think you need 45mm bores and the bother that that entails?
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The fuel supply hose on the 280Z was 8mm.
Return was 6 mm.
Feed to the pump from the tank was 12mm.
That means in English Equivalent:
5/16"
1/4"
7/16"
For the record.
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Yeah, I saw those....in person!
Speed hunters has a better camera than my Nikon P7000...
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Well, that's good news on the traditional 20-Year historical BS with SB100 is better at the moment.
Maybe it's time to get that Lambo registered in the back yard and skirt those regulations on compliance and emissions...
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On a Mustang Dyno you can go from nothing to fully hitting all the load cells of a given EMS system in about 45 minutes if you have a good cooling system and fan on the radiator.
Full Throttle Curve should be optimized in about 15 minutes, and the rest of the time is holding at load points. Where the throttle is puts you at the load points so TPS (unless you are using TPS based EFI for some reason like huge cam no MAP below 4000rpms) is pretty much irrelevant. MAP/RPM will set you up.
The original 8X8 MS tables were QUICK. In about 20 minutes you were optimized and had better throttle response than stock EMS. The time is in warmup, accel enrichment, decel enrichment, hot restart enrichment, cold to warm curve, decel fuel cut, etc...
You can get the car done in an hour on the dyno, but all the tweaks for cold and off-operating temperature smooth operation can take a few hours over the next couple of months of starts from cold...
After that, it's SET. Leave it alone!
But this thread is just going wild with conjecture. Quantify what you have and stop with the nebulous comments "Big Cam" idling at 950 and lopey? Not even close! Hell, that could be a vacuum leak.
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On a Mustang Dyno you can go from nothing to fully hitting all the load cells of a given EMS system in about 45 minutes if you have a good cooling system and fan on the radiator.
Full Throttle Curve should be optimized in about 15 minutes, and the rest of the time is holding at load points. Where the throttle is puts you at the load points so TPS (unless you are using TPS based EFI for some reason like huge cam no MAP below 4000rpms) is pretty much irrelevant. MAP/RPM will set you up.
The original 8X8 MS tables were QUICK. In about 20 minutes you were optimized and had better throttle response than stock EMS. The time is in warmup, accel enrichment, decel enrichment, hot restart enrichment, cold to warm curve, decel fuel cut, etc...
You can get the car done in an hour on the dyno, but all the tweaks for cold and off-operating temperature smooth operation can take a few hours over the next couple of months of starts from cold...
After that, it's SET. Leave it alone!
But this thread is just going wild with conjecture. Quantify what you have and stop with the nebulous comments "Big Cam" idling at 950 and lopey? Not even close! Hell, that could be a vacuum leak.
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On a Mustang Dyno you can go from nothing to fully hitting all the load cells of a given EMS system in about 45 minutes if you have a good cooling system and fan on the radiator.
Full Throttle Curve should be optimized in about 15 minutes, and the rest of the time is holding at load points. Where the throttle is puts you at the load points so TPS (unless you are using TPS based EFI for some reason like huge cam no MAP below 4000rpms) is pretty much irrelevant. MAP/RPM will set you up.
The original 8X8 MS tables were QUICK. In about 20 minutes you were optimized and had better throttle response than stock EMS. The time is in warmup, accel enrichment, decel enrichment, hot restart enrichment, cold to warm curve, decel fuel cut, etc...
You can get the car done in an hour on the dyno, but all the tweaks for cold and off-operating temperature smooth operation can take a few hours over the next couple of months of starts from cold...
After that, it's SET. Leave it alone!
But this thread is just going wild with conjecture. Quantify what you have and stop with the nebulous comments "Big Cam" idling at 950 and lopey? Not even close! Hell, that could be a vacuum leak.
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ITB as in EFI?
Nominal size for ports was 35mm by FIA Homogolation rules, and if you look most guys with properly ported heads for EFI won't have ports far off from that diameter at the intake/head gasket joint.
Work from that point backwards to get what you want/need...
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Is there a big issue with L-Heads "Lifting"? It ain't a 5.0 Ford running 1400HP.... The main reason studs are used is ease of teardown and refresh during the season. As the threads are installed to the block permanently without real torque, and only under tension, they don't wear and subsequently give a repeatable clamping force compared to bolts which, when re-used, polish the threads decreasing friction. This friction can account to up to 15% of the total torque you register on the wrench. Generally only about 10% of the torque actually goes to clamping. If you decrease the friction under head (75%), or on the threads(15%), then you over-stretch the fastener and can precipitate a tensile failure. The reason you use new bolts each time is specifically to PREVENT THIS! You don't RE-USE ARP FASTENERS EITHER! They are VERY specific: their nuts are to be used ONCE and chucked. For the EXACT same reason. Run the threads one time and you decrease their friction. If you aren't using angle-turn fasteners and only torque as an indication of 'tight' you end up breaking bolts. This has been covered before.
How the hell did you fracture a bolt 3-4 threads INTO the block? That would seem to be pulling out 3-4 threads FROM the block if it fractured there.
Generally the failure point is the first thread out of the block where there is a stress concentration.
I got to wonder what you did to a new bolt to get it to break. Something big is missing from this story either in calibration or technique.
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There was a gentleman who wanted to argue the capacity of the 260Z and I ran my tank dry and filled it, and repeated.
For all the vaunted 16 gallon capacity, 11-13 gallons is ALL you will ever get in there depending on how far up the neck you go, and how low you let it get while driving.
If you can see fuel in the filler neck bottom, chances are you are "FULL" and if you fill like I do to get 11-12 each time (I go with 1-2 gallons in the tank usually...hell I fill based on mileage more than gas gauge from experience...) and get the level to within 2" of the top of the neck, you KNOW you should be reading 'F' on the gauge. If you're not, your gauge is drifted. Welcome to the club.
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The SB100 Allotment of cars is expired in about 15 minutes after the first DMV Office opens each year. They're all Cobra Guys.
I know people who have tried for over 5 years to get an SB100 registration and they're gone before you even start!
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P/proportional
I/integral
D/derivative
P=Amount of distance away from target over (or under)1 usually the larger the number the smaller the movement made.
I=Time component acting usually as multiplier, as offset is noted, each integral time will act as precious p value calculated move plus the new calculated. Big I numbers can keep large swings under control. The longer the value is off setpoint the larger the move made will be. A big number will make slow response a small number will have it twitchy, and can make for radical swings into hysteresis if P number is small (fast acting) and the process is laggy
D=this is derivative, the acts and works of the devil and gives you anticipatory action based on rate of change sensed. Usually if you aren't fuzzy logic, best to leav D alone. Unfortunately PI controllers are either slow or fast and react constant-rate with an offset from setpoint moving linearly.
To get a different rate at start opposed to near target, likely som derivative action will be necessary.
Crap, iPhone down to 4%.... crapcrapcrapcarp!
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I run 91 in the 260zotherwise it's ping city. Even with 91 it rattles. Probably time to retard the timing a tad, or go EFI...
Fuel distribution does wonders some times!
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Burnt valves and melted pistons are more an effect of lean mixtures which may or may or may not be detonating.
I'm with the "any detonation experienced?" crowd. And what "race gas" did you use. What did your AFR do during the test... Matter of fact, where's the dyno printout?
Before you go fixing something... Make sure it's broken in the first place!!!
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If you're in LA, just have a 15" rim welded to your 14" Center.
Cheap and looks stock!
I know guys that did 16" like that on all five steel centres. JDM base model Center caps and generic beauty rings keeps it looking disturbingly stock!
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Well compared to the door or ignition...
I have a low tolerance for popping those two particular licks apart.
But I told ya it wasn't rocket science!
Glad you got your stuff done!
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Yes, the SB100 is a pipe dream...
The Federal Issuance of post-dated VIN's probably won't happen in my lifetime.
Certified specialty manufacturers (Carrol Shelby...) does some things based on old VIN Records..but...
Really the way to do it is bring the part in just as that: a part. Likely its cheapest as far as customs duties will be, then the patchwork of individual states registration rules would come into play for construction.
Once it's registered in one place, it's reciprocal across the nation. Like importing into Belgium, registering in Ireland then crossing the border and going into the UK proper...
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From empty on your gauge, what does the pump say you take as a fillup?
My 260 won't take more than 12 gallons usually. Generally 11 unless I run to fumes.
The gauges drift...
And as stated, the tank side fills below centreline. If the vent lines are all plugged an air pocket can form depriving you if quite a bit of volume.
Generally leaks off the top of the tank are the problem, though.
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Bought my VW Microbus in 1980 with 135,000 miles on it. Still have it today.
Bought my Z in 1985. Still have it today. I know the prior owner who bought it off the original owner.
My "Blue Turd" I bought in 94 I believe...maybe earlier, but put it on the road then. Turned over 103,000 miles with me driving it since then.
And that's saying something when I've had company vehicles at my disposal for all my driving needs 1989-2008!
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Bought my VW Microbus in 1980 with 135,000 miles on it. Still have it today.
Bought my Z in 1985. Still have it today. I know the prior owner who bought it off the original owner.
My "Blue Turd" I bought in 94 I believe...maybe earlier, but put it on the road then. Turned over 103,000 miles with me driving it since then.
And that's saying something when I've had company vehicles at my disposal for all my driving needs 1989-2008!
I'm still in shock/recovering! 
Fuel tank vent hose
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
My solution is in the archives, there is a McFadden-Dale Hardware with the adapter fittings in Phoenix.