Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Looks like the powerplant from an A/N -60A Gas Turbine Generator Set.
From which, if you condemn the tachometer you have a 6000 rpm = 100% unit that looks bitchenwicked in your dashboard.
Nothing as ominous to your passengers than a 720 degree rotation tachometer reading out 45% going down the road at 65mph! Even better us running down the road at 110%!!!
Yes, I am serious.
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You guys are complaining that you don't have to lay in the dirt to change a starter any longer?!?!?????
Ungrateful BASTARDS!
383 Chrysler, long tube headers, spring, dirt parking lot and 32.5F so NOTHING is solid!
I would have KILLED to do a manifold yank and change the starter!
Oh, and remember to disconnect the battery before you drop that starter onto the headers...
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Kid, Wife, House...
Any more need to be said?
Maybe surface at ZCON 2012 in Phoenix...
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Find the kid in a dark alley with a baseball bat.
Recover your damages (or "transfer them") in the Fat Tony way of insurance "adjustment"!
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Did it ever leave the middle east?
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"Running up post count to post in classifieds"
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I will plan on it, Frank & Ian bought tickets this past week so I'm told. Arrive April 25, take in MSA, a week of running about, do the Mojave Mile the following weekend, and depart May 7th!
Busy Z time of the year in So Calfor me!
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Well, Josh Inline 6 & me.
The only ones who mentioned measurement before jumping into the "throw parts at it parade"!
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You can't simply line bore the towers (any line bore, unless oversize, this being true)
The bearing bores must first be made undersized, then bored back to standard at correct Center-to-Center distance.
There is NOT enough material remaining for line boring.
And for the record, Bluestang did not mention lineboring, he postulated the machine shop made the mistake thinking there were bearing inserts used in the towers...
Without measurements it's all useless theory. No diametrical dimensional checks were done, or if they were dimensions were not provided. Frankly Josh was the only voice of reason providing an answer of practicality---they DONT need to be mirror finish, they DO need to be dimensionally correct.
Pulling two sets of towers and manually lining them up us a LOT more work than getting a set of snap gauges and MEASURING them to determine if they are OVERSIZED, therefore ruined, and THEN calling for replacement or line boring.
Replacing them because they have a surface profile is stupid without a dimensional check beforehand.
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I've used them for years. In fact I've misapplied them to repair vacuum pumps and liquid ring pumps as well!
I don't recall now if the instructions call for it, but I've installed them with Loctite RC608 cylindrical parts locker with great effect.
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"Working on an S20 version"?
It was installed on the white and red box skyline one row over!
My favourite was the test ride in the Rocky Auto 1UZ-Powered Box Skyline! But that wasn't on the weekend... It was Wednesday after the show at their shop.
Whatcha know... Rocky Auto is a short drive from one of my customers!!!
I wouldn't worry about longevity on gear drives for Camshafts... It's FAR less than chain stretch in the same time period. I checked the backlash on their setup and it's TIGHT at room temperature. Far more accurate than ANY chain!
I'd look forward to the adaptation to the stock L-Gata SOHC configuration!
The Z build has considerable changes from the original 80's version. Talking with the booth guys, the oldest one there said the name IMMEDIATELY of the owner of the car in Okinawa that I'd ridden along with back in 85/86. They know where their stuff is, throwing doubt on the claims OS someone who claimed in the 90's to have gotten one of their heads for testing and porting...
Still a whizz-bang lookit me accessory IMO, but a MUCH IMPROVED whizz-bang lookit me accessory.
I had no Internet till now, so no post from me. I'll have to try to get the videos of the cars doing their parade laps, good sounds!
I spent a butt oaf of money on archival material at the show...
I completely forgot about it, until a frenzied e-mail exchange had me on too many planes, trains, and automobiles Friday evening for a meeting in Hiroshima... I arrive at NRT early Saturday morning and I'm greeted by Okamura-San with "Tony San, thank you for coming...Nostalgia Two Days this weekend -- you go?"
Damn those required entertainment expenses! :^P
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WOAH WOAH WOAH WOAH!
Have ANY of you guys ever heard of 'line boring'? This is a PERFECT time to discuss with the shop manager their REPAIR of the damage done---which is one of two possible ways:
1) Heliarc the damaged areas undersize, and line-bore.
2) Turn Inserts (can be bronze if you wish) and then insert and line-bore.
With a head that has been milled extensively, this is the PERFECT answer to regain cam-to-crank centerline dimension without the use of shims (other than the resultant lash pads...) by using offset bushings in the cam towers.
This is all basic machine work that any competent machine shop should be able to do. But then again, there's that word 'competent'... And I don't know that a guy running beads onto bearing surfaces fits that description. Some time with snap-gauges is in order as mentioned above...but even if they're the correct size---where is all the media? If they didn't take the time to cover the bearing areas, do you think they plugged the oil passages as well? I'd be in for a bristle-brush and solvent cleaning session on that thing like you wouldn't believe!
And I'd still get them to give you a free line boring...
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Well, if they're strong enough to hoist the entire complete car up, place in a container suspended by chains and binders, and then take an ocean voyage across the half the world I would think stationary lifting wouldn't be an issue...
You may want to look at some of my Facebook Album Pages Jochen...the back garden has captive more than one 240Z suspended in the blue and silver containers as discussed!
(and as an experiment we were going to try stacking the cars in a 'u' configuration... having hoisted the first up, then pivoting it so the wheel side was facing the outer wall...but the dimensions weren't right. So yeah, they can be rotated at least 90 degrees with those as the sole lifting points... But as mentioned balance will be tricky.)
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"In the USA"...
Japan has a shocking plethora of 14" tyres available. But none hold that DOT certification, only JIS. The slicks available there in 13 & 14" boggle the mind!
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what I would have done would have been to either give it to him or sell it to him (for cash) without posting it on a public forum for all the world to see, and then vigorously deny an allegation that I had given or sold it to him.
Problem with that is unless the vehicle is out of your name, you're still liable for it.
I know people who did not complete the red 'transfer of liability' (and some who did!) who got nailed for costs relating to accidents when the guy they sold their car to up to TWO YEARS BEFORE because they never transferred the title (and for that matter never got the car registered!)
Yeah, they ignored the registration notices that showed up as 'big government mistakes' or may have given them to the guy saying "they sent this to me by mistake."
Nah, wasn't a mistake. You still own the car until that title has been transferred to the other party, and that transfer has been registered with the state.
Somewhere, someone is listed as titleholder or owner. If it's you, think long and hard about cavalier dismissal of what may happen should your friendly, goodnatured gesture hangs you out by your testicles.
Spoken as someone who saved parts from a trash bin, only to be charge with stealing them. No good deed goes unpunished. Transfer the vehicle properly and legally get it out of your name. VIN transfer without a vehicle is a federal crime. They frown on it in a big way.
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"I was just trying to help not do anything illegal."
Take them to the DMV as a package and tell them the car was destroyed (cut up into parts and scrapped)---I know several people who have done this, it legally removes the VIN from the public record and ceases any and all liability you have for the vehicle.
If they decide they want to charge you for the privilege, leave the parts on the counter and walk away. It's their problem at that point. They are obligated to do the administrative deregistration of the vehicle after being notified of it's status.
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Ive smogged this car btw. Ive smogged this car with the RB and no cat. It definitely passes the early zcar standards.
Sadly, that's the truth for many swaps, and it is all that should matter.
Sadder still is the fact that they are allowed to paint a "moving target" in regards to standards, on a justification of statistical norming-slowly narrowing the "acceptable range" of allowable emissions so that a perfectly clean car one year will eventually not pass in subsequent years to to the moving benchmarks.
How come grading on a Bell Curve is a bad thing, and must be eliminated. But those who benefit from an eliminated Bell Curve in school then decide that a Bell Curve is a GOOD thing when dealing (legislating) with something else???
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The resistance/temperature response curves are identical for IAT, CTS, CHTS in all the L-Series Engine applications (and across Nissan for that matter...)
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Oh, and he used to dip custom bulbs, but due to global warming the glass dyes are no longer available (that actually last)---I've had a set of his "Tequila Sunrise" city lights in my 73 since the mid 90's, headlights look yellow from any angle but dead straight ahead, when they look red... CHP hates them, but darned if they aren't yellow when they get out to look! LOL
Before that, my city lights were green...deep beautiful green. Green enough for Buena Park PD to issue an "Unlawful Headlights" citation which the judge dismissed. And which precipitated the move to Tequila Sunrise...
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Cutting voltage is increasing amperage to give the sane output. More amperes, more heat, more heat, less lifetime.
H4Lights (.com) had some numbers on brightness and lifetime based on incorrect voltage he posted at one time... Lower voltage than design significantly shortens lifetime of the filament, and if halogen it is a direct function of not reaching proper temperatures to initiate halogen recycle deposition or something along those lines.
If you don't want LED's, and don't have the green caps, I think he has a 4w conventional bulb on offer for that application. Drop him a line with that question and what he suggests-he's straight with people about this stuff and can direct your search to so
Solace fruitful if nothing else.
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Perris Auto Speedway was doing it for a while... And only 5 miles from starting line to my front door...almost pushin' distance if it wasn't all uphill!!!
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"PTFE tape was used on the temporary test fittings (gauge and valve fittings)."
Oh yeah, that will leak!
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Back in Michigan I made a nice business out of flipping Porsches from guys who managed to buy them and run them to a major maintenance interval and then got sticker shock and decided to sell the car...
I learned a lot back then (hell, I wasn't even 20!) about people selling the farm to own a prestige automobile. It was hard to believe at some times I had as many as five Porsches floating for people trying to sell them after I wrenched the maintenance for a pittance and picked it up on the back end of the sale.
No CAR is worth mortgaging your lifestyle. Ramen? It's not college---eat Ramen to get through school and get prep and foundation for a prosperous later life (statistically speaking, I guess) But eat Ramen for a CAR? It will only depreciate. You on the other hand get better with age! Put the money in you. Never a car! Incremental spending is how I rationalize car costs. New car? Only bought one. Cash. It was over, and I swear that is the only way I'll ever do it again.
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Actually, any 1954 and newer vehicle is considered a smog controlled vehicle as CA had programs back that far. But let's not turn this into another endless prattle from uninformed in and out-of-staters discussing SMOG.
Ray, what are this guys means? If you sued him in Small Claims Court and garnished his Tax Returns until paid.....you may be better off. Insurance is there for a reason, but there are downfalls to actually using it in some instances. it may be difficult since you are insured for uninsured motorist... Let me ask you, does that guy HAVE A CAR OR CAR INSURANCE (most people never think of this!) but just because he's on a bike doesn't mean he's off the hook for damages to a vehicle in a motor-vehicle accident! Now, considering where you are located...um....aaaaaahhhhh....how can I delicately say this? Was there one of the two most popular reasons in CA for him riding a bicycle? In which case Uninsured "Motorist" Insurance is your only hope in hell of getting some money back to repair the vehicle.
Your receipts for your parts installed are all valid to up the value.
Your time, unfortunately is worthless. They will only value INVOICES. Now, if you had your own business, and were using that vehicle as an advertizing for said business, and you kept a log of your hours spent as record for the tax deductions... well, you would have to get a VERY Friendly CPA to do this after the fact.
PLEASE EVERYONE HEED YET ANOTHER SAD EXAMPLE:
GET YOUR CAR APPRAISED WHEN YOU FINISH MAJOR PORTIONS OF YOUR BUILD! Most appraisers will come and value your car before you start. They will charge you a discounted fee to come back and re-appraise it (after painting, for example)and if you do this at each step it may be as simple as taking good clear photos to add to his file and he can do it for you over the phone or via e-mail.
Having an appraisal BEFORE you have an accident makes this process MUCH easier.
Doing it after the fact is a PITA. It's not impossible, but it is SO MUCH EASIER when the appraisal is done BEFORE an incident. And the better you know the appraiser, the quicker you get your updates.
eBay: APU Powered 280
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I'm normally not a guy to chuck stones at someone's project, but it may bear pointing out something...
The word "rat rod" is currently taking on vernacular for "bit off too much to chew, so because I can't finish it properly, but itmoves..."
The car is shown without the hood, but it's included... I posit the REASON the hood is not shown is because most potential buyers will be scared off by the fact that the exhaust from the turbine exits FORWARD AND UP through where the old radiator used to be... So the hood must have some sort of heat shield to keep the paint from being burned off. Not tomention driving through a continuous 1100F stream of CO-Enrichened airflow being provided to the passengers compartment. I don't know that rolling the windows down in this instance will help much... You guys complain about fumes in an S30...
Methinks someone went for his first ride and realised this last point and decided to sell. He kinda ought mention this in the ad copy. "Need to fab undercar exhaust and patch big hole I cut I put in the original hood."