Tony D

Cutting voltage is increasing amperage to give the sane output. More amperes, more heat, more heat, less lifetime. H4Lights (.com) had some numbers on brightness and lifetime based on incorrect voltage he posted at one time... Lower voltage than design significantly shortens lifetime of the filament, and if halogen it is a direct function of not reaching proper temperatures to initiate halogen recycle deposition or something along those lines. If you don't want LED's, and don't have the green caps, I think he has a 4w conventional bulb on offer for that application. Drop him a line with that question and what he suggests-he's straight with people about this stuff and can direct your search to so Solace fruitful if nothing else.

Perris Auto Speedway was doing it for a while... And only 5 miles from starting line to my front door...almost pushin' distance if it wasn't all uphill!!!

"PTFE tape was used on the temporary test fittings (gauge and valve fittings)." Oh yeah, that will leak!

Back in Michigan I made a nice business out of flipping Porsches from guys who managed to buy them and run them to a major maintenance interval and then got sticker shock and decided to sell the car... I learned a lot back then (hell, I wasn't even 20!) about people selling the farm to own a prestige automobile. It was hard to believe at some times I had as many as five Porsches floating for people trying to sell them after I wrenched the maintenance for a pittance and picked it up on the back end of the sale. No CAR is worth mortgaging your lifestyle. Ramen? It's not college---eat Ramen to get through school and get prep and foundation for a prosperous later life (statistically speaking, I guess) But eat Ramen for a CAR? It will only depreciate. You on the other hand get better with age! Put the money in you. Never a car! Incremental spending is how I rationalize car costs. New car? Only bought one. Cash. It was over, and I swear that is the only way I'll ever do it again.

Actually, any 1954 and newer vehicle is considered a smog controlled vehicle as CA had programs back that far. But let's not turn this into another endless prattle from uninformed in and out-of-staters discussing SMOG. Ray, what are this guys means? If you sued him in Small Claims Court and garnished his Tax Returns until paid.....you may be better off. Insurance is there for a reason, but there are downfalls to actually using it in some instances. it may be difficult since you are insured for uninsured motorist... Let me ask you, does that guy HAVE A CAR OR CAR INSURANCE (most people never think of this!) but just because he's on a bike doesn't mean he's off the hook for damages to a vehicle in a motor-vehicle accident! Now, considering where you are located...um....aaaaaahhhhh....how can I delicately say this? Was there one of the two most popular reasons in CA for him riding a bicycle? In which case Uninsured "Motorist" Insurance is your only hope in hell of getting some money back to repair the vehicle. Your receipts for your parts installed are all valid to up the value. Your time, unfortunately is worthless. They will only value INVOICES. Now, if you had your own business, and were using that vehicle as an advertizing for said business, and you kept a log of your hours spent as record for the tax deductions... well, you would have to get a VERY Friendly CPA to do this after the fact. PLEASE EVERYONE HEED YET ANOTHER SAD EXAMPLE: GET YOUR CAR APPRAISED WHEN YOU FINISH MAJOR PORTIONS OF YOUR BUILD! Most appraisers will come and value your car before you start. They will charge you a discounted fee to come back and re-appraise it (after painting, for example)and if you do this at each step it may be as simple as taking good clear photos to add to his file and he can do it for you over the phone or via e-mail. Having an appraisal BEFORE you have an accident makes this process MUCH easier. Doing it after the fact is a PITA. It's not impossible, but it is SO MUCH EASIER when the appraisal is done BEFORE an incident. And the better you know the appraiser, the quicker you get your updates.

It will only work below 30% throttle opening, and around 3000 rpms. Anything more and you are on pre-programmed fueling curve equating to WOT. Using a Megasquirt with a WBO2 having adjustable narrow-band output to allow correction to 17 or 18:1 AFR during low load conditions would be a bit more reliable and FAR more tuneable than playing around with 2nd Generation Bosch AFC Licensed 70's technology! (Or using more advanced AFR-Target Software for the MS, simply program direct AFR's for the cruise conditions.) Pulling fuel past peak torque is something few people ever do on the L-Engine, but it's what you need to do to get that last little bit of HP, and it doesn't affect EGT much at all. Under low load, it's not uncommon to run at 17, or 18:1 without any issues whatsoever. You can go leaner, but you want to start integrating EGR to the equation for best performance.

Remember the new oxygenated fuels are eating up fuel lines! Same for air... Might be a stretch, may not be!

That is a good observation---my statements were based on checking hardline. That is what I thought was being pressurized, I didn't realize there were hoses involved (especially not rubber-based hoses as opposed to Teflon-lined SS-Braided!) Yes, permeation through the rubber is possible. A N2 check would probably be more accurate. The O2 component of "Air" can permeate through the "holes" in rubber hoses, or in some cases be 'consumed' by the rubber in an Oxygenated/Oxidising process. Once the O2 is passivated through interacting with active components in the system (meaning up to 19% of "Air" can be lost!) the pressure drop should be stopped. It's been this long, you may just want to see where the pressure goes over a week's time, or use some N2 for a check to see if you get the same kind of drop. If you have a welding setup, the Nitrogen or Argon would give similar results. There should be no appreciable migration through diaphragms at these pressures with pure Nitrogen or Argon. It may be possible with air, and a 19% volume drop will result in significant pressure loss over the time the migration occurs. Good to see you found more leaks with the snoop, though! With such small system volume though, any sort of migration or seep can cause a significant drop in pressure. If you get it below 5psi overnight, and it can hold steady through a week of sitting I would say you will not have any fuel leaks. Curiously now, did you use Loctite 567 PST on NPT Threaded fittings or Teflon Tape? If you didn't use anaerobic sealants on threaded connections like NPT,ISO fittings and they are not O-Ring sealed my bet is this would be the last place to find your leaks. They will be very small and will only get worse over time. Teflon Tape sucks, the Anaerobic sealants from Loctite work miracles on pesky threaded joints! Press on!

When I went to fab class back in the 1980's the instructor used an interesting purge method that he'd been using since the 50's to purge gas tanks: He would simply hook a flexible piece of tailpipe tubing to the filler neck, leaving all the other openings open, and the other end went to the nearest car in back lot he could start and idle. After about 30 minutes with gloved hands he would bring the tank in and begin the repair demonstration. I've used it since that time and have never had a backflash in the tank. Have had condensate form in them, but with a quick dump out an orifice the residual heat in the tank's metal would flash off any remaining moisture fairly quickly. And now to think about it, it really is a generally decent inert gas atmosphere I guess...if a TIG or MIG was your goal. But I'd still back-purge properly. The exhaust-purge on tanks was so simple! I'm surprised more don't think about it.

You think it's loud using 12 tons, try a Cameron MSG Impeller wheel about 24" in diameter (or hell, even the smaller C8's in the 8" range) that you heat the wheels to around 500F apply 100 ton press on a backing arbor and just keep heating. Yeah, it makes a "pop like a gunshot"...!!! A little bit of an interference fit there! Yeah to answer your question, they could put them on any way they wanted. I have gotten piston sets back where (no aspersions here, but...) 1,3,5 were pressed onto the pistons correctly, and 2,4,6 were pressed on so the notches would face the 'back' of the engine! At least there I can ascribe it to working on "V" engines, or whatever... It was a logical mistake to make (I guess...) The ones that make you worry are when there's no rhyme or reason to the setup---like they didn't even look at the rods and just pressed the pistons on willy-nilly in a rush. Those places give me the willies. Never know what to trust out of a shop that does that. My favorite places are where I know the guys, and we all come in on the weekend and do the work (which they still get paid for) but I'm there running the press or taking with the guy setting up the boring / honing machine. The labor takes a lot longer, but there usually is liquid discount applied after a couple of quick job runs and we take the rest of the day off. Takes a lot longer to get stuff done, but it's done right. My kid came in the house last visit and said "Dad, do you need blocks hot-tanked? We got this machine were I'm working..."

Bearings which were incorrectly installed or checked (oiling holes in the bearing partially obstructing the oil feed holes in the block, main saddles, etc...) can cause 'high' oil pressure. I would disagree the oil pressure relief valve is designed to be closed. On the contrary - it is designed to be OPEN to REGULATE the oil pressure in the gallery. The oil pump should be designed to overflow the engine with oil by some margin, and the relief valve is the mechanism by which bearing and internal part wear is automatically compensated for over the normal lifetime of the engine. You may have 30psi at idle and 70 at 2400rpms when the engine is new, and oil at operating temperature...but at 275,000 miles you only have 5psi at idle but STILL have 70 at 2400 rpms. Bearing wear has come to the point that at idle speed the entire capacity of the pump is needed to maintain 5psi on the gallery (and the relief valve then is fully closed, as opposed to being incrementally open at hot idle when new), and of course both instances the relief valve is open and bypassing excess flow at 2400 to keep the gallery at 70psi. Another thing that may be happening is that the pump has sufficient volume at idle that even with the relief valve fully open the orifice dunmping excess oil may be insufficient to relieve the pressure and as a result you have 70psi. Generally if this was the case, though, would be that as RPM rose the oil pressure would rise linearly at the same time. Running straight weight 30 in the winter (say 40F) and 40 in the summer (at 80F) returns consistent results. Multi-Vis will skew the 'cold' readings. If you want to diagnose the problem from an Hydraulic Perspective consider running straight weight to see the TRUE difference between 'cold' and 'hot' oil pressures. It reacts in traditional ways when heated. Some synthetics can have inverse viscosity engineered into them, and it can be thicker hot than it is cold making for strange oil pressure readings. I worked for a German Compressor Company who's relief valve system would give expected results when run on mineral oil, but when run with most synthetics it would have low oil pressure when cold, and higher pressure when hot! And when you put a 'stiffer' spring in the relief valve the pressure in the gallery would DROP! After that, they went to a standard specified oil for troubleshooting. Regardless of what the customer had in there, they would insist any oil related issues be diagnosed with the specified oil. Many times the 'standard' oil revealed exactly what was engineered to happen in the oil system, and deviation from the standard oils (synthetics, multi-vis, etc) would result 'at the customer's peril'! In the L-Engine with as much wear as is on most of the bottom ends tested, they may indeed be 'closed' by now, but when new bearings, new pump and new oil is present - even at idle the relief valve will be incrementally opened (the amount is determined by how much oversized the pump was designed to be) to regulate pressure. After idle, the relief valve has additional capacity to dump overboard by opening further to a point when the overboard dump will not allow any more pressure to dump at which point the pressure will again start to rise. We all probably have seen the engine where it shows "no" oil pressure at idle (5psi) 70psi at most midrange speeds, but the occasional zing to 7000 will result in 90-120+psi oil pressure. That is the phenomenon at work. First thing to do is get a real pressure gauge on there with sufficient range to check and go from there.

Most Japanese systems were fully engineered, the non-intercooled single kits were mainly for low-boost add-on to stock EFI systems. Twins generally were intercooled. I don't know of a single Twin-Turbo kit in the 80's in Japan that didn't have an intercooler on it. They weren't putting twins on 3.2L L-Engines to run .8 bar boost...

Outer race should easily be removed via punch, and if not that using a dremel or die-grinder to cut the race to a thin section and then heating it (even with a propane torch, if you get it thin enough)---that will let the thin section turn red hot and easily buckle when hit from behind with a punch (differential/inboard side out.) In some instances using an Oxy-Acetylene you can set the flame just a little bit O2 rich (oxidising) and when that section of the bearing is heated it will literally 'burn away' to nothing. Leaving the bearing halves to fall out if you do it 180 degrees apart...

I would think Swagelock has some distribution near Seabrook TX! Jeebus... It's probably the best stuff for leak checking there is...you may want to consider a higher pressure to 'induce' leaks. The system you have set up should hold several hundred pounds!

Michigan USA...the poor bastard!~

The rods being backwards is a thrust loading thing, as well as how it lubricates as mentioned.

Given the welding to reposition the current iteration of the MSA exhaust to allow a resonator up front, welding in an experimental sidestream leg to knock down the drone may be worthwhile on the experimental side of things. Just takes one to figure out where it needs to go and you can cookie-cutter them into systems like needlepoint...(simply by the numbers!)

Cause it's not got the cool "NISSAN OHC" in it... If we wanted a generic CF Plenum...

Why don't you check back in a couple of... waitaminit, it's been 19 hours...WHAT was the drop overnight? Hell wait for the full 24 hours and check it a day later, it should be within 0.5psig of where it was after that first hour after it all equalized (assuming it's the same temperature and climactic conditions as yesterday at that time!)

It's damp as hell here as well, the papers for the checklists we were using turned to mush out on the factory floor. Even the guys in the New Zealand Forums don't live in Europe where the Turbo Laurel was running around. How does this further his question (which I already answered I think) about which turbo he needs to select?

Alsa Chrome Paint? Absolutely! And as for pressurization, better go read the Monzster Thread before you get any great ambitions about blowing into a plenum box without a diffuser to straighten the flow into the carbs. But yes, you can pressurize FRP or CF Plenums. Check out Kaneko's Orange 240Z!

If I can get to Nissan Shanghai, probably. But I doubt I will have the time this week with the full training schedule. It's a Non-US option, you could work for 40 years on Nissans in the USA and never see one. Japan, Australia, Europe....No big thang. There is where you need to use the parts books from! Like mentioned, Patrol 4x4. Now I must attend to Ms. Zhong...

The reaction bar to lock the lugs is a critical part---2X1 steel tubing would probably be the smallest. I had a piece of 2X4X0.250" wall box tubing from a trailer that I drilled holes for two lugs , and the opposite wall to larger holes for the socket to lock the lug nuts onto it. The biggest problem I've seen is 'spring'---either the bar people use to lock the axle from rotating, or the breaker bar/breaker bar extension has excessive deflection. This saps the effort required to break face-friction and any galvanic action that may have bonded the respective components together. It is not uncommon that there is cold welding on the threads, which can lock them together. The removing of the flats from the early cars is almost mandatory if you want to get the nuts off without buggering the threads terminally. As stated the later cars have Grade-C Locknuts and there really isn't anything you can do other than untorque them with the aid of maybe melted beeswax wicked into the threads or some PB Blaster. The longer the cheater you use to either hold the axle, or put pressure on the breaker bar, the stiffer it has to be or the deflection will sap the energy that should be going into breaking the face friction. Frankly, with a solidly locked axle I've removed these nuts using a 6" STOUT 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 3# machinist's sledge with a few smart whacks. Once it's broken free, it comes right off. As for tightening to 200+, again clearance comes into play again. Usually pushing down will help as you can get your body weight onto it. a 4X torque multiplier makes it child's play...but scant few have a $1600 tool laying around just for their axle nuts! I took my 280Z strut out to do it, and locking the axle was harder than leaving it in the car from my setup. Were I to do it again, I'd use something like an old Rotor Hat with a bar welded onto it clamped in a vice to lock the thing. But that almost requires a 3/4" Impact Wrench to shock it free. Unless you have a HEAVY bench, or have it bolted to the floor! Flipping the bench over is not unheard of.... VW Gland Nuts on Flywheels have poorman's torque multipliers that use the flywheel teeth and an old starter pinion to turn the bolt to final torque. A variant they have that bolts on the lugs to remove the axle end nut. It would be great to have this for our application, unfortunately the nut is on the wrong end of the shaft!

This may sound strange...but if someone was to use that valve cover as a plug, make a fiberglass mold, and then replicate it in FRP it would be considerably cooler than the TWM FRP Box! Lighter as well, allaying the strut issues mentioned earlier in the thread.

As has been said many times before: Because you never saw it, doesn't mean it doesn't exist. The Intake Manifold is in the Microfiche, just need the right one, the guys out in Ceres were selling them for a while...complete engines. Nissan marketed them for Generator Sets as well. The brochure has been posted here before as well. I think Frank 280ZX posted photos of the Laurel Application some looooong time ago.