Tony D

That would do it!

I really can't tell from the photo what is there. I photo from the front left of the car near the headlight bucket, focused and clear showing the distributor,thermostat housing, and throttle body (with flash) would be the best. Another from the side of the throttle body would be helpful, it's all a black mass under there, and I can't see if there is a BCDD on the manifold, or a stepper motor on the bottom of the TB. JDM Engines used EGR. That looks like a Euro Engine with the blockoff plates. That engine should have a vacuum advance pot on a standard, conventional E12-80 HEI distributor. Plumbed as any other vacuum advance mechanism.

The LD28T. It was in Laurels from Europe for certian. Also available in Forklifts and various industrial engines. The Manufacturer that offered it was Nissan.

ARP are re-usable studs, but if you read their instructions, the nuts are expendable. A set of nuts from ARP and some more Lube and you are set for reassembly with repeatable torques and clamping forces intact. The rods have offset in them for thrust under power stroke. Generally this is oriented when you install the pistons on the rods. The pistons have a notch that faces forward, and the rods are installed to be correctly oriented then. I'm at a loss how the rods are backwards but the pistons are the right way if they were installed correctly when paired.

The ECCS was used in JDM saloons. Take the distributor from your old engine and use it. Normally when using a JDM swap, the original EFI and accessories are retained and installed on the donor engine.

The nut is an expendable item, on the early cars cut the flats of the crush section of the locknut. On the later cars they use s grade-c locknut and if you can positively keep the lugs from rotating, a long wrench (4'!) that DOES NOT SPRING will snap it free. A shorter, no flexing breaker bar with a 3# machinists sledge will break it free as well. Use of PB Blaster is very helpful. Replace the nuts, they are still available!

I used the factory Vapor Vent from the tank as my return line, and vented another 1/4 line on the tank to atmosphere out back and that has worked flawlessly since 1985... It runs on the left fender well to the emissions diverted valve. You can hook the stock FPR return directly to it, back to the tank. Don't know how many L28ET's I installed like that!

If it's a Euro engine, then turbo or not, it's got a vacuum canister on the distributor! The Euro Turbos did not use ECCS, they used an E12-80 HEI distributor with vacuum advance / pressure retard. If you got an engine rated in PS and only 150, sound like a Japanese or other import. All engines that were NA had vacuum pots on the Distributor save for some Japanese Market sedan engines with ECCS. All OEM Euro engines had a conventional distributor with vacuum can, rnen the Turbos.

Or one can look at it as "allows maintaining the current ignition advance"...instead of retarding the timing and loosing power without the EGR...

EGR is not "noncombuatible", close tracking if fueling on Federal and CA ECU fueling shows a decreased fueling component when EGR is active in the CA ECU's. While on the face it may be some other force at work, direct substitution of the CA ECU in place of the FED ECU in a Federal Car shows AFR's 0.1-0.2 leaner during the corresponding high EGR (partial throttle, high vacuum) point if operation. When placed in the opposite vehicles, AFR's track identically. This would tend to indicate the CA ECU was somewhat leaned to compensate for SOME fueling capability provided by "noncombuatible" EGR. As someone who made a C10 Chevy Truck run on wood smoke, the thought that combustion byproducts are entirely "spent" is a fallacy. There are fueling properties in there. Conventional teaching says it's "inert" but practical application shows otherwise. Splitting hairs? Maybe. But it's "displacement loss" can be made up by ignition timing for better peak pressure point due to poor fuel, or simply by allowing higher compression on a given fuel without "knock"... The pumping losses mentioned also comes into play counterintuitively as you "take in more" in reality than you did previously so that internal loss being eliminated adds to the output side if the equation as well.

Is the air hot when you put it in the system? PV=nRT if it's even slightly hot or near discharge temperature when put into a low-volume system as it rapidly cools you can loose pressure. Does it stabilise at some point or continue dropping? Put the air in, then not the pressure and walk away for an hour. Note the pressure at 1 hour and again in the morning. If it's truly leaking, there will be a steady drop, to the stasis point... If it's heat it will drop a pound or two, then stay there "forever".

Why are glassfibre doors not a road registered legal swap? The pre 73 doors (and for that matter ALL non-North American Market doors) didn't have a single iota of side intrusion beam in evidence (in fact the factory lightweights had FRP Doors with Perspex in them!) How is changing them to something just as useless, only lighter not worth considering?

Peel off the rubber and take it land speed racing! Nothing left to be affected by centrifugal forces! Seriously, our LSR tires look like the undercording on the inflatable spare... Not a lot of rubber on them. Those spares must be closet high-speed racer economy slicks!

Yes, the fuel cooling aspect has very little to nothing to do on the back end. If you assume static ignition timing the explanation Leon gave becomes easier to understand. As he states on the last paragraph, you can vary EGT by spark timing as well. But just assume everything equal and you can follow the explanation. Leaner fuel mixes burn 'faster' so lean of peak is explained by the combustion being over when the valve opens. Richer mixtures burn 'slower' so rich of peak is explained by combustion still continuing on into the manifold when the valve opens. As you can see, each condition would require DIFFERENT spark timing to get the SAME EGT (and this IS possible) so it gets into almost a three-dimensional chart regarding rich/lean/and spark timing. (Moreso if you are in a vehicle with variable throttle position but this is aircraft....) Once you get to a point where you start misfiring (lean or rich) it can throw the EGT's off depending on where the probe is as ignition in the exhaust manifold can occur and spike temperatures. But basically when you run 'lean' they can spike to a point based on ignition timing (usually too low for burn rate anyway), and then leaner from that point gives Leon's explanation of less fuel input and less possible output.

Someone in this thread has retrofitted a modern Diesel EGR Cooler on his 260Z with functioning EGR and no longer gets spark knock to beat all hell, nor an overheated intake manifold. He can't wait to get the TBI adapters in, and program a megasquirt to control the EGR more precisely. But the car without EGR, and with Round Tops vapor locked so badly on a recent 85 degree day (winter gasoline mix) that it was pushed into it's parking stall... Beware the myths that bleed from the domestic side when applying them to a Datsun. So much stuff interacted on the 73 and 74 cars, it makes it hard to pinpoint what exactly the problem is at the root. But the carbs changed, so they were the culprit. I can tell ya, round tops without EGR vapor locking is not fun. An EGR Cooler does wonders for that early setup! I can't wait to increase orifice size and really lay it in there... Higher Compression? Cheaper Gas? Works for me!

20# is 20#... Personally, my goals were reached by simply running stickier tires and bumping HP 20 through a proper tune and test... Everyone obsesses around Colin Chapman's "Engineer in Lightness" and forget he killed probably more drivers than any other designer. Black Fact of Lotus' success wasn't from designing nimble cars that broke, it was putting in a 400HP bulletproof Ford V8 and then making parts that were possibly heavier, but LASTED the race and didn't get anybody killed. You can do what you can do, but in the end unless you are at the elite level of motorsports, adding HP and working on the nut behind the wheel pays far more dividends than a starvation diet with minimal appreciable gain/return. Keep this in mind to get some perspective on the whole 'big picture'!

I would not inflate it "just to check"... You inflate it, your one day spare is then ruined. Every one of these I have inflated has done this from 75-83... I use them as rollers around the yard. The rims are identical to the standard ones on the car except for the nylon "quick dump" button fitting on the side to quickly dump air out of the tire after use. They were NEVER intended to be used for more than a few miles, much less a month! It reveals why manufacturers don't use a folding tire on full size conventional rim anymore though, doesn't it? Now you get a T-Rated C-80 14 if that!

Bill of Sale, Statement if Fact, lose the mismatched paperwork. It's not a difficult exercise unless someone turns it into one.

If that is what you want to mimic, buy one from the classifieds for cheaper than the materials and labor expended! You know the only advantage of the turbo manifold is the PCV is in the right place, right? As for welding...go to the swap meet and find the guy using Lumiweld to repair beer cans with a propane torch. Stuff is great, and finishes just Luke aluminium. I "made" Euro Balance Tubes using it to plug holes, etc. It's METAL and works great without having to learn to weld. If your painting or chroming the part you will never know it's not base metal. The only difference I noticed was when polished/buffed the Color was slightly more blue than the base Nissan castings. Other than that, it's like it was welded in when in reality it was all done with a Propane or MAPP Gas torch and "brazed

Categorically, Goertz didn't have anything to say/do with the S30 and especially not the OSGTC24B1!!!

L20ET has the same turbo (for all I could tell comparing A/R numbers and Center cartridge) as the LD28T, save for the intake manifold connection, which only matters if you have an LD28T intake manifold (and finding that, I figure you wouldn't be asking about the turbo, soooo...) The hotdogs A/R is 0.48 with what appears to be the same Air Compression side as the L20ET and L28ET.

Adkins diet took close to 100# out of my early 260Z

As a digression, don't let your daughter get into the mindset that the skills in the military will take her through her natural life. All military careers end and you gotta do something on the civilian side. I've seen it far too often in enlisted ranks where disillusioned guys finish "retire" and are kind of shocked they still have to work. 2K monthly probably won't fly in most metro areas... You retire from Unka Sugar, you gonna be workin! Meaning it's not a matter of "if" she takes that ride to civilian life, but "when"! As for getting to the jets...there's a story floating around about one who missed the metro and jumped the ECP to rue the day he did on my watch...

Any turbocharged car pulls an incline in identical fashion... I oft commented the Jatta TDI would be the perfect engine for the majority of US Owners: shift before or at 3K, and when really getting on it, pulling to 5000+ reaching 140KPH (90mph) at the top if 3rd gear... Back in the late 70's we had a Crisco Rabbit, guy ran on filtered fry oil from Mc Donaldson. Big aluminum tank in the back with a heater loop through it-from September to April it never stopped idling to keep the shortening from coagulating in the tank. When he installed his turbo kit it was similar: power and fuel economy went up. It's a different fueling situation than in a gas engine, if you have the air to burn the fuel, it burns... If not it goes out the pipe. Boost on these old mechanicals burns ALL the fuel it was putting in there before anyway, giving more power and your most efficient burn. Crisco Rabbit ran many a mile on that oil...and showed up every Tuesday evening for his free fillip of hot drained vat oil! Hard to beat free!!!

You pay what you pay for new Nissan Parts. Brake Drums came from the Nissan Supply Train at some point. That is their "source" there today. NIB, maybe NOS, but they are in the new format grey Nissan boxes. Same for complete brake booster assemblies. If Nissan has it, they can get it there, they don't obsolete parts inventory like in the USA. You pay the BIG ¥ for TRULY NLA items that can't be found on a parts shelf in some dealers parts shelf in the mountains someplace! Then likely you get something totally handmade, with all costs attached as discussed in this thread.