Tony D

Yes, that car was a replica, the real TKS4150 is either in Zama as you showed, or on Nissan's rotating "Heritage" Display somewhere in Japan. You can go to their homepage in Japan to see the schedule of which cars will be displayed where-and when! The TKS4150 #5 Monte Carlo Car was the one I mentioned photographing. If I could see larger images on this phone I could tell for sure if that was really a true Nissan Prepared car, but from the looks of it I don't think it's more than a lookalike. Not sure the entry this year... I can inquire, but I don't think it's anybody I know!

Btw, a head gasket leak would likely get louder under load or when you opened the throttle making mor cylinder pressure, which is why I mention the cam---it does go away when pressure in the oil system rises!

I had an L26 that sounded like birds chirping at idle. Cam lobes were running dry. When revved up, the chirping stopped. Sludge was in the spraybar restricting flow when at hot idle - faint chirps were heard cold but it wasn't really noticeable until warm. I replaced the spraybar and cam, cleaned everything thoroughly and as far as I know that engine is STILL running today in a red Fairlady Z between Chandler Heights and Luke AFB... that repair was done in 1986!!! I'd agree with checking with aechanical gauge, around 10 is all you will get at hot idle, maybe 15... More than that on a stock engine and you're wasting HP overdriving the oil pump. If bearing wear is the reason, a shim in the spring, or turbo oil pump usually restores good pressure (perhaps at the cost of windage) but a loose engine makes more power and there are more than a few 400,000 mile bottom ends circulating untouched out there. This is usually a sender issue, but that chirp may be a dry can lobe. A head gasket should show on a leakdown or compression check. You are about an hour away using basic diagnostics to nail exactly which it is precisely and then can take appropriate action. Good Luck!

I could dig up the Quadratic Equation with a general stage factor for efficiency to calculate the temperature decrease across the compressor. That 1/4 to 1/2 psi can make little difference in pressure ratio across the compressor at WOT but even a little change like that can mean 20-50F charge temp differential. You will note the Screw/Whipplecharger systems more and more are being packaged with intercoolers. They can make more boost than roots-style. Curious Dan if you tracked your inlet charge temp Chang before and after your change... That would prove most enlightening!

Don't feel bad, until I saw it the first time it never would have occurred to me, either. I found a CNC place that would dupe them for CHEAP per-unit cost out of thick walled tubing and round billet, but I had to buy 200 at a time. Love Mikunis... But not THAT much! Good Luck in your quest, someone should have something.

The car bought in the Barn was the car that placed 4th in 71 monte Carlo, it sits now at a Dutch pig barn. It was more than 10K€ when bought. The owner is on this forum. The 72 monte Carlo winner is in the Yokohama HQ building last year this time, I spent three hours outside the ropes photographing it. It went back to the Zama Museum. That would leave the 70 or 73 entrant as the one you talked with. Not sure what you're asking exactly... Is WHO on the forum.. The guy that bought the 71 4th place finisher out of the barn?

A lathe lets you make them quite handily out of all the 32 & 34's that are laying around...

Happy Festivus, for the rest of us... When are the Airing of Grievances and Feats of Strength scheduled to take place, BTW?

I know that car!

There are those that feed the children with a spoon, there are others that let them cry. They'll figure it out after they realize crying doesn't get them anything. As long as they have to pick the spoon up themselves!

Lawyers can be insulted? I guess mentioning "Pro Bono" might do it...

That is a nice consideration your girlfriend gave to Mr. K. Believe me this is NOT the typical case, he gets all sorts of stuff all the time, and many times sends it back at his own expense. Kudos to her for the consideration and forethought!

KILLER DEAL! It will fit in the Minivan if you can take your back seat out. Though it's better between the axles. I got my Atlas 6" lathe home by removing it from it's stand. Same for the Bridgeport, I knocked down the head down to the base/table so I could lift it off with the gantry at the house!

I know that car...

"Poor radiator airflow control will lead to temperature pulsing within the engine which is not optimal." And WHY would that be, if the thermostat was 'functioning properly' BJ? PERHAPS it would be because btu rejection would exceed btu input and cause warmup/temperature control problems? Should I cut down all the trees so you can see the forest? It is out there, trust me, you just need to see it!

Stock flow diverter valve can be removed and a small K&N filter placed on that vapor recovery line (or left on if you want to buy two K&N's...) In it's original configuration it let pressure built up in the tank relieve to the crankcase (gas fumes to be sucked up and burnt at startup-it was a one-way valve, while driving down the road it would revert to the Air Cleaner to allow for vacuum break action on the tank as the fuel level was lowered from driving. Without it, and with properly sealed tank, you can suck the filler neck down FLAT and eventually get no fuel to the engine due to the high vacuum in the tank from loss of fuel through consumption. If crankcase vacuum is applied to the fuel tank, the valve is broken, or hooked up improperly.

Smithy's will keep their value, they sell used almost for what they sell for used. HF Makes a knockoff of them as well. The milling machine from HF is like anything else they have, you got to disassemble it, clean it, and readjust it all to make it tight and hold tolerance. If you can get it used from someone who already did that for you, you're set. The Smithy's are on sale new for around 2100 for the combination machine. It's a lifetime investment. Really I should have probably bought one of those instead of a fullsize bridgeport and 17X48 Milacron Lathe. Setting up three phase at the house sucks! (Phase Converter!)

"In cold weather the over cooled charge of water would shock the engine." How does it 'overcool' if the thermostat is working? You're digging deeper and deeper BJ...

Another thing to add is you can usually swap switches from year to year within the early-late model groups simply by resoldering the wires for the correct plug onto the switch. This also works when you use LHD Switches in RHD Assemblies (which works wonderfully!)

"The radiator baffles were to keep the exit temps from the radiator closer to engine operating temps." Think about that....just think about what you just admitted BJ. Let me give you a hint: Thermal Input not exceeding Thermal Rejection results in no net temperature rise. But I conceded it's the thermostat and that you're right. I would just hope you would let it drop instead of continuing to give me golden nuggets of your anecdotal wisdom that reinforce my incorrect analysis... And the baffles I mentioned were the THERMOSTATIC BAFFLES on the AIR OUTLET of an AIR COOLED Continental-Lycoming PE150. It was so cold, without ANY airflow through or across the cooling system (save for leaks from the shrouds which can be considered nil) the engine would not warm to a point where ANY flow across the fins was necessary. Thermal Input not exceeding passive radiation losses. Uh, kinda like your big rig radiator story...

I had one I would have given you once I snagged the collet holder and light off of it. It came in a lot of stuff I purchased from a local shop. I wanted the 17X48 Milacron Lathe and Pallet Racks. The Trailer to move it and the Bridgeport J came in for the ride (Won on a sealed $800 bid...a down economy sucks eh?) Actually I thought I was just bidding on the Pallet Racks and Lathe. I left the mill there and never went back. Had I known someone wanted one... Then again, shipping it to NY... If you can find a used Smithy, that is a niiiice little machine! The Smithy Multi Machine

Yes, the power comes in the 'ground' terminal of the headlight connection, and filament 'hot' is grounded through the dimmer switch to the master ground on the column. This is EXACTLY OPPOSITE of how most everybody else does it! The single pin is a common ground (where we have hot) and then they power the respective filament for either high or low beam. Most headlight relay setups swap to that configuration when you install them (which is really what you should do to keep all that amperage from being switched by the contacts directly in that little column switch!) Relays run about 0.5-1.0A, as opposed to 10A and up for direct switching of the headlights. The repair you just did will last a LOT longer if you can swap to relay control of the headlights now, while everything is cleaned, fresh, and working correctly!

Nice edit BJ. I can see this is another exhaust manifold issue for you, cut and dried and no consideration for any other possibility...so you win. It's his thermostat, the one he tested as suggested and found good. It must be magic in that case...

You have the exact same fueling conditions as he does? You can parse it to a single component if you wish... I wouldn't do that.

You have hit on the biggest advantage of the boost bleed. Lower RPMs at higher boost outside the minim flow surge line. You will never get that with "wastegate only control"!