Tony D

I was more getting at the 240 - 260/280 differences. Indeed something changed as later boxes didn't routinely melt like early boxes did. So obviously something changed. But it does look like ground switching is still being accomplished. The probing at headlight socket can prove confusing and misleading to actual circuit function/configuration as normally power is switched. Proper probing of the socket. For instance requires clipping the ground lead into the ground socket to get actual light voltage available. The "dim light" is almost always found with this Method, whereas probing the socket to local chassis ground gives "good power everywhere"... And that ground point may change depending on what position the dimmer is...

In my first post on this thread, I stated that Stonewall won't break things. Recent activities in China have led me to qualify that statement to be "INTERMITTENT and even SUSTAINED Stonewall operation generally won't break things" For the purposes of this discussion the original statement is correct. But blade tears from light wheels, wheels not shot peened and stress relieved, or simply just not robust can be damaged from prolonged, sustained Stonewall operation. In 28 years of doing Centrifugal Compressors, I've seen more blade tears this year in China than the entire prior time. And then, only with one manufacturer... I still haven't seen a stonewall damaged impeller from the first company I worked for, and they don't even worry about Stonewall operation. So there you have it. Nothing changed, but technically if you have a light wheel or impeller blade, the stresses in stonewall can excite a frequency and cause them to fail. But not especially applicable to this discussion.

No. If you have that much oil, your separation system is inadequate, or your engine is shot and you need to rebuild it. Don't assume things on full-race engines are applicable to daily or even semi-used street cars. Even Top Fuel Dragsters run Vac-U-Pans (which is a way to ventilate it and not get any oil mist into the intake, BTW...) Some run small vacuum pumps to insure negative pressure in the crankcase. For them, it's quantifiable horsepower they can see running such a system. Don't be in such a rush to discard or dismiss it's benefits. The biggest being the great reduction for possible leaks from a marginally sealed engine, and contaminant removal from the crankcase.

I think some credit and thanks needs to go to Mr. K as well! At 103 years young, he took some of the limited time he has left on the planet to do this for you. I know some people that would have simply tossed it in the trash and thought nothing of it... Was it return post paid? My bet is likely Mr. K paid to send it back to her, for you! "Thanks Mr. K!"

B.J. I don't know what you're driving at, but: "If radiation losses are more than heat input ... You don't warm up! " This is simple thermodynamics. Please enlighten me as to your exemption from the physical laws so we all may have benefit of it! This is not rare, nor complex. It is very simple. It's so simple, many overlook it. Perhaps you have, living in a perpetually warm climate.

It's Christmas Break.... Semi-Annual Paradigm Reinforcement Time We'll see it again in the Spring. The biggest pressure drop in the whole setup is at the THROTTLE PLATES. Most people mistakenly think that they are boosting 7PSI at the turbo and getting 5PSI in the plenum but NEVER drill and tap the hole before the throttle plate to see that it's 7PSI there as well. You loose more pressure across the opened throttle plate than any piping that is properly (see above, 2.5 or even 2" below 500WHP) sized. It's a toss between I/C and Throttle Plate at WOT for biggest restriction in the system. Below 100% WOT, hands down it's the Throttle Plate! I stand corrected if you guys are running Jenvey Barrel Throttles, but I highly doubt you are...

No, not at all like that, the ERV is a dumb valve meant as emergency relief, not process control! You are very incorrect about your thoughts on heat production and flow. This is extensively discussed, and I'm not going to repeat it. Please refer to the archived section of posts at the top of the board, you will find it there. Surge Explained If a compressor is producing more boost than it's supposed to at one RPM but not another...it's going on and off it's curve. The engine's consumption is linear. The turbos is not unless regulated. If you have creep, your compressor section is oversized the turbine section is undersized, or there is another mismatch somewhere given the design point on the engine. As to this: "I'd rather control boost entirely from the exhaust side. " You are trying to control the boost with the 1960's Era design paradigm... Alas killing dinosaurs is more difficult than it appears. Come into technology from the 1990's at least. As I said, this is all extensively discussed and I've repeated far too much as it is.

I found that firing the engine up with oil on the rusty lobes pretty much clears it up as well...

nice post, are you sure you are correct on the routing of the power though? Battery, Fusibles, Fuseblock, Fuses, Headlight, Switch, Master Ground on the Steering Column is I think correct. This may have changed on later models, to prevent the fuses from burning out like in the early cars...but both my 76 and 77 have had the 'dead light' syndrome from the corroded master ground connection under the combo switch which leads me to think Nissan still was switching the ground side of the filaments and sending fused power to the socket directly from the box. Don't have my diagram to consult, but I'm pretty sure that's it. If someone could post the wiring/schematic and solve the riddle posed, please?

What you want to find (depending on the condition of motor mounts and how much torque you are making) is what is called a "Hump Hose" to replace that straight piece. I've see straight conversions like this pull out on torqueover. They DO make silicone hump hoses, and they perform the exact same function as the accordion pleats in the original boot. You still need a tapered transition, and a coupler pipe, but then the engine can move (and uh...even hit the hood when the engine mount fails...) and the boots just flex and stay attached. With poly captive mounts, or solid mounts of course this is not a factor. As for the "I just just put a plug in your PCV and a breather on the crank case. Problem solved." I would say except for the oil mist mess you create, as well as not really evacuating the crankcase of moisture on short trips, etc etc etc... Retention of some sort of POSITIVE crankcase ventilation is beneficial from many standpoints. The days of the Road Draft Tube are long gone! Unless you like oil haze blowing around your engine bay that is...

Whomever you talked to at MSA is feeding you a line of ignorant bullshite. This is SUPPOSED to be a 'bolt on' part. NO MACHINING REQUIRED. If you call the people they buy the pulley assembly from, they will say as much as well (been there, done that!) Where are you in Wisconsin? I have a VERY tight schedule...but... I'm going to PM you something. Take the time to read it! Maybe I can help.

Mobile version doesn't have edit, either...

I want to address something about the "obviousness" of the problem. Water is not the ONLY method to cool the engine. Oil as well as air contribute to this. An example of this is the Caddy V8 that runs up to 55mph on NO WATER COOLING by simply shutting off one bank of cylinders, and alternating banks. What function does the thermostat play there? I recently rented a Ford Escape, idling in my brothers driveway at 41F with the heater on, no appreciable heat was produced. Putting the car in drive and driving to the end of the block after it had idled for over 25 minutes got the heater pumping out heat like crazy. Be open to the fact that an engine at idle may well not put enough BTU load into the cooling SYSTEMS of the engine that the WATER system may not warm to operational level due to the simple fact that radiation from the block to the air, and from the oil to the air from the pan may be enough to cause this to happen. When Lycoming PE150's were operated at -65F in Alaska their air cooling baffles were completely closed. Our diesels there NEVER got to operational temperature unless under nearly full load. Heat in the jeep cabins was only possible if you covered BOTH sides of the radiator with sheetmetal or cardboard! It is possible. If radiation losses are more than heat input ... You don't warm up!

You can dump excess boost overboard from a mismatched compressor to accomplish this as well...

Spool on piping volume after boost threshold is reached in times reaching 0.0x of seconds. For all intents and purposes it's not worth considering. It's a holdover from 60's systems and improper driving technique...

You can't? Oh crap...

Less than two years ago on the shortening. Last December for the "two for one". Off Smith & Commerce in Corona, or up in Ontario off Guadti. If you want Aluminum or CF, you have to go to the one in Ontario. They are the place that makes the MSA aluminium shafts (at least they were), and you see them in Jegs, Summit, etc: "IEDLS"

Gotta love autocorrect on the iPhone, eh?

Ahhh the wonderful aftermath of the shotgun approach...

"Low Thermal Input"---this is VERY common in Diesel Trucks as well. During the winter they literally have to block the radiator as ANY circulation outside the block itself will result in the engine running stone cold. If you only have the stock gauge it will not look like you aren't up to temperature. But reading a megasquirt datalog or megatune, you see you are exactly 143.7F (or whatever C) and start asking 'why'...

I tried posting photos of what I mean but it was excruciating when the iPhone apparently crashed when posting it. No time to do it again!

Your convinced, change it. Report Results. I don't see it, but it's your car.

Modeling clay doesn't require a freezer or sunny day. And afterwards you can make little horsies and doggies for the shelves around the shop and tell everyone your kid did it... Or so I'm told.

$50 at Inland Empire Driveline Service. Dropped it off on the way into work, picked it up at lunchtime balanced and repainted. Making "one from two" was a little more since they supplied the new Chevy Tranny Yoke as well as a set of new U-Joints, $150 in 3" tubing. If I'd had the tranny yoke i believe it was $35 or $45 less. Basically weld the Datsun end on one end of the new 3" tube, and the Chevy end on the other. Straight steel driveshafts are CHEAP to get made. And quick!

I got a dust cover on mone somehow...