Tony D

Pump to pump is inadvisable, see post #8. The little pickup in the S30 EFI tank is not a proper swirl pot. It helps but is far from being a surge tank by any stretch of the imagination.

This sounds like a misalignment/over tightening of the clamp precipitating a tear of the outer jacket and ultimately, failure of the hose. This was an issue in Fords in the late 70's when they changed hoses. The clamps Ford used on hose retrofits had no screw serrations, and raduised edges. The hose was available so aftermarket shops were doing the update and burning cars left and right from over tightened Ideal-Brand screw clamps that extruded the hose, or cut it along the band edge from insufficient radius. A clear, in-focus photo of the tear would do wonders.

Always "interest" until it comes time to shell out $$$$

Well I was going to say check for corrosion, but that's a new place to poke through for me!

Only one of those looks like a "rough carbide", and two of them look like NC-Ported manifolds. This is nothing new, rough walls have always been the goal over mirror-polished ports. 80-Grit flapper wheel vs rough burrs, vs progressively finer grits.

Put a resistor to tie the fuel temperature low (the resistance is in the FSM)... It's a correction to fueling. Hot fuel, more pulse width, cold fuel less pulsewidth. JWT ties it in the harness mods with a resistor. I don't know why they don't actually USE the fuel temp sensor...not that hard to incorporate.

As I mentioned, most seals can be had with thinner housings, allowing a different positioning. Also specifying a thinner housing width, and a double or triple lip,seal can give not only a different position for the lip to ride upon, it can give you several lips to affect the seal. I can't think of a sleeve I've installed that has burned through. And I Put them in some pretty dirty environments.

Continue tuning the NA Portion. It should be something totally different when under boost...you physically can't tune boost map until you actually have boost. The power valve is the MAP-DOT on the old MS (like a soft squirt) that riches fuel on those little throttle changes that don't activate the pump squirt. I'd turn that down and see how slow roll ons to the throttle respond. Turn it back until is coughs on roll on, that's not enough fuel...go back a few clicks... My bet is you will need the full 35% or higher. I don't know how that works on this system, but if you drop throttle you go to 28-30" vacuum...and even a slight roll on makes that go from 30 past your normal 19 at idle and then on to 15", so you could be activating the power valve when you really shouldn't. Another MS fuel saver is FUEL CUT...turn the injectors OFF under that 30" of vacuum, between 3500 and 2200 rams (or similar to stock range) -- that can really save gas as well.

CA specifically states headlights must be whit, blue-white, or yellow. Then again, they still allow Acetylene Lamps that cast a beam 200' to the front of the vehicle...

Backs and Bottoms interchange, it's the sliders and recliners that determine position.

I will be in Samutprakarn and staying at the Novotel Bang-Na this coming week. There are five Fairlady Z's outside Sipitang Malaysia but are 2+2's. There is a 2+2 FLZ up for sale in SanDiego right now. Are you interested in Coupes only, or are you amicable to 2/2's?

Yes it is.

That sort of setup should net you higher mileage. My stock NA first series Ecu will return 22 on that same trip, in fact cross country. JeffP routinely got high 20's/Low 30's at 70mph cruising. He wasn't happy of it wasn't getting that. He drove that same route and up 395 to Reno all the time and got that kind of return. You have touched all the bases, a key one being below the Ecu switchover point to open loop at 3K. I do not know if this is different between the 87 Turbo and 87 NA, but my Frontier was 3,500 and 80mph... The JWT conversions as I understand it use remapped N/A boxes.... This is only why I mention it. What is your timing compared to stock? 18 seems off a bit. It will make a difference, but incremental...shouldn't be an earth-shattering change. Fuel Pressure and Valve adjustment are related, if you have low vacuum due to tight valves it will change the injection but the O2 has a 10% correction available to get the mix back right. Your second gauge shows that's the case, but the times in open-loop you spend are definitely consuming more fuel than it should be...so it's worth getting right. 12" does seem low for highway cruise by about 3" compared to mine. For a bit of contrast, my Blowthrough Triple Mikuni L28 on 83 Five Speed and 3.36 rear (correct diameter tires) returned 17 mpg in daily commuting duties through the canyon driven as you should drive through a canyon in a fat tired Z-Car. I could get 5mpg at a Track-Day or Auto-X, and generally it was returning 12-15 in town the way I drive. Long trips got maybe 18... It was admittedly rich safe. I would say the average you report of 20 would be OK for mixed driving... But for that LA Vegas Trip, "downhill" it should be better than that.

^^^ This.

Yeah, I thought about that afterwards...having some "teats" cast into the valvecover mounting area would allow a trough add-on for aesthetics. Basically a alternate two-piece valve cover. Then again, machining that out of billet wouldn't be too difficult to do, either...then a quick blast with "Black Magic" at low pressure to simulate a casting....

Idle is about as lean as you want to go. If you try 14.7 it will develop bad habits. The L-Series likes 13.5-14.0 AFR at idle. Cruise is dependent on the parameters. Using EGT on each plug I've routinely gone to 15.5~16.5:1, and some people have said they went as far as 17~18:1 with fast burn chambers and strokers that inherently have more torque and don't need the Tq or Hp at legal cruising speeds. I don't know how it's adjusted or if you can do it on the fly but on a level road or even long slight grade just start turning it back until you get bad behaviour...spark knock, bucking, or lean surge. Go back the other way half or 3/4 a point and that is as lean as you want to go with a light load. Power is as low as you need to go without being able to quantify it empirically... Make a pass, change the AFR, make another pass. In three pulls on the dyno you will know. One BIG thing is watch your accelerator shot function, injection volume and duration time. On Megasquirt, that function can be the difference between 17 mpg and 30 mpg! If it's shooting a little squirt of fuel every time you touch the pedal it drastically impacts the fuel mileage. If you are proper on fueling, you will not need acceleration enrichment unless making a big throttle angle movement, especially at low speeds. As for comparing a modern multiport sequential injected dry manifold system to a sand cast wet manifold system and basing a conclusion on it...well...

^^^^ Where is this information coming from? Redi-Sleeves and SKF Speedi-Sleeves have been around and are industry accepted repair methods. The diameter difference is minuscule as I recall around 0.010"-that's not an issue on most automotive lip seals. Universally they are made from stainless steel, abrading through one or premature wear likely is more a function of the environment it's being used in (VW Sand Rail comes to mind...) than any inherent sleeve issue. Sleeving the snout is far more practical than rechroming and grinding which is the "prior" method.... Short of a wily mechanic getting a half-width seal and overdriving it to put the new seal on undamaged seal journal. Never Forget: Improper PCV operation will cause leaks. "Crankcase pressure variations" won't move any properly installed or even half driven sleeve. <Edit: Rereading this it appears it meant under-driven seals, but as previously mentioned getting a narrower seal and overdriving it slightly gives full diametrical engagement for sealing...if your crankcase pressure is enough to "blow out" a seal driven even only 1/8" into the bore....you got problems FAR more important to address than a shaft seal leak!> I routinely used Speedy-Sleeves on Dekker Pumps at 15+ psi, but had to manually trim the sleeve to half width because the available shaft was not wide enough to install it all the way. They are usually designed to withstand 50 psi and shaft speeds of 1,000 ft/min. The pressure actually improves sealing, as it increases the lip pressure if seal is installed properly. If a sleeve moves, it wasn't the right diameter to begin with. They're not suitable in some applications, but I'm highly suspect of the claims here based on my experiences using them since forever.

^^^^ Actually that wouldn't be hard to implement but might make machining of valves difficult. It would make getting a valve cover a snap as a surplus plate of aluminium could be used, since that trough top would need a 2mm O-Ring groove machined into it to make it leak-free... As you saw earlier in the thread, Derek found the "Blocking" of the head makes for easy machining. That gets you cheaper product as you don't necessarily need NC Machines to block the head and get it set up for advanced machine operations. It shouldn't be difficult to implement acorn nuts on the cover by using threaded studs and nuts in place of the bolts normally used.

Terminator Genesis wastes another one...

They're all over Asia. They are not NPT, they are JIS/Metric

Turbo Suzuki. Spent 16 hours in the Jeepney this week going down into Bicol to visit relatives. Waiting to get the engine's official importation paperwork to register the change with LTO so this behemoth can start making its money back!

I haven't pulled a Datsun intake in a long time! LOL I must be thinking of another with the thermostat gasket integral...maybe the L4, which was my confusion. That side photo corrected the situation perfectly!

You can order alternate oil seals with multiple lips as well as moving the location.

"Did he dieded?" The alclarity of FB must come here for moments like this! LOL

DIY EFI has a distributor-mounted 32-1 or other option to mount in the 82/83CAS to give the sequential ignition control. Kinda shocked it was there. Megasquirt must be in fashion amongst the Datsun crowd! If you don't want the distributor lash, the traditional crank-fire options exist, since the lower cover remains Datsun. On a side note, since hooting children are accusing me in FB of "benchracing" I've ordered my Davies-Craig EWP & Controller and will go into testing here in The Philippines on another project for proof of concept of "a previously discussed option" regarding this head setup. Just benchracing and selling my comic books, making non-contributory sarcastic comments from the side!