Jump to content
HybridZ

Tony D

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    9963

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    74

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Tony D

    Engine temperature tests and results

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Evans Specific Heat rating is (as I recall) somewhere around .81 or thereabouts, pure water is 1.0, 50/50 EG is somewhere around .7, pure EG is lower than that.

     

    KTM is correct, the higher boiling points mean you can run the engine hotter without possibility of spot-boiling and the resultant insulation characteristics of steam (grape ape racing page for better explanation).

     

    Every coolant out there commercially available for home use (lets not get into military exotics...) has worse heat transfer than water. But a significantly higher boiling point. So the tradeoff is you run hotter, but consistently. As opposed to a runaway situation where the engine keeps getting hotter and hotter till you reach system input/rejection equilibrium.

    Need help with an S30 or S130? VIN

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    PS30 00147 is a VIN for a Z432, which should have the DOHC S20 engine.

    The 'undercover' you describe would be the production piece on racing cars in the JDM which helped aerodynamics. I believe it was FRP, but having never seen one myself close up, I can't say. It is not called out as FRP in the parts booklet, so it could be steel.

     

    That would obviously be a very early production vehicle as well.

     

    I have a buttload of parts for that car from my time in Japan. Sadly, the proper engine for that car will run you more than total restoration of the chassis to showroom condition. They are unobtanium.

     

    ZSpec (poster here) may be in a position to resurrect that chassis, as he was looking for an early car, and this one would be 'factory lightweight' by virtue of the VIN.

     

    I say, did it have a spare tire well?

    Norcal Media Blasting

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    For the small stuff, if you have a 5 HP low pressure (125psi) compressor, consider the Harbor Freight Soda Blaster (15# model).

     

    The smaller unit I had first, and it used MORE AIR than the larger one did (odd, huh?)

     

    In any case, with full on blasting my 5 HP Crapbox Devilbis Oil Free compressor cycles on and off and I was going with the valve full on at 45psi. Plenty of rest period for my old compressor. Really surprised me that it would 'catch up' as with siphon guns it pretty much runs continuously.

     

    Anyway, the soda blasting took paint off like nothing. Cleaned rubber, and did not mar the windows in the component I was stripping (pulled a layer of red paint off the inside of an originally mist-blue hatch). I did the small hinges, all sorts of stuff that was laying around and was really impressed. For $129 (not on sale) it worked admirably, and was easy enoguh to clean up afterwards.

     

    Remember, it's the BIG one (15#) -- originally I used the 10#, but returned it on pretense in exchange for the larger unit. I'd bought the 10# machine as it was on sale for something like $70 and clearly read it used more air... but I'm shocked at how much less the larger unit uses. For the physical size difference (nil) don't waste your time on the smaller machine, just get the 15# unit.

     

    I didn't have any great success removing heavy rust with it (hey, I experimented) for that I'm thinking beads or regular abrasive. But the way it stripped paint at only 35-40# was impressive.

     

    Oh, and have a good moisture trap if you are in high humidity area. I can see this clogging with moisture due to the small orifice sizes used...but I did NOT have this issue personally.

     

    A list of small crap I did:

    linkages, hinges, plastic emblems, bumper rubbers, plastic previously painted over, carb body, intake manifold underside and baked on grunge, head of the car with plugs and wires still installed (shhh!)

     

    Everything went back to bare, clean metal, and I could not see any metal deformation at all. Nice looking finish. And like I said, even up to 55# I was not seeing any glass etching at all when directing the flow at windshield or hatch rubber to clean it off.

     

    Cheers!

    240mm flywheel seating on 83 zx auto

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    No prybar needed. I posted photos somewhere of me removing mine using a needle nosed pliers.

     

    Take a propane torch and heat it slightly (hell heat it severely for all that matter....)

     

    Once the adapter gets hot (which will be before the crank snout due to it's mass) it will either FALL off, or you can remove it with gloved hand or a needle nosed pliers.

     

    Caveat about putting in the bushing duly noted, don't forget!

    Fuel Rail Losing PSI when car is turned off

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    PLEASE take your injectors out and have them reverse flushed if this is a turbo application. Even fine particulates can bypass the filter and lodge in the small screens of the injector inlet. This can cause the car to run lean under high load.

     

    I have seen one instance where the fuel filter exploded internally, and the FILTER ELEMENT FIBERS clogged the inlets to the injectors.

     

    Was not a problem till above 3500rpm when the stock ECU went from one pulse mode to another and they couldn't flow any more.

     

    Rusty tanks kill pumps. Keep your fingers crossed.

     

    If you have stock injector hold in scheme, a total new set of big and small injector o-rings costs like $4 at Auto Zone, take em out try to get them reverse flush cleaned, stick some new hoses on them (fuel injection hose only) and put them in with new o-rings. It will give you peace of mind you won't have leak issues down the road from those then!

    Good Luck!

    Urethane engine mounts for L series

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Limit engine movement using a small link from the crossmember to the engine mount on the block...some people use chain, others use a swaybar link and bracket tabs.

     

    By using end links of urethane or stock rubber, you can dictate how you dampen the engine movement.

     

    Chevrolet tranny mounts are close...

     

    But I'd limit engine movement and keep the stock engine mounts.

     

    I ran 265's out back, and could launch under 17psi boost with good hook for years and the end links never let the mounts go away. And ran without those for years before copying the idea from someone else!

     

    Are these new NISSASN mounts you are breaking?

    Scary Clutch Failure!!

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    Yeah, we have to fabricate a scattershield for the land speed car. The plane of rotation of the clutch is NOT 'well forward of the firewall'... Especially if your foot is in it all the way! They will come into the footwell. Norm's photos are proof enough of that fact.

     

    We have a fabricated shield to SCTA specifications, it's 1/4" thick, and if you get some strap steel at least 4" wide and are good with a bending jig and a torch you can make one up pretty nicely. Weld some tabs on it and you're set! Suggestion: Install engine to trans and shield outside car. Once it's in there, it's not coming apart individually!

     

    We also have to run the fuel lines inside a thick pipe or their own individual scatter guard if we were running a fuel tank in the back of the vehicle.

     

    When I was in the military, I had an old beater Sylvia (180SX) that we painted F15 Grey and decaled up like Milspec. including a red 'Plane of Rotation' warning in the appropriate area. I tried to kill that car and couldn't. Sold it off when inspection came due. Bought a 76 Toyota Celica GT Liftback with an 18RG in it. It didn't take 15 minutes of smokin' brodies at the airstrip to kill that car's engine. Hell, that Sylvia corded two sets of tires in one day and never missed a beat!

     

    Oh, yeah: "Drifting is the latest new craze..."

    Garrett GT35-R surge questions.

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    A

    Wouldn't the problem here be one concerning the inability of the engine to take more air due to induction restrictions? Causing the turbo to reach a point where it could not flow more? If the engine's induction system was improved, wouldn't the turbo then be able to flow more thus eliminating the problem?

     

    This is why it surges. Minimum stable flow can not be maintained for the pressure present, and the compressor surges. As more flow is induced, the flow stabilizes and the low flow low speed surge disapears allowing a clean pull to redline.

     

    And could this be related to the wastegate thing? The turbo is working hard to overcome engine flow restrictions resulting in an increase in exhaust manifold pressure as the turbine meets more rotational resistence? Too much pressure and the wastegate is forced open against its spring?

     

    You are getting into slip ratios and other things. I doubt this is the problem, and the mechanics you mention aren't really correct. For this to happen exhaust pressure would have to be stock spring weight (say 10psi) HIGHER than intake pressure at least and then it's iffy. Since he removed the wastegate controller and the stock spring did not experience this issue, it tells me it's not on the exhaust side, it's in the controller and what it's doing to the WG Signal. A .63AR turbine housing is nowhere near that point that early in the rpm range. Matter of fact JeffP tested his exhaust backpressure and noted a maximum of +3psi in the hot manifold under full boost at 7000rpms with his last internally gated tests. They flow a lot better nowadays than they did long ago.

     

    Comments within quotation in bold.

    My official L31DETT RHD thread.

    in L-Series

    Posted

    It is my understanding that large bores on the L6 blocks is best left to those of us that love NA and the turbo boys should limit the bore to 88mm and not go any larger due to the issues 1 Fast Z has found with his turbo 89mm DOHC 3.1 build.

     

    This was known well before this time in Japan...

     

    Actually for mild turbo applications you can bore larger, but the specific output isn't really all that great. When you start pushing 200+HP/Liter, bore wall stability is a good thing.

     

    How thick are the liners on an Oldsmobile DCRE making 1800HP from 7Liters? (Or thereabouts...) This isn't rocket science, you just need to know where to look.

    Computer help with Excel 2007...

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Welcome to the Microsoft Haters Club.

     

    Why it do dat? Only Bill knows.

     

    I don't delete ANYTHING anymore, their craptastic backwards compatibility/incompatibility is legendary. I was going to say save it in the new format and you should be able to reopen it then later. Should.

     

    As usual, Microbloat software never fails to fail. Good Luck.

     

    I would have kept it in 2003, and run it in 2003. As long as I could.

     

    JeffP still runs 98 on his home stuff...

    Turbo Intake Plenum

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    Rolling a cone is a basic sheetmetal fabrication skill. Look to any HVAC Duct Construction layout book, and it should show you the layout for a cone. Stick it in the slip roller and you're done. Easy Peasy!

     

    Basically, you lay out two arcs which scribe through the circumfrence of the circles at the repsective ends, and cut a pie-wedge shape out of sheetmetal with the respective arcs at each end. It's a horrible explanaiton, but when you see it laid out from the text in the HVAC Duct Book, you will see what I mean.

     

    Start on page 2-19 on this link, and it will make more sense. "Frustrum", "Trammel Points", "Bisect".... ahhhh, old trades class, what has it been now, 25 years?

     

    http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/navy/nrtc/14251_ch2.pdf

    Best 240z magazine ever

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    I've been up on that phrase ever since 1973, when in elementary school I foolishly raised my hand (as did everybody in the class) when asked by a gent of Chippewa Heritage if we all 'spoke American'---after which, he continued his little lesson in Chippewa... After a brief interval, he stopped, and laid out what we spoke: English. That this was his country, and his people spoke that way: American. And the furthest he would go would be to acknowledge we spoke "American English"...

    He started the lesson asking who was 'german' or 'french' and doing the same thing to them using those languages, and making the point they were immigrants of french/german descent and now they were AMERICANS, who spoke AMERICAN ENGLISH as 'the standard language of the country' (oh, how I wish that were true these days...)

     

    Since that date, I always wondered when someone said they spoke American, what particular dialect it was, Navajo, Cherokee, Chippewa, Souix, etc... And I never say I speak "American"...

     

    Maybe we all need an infraction! :-D

×
×
  • Create New...