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Tony D

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Posts posted by Tony D

  1. Nobody mentioned the obvious solution to the problem:

     

    Go out and buy another gun, just for this special occasion!

     

    Just bought a shirt for my son (Christmas Time, you know...)

     

    "WWTND"

     

    What Would Ted Nugent Do?

     

    My stock answer is: Kill it, gut it, and fry it up with onions and butter for the evening meal.

     

    When you start answering life's big questions like that, it becomes a whooooole lot simpler!

  2. ZROSSA got it, all you needed to do was get some HTH from a Pool Supply company, and mix acid with it until the PH was near neutral, and then it could be LEGALLY sewered, even in California.

     

    Dumping it raw down the pipes was not... uh... well... I wouldn't have done that.

     

    Neutralization is simple enough. You just turn it into salt water. Basic Highschool Chemistry.

     

    (Get it Basic Chemistry?)

  3. Believe this or don't, but a trouble light under the hood of the car all closed up works wonders for freeze protection! 100 watt is nice, and you can put one on each side of the block. A 150 watt spotlamp will absolutely roast the thing.

     

    Bad thing: rodents are drawn to the warm area. Draw your own conclusions.

     

    Also, they make self-regulating heaters for oil pans that stick to the bottom---meant for air cooled aircraft engines. They also work GREAT for giving you a nice toasty engine on a cold morning.

     

    Me? I live in SoCal, it was 28 degrees the other day sez the wife. A bulb would work for that little dip, no issues. If I ran straight water.

     

    You gotta ask yourself, if you are running uninhibited water why NOT drain it when you leave. It's not like you can't get more. This is one of those "D'OH" moments where you will torture yourself until you see it in person. All you can do is hope for the best. If it's broken, it's just a block. Chances are VERY high you can transfer everything you have inside to another one.

  4. Inflato-Sheep is on the prowl.

     

    In Japan, she was neatly placed atop the pillow each day when I returned back to the room.

     

    I have not deployed the housekeeper torture apparatus here in Johor yet. I should go to the lingere shop at the Holiday Shopping Center and get some small nighty or undergarments for it to leave strewn about as well...

  5. What more people have to look at is Bryan's Quote:

     

    "It also looks like that with 600 ft lbs of torque and 700 plus RWHP, that the cylinder bores are not staying round, even with an extra thick block. I have sonic tested this block to be an average of .125" walls with an 89mm bore. I am now going with an 87mm bore with another extra thick block, to maintain more cylinder wall thickness for my HP and TQ numbers. "

     

    Remember my standard: Electramotive making 1000HP on a max 0.040" L28 Overbore.

     

    Making horsepower means flow and boost, in that order on an L-Series. Leave the big bores to the N/A guys. They are making over 400HP N/A in Japan on 8000+ rpm 3.2L strokers. For N/A and what you're going to get out of it, you can bore away.

     

    For the serious power you can make with the Turbo, keep the meat, leave the bores alone. You will see your HP will not suffer as much as you think, and it will be able to be recovered with more flow/boost.

  6. Alas, I was summarily dropped at an inconvienient hotel, and was not able to follow up on the final purchase.

     

    I likely will need to be back to Japan now on a quarterly basis for the time being, so my hopes are high I will eventually get the 'free time' to follow this up.

     

    As for now, I'm in Malaysia. No cam billets there...

     

    Sorry, I'll check back in a month or so. These things take time.

  7. I have no idea.

     

    You should have just stopped there...

     

    The Cartech Box is just that: A BOX.

     

    This is all extensively covered in MonZter's thread in Fuel Delivery Sub Forum. EXTENSIVELY COVERED.

     

    It's all there, you should search there and find it. SK did NOT 'copy' Cartech's box. And the rest is in the thread mentioned.:icon56:

  8. It's well known the stock washer is unacceptable as it bows.

    JeffP's usage of the Volvo washer (similar thickness as the one photo'd by TimZ) along with the KA Damper bolt (longer for the increased thickness) will keep it from bottoming and securely clamp it.

     

    If you don't like Chris's answer, go get one from ATI.

     

    The design is dictated by the OEM limitations and requirements. More than likely it's inadequate clamping that let yours move (from the stock washer) than from repeated removals. That is only one thought to why it's moving. The washer is critical, and it likely more at fault in your case than any number of removals and reinstallations.

     

    It's only an issue of longevity in two instances: Improper Securing of the unti to the crank, and peroper securing, but with ultra extreme usage (high torque, high revs). If you're not in the 300+ RWHP N/A range, or like Bryan & JeffP/TimZ, chances are it's improper installation.

     

    Welcome to the world of high performance racing parts where you take your parts out the door with no warranty, express or implied...

     

    Like I said, there's always ATI.

  9. QFT. I thought we already had stated we thought the WG must be functional since it worked without a BC on it. I'd try a manual controller before you go to all that trouble, if I were you.

     

    Say it again! People say you need to hear something three times before it sinks in, the logic was placed out there a page or so ago in the same form by me as well. It works fine without the boost controller on it, but starts having problems when the BC is connected.

     

    This is what I talk about when people get stuck convincing themselves it's one component, and are totalling ignoring clear troubleshooting evidence that they HAVE SOLVED THEIR OWN PROBLEM and isolated the cause of the trouble.

     

    You have trouble with BC Connected.

    You have NO trouble with BC Disconnected.

    BC or it's plumbing is the problem.

     

    Anybody remeber proofs in High School Geometry. People who could do them well will follow the above three lines. It's really that simple. Look to the isolated problem now, and forget about the latest and greatest wastegate Phil!:icon55:

  10. Blocking the radiator should work, shunting water on the bypass line (10mm line) to the inlet of the pump may not be enough. You may want to try a temporary larger bypass line to recirculate more water in the block itself (artificial bypass of the radiator).

     

    It is totally possible in colder climates with a good clean radiator that simple radiation from the radiator will reject enough heat to overcool the suction side of the pump. Then, the 'bypass line' around the front (or back, depending on the year) will not supply enough uncooled water to bring the water temperature up to normal operational temperature.

     

    160 IS TOO COLD IN THE WINTER!

     

    You should be running a hot thermostat in the winter, and cold in the summer. Even in SoCal I do that change from 72C during the summer, to 80C during the winter. Helps with the heater output.

     

    If you have a 200F thermostat, run it and see what you have then. It will stay closed and recirculate the bypass line. Really, the bypass line should be larger in colder climates so as the thermostat stays closed, there is sufficient flow for the pump to push at speeds off idle.

     

    If you are talking about not reaching temperature idling, THIS IS POSSIBLE. You have to drive the car and put some LOAD on it to be able to heat it up. Even on cooler days in SoCal I will not even get to 160F idling my car with a four core radiator in it, it will sit there at 155, 157F. It will not get to 160-170 (fully open thermostat) until I take it on the road and give it the first shot of boost! Then it's stable there till I bering it back home and idle it down for cooldown.

  11. The shape of your lenses lead me to believe that they are probably originals, and not reproductions. See the following picture. The OEMs follow the line of the car like yours do, the repros do not.

     

    ZcarParts4Sale001-1.jpg

     

    EXCELLENT COMPARO PHOTO!

     

    I think that one should be given it's own title (How to spot repro headlight covers) and stickied in the body section!

    That is an EXCELLENT visual aid. Really makes the point what is right and what is wrong.

     

    Now I got to do a side-by-side with mine! LOL

  12. "Quicker Response" as opposed to what? A misapplied single?

     

    There is no reason twins are more responsive that a properly sized single.

     

    The largest reason for twins in the past was compressor flow. To get comparable flow and lower spool, you had to have two smaller compressors with relatively large compressor sections. With the advances in wheel design, and materials advancements twins really are superflous. They have to be very well applied, and even then it's likely a wash when you consider potential failure points compared with a proper single.

     

    Really 'quicker response' is a theoretical argument, and then only really proven by using turbocharger tachometers, and sophisticated instrumentation... practical application will show there is no real discernable difference with the current generation of turbochargers. It really is more for novelty these days than any practical application argument.

     

    If a single can give me 17psi boost at 1700 rpms and 21psi by 2000, pull hard to a power peak at 5800rpms (around 350HP) you will be hard pressed to give me a practical example of twins beating that power under the curve. And that was old tech, without a hybrid compressor section. Were I to make that same build today, and actually port the head and use a cam the power point would be even higher. I have learned a lot since I built that one in 1986... using 1983 OEM technology. Today's turbo technology would improve on that response by a considerable margin.

  13. 1991 you say? Hmmmmm... Why was I not informed of this contest?

    I could not compete with birdcage bro, but that first guy that was shown... he had peach fuzz compared to what I was sporting in '91!

     

    Hell, I kinda had hair then as well!

  14. I about died when I saw the tools the Taiwanese and Vietnamese guys were using in the training classes I was giving them:

     

    "KING TONY"

     

    I have yet to find a decently sized set that I can buy to use myself. I GOT to get a set of them, just to keep in the car to show off to the ZCar crowd...

     

    I mean, they were at SEMA this year, and someone who had called "BS" on me couldn't wait to call and tell me that (at 3AM my local time...)

     

    http://www.kingtony.com/idx.asp

  15. So does that mean you can't eat a bucket calf you raise?

     

    I don't call the pet police on my Vietnamese Neighbors, they keep their mouth shut about what I do. We have an arrangement. For some reason they distrust any form of governent as well. I can't imagine why...

     

    You and me are probably some of the few who know what a 'bucket calf' is! LOL

     

    I mean, first time I heard the term 'companion animals' for the old and infirm, and saw that they were giving out dogs and cats, I was sorely disapointed. Anybody who's anybody knows the perfect 'companion animal' for any man is...

    well...

     

    A SHEEP!:shock:

     

    When that stupid law passed (I voted no) my son asked me if we were now breaking the law with our turkeys, named 'Easter,' 'Thanksgiving,' and 'Christmas'...

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