Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Oh yeah, I see the photos NOW...after cleaning, and missing the first chance to see this manifold in person!
Whoodathunk the motel didn't have internet. Telstra mobile, here I come!
(Mc Donald's in Toronto is going to kick me out sooner or later!)
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Well, I accepted the site rules again (not sure what changed) in order to make this most important contribution:
Those photos attributed to me are from Alan T (HS30H).
He actually owns that FIA head shown in the first photo. Lucky bastard!
His photos continually amaze me.
But that FIA head does show what Nissan did to the Non-Crossflow head when put under high stress competition environment. The 'Factory Engineered Solution' as it existed in 1972 (or thereabouts)...
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The only thing I would add is the comment about adding a bicycle speedo for more 'accurate' readings.
Get yourself a speedometer from Autometer, install the pulser unit from the a 240SX into your transmission, and go CALIBRATE the speedometer if you are interested in ACCURATE mileage readings. The pulser and calibrated speedometer is FAR more accurate than a bike speedo, simply because it's a known distance counting the pulses on YOUR gear setup and tire height. Any change of running gear is a 1-mile drive away from being recalibrated once again.
This may be the same/similar as the 'bicycle computer' referred to in the mileage log, but this one fits in your dash like stock and keeps the cops off your butt when you find out your 110kph indicated reading was more like 139kph...
Plus, you get digital odometer and 1/10ths readout as well!
This reminds me of my mileage competiton days in the 70's with my VW! (52.639mpg best ever in our Ghia)
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No load is required, they idle and run just fine the way they are.
If you want a 'motoring dyno' to put a break in load on a freshly built engine, using a hydraulic motor in the 20-40HP range, along with appropriate cooler and relief valves will get you where you want to go, but in that case putting it on the end of a functioning transmission would be easier to couple up, and an Automatic would make the loading transients easier to modulate at any given load point.
The more access you have to military surplus hydraulics you have...the more elaborate you can get...up to and including a 300+HP test stand for motoring and load testing the engine!
But for starting, the bellhousing will work just fine. If you check the HF online and recent mailed catalogs, you will see they offer a engine run-in stand already.....makes mounting your components a no brainer.
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Unless this is a Eurospec Turbo the car (if stock) does NOT have an idle bypass screw.
IF the AAC valve has been updated to the later style with an adjustable orifice you might get some adjustment out of IT, but it's usually set to a minimum opening for stall prevention on drop-throttle, with the Magnet Valves controlled by the ECCS controlling Idle Speed through modulation of the valve open as a bypass around the throttle plate.
If the idle goes up, look for false air bypassing the plate as mentioned.
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The obvious answer was make a pattern and cast some new ones yourself out of Ti! :~P
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I think the running production change conspiracy is a little bit of over-egging the pudding there. If there is enough call for stuff, it will be out there. Think of aftermarket support crap for Z32TT's. Their production numbers are pathetic compared to just about any US Spec Vehicle.
But there was DEMAND for more performance from that little sales demographic.
You don't see a lot of hipo parts for a Chevrolet Chevette. MILLIONS out there, a popular car in it's day, but show me the Coil Over Kits. Other than a Narrow-Angle V6 Kit available for a performance engine swap... there's not a lot out there.
Because the demand was not there.
It's more than production numbers, it's DEMAND for the product and the numbers they can generate. And then you get into 'affordable'---most stuff for the modular engines revolved around supercharger kits in the $4000 range.
Speed costs money, how fast you want to go? "Affordable" changes when Ford offers to finance your power upgrade, and to warrant it...
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Trust me, if I hadn't blown as much money as I did when Frank was here, I WOULD be loading up a container here with an older E-Series Holden Ute and as many Z Parts as I could fit!
As it is, I likely will simply load up a suitcase. But it makes having the loading dock available at the distributor up in Brookvale kind of a waste...
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Read the sticky on surge and what it is in this forum. It sounds like stated earlier, you are experiencing a minimum flow surge condition. If you bled some air off when going WOT, even though you are 'wasting' air, you will likely have less issue with the surging.
When you pussy-foot it, your turbine speed (and therefore flow potential at the compressor side) is lower, meaning less flow, and less pressure.
When you hammer it at lower RPMs, it indeed is possible you are overproducing air for the speed of the engine, so you get boost...but flow across the wheel is insufficient to let stable operation continue.
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I only mention the cash payment. I am assuming Lolita did stop by later that afternoon for the "payment in kind"...
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That sounds like the motor we eventually installed in my friend's Corv-8 back in '79. Originally had a 350, but got a deal on a 'Corvette 350HP 327' from a friendly JY owner who needed a proven good running 350 for a customer who wanted to 'see it run in a car before buying'... I think we gave the engine and $250 for it at the time.
That 327 seemed to scoot FAR better than the truck engine we had, much more revvy and 'nasty sounding'...
All subjective, I'm sure, but for two teenage kids doing CorV-8's in their parent's driveway (where the local Chief of Police comes by and writes down the license number saying 'see you two soon') we were not up on empirical measurements...
I say sell it to someone looking for a Vette with that number sequence. Advertize in Vette-specific publications/venues. Same for the Camaro Intake. Separate them and sell each for the best offer you can get.
I know my old boss paid foolish money for the block with the right numbers to go into his Thunderbolt. Vette people are no different when they want something, save they usually have money to spend! LOL
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I'm already fielding questions from people in my club who found out I was in Australia and want RHD stuff to fill my empty 'goodies suitcase'...
Hell, my trips to Japan are infrequent...but Nagoya is beckoning at this point!
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Expensive? That is why you travel on the company dime, right?!?!
I have not found the prices objectionable. Maybe my company controller will...but I don't! LOL
Got most of the Paperwork Albatross off my neck today, which should free up some time in subsequent weekends.
And I find that on August 21st, Alice Cooper plays the Newcastle Entertainment Centre... so I may have stuff to do afterall!
And I've been informed of a big car show in Sydney on the 23rd...whats a couple of hours driving for a car show? I do it regularly in L.A.
There, it's only 20 miles in 2 hours. I think the reward for the 2 hours of Aussie Driving will be more than the L.A. drive!
Now, if only the customer cooperates and doesn't push for a NOW NOW NOW schedule involving overtime and weekend work...
(Fingers Crossed)
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nice internship snag!
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bead seat covers?
wasnt there a reference to those in MIB?
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here
Beware of things offered up from someone with the name "Cockroach X"
Gotta love that screen name:mrgreen:
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That's HUGE! 5mph! Wow. Bummer on the crank.
I ended up at home running a backhoe for four days to move a wash, then went to Michigan for a week with my wife (no internet to speak of) and then back to LA for 24 hours before shipping to Sydney Australia, so this is the first I have gotten to check anything. SCTA website was next, after HybridZ!
Excellent bump on the record. I can't wait for the photos!
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Yes, someone is, they are doing it. The photos are in the archives.
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The power is in the head, Period. Spend the money on the head and properly getting it flowing. After that, it's just a matter of how hard you want to run it, and how high you want to twist it.
The head makes the power. The rest is simply durability/longevity-based.
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Hell, I ended up selling the Mini-Bike of Death to a blithering idiot for $250 and he let's his kids right the damn thing. Do I feel guilty?
You inflate the price. It was $200...
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Newcastle, you say....
Hmmmmm. Sylvan tells me he's bringing his Surfboard in the van for surfing off Newcastle on the weekend.
I never brought the surfboard to a jobsite. But then again, I don't know how to surf...
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Normally the failure mode is at the U-Joints.
It appears there was a section there which had a 'crack' previously. Hard to tell from the photos, but that would be my intuition. Especially since it looks like you have the 'zerk style' U-Joints, which generally frag-out at the tapped holes for the zerks!
Put it on the "Offerings to the Gods of Speed" Shelf.
Everybody has one.
You should, too.
It has only begun!
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The abomination of the space-saver spare in the S30 Chassis was a US-Only (er.. .North America) arrangement. Everywhere else on the planet, they had the 260Z style tank from mid 73 on to the time the S130 came out.
You want mileage, use a 79ZX Standard Model with a 20 gallon tank, manual steering, five speed retrofit (or that diesel four speed autobox with the .67 overdrive...) and LIGHTER than the 78 280Z it replaced.
And the ZX starts aerodynamically where the S30 stops after adding the G-Nose, Light Covers, Underbelly Pan, etc...
The wieght difference carrys over to the 2+2's as well. If you really got into searching, you could get the 78 280ZX 2+2 Fairlady in the back yard. It's 2+2 weight is close to what a 240 weighs. My 76 Fairlady 2+2 weighed 2695# with me in it (255 at the time) when weighed with a full tank of gas at the San Antonio Dragway some time ago. I haven't had a chance to weigh the GS130 yet...
Really I don't think the weight will make that much of a difference in mileage. But the tank size will dramatically affect range, and the aerodynamics do play a role, even at 70 or 80 mph.
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I've done that before. Sold an RHD Celica GT for an exorbitant sum, to an idiot. Had substantial power, made all the right noises, and got him discharged from the USAF because he simply couldn't keep his foot out of it.
I got it back at a substantial discount...er...like $200 compared to the $2000 I sold it for less than two or three months earlier. I then sold it to another idiot who ran it up a telephone pole guy wire and had it hanging from the front suspension. I believe he exited from it through the hatchback. I ended up getting the intake and carbs, as well as the header off the car before it was crushed.
Does that make me evil? It was like the Devil-Celica. And people who think cars aren't posessed, well...
If someone approached me with $15K for The Blue Turd, you can BET I'm looking for CASH ON THE BARRELHEAD.
Now, the same offer (or 2X that amount) for my 62 Microbus...I'd have to think long and hard about it. The 66 Bus, SOLD! But my 62? I'd have to think REEEEEAL hard...
But eventually, the money offered signifies they are SERIOUS about doing SOMETHING with the car, and that would probably sway me to sell it, knowing it would be cared for in some fashion or another.
Does that make me a car whore? Muahahahaha!
Who Makes the 4 bbl intakes that work on L-6s
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Then again, how much was your sandblasting worth...
I have cash, and the hire car to come to Sydney on a parts acquisition run! LOL