Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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If it warped before, truing it will only let it warp again later.
JeffP went through this with his SFP Tubular Header. We stress relieved it and imparted 0.100" counter stress while heating to put a 'reverse strain' into the metal at the relaxed state. After a couple of hours on the dyno, we ended up pulling things apart, and it was already starting to warp.
There is a stress in the piping that is pulling that flange. Putting in flexible bellows in the appropriate long sections of the tubing, to minimize the tubing expansion stresses imparted to the flange. That is the source of the warpage, not the welding on the flange and tubing joint.
Now that the flange is a different thickness, this likely will reutrn in short order, and unfortunately be worse.
Good Luck!
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I'm with Alan on the "Copied from Nissan Sports Option"...
I have a Fujitsbo which will most decidedly NOT fit on a RHD.
I have a 400 Series Stainless Steel that looks identical to the OS (Green), Trust (Blue), and various Generic JDM headers which all fit both RHD and LHD cars.
I'm not sure what the source of the Stainless Steel Header was originally, I just got it 'cause I saw it on the wall for five years and decided that I was not leaving Japan without possessing it!
The flange stops near the engine/transmission joint more or less, and makes for quick engine changes, and a lot of interchangability. The fittment was easily done with any inlet manifold, and sealing with stock gaskets was perfect. Until recently when the US Manufactured headers came with the proper thick flange like the JDM units have had since day one, I wasn't giving them much of a second look. Now that the flanges are available separately....if it's not Stahl, I'll probably build my own just for the challenge and pride.
I'm stocked for JDM stuff. As Alan said, many manufacturers made them in the JDM, and were usually identifiable by the color the manufacturer used. Fujitsbo had some red headers that actually changed color so you could use it as a tuning aid! Mine does not...
cheers!
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Do I know it fits, or did I know just what MAG has discovered that bore spacing, etc is damn close enough to warrant further investigation.
The question WAS NOT 'know this fits' --- the question responded to was 'how has this head slipped by us all for this long?' or some permutation thereof...
It did most decidedly NOT 'slip by' me for sure. I've chucked the DOHC conversion as too much effort for too little gain (er... if any, I still have yet to see ANY DOHC conversion outperform the properly prepared Non-Crossflow L-Head.)
If someone is saying this engine will make 1200HP in Turbocharged form at less than 9000 rpms, and 30PSI of boost (oh, and last 26hours on the dyno at that level)...
Then I'll be marginally interested for a street car. For the racing class I'm entered into, it's disallowed, so why bother?
That sum up my stance? I'm not threadjacking this, nor am I denigrating any effort made towards this end. I'm just stating why I personally have decided it's not worth the effort in my case.
As an exercise in machining or to say "I did it" is eminently all the justification it needs under any condition. Hell, "Just Because" is good enough for me to do most things. But in this case, I just don't see tangible gains being had above what the good old L-Series has already proven it can do for about $2500 in head work, TOPS!
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That explains the drunken call I got in Bangkok last week...
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clip it, it's saveable...
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Couple of days late... bummer! depending on which way you went, you were very close to my place as well (I15 out of the LA Basin, or I10...pick one!) Unless you went north to Sacto and out 80 across Nebraska...in which case, 'poor bastard'! LOL
Doesn't matter, I was still in Thailand on the 9th. Didn't get home till late the evening of the 10th into LAX...where I got a 350Z for the weekend drive back to my place and to pick up my 260Z at ONT long term parking.
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Reminds me of the final scene in Vanishing Point where they drive the Camaro into the bulldozer roadblock...
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SD33 is not a 4.5 Liter like the E-Bay Advert says...
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They show up regularly on E-Bay for around $200 used...
I have welded up some pretty badly broken up manifolds. Likely any settlement from the shipping company (that is not disallowed for 'improper packaging') will more than cover a welder getting it back in one piece, and a machine shop skimcutting and truing the two manifold surfaces back flat in case the welder didn't jig quite as precisely as he should have...
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HOW did we all miss this?
:icon4:Define 'we all' a bit more clearly there...
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Considering the L26 was originally designed as an EFI design...
It appeared in December 1973 at the Tokyo Auto Salon in the new Fairlady 260 ZE...
The model that never was...
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If it's for a genuine 240ZG, and you can't get hold of the factory part, then there's really only one specialist that can be recommended: Marugen Shokai in Hokkaido, northern Japan.
Here's the page on his website that details the 'Lamp Case' options:
Second Source: Body Shop AY on Route 58 outside Gate 4 Kadena Air Base Okinawa Japan.
They did the auto insurance work on the island for years relating to G-Noses, primarily because they had taken molds off original Nissan Parts and were making replacement bits cheaper than you could at the time buy them new from Nissan. I watched them lay up several buckets during my time loitering about their shop. Their rafters are full of cool stuff, amongst the bits up there are the original plugs in most cases!
It only works if you have a OEM Nissan Nose, though. Otherwise "some massaging required for fitment"
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A rust free 240Z, and a Rust Free 280Z are TWO ENTIRELY different pricing structures, with a 3 to 4X differentiation between them.
Any 73 is worth probably 2X what a similarly conditioned 260 is worth, and 3 to 4X that of a similarly conditioned 280Z.
Market realities are shifting, and the 'good old days' of $500 240Z's are rapidly evaporating. People who have them, know what they have.
Similarly 40 DCOES are worth about half what a similarly conditioned set of 45's are worth.
You are comparing apples and oranges in using a 280Z with 40's as a comparison against a 240Z with 45's...bodywork notwithstanding.
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I would NOT try to do a rushed engine swap to make a cross country trip.
I have done XC trips countless times in Z-Cars (never anything newer than 76)...
The L26 is hard pressed to average UNDER 20mpg, no matter how hard pressed. I did Oglalla NE to Grand Rapids Michigan in 11 hours, and that included 45 minutes stuck at the IL/IN Border near Gary to pay the 30cent toll to leave the state of Illinois...
That leg of the trip got 19mpg.
Driving through Wisconsin on the return trip and keeping it under 65 the whole way through the state, I got near 27mpg.
L26 bone stock with Round Top SU's and a three core radiator running a 160F thermostat.
The 76, with EFI...I got 22mpg. Period. Less in town. Very consistent, but when I knew I was 'flat an long' there was no easy 'lean run' settting to be had.
The difference for a properly maintained car is moot.
I would NOT do a swap and then shake it down on the trip...which is what it sounds like you will be doing if a motor swap is giving you time constraints.
The only thing I would change would be a five speed, the L24 with a 3.36 can get some hellacious gas mileage if you keep the speed down in 5th gear.
As for accomodations...I slept in the Z there and back on two different occasions. It's more comfortable than you think.
Oh, and in ALL trips, NO TRIPLE A PLUS!
Who got confidence in their mechanical skills? Who wants a life of adventure. If it breaks, fix it. If it breaks so hard you need AAA Plus, you skipped something MAJOR that should NEVER have been overlooked IMO!
SOMETHING TO CONSIDER LONG AND HARD:
There is about NOTHING on a 240Z with SU's that just 'goes away' and leaves you stranded or without the ability to 'drive through' what ever you need to get it to a parts place.
The L28ET has SEVERAL electronic components that can DIE and leave you DEAD IN THE WATER, STRANDED.
Just something to consider if you're worried about driving that far...
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Leyner Drill...
Designed for operation by a two-man crew in near total darkness...
I'm tellin' ya!
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We can string up the pigs that ate him on Wall Street...
I sill like the purification through pain approach. Sometimes the tried and true older methods appeal to me. What can I say?
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BTW "Silver State" refers to Nevada. It's 318 between Hiko and Lund.
It harkens back to the Pre-1973 National Speed Limit where Nevada didn't HAVE a speed limit. Many western states were 'safe and prudent'... Most of the time on a clear sunny day you didn't get a second look by Johnnie Law if you weren't cracking triple digits by a significant margin.
Brakes came in handy when you came over a rise, saw a town, and saw there was a municipal speed limit sign posted (and usually a municipal revenue enforcement officer somewhere nearby...)
Can the youngsters even fathom that concept?
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"Click, Chunk, Click...."
I really want to replace my Nugent Collection on 8 Track...but...
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in all of this, have you verified that TDC on the pulley aligns with actual engine TDC?
The L28 Dampeners are known to slip after 30+ years...
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I gotta admit, when the phrase 'air horns' and 'air box' comes up, the LAST thing I think of is the Stock SU's. Then it's 'Air Cleaner Assembly' or there is a reference to removing the air cleaner assembly and substituting Aftermarket SU Tuned Ram Horns or some such nonsense.
Heck, we haven't heard if it's the stock stuff he was running, or aftermarket...
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No spectating at Silver State...
Keep that in mind before you drive up there. Only way to spectate is to operate the radio relay for the safety crew, or participate.
Spa and Nurburgring, on the other hand, have stands. And concessions. And beer after the racing day is over!
Oh, a Waffles too!
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This is the stock airbox backplate? Or Aftermarket backplate / horns?
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Why do you need to 'upgrade the valvetrain' to run to 10K rpms?
The valve train is not what needs to be attended to for that kind of RPM...
Trust me, I know.
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(Best Kelly McGillis)
"So he's the one that shot down the MiG?"
L28 4bbl carb tuning
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Weber does make a jet block assembly that allows Weber Jetting and Emulsion Tube Componenets to be retrofitted to some Holleys...