Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Police Officer: "Your Car, I see (hesitates as he can't believe he's saying the word) underneath!"
No Ticket
Police Officer: "Oh, veeeeery speedy, no can clock! You have tail light out, you fix, O.K.?"
No Ticket
Police Officer (along with 20 other personnel with M16's pointed at me):
"So that little display back there, that was you? What do you think this is, the Indy 500?"
Wrong Response: "No, they go counterclockwise (make motions with my finger to explain it) I was going clockwise!"
Escorted to station, got ticket. License Suspended 6 months because of 2 tickets in 90 days. Previous ticket was for (no lie) 15mph in a 12mph zone.
(To be honest, the Z didn't get me the tickets, those were the "No Ticket Stories"---the car that got my license pulled was a 2L DOHC 76 Toyota Celica GT Liftback with an 18RG-R from a 73 GSS Corolla in it ... 145HP @ 6800 rpms)
That Toyota was devil-posessed. I got my license pulled in it. I sold it to a guy that ended up getting kicked out of the service for antics he did while driving it. It compelled you to do stupid sh*t! His antic was better than my 5 minute smoking donut show in a vacant parking lot... He took off in a street race from a light where the cops were the first vehcile in the line stopped in crosstraffic. They had started in pursiut, but 'He was gone'... Till moronicus pulled a U-Turn at the next light and started dragging back in the other direction!
Provost Marshalls took their van and jumped the center median to get him.
Anybody stationed on Okinawa will know the main gate at Butler at 58 and the light at 330 bypass---just before the Naval Hospital, that's where he did his U-Turn... D'OH!
I haven't owned a Toyota Since. My wife, btw, hated that car. Seems like every time she drove it something broke and left her stranded. But the Fairlady was rock solid reliable ("Honey, how fast is 180KPH?" WHY? "Oh, the Z just seems to get quiet and like running at that speed...")
I blame it on demonic posession, Kijimunna...
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Did I give the wrong Coordinates?
Crap! Standby...
33 48.946N
117 14.351W
The fields near Hong Kong and Macau I was in were at 22 42.388N x 113 38.987E
METHINKS: Ye entered "E" when ye shoulda entered "W"...
Which would, strangely enough, land you nearby the area you mentioned. I was staying at 31 12.274N x 121 23.899E (Grand Mercure Hongqiao) earlier last month!
I've been out for close to 2 months, and if I could get finished here at 10 44.352N x 106 56.904E and head back to Muddy Murphy's in Singapore for a couple of days before one more week. Just one more week, and then it's homebound, and 16.5 hours on a plane to sleep sleep sleep!
But use "W" not "E"... I'm still puzzled why I got two different numbers for the same spot, though...
Look again. It's there. It's better than the rice fields! LOL
It's obvious what goes on there, too! G-Tech Testing. LOL
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I am not the Piston Ring Antichrist. Association with me will not cause you to blow head gaskets and sink your rings and cost you tons of money.
I am not the Piston Ring Antichrist. Association with me will not cause you to blow head gaskets and sink your rings and cost you tons of money.
I am not the Piston Ring Antichrist. Association with me will not cause you to blow head gaskets and sink your rings and cost you tons of money.
I am not the Piston Ring Antichrist. Association with me will not cause you to blow head gaskets and sink your rings and cost you tons of money.
I am not the Piston Ring Antichrist. Association with me will not cause you to blow head gaskets and sink your rings and cost you tons of money.
I am not the Piston Ring Antichrist. Association with me will not cause you to blow head gaskets and sink your rings and cost you tons of money.
I am not the Piston Ring Antichrist. Association with me will not cause you to blow head gaskets and sink your rings and cost you tons of money.
I am not the Piston Ring Antichrist. Association with me will not cause you to blow head gaskets and sink your rings and cost you tons of money.
I am not the Piston Ring Antichrist. Association with me will not cause you to blow head gaskets and sink your rings and cost you tons of money.
I am not the Piston Ring Antichrist. Association with me will not cause you to blow head gaskets and sink your rings and cost you tons of money.
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That's what I was thinking. Still a valid question; what is the max power stock pistons will take before failure assuming no detonation?... Maybe I will have to find out myself.
Like stated, Bernard, Big Phil, KTM, JeffP... Of the bunch, I think JeffP was making 460 or 470HP on a stock bottom end. He had the ported and cammed head, but the block and pistons were stockers.
Detonation happened, test ended. On that one, head gasket let go. It was on a trip to my house that the rings got sunk...
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That guy in NC is high as a kite! If he want's that much, how much should I ask for my NOS, never been on the car, ZERO MILE E88 that I got in my above mentioned previous post?
One billion dollars!?!?!?!?
The Craigslist Ad was apparently kosher, BTW. Head was sold. Even if it was only a run of the mill NEW head...that's not a darned bad starting point for a NEW never corroded L-Head I guess...
I would have paid $850 for a NEW head unseen, before I paid $1000 for a Used 60K mile head with no cam towers!
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I've see that before. A 383 dynoed at 244 to the rear wheels, it took another year or so playing with G-Tech and WBO2 to get everything dialed in and making 300+ to the rears.It's more than bolting it all together, unfortunately. Torque is probably pretty good, but to get anywhere near that HP, you will need to do some fine tuning.Disapointing, I know, but it's the way it is...
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Old School Assymetrical Grind?
Symetrical Grinds were the originals. The Assymetric was added many years down the road when people like Racer Brown did testing on valvetrain dynamics to find that opening and closing ramps contributed greatly to stability when altered from 'straight'...
That's the thing about engineering, when you understand the theory behind things, you find that there really isn't much that is truly 'new', it's ALL been around for ALONG time, it's just inadequate command of the knowledge base (or consulting one in the wrong field) that is to blame for holdbacks and myths.
If the design of the engine hasn't changed, and the original engineering was sound...there is little likelyhood that unless something truly 'new' has come around that the Old Method is going to give you any less power or be less effective than a new method.
In otherwords, Old School when done and engineered correctly, is the ultimate, and nothing 'new' is likely to improve it.
Metallurgy is about the only thing that has advanced since the engine was designed, cam profiling from 1970 is likely just as efficient as anything today.
Note Sunbelt had 'assymetric grinds'---most grinders did, they were the 'new grinds' compared to most aftermarket stuff that was symmetric---and copied originally from a BMW Cam Profile from what I understand.
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It's basic machining, there's nothing complicated about it. Punch the bores. Stick an LD in there. You get 2.9l SAME as with an L28 having an LD.
I was just curious where the information came for such a definitive statement that the "L24 doesn't have the meat to bore to the stock L28 Displacement"
Not if you are using an L24 crank maybe, but you stated you already had an L28 Crank.
Cheapest thing to do would be boring to, and using stock L28 Pistons. Oversize L28 pistons if the sonic checking reveals a sound unshifted core casting.
If it cuts through in a couple of spots...then it's liner time with standard size L28 Liners I guess.
There is nothing complicated about this.
But I'm still curious as to who says it can't be done because of boring limitations to stock L28 bore size...
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You realize that the valve at the back of the J-Pipe is your boost control device, right?
Failing having an external wastegate, the old systems like this would simply dump boost. If the thing is leaking, you get a terrible hissing noise...
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I used to own one of these. Suzuki SC100GX
great little runner.
That looks slightly bigger than my Cervo/Fronte---I think that is a later model with a bigger engine than the 74 and later 77 that I had. The Cervo was rear engined 550cc two stroke powered. When I sold that one (after boring it out to 660ccs and running a Weber 48IDA for carburetion!) I bought a brand new 1984 Alto, sold that two years later for more than I bought it for (dollarwise, thanks to the rising yen) and bought an 86 Alto Superturbo.
Xander, you've seen me...can you imagine me in the car you had? How about one that was smaller?
Really, any of the older Kei Cars from Japan would be ideal, and they are available ex-japan with LHD and anywhere from 800 to 1300cc small watercooled engines. Some of them are quite sporty!
This is a later model than my Superturbo, but it looked similar. Mine had the (er...) decal and spoiler package. Hey, it had a Supercharger, AND a turbocharger, AND DOHC engine, AND would rev like crazy. I had it concurrently with the Fairlady Z!
Nobody mentioned Hillman Imp yet, have they?
YES, they do HYBRIDIZE IMPS!!! Guess what's wedged under the wrong end of the car???
Sad thing was there was a BMW700 in the junkyard fairly complete earlier this year, during MSA. Frank freaked when he saw it...
We put a VW 1835 into a Fiat 850 when I lived back in Michigan...woo hoo!
Technically, the Fronte I had was a Two Seater, and the Cervo of later years was a 2+2. Why the insistence of four seats?
Is this for classification of 'production class' for some sort of racing?
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The perfect G-Tech Testing Location:
Google Earth...
33 48.957'N
117 14.377'W
Flat, roadway is at least 2M below grade on both sides so no wind messing with you.
Behind a sound wall to the east, and a railroad grade to the west.
No other openings to roadway except on either end as seen from the ariel view, both visible from the....well look closely and you will know where both ends are visible from!
Using the ruler tool, you can figure the rest out.
And you pass a gas station that has 100 octane at the pump getting there!
WOO HOO!
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Absolutamente, amigo! El Boro perfecto, mas bustamondo bien, compadre! VIVA!
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Can you whistle like a parrot after that 'errach'? I always liked the whistle better than the loud noise...LOL
I figured it was a straight conversion error, just forgot it was inches, not metric.
JPL missed mars under similar circumstances, you know!
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I'd need to see photos and casting numbers to confirm the FIA head. Other than that...it is likely just a NOS bare casting.
The LY and FIA heads for the 6 Cylinder were produced, neither of which was legal for competition in the USA, and neither of which was listed in the N/Comp Catalogs at the timeframe he is mentioning. All they had were E31's, E88's.
ABOUT that time, Nissan Comp was clearancing a lot of stuff, and there was a rash of bare E88 heads that went out the door. I have one of those, they are the 'early' E88 with the smaller chamber used on 240's, not the 'late' E88 used in the 260's.
For a working head as a base, it's a nice starting point. But do you really need a pristine new head to work from? Depends on how much you're planning on making. The new casting would be nice to port up and rework as there is no corrosion. But the head for serious work is just raw material, for big gains it's going to be welded, etc. And if you do it to one....you can do it to any of the others!
It is new...though!
There was a guy in the same area selling some L16 heads---IRON. ALL IRON. Made for interesting prospects when you consider what some studs, O-Rings, and that short stroke would be capable of under boost. And worries about overheating the alloy head? GONE!
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There are commercial extractant powders that work by rubbing them into the concrete. They were marketed in the early 90's by some eco-friendly outfit our corporate material management people said we were to use. Of all the crap they sold, this one thing was really neat. Little white flakes like laundry deteregent...pour it on the floor, rub it in with a brush and damned if it didn't get dirty and the floor get lighter and lighter as the oil was extracted somehow.
Damned if I can remember the name of the outfit now... Electra somethingorother...
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Would you believe that the return line was clogged in the fuel sending unit. After seeing the 100psi on the return side i know I missed something. I have had that same fuel sending unit out probably 3 times and you can see by the pic that it looks brand new. You will also see where I cut the return line to get at the obstruction. I cannot tell you exactly what it was, but I am betting it was somekind of muddgobber from a bug who built a nest in there. I couldn't get at with a piece of wire because it was in the curve of the pipe, so I just cut it off. The passage was completely blocked off, I don't know how the car ran this long
I would, I have seen the EXACT same thing in my Fairlady Z, and about half a dozen other cars that have sit idle for a time, and then were put back into service. On my Fairlady, I had replaced EVERY bit of fuel hose EXCEPT for the return line back at the tank (one, because I ran out of it) under the assumption 'Hey, it'sa return line, how much pressure can be in it?'
Fired it up, revved a couple of times to keep it running because it was running a bit rich, then it cleared up all of a sudden. Confident it was just something from 'sitting around so long' I let it idle. Idling I could smell a raw gas smell, REALLY strong. Couldn't see anything, but MAN it was strong. Figured better go to the shed to grab a jack to look underneath, even though I couldn't see anything on the dirt under the car. As I went behind the car, I was REALLY strong gas, and I thought I heard a faint 'HSSSSSSSSS'
Looked up under the tank, and there was a stream of High Pressure Gasoline streaming to the ground. Looked under further---yep, the return line! The ONLY one I didn't change. Had pulled it and blown down it with compressed air, same as you... but the plug was in the tank return line.
Curiously, my sons' 510 wagon had this in the return and the feed lines. WE had filled the car and run it to 3/4 tank with some 100 octane throwoff gas we had after the season ended, figuring it would sit and it was better to use the gas there than in the lawn mower...
Months go by, and we go to try a restart...no go. No gas, no return line. We KNOW it was clear when we put the SSS carbs on it. Drop the tank, and all the sludge from the old gas had been solvented loose by the goo 100 octane stuff and it's vapors, and then clogged BOTH lines.
Worked the stuff out with the standard coat-hangar and vice grip method.
With the tank drained, it was off to an undetermined location whereby hot sudsy high pressure water was applied to flush out any remnants of the evil varnish gas residue and clingy stuff on the tank insides...
Frank 280ZX had a similar issue with his 280ZX®. We had replaced the fuel pickup like shown in the photo as the car was parked with a full tank of gas, and then was let to evaporate over 14 years+ in storage. New pickup and it ran great. But going down the road something was happening. Damnable thing. But it ran at idle and freerev fine. And as long as there wasn't a big load on the car, it would go on like nothing was amiss.
The fresh gas in the tank had solvented the brown goo and it sloughed down to cover the pickup transfer holes in the baffles arouud the swirl pot. Get on it, and the fuel flow was sucking the in-tank swirl pot dry! Another case of 'Take it to the Dutch Cleaners' for an inexpensive fix... Tank looked like new inside once cleaned out! Same as the 510.
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(ObiWan Kenobi Erethereal Voice)
"Trust your instruments madkaw..."
The FSM give guidance on the steps to take if loop test fails, and component test does not. CLEAR guidance.
If multiple failures are occurring, look for something like a .22 calibre hole through the wiring harness, or a spot where a PO buttspliced the entire harness back together.
Don't laugh, BOTH of these are reasons I found for cars either not running, or that would NOT get rid of a persistent miss and kept failing smog.
For the .22, the car had to be parked with the hood open, the inspection lid up, and the gun pointed down at almost a 60 degree angle to have a bullet go through the top edge of the resistor pack, then punch through the firewall and go through the EFI harness, and end up on the floor.
"No wonder it wouldn't run"
FYI that harness was repaired and has run in two LeMons events thus far!
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The L24 doesn't have the meat to be overbored to match the stock L28 displacement, not to mention past that.
Who says?
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Alas, not a single shot under the hood...<:^(
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Deglazing (not technically honing where you abrade the surface to a set final diameter and finish...) is almost infinite. The key is lightly breaking the glase on the cylinder walls. There is leeway, measure before the operation starts with a GOOD dial bore gauge and inside mic for all particulars (taper, out of round, etc)...
It is not uncommon for racers to use the "ball flex-hone" on the cylinders several times before going to the expense of honing to the next oversize, or boring outright to something much bigger.
Re-ring operation calls for deglazing.
Finishing the bores after boring is honing.
It's like "Freeze Plugs" for others on here. It's a bugaboo in terminology misapplication that takes on more significance with the new machinery available that literally can hone in 0.010 and 0.020" increments where previously you would have to bore & hone to go that oversize. Now just stick it in the Sunnen Machine and hone with coarse abrasives to X diameter, then switch stones to final diameter and finish!
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I thought that's what I just did...
When I put it on the in-ground Clayton Dyno up in LaHabra the dyno operator saw 'turbo' on it, and figured 'lag beast' so he ran it up to 60mph in 3rd gear, and then loaded it. (3.36 Rear Gear, 265-50/14 Rear Tyres, 84 Skyline FS5C71B Tranny)
Boost came HARD. Clutch went up in smoke. Dyno operator tried another loading, but it was gone...clutch that is.
Guy was all apologetic 'I never saw a turbo that came on that hard before! Sorry about your clutch, get it fixed and you can come back well run it again for free.'
At 50mph I would turn 2000 rpms, and being able to just lay on the throttle and scoot past traffic got addictive. When I lunched that last turbo and made the mistake of 'upgrading' to the statesize .63 A/R turbine, the feeling I had gotten used to was gone...
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Try one out. For $100, it’s not much of a gamble. I’ve had mine in my Z for 6 years and 20,000 miles, and I’ve done track days and probably 200 drag runs and it’s holding up fine so far. If it crapped out tomorrow, I’d gladly shell out another $100 for a replacement. Everyone that I’ve come across who’s tried one has been happy with the results.
Nigel
That's not a lot of driving for that lifetime. Most cars in CA with Daily Driven "Cheapo Cats" are dead within that mileage, or shortly thereafter.
Then again, are you actually monitoring your emissions, or is it 'smell predicated'?
In CA, the days of the reasonably priced Catalyst Replacement are over now, due to the terrible overall performance of the 'universal replacement catalysts' --- now you must have a California Certified Catalyst put onto a vehicle. Or prove it was installed before the cutoff date (they do check). It made sense to me, as OEM's have to make 100K mile catalysts, and give a 10yr warranty, but aftermarket vendors had no criterion governing manufacture of the product.
Anybody considering placing a catalyst on their vehicle should take a long an hard look at the exhaust gas O2 content, along with HC and CO. A five gas analysis on a rolling road will give you good information.
All I'm saying is make SURE the car is running correctly BEFORE slapping a cat up under it. That it's got decent AFR's and proper O2 content out the tailpipe. Converters were designed around specific HC and CO percentages (3% MAX CO comes to mind)...Too much HC and that thing glows cherry red, and your floor starts smoking if not outright bursting into smouldering nylon flames! (ask me how I know this...)
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This comment scares me Tony as I am getting ready to do the Haltech conversion on my big $$$ L30 motor...
Talk to JeffP about his decision after two sets of pistons/rings...
Steve Web was the guy who said it to me back in Albequerque (1995?): My engine here is a 160,000 stock hydraulic liftered junkyard motor we put in two days ago after I blew my good motor.
If you are considering doing this, buy the bolt-ons, and get your EFI dialed in first before building a good motor! This thing is making 425 (shows me the dyno slip dated a day earlier) to the rear wheels, and I drove it here from Texas. It's making almost as much as my expensive bottom end.
Jeff was up making MORE HP with the stock L28ET bottom end that he previously made when his car was in ZCar Magazine! 450+HP on the stock bottom end.
For testing and proving chassis, this is enough. It only has to hold together till you get it nailed. If it goes boom...you're out a couple hundred.
Your big engine gets a lean spot under boost on the dyno while tuning and goes boom, how much will that cost?
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Wow, I was going to be helpful, but with the attitude, I can pass. I see this headed somewhere...
I just wonder where the L28 crank came from...
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That's what I was thinking. Still a valid question; what is the max power stock pistons will take before failure assuming no detonation?... Maybe I will have to find out myself. 
spammer in my PM box
in Site Support
Posted
Why on earth did DK get the tranny offers...
This might explain Wax 'not accepting PMs at this time'!