Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Bummer, tooo late for the stock late 260/280 bolts. I just fit a set of 90 Supra seats to it, and those seats are 12LX17W square on the mounting bolts...
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Remember the L4's have similar passages in their manifolds for coolant evacuation from each pair of cylinders.
Same as the LY head, and the L-6 FIA head!
Nissan put what they thought would be best for a low-horsepower street application. For serious performance work, there ARE (were) other alternatives that were far more suited to the specific application.
Doing my own investigation into the old early 80's turbo projects of some of the bigger Nissan Teams has uncovered many little tidbits they did to keep it all together.
Let's all remember they did it when it was new, and didn't have 30 years to get it right! When I think of the electronics (or lack thereof!) they had used to make the numbers they did, my hat is off to them!
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I'd agree with Bryan on the clearances as well. Slightly bigger is better than too tight.
FYI, I bought a full set of Nissan Guides, and they ALL need to be reamed to size, and they are cast iron (or some magnetic material)...
Good to hear you are getting it fixed. I fired up the Red Car and was doing blasts up and down the street today. And I found out my kid has dumped all my MS Tables and Megatune from my old laptop (to free up space..a whole 15MB!)... Now, I have no idea what Version MS-N-Se I got, options, or whatever. Looks like I got to download my USB driver from somewhere becasue he deleted that as well and the computer doesn't recognise it any longer. Download new firmware and reset everything to the numbers written on the cardboard box top I found under the seat.
Let us know when you get it on the dyno!
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I'd really be interested to see ANY objective evidence on looping being beneficial.
I don't see confusion, save for the people looking to loop.
Those who don't loop, aren't confused!
pffft!
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It would be nice to somehow be able to limit first and second to 15 psi and then 25+ psi 3rd gear on. Any suggestions for this?
Some transmissions have a 'Third Gear Switch' for the emissions system on the original application. Once activated it remains closed (working in conjuunction with a vehicle speed switch signifying 45mph or something like that). Usually an EGR component.
Utilizing that switch or combination of switches as the 'input' for a 'high boost setting' on the boost control mechanisim would be relatively straightforward.
Then again, a simple two-stage boost controller with a fingertip switch for low and high boost on the shifter would probably be just as easy and more failsafe.
That is the plan for the Bonneville Car, no high boost until the switch is flipped, above 75-90 mph. Before then, the tires will just spin, regardless of the gear... but that roughly equates to the top of second gear in the car with the tall tires or short tires...
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What power numbers do you want? That would be a good start instead of working backwards.
You are going to get a lot more HP from the boost than you are from the 1 point bump in compression...including before 'boost threshold' when improved breathing will net more gains than a higher static compression ratio.
What are the uses for the engine, and ultimate horsepower goal. People blow stuff up on at STOCK ZXT Boost Levels through timing and fueling errors despite massive modifications to 'combat heat' (or whatever) at supposedly much higher boost levels.
If the subsystems aren't tuned correctly, the basic motor needs to be conservatively built in order to withstand the abuses while someone learns the tuning curve or subsystem dynamic.
After all that, you can start playing with static compression ratios, but likely it's easier once you're tuned to simply add more boost and fuel. More productive, cheaper, and ultimately doesn't do anything to compromize longevity across the board like a higher compression ratio would. 8.0 is a good number, 7.5 is even better.
Boost doesn't blow engines, detonation does. Period.
If something went boom with intercooling, methanol, and an 8:1 CR, something is wrong. ADDING compression is the LAST thing you want to do at this point!
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The thought of 'the heater core allows flow' is incorrect.
The heater core is BLOCKED! That is the purpose of the heater control valve.
If the heater control valve is opened, allowing flow, the water is COOLED before reintroduction to the water pump suction port.
I can't tell you how many OEM Radiatored 240Z's I have 'fixed from overheating' in So Cal simply by cutting that damnable looped hose, and installing two spark plugs and some hose clamps!
Looping the hose is not recommended, and not proper. Period. It's blocked when not in use, just like (for SoCal at least) 95% of the time you are driving around without the heater on.
By the time you need a heater, loss of cooling capacity due to inadequately cooled recirculated water is not an issue. Matter of fact, anybody notice the engine warms up slightly quicker when you turn on the heater, but don't turn the fan on 'high'?
That kind of tells you something right there...
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I agree with Dr. Hunt, Cast Iron Guides last hundreds of thousands of miles.
Silicon Bronze, Brass, and thin walled inserts...er...notsomuch!
I replied at 'the other site' in a more vociferous manner on the painting of the opposite corners. Sounds like the guy is looking to drum up business and prey upon you more than being straight.
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What, did I inadvertently stir a pot...
he he he he he!
Who? ME?
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"I can see what motivates people here to cruise without a destination."
I've done that since I could drive. Living in SoCal has nothing to do with that urge.
As for this:
Can motorcycle riders "split" lanes and ride between other vehicles?
Lane splitting by motorcycles is permissible but must be done in a safe and prudent manner.
Anybody else remember when the speed limit was 'Safe and Prudent'? There were many states out west where this was the case prior to the national speed limit in 1973. Even after that change, it took some time for State Troopers to bother with you unless you cracked Triple Digits. I remember driving with my dad (no seatbelts) in his Plymouth Fury going around 100mph across the desert on a trip from an educators conference. And gas was 5$ a tank...with change given by the attendant that topped fluids, checked yer blades, battery, and anything else they think they could find a problem with and sell you for an outrageous middle-of-nowhere price!
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I was just reviewing the records and saw the DCWaterjet record...thought, man it's about that time of the year again!
Good Luck Gary! I'm on Furlough near that time, maybe I'll take a Southwest FF trip to SLC for a couple of days. Better go check the salt report at the SCTA website...
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Cut the plenum, invert the piece you cut out placing it back into the hole you made, and have it rewelded back into place so it clears the clutch cylinder.
Same sort of thing happens at the front of the Greddy RB25 manifold with angle of the front when you use the VQ45 Throttle Body, you just cut it, weld it where it needs to be, and then polish the manifold. If you grind the welds smooth, then polish it, it will look like the manifold came that way. Clear Anonodize it, and the upkeep will be minimal.
I'd leave the clutch where it's at, the manifold seems far easier to modify.
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The 225 should not cause a problem IF the return line is free and unrestricted. I have resurrected SEVERAL cars from the dead in conditions like you show there.
Get a pressure gauge on the header and see where it is...I'd place it in a "T" on the RETURN line. You shouldn't have more than 2-4 psi there. If you have more, it MAY be from swarf in the line, or the higher volume pump. If you have a larger container with a fairly airtight way to route the FPR/Return line to it at the engine, you can disconnect the line to the back of the car and let it flow into THAT for a while and check if it runs better without getting a pressure gauge. HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY!
Blow through the return line, it should be free and unrestricted. If not, take the hose off at the back by the tank and blow forward, likely it will be free, if it's not fix that first....but DO NOT reconnect the fuel line.
Hook up a line to the return fitting on the tank and blow into IT as well. I have had FOUR cars clog there, INSIDE the tank. The FIRST elbow inside the tank seems susceptible to clogging by junk that washes down the return line from storage.
I take a brazing rod, or coathangar that I put a little 'jig' in the end to make it like a sewer snake. I cut the tip with a side cutting wire pliers so it has a diamond-shaped end for cutting into the clog. Then I mark the inches on the wire, clamp a vice grips onto it tightly, and then take a hard mallet and whack the wire in 1/2" at a time till its past the first bend inside the tank. Do it a couple of times to knock it out good and give a good flow. The gas returning will likely wash whatever's left back into the tank over time. Once I've opened them up this way, I've not had it return.
My bet is with it sitting in or near Mexicali long enough to get like that first photo, it's in the exact same state most of my cars get when I pull them home about 2 hours north of the border! For some reason they like to plug there after having the lines open. I think the Leaf-Cutter Beatles make nests down inside. The pressure washed them to the elbow where it plugs up. That's what it was on the last tank I did---on my son's 510 Wagon. It only sat with the return line open for 6 months in the back, and those little bastard beetles put a nest inside there, that I didn't see when reconnecting the line...I dug it out of the tank with the same technique of coathangar, vice grips, and mallet!
Good Luck!
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khoyos, you have mail!
Hmmm, O.C. huh? the plot thickens!
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Why do people buy a 370Z and then put a complete turbo kit on it? (You guys did notice there was a 370 MODIFIED class at MSA this year, what...a couple of months after introduction?)
Asking why someone bought the best car they could to start a project with smacks of something... No different than someone buying a new car then doing similar workovers...IMO
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Wyoming Has Antelope scattered on the roadside all across the state...
Nebraska has Carhenge, but only when you enter from SD, after you hit 80 and start heading east...
I guess that makes it close, but I gotta go with Antelope, already seen Carhenge, the antelopes are everywhere, and keep you on your toes. Corn does NOT threaten to jump out in front of you at any moment and thrash your car or kill you! Call me an adventure seeker! I gotta go with Da Lope!
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Do what I did with my last fixit ticket: Sign the officers spot with an unintelligible scribble, put 'HBPD #XXX' in the 'badge number' section, and turn it in to pay your fine.
I didn't "Fix" any-damn-thing because nothing was damn broken! I look at it as an 'equipment annoyance tax' that you pay from time-to-time when you have the front windows tinted...
Double Limo Tint suprisingly gets not much of a second look most of the time. But if they do, my routine is clear. I usually pay in person at the courthouse on the way back from the citation site so I don't get involved back home...
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Any sport where there is a rule officially called "Blood Reversal" is a MAN's sport.
I was lost to American Football save for the Black-and-Blue League after personally witnessing my first professional Match in Wigan in 2005...
It was how our football once was... and as it should be!
Er... GO ALL-BLACKS! (I know, I know...) LOL
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Ditto, both those are on my corporate laptop from the corporate office. Run the AVG scan regularly!
I don't go to a lot of places that should infect me. But if you have a porn proclivity...
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I love the rationale: The crank is worth $400, so an additional 300# of scrap iron therefore is worth slightly more than $1 per pound!
Riiiiiiiiiiiight!
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Oh hell yes! Check out Summit Racing. I think they are in there. As far as I know they are still available directly from Redline-Weber in Compton or wherever they are now...
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Daeron pegged my intent exactly. I'm not upset or showing animosity. I'd seen the head in the past, and played around. But it never rated more than an 'emph...if I had the time this might be interesting' kind of thought. Especially since for the money spent, you can get the same HP out of the non-crossflow head. My driving point is the non-crossflow head is good for operation at 9000+ rpms, and the horsepower availabe at that level is pretty good as mentioned. So I've always needed a quantification of improvement over the L-Head. Sure, the TC24B-1 O.S. Giken Head is a nice whiz-bang underhood goody for a show...but I'd like a performance bump to make the $$$ outlay worthwhile.
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The bellows are similar. Mercedes 280SEL has a nice example on their manifold from what Jeff tells me.
They pull away from the head at the ends 1/6 just like yours is doing. Same as the SFP tubular header. There is a lot of metal to expand and put a stress on it, and the longer a straight run you have, the more expansion in a given plane you will have. Add to that they are outside the 'bundle' of the tubes in the center, so they cool faster than the center (follow where this is heading?) so the expansion is the most on the longer straight runs, where that expansion can push harder against whatever it's pushing against. Then when shut down, the center stays hot because all the close mass, while the outer two cool faster, and pull back. Make sense?
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The flow is not so much in the diameter of the runner, but the way the air makes the bend to flow through the valve opening. Bowl work pays FAR more benefit than simply using the largest port available.
Using the L28 intake may help because it's roughly around 3mm diametrically larger, but that flow difference would need an engine running up far beyond where you would run a cast-piston L20ET normally.
Using an Early Dual Carb L20A Camshaft in the L20ET would give you a power delivery curve with a torque peak around 4500 rpm, and a power peak closer to 6300 and which would rev freely like the early 240's Fairlady Z's to around 7K---the practical limit for the cast pistons anyway.
It makes for a very nice street turbo setup that way!
As for an N/A L20A... You may want to check out this link:
Is this what you were going for? It's what I went for when building an L20A...
So I'm definitely NOT in the 'chuck it' crowd...
Sticking a Turbo on THAT one would net some impressive power numbers I posit. We just need to put flat-tops in for a lower compression ratio...and go after G/BGALT records...
swastica SU covers
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Yeah, change "Swastika" to "Iron Cross" and you're spot-on.