Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Methinks Daeron needs to not go metric, and change back to the english system, and then his assertation of what 1FZ was saying would be correct.
Most people run 0.040", 1FZ is running his head to crown clearance closer to 0.020"
Which is 1mm, and .5mm
.5mm is closer to 0.020", 0.20mm is closer to 0.008"
It's the scourge of the metric parrot! ERRRRACH! Wrong conversion factor! ERRRRRACH!
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Fair Enough, this is definately a personal choice to make.
For me, I'd turbo the car with a .48 A/R turbine (like I had on my 73!)
Full 17psi available at 1700 rpms...
Can't be much more torquier than that! But this is 'dark side technology', not mentioned thusfar... LOL
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I am looking for the N42 to support that dream, but another turbo block - even flat tops, would be fine. Know anybody local?
You and Priddy can strip to the waist and fight for a knife I throw out into the back yard, the victor can have an N42 from the hoard... LOL
Not really. I would not give up my N42's. But if you guys want to Gladiator-Style it for leads, that's fine with me!
Jeff is in the same situation as you now, and has followed the 'Just boost a stocker till you get the EFI nailed'--you know his results. He bought that engine for less than the damn PISTONS on his stroker! He now is an N42 Vampire, stalking the SoCal junkyards for early cars to snipe their blocks!
Yeah, find some 87mm Z22 Pistons with the low pin height that puts em aroudn 1.2 mm down the bore... 2898cc with the LD Crank or something like that.
In Japan the econo-mod was running Honda XL500 pistons, with L14 or another L-Rod. Depending on the rod, you either had 1.5 mm negative deck height, or 1.5mm positive deck height. At the time the XL pistons from a Honda Japan dealer were around 1500 yen ($15 when the yen went to crap, it was cheaper by half before it went from 268 to 131...then 117...now 81 to the $, I digress!) INCLUDING rings and pin with spirolocks.
I have a writeup someplace at the house. When I get back from this trip, I have to buy another container and make a damn library at the house so I can access this stuff when I need it. I just can't bear to buy a 20 footer when I know I can get a 40 footer for only $300 more...
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Paeco has been doing performance work on just about anything for... well, I got their first catalog in 1984 or 86 if that tells you anything...
They did a bud's Toyota 2TG head when nobody else would touch it!
They also do the cam journals and lobes in Paecolloy as well, with lifetime warranty on journal damage. Welding and offset grinding is as old as someone wanting to make a cheater engine....LOL
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Yes, the debate over the 3.5" got heated... I "cherry picked my facts", LOL
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Many times the fume problem is caused by people running a tailpipe that is TOO SHORT relative to the OEM fittment.
If you don't have that tailpipe in the right portion of the airstream (see aero forum) the gasses boil up around the back of the car and jus sit there. With a window open, you create a vacuum in the car, and just draw fumes in like crazy. Have a short enough pipe, and they can acually be brought in through the drain plugs in the spare tire well, radio antenna drain tube, etc...
If the chassis was originally designed with a Catalyst in mind (proper floor clearances and heat shielding) there is nothing wrong with putting one on there, jsut realize most of the aftermarket stuff is worth what you pay for it---which isn't much. It's not uncommon for these to be dead after working a year.
Plus, three-way catalysts usually require additional air be provided (it's why new GM's have Air Pumps again...) The catalysts on the earlier cars were not three way.
I'd look where your tailpipe exits. I've solved more 'fume problems' by simply putting a chrome tailpipe extension onto the car.
Also, realize if your getting a 5% CO reading (threshold point where just about everybody finds it objectionable to smell the exhaust fumes), likely you have ANOTHER problem with your fueling. Putting a catalyst on it is merely masking the real issue. These cars should really be just as clean without a catalyst as with one. The Federal and CA specs for 76 aren't that different. One with Catalyst, one without. It's there for times when you are out of the closed loop situation (WOT, Over 80mph, Over 3500 rpms) and the engine is making full rich power, and needs scrubbing of the exhaust. Other times, you are in closed-loop at 14.7:1 simply to keep enough HC and O2 in the exhaust to keep the converter operating. Really, you can clean up the car at cruise to 83 California Catalyzed Levels (save for NOx...it will be high...) by leaning the mix out to the point of impinging on lean misfire. The EFI (or SU's for that matter) will run EXTREMELY clean on HC and CO at that point. My 73 with SU's and AIR injection passed the tailpipe test to 83 Catalyzed standards when tested!
Remember they have to keep the catalyst hot to work on transients, so for that to happen Stochiometric gives enough O2 and HC to keep it hot and ready to roll. Emissions of HC and CO will drop on the lean side of Stoich under cruise, NOx will rise. Someone has a chart to post, I'm sure...
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I've dataloged the boost curve with the wastegate actuator source on the manifold and the turbo and there are obvious boost spikes with the source on the manifold because of the delay in the signal getting to the actuator.
Quantify the spikes. A lof of that will depend on the type of plenum volume you have, flow of the compressor in an efficiency island, actuator type, and boost controller. Spikes are not detrimental unless they are uncontrolable or too large that the fueling system can not accomodate them. Yes, you will come on-boost harder, and MAY overshoot your set boost setting minimally. With a controller that controls based on rate-of-change in boost, this is easily controlled to be a non-issue. Most spikes are under 2psi, if that.
How does a vacuum signal OPEN the actuator? And why do you want to SLOW the turbo on lift-shifts?The actuator generally works with spring pressure against pressure to OPEN. If you apply vacuum to a pressure side of the manifold it CLOSES (I just realized I may have mis-typed it, I meant to say vacuum CLOSES the actuator for better on-throttle response. Which I think is what you are getting at is a 'good thing' Nigel? Porting the turbo discharge will not do this, your wastegate stays open and you lazily come back on-boost. When you go to vacuum, that wastegate bypass closes TIGHT letting all energy go through the turbine, keeping lift-throttle turbine speeds up for rapid response. Coupled with a properly designed Compressor Bypass Valve, response can be quickened. Some electronic boost controllers will do similar things, dual ported actuators can also be used in this manner.
Something isn't adding up here...I mistyped one word.
Sorry, I'm 7000 miles from home, haven't been there for a month, and the idiots at Garuda called me at 2AM two nights running and have totally screwed my sleep schedule back up, so if I'm a little off, forgive me. It should have been obvious that vacuum would close the actuator, and do what I mentioned. I was concurrently thinking about the BOV slowing the turbo if it wasn't set right, and the thoughts crossed at somewheres around midnight... It's an hour earlier now, and I'm thinking better... -
I'd not touch it and run it the way it is.
Someone was running without air cleaners...
Typical FOD ingesting pattern on the leading edge of the wheel. Won't hurt to clean the wheels with solvent, but I'd shy away from removing metal and altering balance on the nose of the wheel. If they weren't vibrating, don't look for trouble by removing metal...
If it was an F15C and you were worried about something falling out of the sky in combat, I'd agree blending them to prevent stress cracks and pitching blades would be appropriate. But on this aluminum wheel....run it!
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JeffP is running GT35® I believe, and gets full boots at 3400rpms like clockwork. He will get 2-3psi at off-idle when going WOT, and becase of his porting and cam, the car pulls like a much larger displacement N/A engine below boost threshold, and since the cam comes on 'above' boost threshold, it REALLY starts pulling around 4500 (peak torque?).
He doesn't seem to get much over 17-18 psi, and has run it at 20psi, but with no great effects. I may be out-of-date with his latest testing after installing the stock L28ET bottom end for some testing compared with the Stroker, but these numbers should be good for that application as well from what I gathered talking with him.
One of his previous builds had a turbo that would get boost a 3K rpms, and the car would go from 150 to 450HP in like 500 rpms. At first he didn't like the 'soft aspect' of how the GT35R came on, but he's learned that it makes for much more useable horsepower, and if he wants spunky tricks, he just cruises in 4th...
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I get the boy to use Tide.
It works like mad to degrease the floor, and rinses clean.
Learned that trick working at McDonalds. You wanna talk about a GREASY floor?
When we took over a distributor in Milpitas, the floor was unsealed concrete looked TERRIBLE and the resident 'technicians' wouldn't clean it because 'It was a machine shop before, and you can't get the oil out of the floor, it weeps every time the humidity comes up.' It was a dull sheen that would get humidity droplets on it like the floor was 'weeping water' from the slab, but it was just that the surface was oil-sealed and the water just beaded up. Got slippery as hell, and that was unacceptable.
One weekend, with nothing to do (need a life?) I set upon the thing with a couple boxes of Tide Detergent and a mop/brush. Swabbed it and let it sit. Worked it in with a brush. Added more. After about a day of sitting there and working it, I hosed it all into the bay...
Guess what? White Concrete Floor. Epoxy coated that next weekend!
Powdered or Liquid (Concentrated)Laundry Soap is really good if you can get it on, wet, and let it soak. DON'T let it dry out, keep it wet, and move it around every once and a while. Drinking beer during this time makes for good entertainment...
Once it's sealed, then you can use a lot less detergent, and they rinse clean and clear 'squeaky clean'.
Were I to do it again, I'd swab more, let it sit, and then go at it with a Zero-Degree Pressure Washer Nozzle, or a Steam Jenny rather than scrubbing with a broom.
That's why I paint/seal my concrete! Cleanup is a snap.
Curiously, the weekend after I painted the floor, the alarm went off at 3AM on a Saturday evening (Sunday AM) and the boss called me to go check it out since he was in Chicago, and I was in the Holiday Inn two exits down... Got there to find one of our techs tweaking like crazy, and had removed EVERY tool from his service body truck, laid them on the freshly painted floor in rows (I WISH I could have taken a photo!) and he was methodically wiping them all down and muttering to himself over and over about how he 'didn't have time during the week and my tools needed to be cleaned' Ahhh, O.K. My lack of a life suddenly didn't seem so bad. "Bob, Chris is out in the shop cleaning his tools..."
The reply: "Uh...O.K. just stay there till he's done, and make sure it's locked up when he leaves. Oh, and get his key from him!"
Thanks, Bob! If I'd never cleaned and painted the floor...
A clean floor does invite that kind of thing, you know! LOL
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List of things to avoid
-Ice Tea and coffee
-Lots of dairy products
-Spinach
-Chocolate
-Peanuts
Oh crap, and I have this pain...
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There are 3.36 LSD's out there...in European Turbos. Euro Z31 Turbos specifically.
The S130 Turbo came with an R200 but it wasn't LSD.
There's the source for the ring gears you wanted...now go get 'em!
It will neither be cheap, fast, nor easy so....
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I can’t seem to find the picture of the coupling itself, (buried somewhere on my hard drive), but it essentially is a pair motorcycle sprockets, one on the back of one engine and the other sprocket on the front of the other engine, and a double row chain around them as the coupling. Looks simple and functional.
Likely a Dodge or Browing Chain Coupling. They can handle torque and speed when they get bigger...
http://www.emerson-ept.com/eptroot/public/prod/standcoupl/chain.htm
Sorry, couldn't get the Dodge photo to show up...
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I thought of this, but then you'd get all the pressure drop from the IC tubing and intercooler (perhaps a couple psi below compressor pressure). Plus, when the throttle body is closed between shifts, you're not getting the "surge pressure" before my recirculation valve opens (not that that should be an issue)
Maybe, but you can plumb that separately.
Whe on-boost, there is a drop...but all that does is hold your wastegate closed tighter longer till manifold pressure builds to the pressure the wastegate is set to lift. In practical application, the boost comes on harder like this, and modulates pretty well on partial lift-throttle (at least in my experience.)
What you DO get though is a VACUUM signal to your wastegate actuator which opens it WIDE AND QUICK slowing the turbo on lift-shift.
Never thought about that one, didja?
Mine is in the manifold plenum...
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Then I'm full of crap on that one John. I did the conversion on Jeff Ellis' 1978 Fairlady Z in 1987 before he shipped the car to Florida. Last I heard he was working for an airline down there.
I could put that car in second gear and simply lay on the throttle and P195 60-14's would break free and boil. No clutch kicking to spin a donut, and it was all-in at 5500 rpms. The car was very drivable when short-shifted. Sometimes you can tailor a vehicle to a persons driving style, and while it may not be 'the ultimate setup in your mind' --- for the customer they LOVE IT!
There are several 'satisfied customers' with similar setups simply because L28 Manifolds used in sedans didn't fit well under the Z Hoods, or line up as needed, so I did several conversions like this. The engines were torquey at the bottom end, moreso than the big runner engines. But over 3500 and to redline the bigger runnered engines pulled harder.
Jeff sent me a letter and was very happy once he returned to the USA. The ability to lug the engine at 45mph in fifth gear made for nice mileage and overall he was very impressed with the results. And it still went 120+, so for him that was all that mattered.
Sometimes people need to put aside their predetermined thoughts on what is 'acceptable performance' and realize people want what they want, and if it's not what YOU want, then you have to live with it. This is probably one of those situations, John...
Feel Free to look up Jeff Ellis, maybe you can get his take on the car.
On the same subject, slipping links on the timing chain is a horrible way to kill the top end power, but it does similar things to moving the powerband around. Did that, too. Some guys loved it because they grew up with Hydraulic Liftered V8's that floated the valves at 4500 rpms and shifted religiously at WOT at no more than 4000 rpms. "Getting on it" for them involved a WOT run to 3500 and upshifting on the way to work most of the times.
I've said it before elsewhere: For about 85% of the people posting on these forums, you could substitute a Diesel Jetta engine into their Z-Car and they would NEVER know the difference. They take being shifted at 3K very well, and you can run them to 5K at 140KPH in 3rd gear for a hoot. Hell, I videoed it last time I had one in Spain!
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Loadings in compression are not that big a deal.
If you hit something with the road wheel hard enough to damage the frame, you've bent the TC rod into a "U" anyway.
I have a 240Z that is 3/8" shorter on the left side than the right. Door gap is less than 0.020" front and back---had just the situation I mention above---hit HARD and compressed the frame backwards. The whole car flexed because that section of the frame rail is so stout!
The Firewall flexed so far the back of the throttle linkage for the SU's popped out!
I've got them on my 73, but when they go together again, they will have a real ball-socket type arrangement like VA engineering makes, or something with a heim joint on it (is that what Techno Toys sells?).
Really deflecting the bushings isn't the most precise way to do it, and it can screw with the spring rate of the wheel drooping. A ball or heim let's it pivot freely and doesn't affect suspension movement. Just my .02
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The big question is did you pull the pan for an inspection BEFORE you put the engine in the car.
It's totally possible the skirts were broken like that when you installed it, and nothing you did contributed to it at all.
I have run across several Turbo engines where that was the case...
They will run quite well with no skirts. I think Bernard was doing 11's in his car with all six broken off and laying in the pan bottom!
But he's off a bit. LOL
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I wouldn't say 400 HP is the limit of the platform, but for a stock head gasket and bottom end it likely is pretty much the upper limit for durability of any sort.
I mean, if you think about what you have... You could buy another junkyard engine for $450, put it in and run it.
Cheap.
When it happens again, repeat.
Somewhere down the line, you will either have plenty of cores to build the thing the right way after getting your tuning rock solid tuned correctly, or plenty of prospective wine racks when you swap to a V8...
Either way, for the current price of L28ET's I'd get another and go on a-boostin!
Maybe put the feelers out for anybody getting rid of L28ET stock pistons and rods as a set for a 'rotating exchange' sort of setup between two engine blocks...
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I could sell John C the Mill, and you could send it to him to do it right then!
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You will be sorely disapointed with a 'stroker with tripples' after what you had Bo.
Drop the boost just a tad and live with only 390HP than doens't cause any problems.
I ran a max of 350HP, and turned it back to 275-300 and have put well over 40K on a stock N/A L28... not that it's run for 10 years... but that is beside the point.
When one of my turbos lost a thrust bearing and lunched, I drove it for a while with tripples only...and was sorely disapointed.
Once you feel the power of the dark side, going back to the ways of a common villager is hard... your only option is to go bigger, or boost higher...
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Woah woah woah here!
If you have a 260, I'm referring to an L26. The camshaft is decidedly different than what came on L28's.
If you have an L28 in your car with a stock cam, 5500 is about 300 rpms past your power peak. They will rev higher, but if it's EFI that is falling off, you have dirty connections in the injector circuit.
The discussion was about carbs, and in a 260Z which has different characterisitics from a 240, and from a 280.
One of the biggest things you can do to 'wake up' an L28 is find one of the earlier cams from a 240, and install it. Moves the power band around a little bit, and if you have taken steps to bump compression to comparable to what the 240 had, you will be pleasantly surprised at the outcome.
But new 240 cams aren't really forthcoming, they are junkyard finds now.
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Stock Exhaust? Mine was giving me fits for some years, I'd dismissed the exhaust concentrating on fuel.
Before MSA this year, and after having driven it daily for a while, I changed the exhaust to the MSA 2.5", and viola! Car went back to revving up to redline again.
I'd removed the resonator (premuffler) some time ago...I couldnt' believe only having the stock muffler out back would cork it like it did. I haven't pulled it apart yet, but plan to just to sate my curiouisty on what happend inside the muffler to cork it up so bad...
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I ws thinkin' Centruy Big Red Buzz Box for that welding job...maybe some ER6013 rods they always make such a nice weld...
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The stuff we put in the container was a 'no residue' spider killer made for something like 3000 square foot house. It was a little cup you filled with water and then dropped the cannister into it. Got it at the local Ace Hardware Store. It was next to the Red and Yellow four-hour foggers (which we also used...)
Hence my relabeling it 'Spyderkon Z' (after the wonder Zyklon B, which was activated similarly...)
A cople of those on a little cardboard boxtop in case the stuff boils over, left to simmer overnight with the windows rolled up should do the trick inside the car.
If you have a driveway, you can take the whole box of them (there are three or four in the box as I recalled) put one on the floorboard inside, two under the front, two under the back, then cover the whole car with a piece of plastic 4 mil dropcloth and put sand down around the edges to seal it (like tenting the house for termites). That should kill everything on the car.
If you only have dirt, I'd wet it all down, then cover it and drop the pellets to send the Spiders to their Valhalla.
My suggestion, when doing this: Play Wagner Operas during the gassing time.
I don't know, maybe it's my German Heritage, I have a knack for gassing animals.
You should see the tailpipe conversion for a garden hose to stuff down gopher holes!
Hell, I even use a Volkswagen to supply the gas! Just for historical accuracy and link to the past... LOL
I'm over the edge here, aren't I?
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Sorry, I'm 7000 miles from home, haven't been there for a month, and the idiots at Garuda called me at 2AM two nights running and have totally screwed my sleep schedule back up, so if I'm a little off, forgive me. It should have been obvious that vacuum would close the actuator, and do what I mentioned. I was concurrently thinking about the BOV slowing the turbo if it wasn't set right, and the thoughts crossed at somewheres around midnight...
It's an hour earlier now, and I'm thinking better...
Small port heads.
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
That's what I did, initially! It got addictive. THEN came the compressor upgrades, injection of water....boost and more boost...
Guys don't know what they're missing until they can pump 21psi into an engine at 1700 rpms and hook it up. Even if you DO have to 'short shift' because it's a stock L28 N/A cam...you're well above 100mph by the end of the standard onramp!