Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Take it apart, clean it and that's about all you can do. The pump is an internal relief, if it's malfunctioning you get low pressure everywhere downstream. VW's didn't do that, they regulated pressure off the back of the main oil gallery, so the pump pushed all the oil to the engine first, before dumping any to the sump. Guys put relief valves on the pump covers on them to keep from blowing oil filters (which L's can do if you crank the relief valve up!)
Oil pressure is taken off the side of the block next to the oil filter---it is UPSTREAM of the oil filter, it is NOT the pressure your rods are seeing! If you have a cheap filter with a bad bypass internally that doesn't open when it's clogged...rod city man!
Usually low oil pressure is a sender thing. What kind of numbers are we talking about? I'd put a MECHANICAL gauge in where the stock sensor is positioned, and VERIFY any readings you get.
Cannon used a 1/4 NPT if I remember correctly, if not that, 3/8npt. Though the Japanese one is BSP, ---it fits, the threads are close just use a lot of PST Sealant and it should seal up fine.
G'Luck!
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278? Probably not on that manifold as an N/A but easily supported on a turbo!
But a stock ported turbo manifold with a ported head and cam on a stock bottom end (turbo) will run 300+ at 10psi of boost. The same engine terminally made 465 to the rear wheels somewhere around 20 or so psi. (JeffP's latest experiment in torture...)
He knows his stock manifold costs him 30CFM over what the port flows when mated to a Cannon Manifold that was port-matched. Were he to change over to a plenum simply bolted to the Cannon Triple Manifold, and put the appropriate TB on the front, he could pick up another 30CFM per runner in flow, and undoubtedly that HP number would climb higher from the flow restriction removed.
We must be on the same timezone now...I just landed in Nagoya! (Was in Shanghai)
I grind naked. My wife freaked thinking I was getting 'greyhaired'...prematurely!
Just remember to be careful around things that can twist other things into a knot violently! LOL
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Putting it before the turbo inlet negates any cooling benefit you'll see from injecting it after the compressor.
Case in point, my IATs are around 12 to 15 degrees C with methanol injection and a little over 40 degrees C without.
That's not true. In either injection point, there will be a change of state. The old spearco water injection was totally before the compressor simply because the pumping technology for impingement or atomization style nozzles didn't exist yet cheap enough.
The small droplets and higher pressure cause a total state change giving the maximum cooling possible. This will not change injecting it before the turbo, and with the smaller droplets of the newere systems I think 'errosion' of the turbine wheel is a bit of over-egging the pudding if you ask me.
I ran my old Corvair for YEARS on water injected from a carburettor jet impinging directly on the wheel with no noticable errosion. The advantage of this is you don't 'need' and expensive pump to pressurize it, a simple windshield washer pump would work. But you really won't control the injection rate very precisely.
The new systems allow you to use it as a precision injection of fuel and not simply anti-detonant. You can tailor the flow.
I would lay money that on a NON-INTERCOOLED system, before or after the turbo would make no difference.
On an INTERCOOLED system, I would move it after the intercooler simply because you want to cool it as close to the intake plenum as you can so it doesn't pick up heat along the way. Putting injection in before the turbo on an intercooled system would have several issues: combustible mixture in great volumes waiting for an ignition source being the first one that comes to mind.
On cooler days, there is the possibility of condensing back out of suspension in the airflow as it goes through the intercooler, with water it's easily dispensed with a small weep hole on the bottom of the piping to the T/B, but methanol can ignite, so once it's in the piping, yo uwant it to STAY in the piping!
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I know what I know, but not much more...
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All over the state. Born at the same Hospital as Michael Moore in Flint...two disparate characters from the same area you won't find!
Moved and lived in the UP for a long while, and ended up in Tawas/Oscoda before going into the Service. Got out just in time for the 'last Michigan Crisis where nobody has a job' and went west. I still have a small cabin on Lake Huron that I retreat to from time to time.
And I disagree about a 'make my day' comment. There is one scene where he discusses ventilating someone 'with this same gun I'm holding now'... That was pretty damn Harryish!
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Must be slang or profanity for 'man'. Was there a big flap in the Aussie media over this?
Not quite. We had a guy from Kenya (originially his family was Indian, as in from India) in our car club.
One day he was excoriating 'Those Bloody Pakis' (Pakistanis) for something or other up by the border area.
Understand, this guy is high-dollar Pepperdine MBA material going off on this age old blood-fued between India and Pakistan. After I had made some (baiting) commentary about "Indians Blowing things up near the Border"---of course he HAD to differentiate between "Bloody Pakis and Peaceful Indians" (the guys down under will see where I'm going with this.)
ANYWAY...
I looked him right in the eyes as he's explaining all the technical differences ad DEADPAN to him: "Bah, Hitendra, you're all just bloody Wog's to us!"
Pepperdine MBA looked like he was about to KILL me...and I think he was actually laying back to take a swing when I cracked a grin (I couldn't help it, I KNEW I got him good!)
Then he realized I was messing with him and he called me an Italian Ethnic Slur and we drank some beers or something.
There is a PRICELESS bit in the old Fawlty Towers (maybe you can find it on You Tube) where 'The Major' goes into GREAT detail about what ethnic slur is appropriate for which underclass third-worlder from every corner of the Empire. Matter-of-Factly, just rattles 'em off. They could NEVER film that today. Rioutously funny if you know the background.
Lack of proper English Plagues America, forgive those who don't know what 'wog' is... LOL:shock:
Is 'wog' proper? LOL
"WOG!" as opposed to the noise you make when you curl your arm flexed, bend your knees, and makea fist and go "WAAAAAAAUGH!"
(Python Warped me as a child, what can I say...)
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Yeah i am aware of that
The low end midrange is what you pick up with sequential easily.
No i am not going to do the one temp sensor per cylinder as its to hard and expensive( though i could just egt it ).
Going for 6 wide band sensors would just kill me.
I just want the driveablity and the economy that comes from sequential.
If you're not willing to put the goodies on there, then the 'benefit' for sequential injection will hardly justify the costs involved just so you have bragging rights.
We have polytropic head control on our compressors, NOBODY uses it save for people with purchasing departments with geek engineers who cream over the 1% cost savings in electricity they get and somehow convince beancounters that the 3X cost of the system is peanuts when your electrical bill is $1,000,000 a month. The sensro package takes a standard controller from around a $20K retrofit cost, to closer to $65K, individual inlet and outlet pressure sensors, temperature monitors into and out of each stage.... For that they may see a 1% better performance against the surge line when turned down.
For a customer running off the surge line, the costs over the $20K system would never be noticed, nor costs recovered.
Same with Sequential Injection. Look at what your Motec is going to cost you for even a 'rudimentary' sequential setup.
Then realize that economy might (and that's an iffy 'might') net you 1-2% better economy. Meaning you get what 10.2L/100Km versus 10L/100Km? For an extra $2000, you can buy a lot of petrol!
If you're basing it on 'better drivability' how do you actually quantify that? If you are unwilling to spend the $$$ for the full sequential package, how will you find the $$$ for the 50 or so hours of rolling road time to flatten out those nits in the road which make the car buck slightly when you decelerate or the hesitant millisecond long snif you get on transition when you flatfoot the car around a right hander uphill whilst looking to the east and winking with one eye? The things don't tune themselves (well, Autronic aside...) but really IMO the Autronic with the OEM style long and short term fuel trim will perform more useful functions set up as a batch-fire unit than ANY other Sequential system that you have to manually chart and configure.
The OEM's have nice stable long and short term fuel tuning loops. If I were to buy a high-dollar unit (Standalone ECU) to replace my Megasquirt, I would look FIRST for that kind of automatic fuel trimming, than for 'sequential injection'...
The usability of the box is determined by it's user friendliness. Learning to tune simple batch fire can be a load for many people. Add phasing of the injectors, individual fuel trim, and other items that can be engineered to insignificance early on in the project...and it comes down to which is the easiest to set up and do what I want it to do.
And figuring out what you want it to do has to do more with concrete numbers and performance figures than marketing buzzwords and phrases subject to purely subjective analysis.
Manufacturers went to sequential as a result of EMISSIONS REQUIREMENTS and nothing more. Until recently the processor speeds were not able to be clocked to control sequential over basic idle and low speed operations. Now that processor speed and processor cost has come down it makes fully sequential systems on OEM setups possible, and again with tightening requirements for governmental compliance REQUIRING individual cylinder fuel control and diagnostic capabilities it's not their CHOICE that they are using fully sequential.
Where emissions are not a concern, you will still find simple, durable, slow clock speed batch fired systems are the system of choice because they operate with a couple of durable sensors and are rock-solid reliable now that there is over 40 years+ of history ironing the bugs out of them.
Lot of talk about 100K mile warranties and all from the marketing department, and it really makes you think the car companies are competing to sell you a better product... but in the USA at least, it's all government mandated emissions compliance that has driven a 100K mile durability certification process. Marketing just found a way to sell you something that they had to put into the cars ANYWAY.
Just like Sequential Injection!
Think of it like this: Even in F1, sequential injection is nothing more than digital electronics controlling an analog device, the fuel injector. It's not open or closed. There is a non-linear distribution of fuel from that injector. And at higher rpms it can be pretty messy. No matter what you do you still have analog fuel delivery. Until injection technology improves the performance of the injectors, the best you will hope for is a compromise between 'least messy' alternatives.
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"Then again, i've always wanted to run one of these motors with an automatic... if only i could get a TH350 or 400 bolted up to the damn thing."
They DO make adapters for that, you know... Powerglides as well...
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I've found that someone else used different thermostat arrangements for cooling the Z independent of my surmising. And they did it to great effect.
I think there are legs to an alternate arrangement. "Amot Truck Thermostat" do a search and be surprised! LOL
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I got socks just like those! I'm wearing them now...
Even the best ported stock intake manifold (at yes, 35mm diameter) will still be down on flow by about 30CFM over a properly ported intake runner.
If you have your head ported, don't go real crazy---that manifold will likely flow in the 170-190cfm per runner range, so keep that in mind if you are shooting for a 'balanced equation' and want to keep velocities up in the ports.
As for the question about measuring the ports---keep all those old intake and exhaust valves handy! Turning them down on a lathe and putting 'stops' on the stems allows you to make a progressively taperer runner FAR easier than eyeballing it. A little smudge of machinist's blue on the rim of the valve and dunking it down the port to a specific depth reveals high spots to be attended to, as well as insuring the taper you want is present. .5mm every 25mm runner length is hard to eyeball, but if you got some stepped gauges made from old valves. Then again, as a two-stroke man you're wondering why the hell we bothered with valves at all, right! LOL
Press on...
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Go get a new module, properly ground it through the bolt holes first THEN apply power and start troubleshooting.
And consider testing with somthing more advanced than a test light. the 0-5VDC scale is more than resolute enough to verify CAS and ECU input/outputs for the sake of proper triggering at the last link in the chain (the HEI Module)...
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Thinking on it some more, the real limit for boring would be the cylinder stud spacing. And don't the LD's have larger studs than the Petrol Engines? Tehcnically that would mean the bore of an LD would be limited slightly moreso compared to a Petrol Engine with the smaller head stud diameter.
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Agreed, the Z-Series has a different 'tilt' to the engine, and the tranny will 'lay over funny' when bolted to it and put into the vehicle.
L13,14,16,18,20 all will take the standard Six Cylinder Bellhousing and the tranny will sit correctly.
But as stated earlier 'That came in the Trucks' isn't really helping anybody say yes or no, other than us limbers out there...
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Hey Tony:
Hopefully Extrudabody will be changing this "pretty advanced ECU incorporating Alpha-N/MAP blend for fuel economy and drivability" very soon!
We have a 4 cylinder ITB Set-up running now on Extrudabody Electronics where there's no Alpha-N or MAP Blend and produces 30kpa at Idle. It does require a 60-2 or 30-1 Crank Sensor set-up though! It's also Sequential injection without a CAM sensor, and has a OBD2 Plug that works with most OBD2 Scan Tools!
But does it produce 30KPa at a 900 rpm idle with a 575" lift, 280+ Duration Cam? When you aren't producing any idle vacuum from a big cam, alpha-n/blend is a nice option to have...
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Build 80X60 shop on 10 acres elsewhere to get away from the house when you have to...
Failing that, I like the three doors idea...
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Put a blow off valve and blow off the excess air you don't need.
Your blower will consume more shaft horsepower than it 'normally' would were the pressure lower. But the effeciency you loose playing with the tip speed of the impeller is worse.
A big plate on the plenum that 'lifts' at the given PSI would work, and the more area you have to dissipate the flowing air, the quieter it will be.
The centrifugal compressor has a minimum flow where it will remain stable. You just need to know where that is and make the excess flow blow off to keep it stable. Normally what would happen under overfeed is you boost higher than normal, and as rpms rise and it gets 'matched' you actually see less 'boost'. The variable speed portion of it skews the surge line all over the place, so it has a 'variable' surge point depending on the tip speed of the impeller, clearances, pressure of operation.
Slowing it down would be an experiment worth trying just to see how the boost curve is affected IMO.
Time for me to hit the sack, I gotta be up in 7 hours for work!
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Surge is the phenomenon whereby laminar flow off the wheel is separated, and reverse flows through the compressor.
This can accompany any of the above phenomenon. But surge is when the airflow stops and reverses. It can snap off blades. Blow piping joints. Make for an emergency service call worth $275,000!!!
The above discription gets into the forces but is 'muddy' on what it really is.
Centrifugal compressors are VERY influenced by speed of the wheel. The curves change dramatically. In industrial compressors as little as a 2% change in input voltage to the driver can slow the compressor enough to cause massive surging.
It's easier for me to draw a picture of the compressor curve and show on a Pressure versus Flow graph what happens in each instance. This is how I conduct training.
Imagine if you will flow on the horizontal axis, and pressure on the vertical. Zero for each is at the origin, pressure rises as you ascend the vertical axis, flow increases as you traverse the horizontal axis to the right.
The simplest surge line is a slope starting at origin and raising (for argument) at a 30 degree angle to the right. The line represents where the compressor will surge if crossing that line. It is a line denoting the minimum stable flow for the pressure and flow given.
Now, somewhere to the right of that surge curve there will be an 'eyebrow' showing the design curve of the wheel being used. Design point is on this curve. Below that point, you will get more flow for imparted horsepower to a point. Until you reach stonewall, a phenomenon where the wheel, due to the physical size, can not move any more air and flow will stagnate. It is still flowing, but regardless of horsepower applied, the pressure won't rise, and you can't get any more flow. This is in the nebulous region somewhere in or off the lower right of this graph. It is also a curve...but lets skip that!
In a drop throttle condition (assume no blowoff valve), your flow moves to the LEFT rapidly(Instantly) along the horizontal axis while simultaneously RISING along the vertical axis.... This is because the flow requirement from the engine is STOPPED, and the pressure rises simultaneously due to this. Bad Surge that continues to decrease in severity as air is discharged back through the compressor to the intake ductwork and the pressure reaches a point where the flow that exists lets the air reattach itself to the wheel and flow smoothly again through the compressor.
In a lift throttle conditon-say to half throttle, the movement to the left does not move all the way to the vertical origin line, there is still a flow demand, but the compressor will continue making air at high speed till the torque slip mentioned above equalizes. This condition will cause the same pressure rise and it may be at a higher pressure---so the surge is louder due to higher pressure, but because flow is still occuring it usually is only a couple of times and quieter---'honking' is usually what people refer to it as...
On WOT, and hammering max boost you may reach a natural surge point---that is sufficient flow to stay stable but due to increasing turbine speed the pressure keeps climbing higher and higher. You are a boostaholic so you have wired your wastegate closed. The pressure reaches a point where somewhere almost vertically from design point you will cross the surge line. WHAM! This one is LOUD. It can be repetitive and in quick succession. You lift and then it starts 'honking'...damned if you do damned if you dont---take a look at what you did when you drop throttled afte a surge: You has a pressure situation where you were ABOVE the surge line to begin with, and then moved HARD LEFT along the horizontal axis while ALREADY in surge. Compound this, the wastegate pops open and SLOWS the compressor wheel---MOVING THE SURGE LINE AS WELL!
The whole thing to understand is the way to stop surge is to throw FLOW to the compressor. FLOW may result in stonewall, but that won't break things.
This is why bypass valves should open on partial throttle IMMEDIATELY! Even LIGHT lifts of the throttle should result in a 'sigh' from the turbo piping. This drops pressure on the graph towards the horizontal, and moves the flow along the vertical to the RIGHT.
When in doubt: induce FLOW! On hard drop throttle the bypass should open and let that flow off. You set the spring 'hard' and what you see when you graph it is a slight spike towards that surge line, in addition to the same quick move to the left, before the valve opens to vent pressure and move the flow-pressure point down towards the horizontal axis and to the right towards stonewall. With a 'hard set ricer woosh spring' it is VERY possible that the toy you are using for sound effects is INDUCING a surge before doing what it was SUPPOSED TO DO: PREVENT SURGE!
Most industrial compressors will sense the pressure differentials, or the amperage change of a surge, and IMMEDIATELY pop open an unloading valve to get flow stable. They will keep in this condition for a few seconds to let flow stabilize, and then close the blowoff (unloading) valve slowly to bring the pressure in the system back up. There is more to it than this with PID loops controlling the inlet and unloading valves independently, but generally it opens WIDE to induce stable flow. Some units using older control systems may sense a surge and then just unload until there is an operator input.
If you wonder why Indy Cars never seemed to surge...they controlled boost through blowing off excess pressure to atmosphere off the top of the plenum. The big BOOM you would hear when they manually shifted (I hate the sequential boxes and paddle shifters!) was that valve opening after they dropped throttle and it had to open and vent the plenum (throttle rotors in the head...) SSSS BOOM SSSSSSSSS BOOM SSSSSSSS BOOM. It's almost like a wired close wastegate on a stock Z and running off the emergency relief valve. But this has the thing spooled and running at maximum flow almost all the time! Now, the F1 Engines of the early 80's... oooooh... gaaaaarrrrgh! F1 Turbo Cars.......gaaagggaaaargggrrrrgggghhhh!
Did I make that clear as mud, or what? It's better with graphic aids...
My photo is decidely non-corporate! WONK WONK, GEEK GEEK!
http://www.fs-elliott.com/template_cat.aspx?page=locations&grpid=211&catid=0&subid=0
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Man, am I the only guy that covets the OEM Nissan Hard as a Board Fiber Valve Cover Gasket?
I'm running original gaskets I harvested on the covers from the 80's, and they were 10 years old THEN!
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Maybe 4mm or .160" over......
Just kidding, don't do that to an L24.
Why not? Seriously! Why not?
If sonic testing says you can do it...why not overbore like crazy put an LD Crank in there, and make everybody at the FIA Spec Races wonder how you are getting so much power out of a measly L24...
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For even a warmed over Z engine, the 1.65 size is capable of supporting full engine power well into the 7500+ rpm range.
In our testing 1.75" ITBs were worth about 17Hp at 7500 rpms over 1.42", and around 40HP at 8200 rpms over the 1.42" ITBs...
Unless you are planning on going that high, 1.42 ITBs flow a healthy figure. 1.75's gave us a bump, but up so high would you really need it? The added tuning complexity inherent in the larger throttle bodies dictate a pretty advanced ECU incorporating Alpha-N/MAP blend for fuel economy and drivability.
The 1.495" bodies are very well suited for an all around Z-Engine (normally aspirated) up to the 300HP to the rear wheels range. Turbocharged...WOAH NELLY!
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Derek, That is absolutely stunning! Sorta has that era period, full tilt factory backed race car engine appearance! If Nissan themselves campaigned a 240-Z with EFI, THIS is how I envision it looking! Incredible!
CLOSE! The lucas slide valve was ITB style, while the actual NISSAN EFI campaigned in the early 70's in rally competition used Weber Style EFI Bodies much like available today, save they were cast with "Nissan" on the body instead of "HKS" or "TWM" stuck on the original Japanese Spec Triples Manifold (think old Nissan Motorsport Manifold). The JECS brain they had was VERY similar to the ECU used on the early VW Type 3's with all the wires leading directly into the casing with a strain relief on the outside and the sensor wires directly to the circuitboard. No MAP sensor like the VW, just throttle position and rpm based fuel delivery. (Alpha N) They had some pretty radical camshaft profiles, so I'm guessing the Alpha-N is the only way to go. I personally would like to drive that setup just once to compare it to the $400 Megasquirt on a similar setup today.
I don't even want to THINK what that setup cost the factory in developmental and hardware costs.
I was not in a position to buy those Nissan Throttle Bodies when they were offered to me...you don't KNOW how it haunts me. Talk about the ULTIMATE old-school Trump-Card at a car show where someone contends the EFI 'Is not Stock'---what can be more stock that something with NISSAN cast into it!
What? You didn't know Nissan Campaigned EFI Equipped 240Z's in Europe in 1972?
Oh...
"Just livin' up to the name!"
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C'Mon, it's an ESL situation here.
This makes at least TWO Z-Cars that are running around Kuwait that I know of...
This brings me great pleasure!
There is a 260Z 2+2 in Oman, a guy with a 280ZX Turbo in Abu Dhabi, and now TWO guys in Kuwait with Z-Cars for me to visit when I go there!
THIS IS GREAT NEWS.
I have to also say his English is far better than my ANYTHING ELSE!
Hopefully you are getting what you need The Z. PM Me with some contact information, and if I travel to Kuwait for business, as much as possible I will contact you for a 'wish list' of things to bring with me that are hard for you to get locally. I already have an L28 in an ABS tube for 'The Other' Z running around Kuwait!
Just pray for KNPC to give my company a call, and make sure they ask for "Tony D out of the Los Angeles Office"
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Take a look at the MSA 2008 Nationals Photos in the AutoX section.
There are photos of Frank280ZX's 79 ZX running the 13X8 Diamond Wheels. The thing took 5th fastest time of the day running cut 2+2 springs, Illuminas, stock sway bars and stock drivetrain with a stripped interior. It was LOW and STUCK LIKE GLUE!
It's the white car with the John Coffe FRP Hood (black) that cost more than the car and parts did combined!
I would recommend the 13X8 with some good slicks. They cleared the brakes fine, and with the Portefield R4S pads they would pull you up out of the seat on braking!
The gear ratio advantage you get makes the stock gearset nice. You will be in second/third and sometimes even 4th on faster courses! Frank was really happy with the setup.
No flares, no coil overs, and if he had the MSA Swaybars on that thing the body lean you see in those photos would be gone!
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Me being from where I am from, I never understood the true meaning of the term you use....
Take a trip up to Rome/Utica and hang around the neighborhood near the Brewery. You will see other shining examples closer to your home!
Though I must defer to Carl Beck...living in Florida gives him a special appreciation of the definition of the word (panhandle trash?) and more expertise than me.
What I have found is living in California, 'white trash' has little to do with Income level as well. You can be a millionare and still be a toothless, unhygenic slob with a stained t-shirt driving a truck around with dogs in the back and a penchant for your neices...
Though by the descriptors thus far, I'm probably close to qualifying on the surface if you were to drive by the yard on any given day.
I rationalize to myself that at least I try to make what is laying around look presentable, or at least make an attempt to keep it from public view. I mean, when you got 32 cars in the yard, and at least two of them are supported by either wood or old rims laying on their sides 'White Trash' surely must come to mind!
But code enforcement has a LOT worse than me to deal with in my neck of the woods! LOL
Sorta has that era period, full tilt factory backed race car engine appearance! If Nissan themselves campaigned a 240-Z with EFI, THIS is how I envision it looking! Incredible! 
Modified l28et manifold
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Oh, don't get me wrong, I wasn't arguing about the number, that AFM flow will support that, just not on the stock manifold in an N/A configuration...
Raw flow numbers are fine and dandy for figuring out ultimate HP, but watch the vacuum (or Kpa) gauge while you're up around 7000 rpms and watch what happens to that plenum as an N/A. The engine will be 'very efficient' at that rpm, but it won't be flowing that kind of flow...
It's like a car that shows 0"HG at WOT....by the time you're doing 170mph+, nobody is interested in looking at the vacuum gauge to realize at max speed and max power of the engine, for some reason they're back up around 9" (Or Higher) Hg of vacuum.
John Coffee's engine was making numbers like that on a stock 'looking' manifold, but it was a lot more than 35mm runners and a widened plenum.
I've seen high 180's on a stock EFI manifold, and if I'm not mistaken some that bumped 200HP (RWHP) but they were the exception and not the rule.
BUT...
For a TURBO, you can make a LOT more HP on the stock manifold than a lot of the 'experts' said was possible. 650+ in fact.... Sure, you could make more with another 30cfm of flow per runner (and at a lower indicated boost level) but at that point it's a matter of degrees and what you can practically put to the ground.
I think the ported stock manifold on a ported head, with a cam will make more than your goals.
I was just saying that porting for an intake flow of 220CFM at 25"Hg and 550" lift is simply overkill as the intake will only flow around 180-190. Buying a port job in that range is a LOT cheaper in most cases than one that would flow 220cfm on the intake... and really would be a waste of money unless you decided you would upgrade to a different, better flowing runner design some time in the future.
Again, not arguing that 178-190 flow per runner would produce that HP range in theory... It's just in practical N/A application things work differently than the models.
Since you are turbo that number (and your goal) is well within reach. Which is why I mentioned JeffP's setup making 300+ @ 10psi. That is with the flow figures I mention above (runner flow around 190cfm on the manifold, and +30CFM on the head) with cam. That should give you an idea of the potential of what you are building in practical, proven real-world numbers on an actual vechile.