Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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OH! The delicious Irony of it all...
I boarded ANA / China Air 6682 from Nagoya to Shanghai Pudong this morning and what do I see on the IN FLIGHT MOVIE SELECTION FOR COACH?!?!?!?!
I find it deliciously ironic that it was subtitled in Chinese and Japanese and played in English on the flight.
My second-watching chortles were somewhat stifled when I started to realize they probably WERE accurately translating some of those one-liners...and nobody else seemed amused...
And then to top it all off, we landed ahead of schedule but about 20 minutes...
Only to be boarded by Infectious Disease/Quarantine Workers who held us on the plane more than an hour after someone in the back of the plane apparently had a temperature, and you can't afford to have case 5 out of 1,000,000,000+ people with the Pig Flu.
From Mars Attacks spontaneous utterance: "Ya don't eat pork?"
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My understanding is the Mistubishi Starions (turbo) of similar vintage have a beefier 4N than the standard Maxima Trannies (similar mods as done to Nissan 3N's for turbo service: more clutches, different line pressures, governor settings and valving, etc).
Bernard may be speaking of picking the 4Planet setup from later 4N's on other Nissan Models. The Starion stuff just has more clutches as far as I know. Change the bellhousing and maybe a U-Joint on the propshaft, and it's more durable than the N/A Maxima Setup at least.
Gotta love governmental guidance in Automotive Supply: "You will buy your autoboxes from this supplier, because it's our money supporting their consolidation"---and JATCO (Japan Automatic Transmission Company) was born! So Mitsu and Nissan had the same basic tranny module for years. Hell, so did Toyota, but they kept 2 speeds (Toyoglide) for waaay too long. INTO THE 70's!
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Why when the stock BOV in #4 intake runer is very efficient as long as you aren't running some ungodly boost number, or have added a lot of volume to the delivery system (like an I/C and all the piping)?
Plug the Emergency Relief Valve at the rear of the manifold with a pipe plug.
As long as you are in the 10-12 psi range, you should be fine with the stock turbo and J-Pipe using the Nissan BOV in the intake runner. No complex piping to run to the rubber hose between the AFM and throttle body, and you keep the added benefit of vacuum control for less oil suckdown on drop-throttle situations.
This 'has all been covered before'...
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An "0" sized drill bit or reamer would move the pintile hole to the large sizes, I think. They make drills especially for making pockets. But many o-ring - o-ring injectors fit the holes without doing anything.
With 35psi at idle, 50 sounds low for 15psi, if you have 45psi 'on throttle' and that means "0" manifold vacuum, then you most definately are low on pressure.
Best way to know what you should have is to take a 'static' fuel pressure test. Remove the sensing line from the FPR and see where your fuel pressure runs at---you can rev the engine slightly to keep it running if it goes way rich, it won't change with the line disconnected. If you can initiate the fuel pump without starting the car, that is the pressure you can refer to as 'Static'...
For an EFI car, the pressure at the injectors must rise equivalent to boost. So at 45psi Static Fuel Pressure you go to 10psi boost you have 55psi fuel pressure, at 15 boost 60 fuel pressure, etc...
What's the world coming to? Web cam to monitor fuel pressure. I've officially become a Dinosaur with my long fuel hose and big-numbered Fuel Pressure Test Gague Duct Taped to the windshield for speed runs.
I'll probably bet you not only are running out of injector, you're out of pump as well. Take a look through the search on the Porsche 944 Turbo Pump, it should be available locally though a Bosch Vendor through the Bosch P/N. External pump, BTW. If you need an In-Tank pump, the Z32 pump works well, but it may have to be adapted.
But you're right, 16-17AFR is 'lean' as in way to little fuel. Does it start dropping gradually, and linearly with the RPM rise as you have your foot in it at full boost?
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Only on an intercooled car Bo.
In a non-intercooled car, the argument can be made for pre-turbo injection as a more efficient model as change of state at point of compression increases adibiatic efficiency of the compressor, whereas injecting it afterwards only gives you state change, with no resultant increase in compression efficiency.
I'm so happy my non-disclosure agreement with Cosworth has expired, I can say this happily, and with a clear concience:
If injecting methanol after the turbo wasn't any more efficient, CART teams wouldn't be using Counterflow Methanol Injection into the inlet of the turbines on the CART cars... I'm only parroting the engineers at Cosworth on their explanation to me on why the nozzles were in front of the turbine instead of elsewhere...
The cooling effect is one plus. But the compressor efficiency effect is one that goes unnoticed! Most of you guys know that the turbocompressor is a slave to it's thermodynamics. Cool that compression down and those "74%" islands on the map get fatter and fatter... And some other islands may well appear. And when those islands get bigger, that surge line moves left on the graph even further...
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I spent many an hour secreted away in the B36 on static display at Chanute AFB while attending technical training there. That plane was just TOO COOL not to break into and check out.
Alas, it's no longer there (had an Alley-Oop for nose art) when I last returned. I wonder where it went. It would be a shame if it got wasted... I hope some municipality of museum took it in, it was just neat overall. Suprisingly BIG...
All I have is photos of the nose from outside. Having flashes go off after dark was a way to get the SP's on your tail and a 'special gift from the government'....
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75 tank is less work, and works out of the box...
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There are two versions of that manifold, one for L20E and one for L28E, the head side is larger for the L28, and it takes the Throttle Body pictured on the right, I believe. One has a primary the size of an American Dime, the other about the size of an American Nickel, with corresponding secondary throttle plate differences as well.
The primary will run you to about 3500rpms and there is a definate 'point' in the throttle pedal play where you end up resting your foot (like GM did on the Suburbans with a big block)---keeps you on the primary even at high-speed cruise (in my 260, 3500 is citation speed in 5th gear!) with what feels like phenomenal throttle response when that secondary kicks in and travels faster in the last 1/4 pedal than the little plate did in the first 3/4 of travel! BuuuuWAAAAH!
I digress... LOL
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Wingquist, contact Adrian at VA Motorsports Engineering in Holland. (Posts here as Z-Spec I think...) He uses the AP parts on his own flywheel... a photo exists at this page:
http://www.va-motorsport.com/index.php?page=7A
He also races FIA with some Shelbys, and has prepped several Z's as you will see from the link.
Good Luck!
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That would work, but be extremely complex. The issue is the 'knifing' of the flow through each of the respective cylinders as it comes forward.
Coming forward is the problem. If all the water for the head exits out above each combustion chamber, then they ALL can go to a common thermostat housing because the flow will be greatly equalized.
Even Nissan Recognised this EARLY in L-Head development. The FIA heads DO NOT run thermostats like we have, they have three LARGE water passages and a separate manifold with the thermostat in the end of it. Much like the four cylinder L-Heads have going to heat the manifold...
The LY is similar, with a separate water manifold taking water off much higher into a separate manifold and to the radiator throug a thermostat mounted separately.
Note the OS Gikken Head has the same (almost looks identical to the LY) water manifold off the intake side of the head with the thermostat in the end of it.
And all the above were specifically designated for HIGH OUTPUT N/A USAGE in endurance racing. Nissan knew there was an 'oops' when pushing the envelope for the L-Engine even in N/A trim. But few people run their cars like those racers, so it usually doesn't show as an issue.
Large Horsepower Turbo Engines of the 80's had similar setups, the photos are out there...
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Hey, I clicked that link, and it said it was an invalid link......
Maybe that's a good thing, eh?
LOL
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I'm with the crowd here for more than one reason:
Stock L28ET injectors are larger, and even THEY start to run lean at stock fuel pressures above 10psi and higher rpms. Add that intercooler and go above 12psi without added fuel pressure (and a pump capable to move it!) Even with elevated base fuel pressure of 50psi instead of the 36-40, you aren't making up for it. What you got is in essence a 4.8 L engine there, and most Mustangs are running 18 to 24# injectors... and that's with 8 cylinders, you got 2 less! that means a minimum of a 240, but more realistically a 320cc injector is the MINIMUM flow you want to have for that setup.
Second, you neglect to mention which FUEL PUMP you're using. The stock internal bypass lifts around 60 psi... So you start at 50psi, add 15psi of boost for 65psi...
The stock pump bypasses around 60psi... 65>60, you are running LESS fuel through the injector as a function of decreased delta across the orifice from 60psi on up. At lower RPMS you may not notice it, but likley 4500 is where you should use the most fuel, and it's only because of gawds grace you haven't blown anything running to 7K (though you DO pull fuel after torque peak, which is probably what is saving you!)
BTW, you don't define what 'Lean' really is, nor your quantification stnadard. If you are running 13.8 instead of 12 like you wanted, your small injectors are simply pulling the fuel you should have been pulling anyway! You're just lucky, eh?
The sizing is really dependent on your flow through the engine. JeffP is making like 465hp at that boost level. That requires a different injector size than someone running a stock engine and just cramming boost to it (likely a 450 would do then, instead of a 720!)
With a Megasquirt, I'd say get some Mercedes injectors (450cc's) or some SVO squirters (370cc's), turn your fuel pressure back to a reasonable level and use the Fuel Management for what it's there for: controlling the fuel. Shoot for your duty cycle to be less than 80-85%. Realize there is latency in opening and closing an injector, the lower duty cycle you have the more time you have for opening and closing the injectors. The MS shoud easily control a good idle at 450cc injectors, or even 550cc injectors. That leaves you plenty of headroom for mods, flow improvements, or even fuel added as cooling....(digression beckons...)
Man, I'm tired today, I'm hitting the hay. Flight is tomorrow at 6AM...BAH!
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Don't forget to use the PCV valve off a Nissan! It has flow characterisitics that give some strange evacuation flow rates. You would think at idle it would suck like crazy, and at WOT (low vacuum) it would close up and become inefficient...but it really does work well (uses a tapered spool through an orifice internally to control flow rates almost contrary to what you would think based on volume and vaccum present!)
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Holiday? You mean Monday the 25th?
It's been here and gone, and I worked it!
Other side of the dateline, and not an end to the job in sight!
Maybe I'll be back for 4th of July.
Who would have thought in 1975, 1950, or 1945 that I would be leaving Japan, flying over Korea, on a flight to China, trying to stall a two week job in VietNam?
Talk about the 'Memorial Day Ironies'!
I wonder of Hooters in Shanghai will have a BBQ outside for some burnt animal flesh? I think I'm dreamin', but there's no harm in that...
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I agree with the 16 footer. Tiedown is a PITA. Even with a set of Mac's Custom Tiedowns and strapping to the axles, it's not an easy 'hook and go' like a longer trailer with D-Rings you ca neasily access behind the bumper...
Now again, if the trailer is like $250... I can put up with a LOT of nusiance for that kind of money! Twitchy or not, you can always ballast the tongue with something like a heavy toolbox and winch (though not to tall, that front end will likely be hanging out there a bit!
Waitaminit...Moreno Valley? Figures I'm out of the country when a cheap utility trailer comes up on the market. I need something small for the boy's 510, and that's right in line with the size for that little thing (as well as the Opel GT!)
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That's neat as hell!
As I need to get a spray-in for the Dually, I'm going to have 'a little something extra' for the boys at Line-X to shoot. I'll see if they will throw it in as a freebie. If they won't, I'll tell them that 'the other guys will, I guess I'll go there then!'...
If only this was posted when I had the wife's Frontier done, I'd have a nice dash in the turd now! LOL
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PCV, NOS, and Brake Booster Vaccum Source.
Usually there are two more, that aren't in the plenum, but in a separate chamber beneath it, and that is for your bypass water supply from the thermostat base through those two lines and thence to the water pump inlet---it helps with cold weather drivability and in humid climates keeps the bottom of the plenum from turning into one huge ball of ice (icing!).
Hope that helped.
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now if I'm hearing your right, there is really no way of producing stable flow without increasing the flow thru the supercharger. well,.......what if there was a one way valve after the compressor that started to vent at say 5psi and would be large enough in size to allow just enough "extra" flow to prevent the unstable condition? that would effectively change the angle of the line to put it just inside the stable region of the compressor. does this sound correct? what happens if I do the wastegate thing at the higher supercharger rpm? how might the surge line change with a higher impleller speed at a governed boost level?
I thought that's what I said?
Yes, simply bleed off the excess imparting an excess flow, and as your rpms rise the engine will suck more, causing that venting valve to close accordingly. You change the slope of the line and that is exactly what you have to do. I'm glad you realized the slope crossed and went into surge!
When you have higher rpms, you get more efficient. You could simply alter the blowoff like you mention, OR...
Divide the flow, using your wastegate to control some set ammount of flow, the the bleeder to control the rest. Say 50% each of them contributing to the flow situation. After a given point, with something like a fuzzy logic boost controller, you could signal the wastegatge to close and provide more boost after a given rpm. This would let the curve go vertically from that point, while the other bleeder kept you to the right of surge.
Basically, your orifice being simply a hole in the piping would move that line to the right quite simply. Maybe put an Allied Wittan Muffler on it so it's not happily whistling hot compressed air all the time... but with so much excess capacity that may be the easiest way to go about figuring out how to make it do what you want. Just dump the excess through an orifice that you progressively bore larger between passes until you find a point where you are blowing too much and can't maintain your boost. From there, you have a practical limit of orifice, and given you know the pressure you can back calculate the flow you're dumping.
Then back to the graph to figure out where you want to make the line 'go up straight' for the boost spike towards higher rpms.
Split the difference and then start tuning the characteristics of the valves.
Oh, if my job were that easy. Today, I'm beat up and 'have no face'---the Japanese are brutal. And I got suck with responsibility for the whole country. When you know the answer and depend on others to come through...and then they don't, ARRGH!
But I digress... At least this one isn't surging!
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http://www.who-sells-it.com/images/catalogs/4086/20156/ct/2009-street-rod-parts-000094.jpg
Lower left Corner... that little box don't need to be on the side of the head. And when liberated as to where the flow goes...you can port and duct and move all sorts of stuff through smaller hoses to a remote housing and thence on to the rad-i-diddy-ator...
Since a schematic of the flow was put up earlier, check this page out, for what I think the solution would be:
http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/amot/06v-j-valve-thermostatic-control-valve/15809-10648-_2.html
They make housings that are big and bulky, I just haven't dicked around with the AMOT application catalog to get dimensions to make one out of a block of aluminum. The tolerances aren't that critical, just the o-ring that seals, and you can buy them in 5 degree increments. They come in all sizes, so if you only wanted to increase the flow in the back of the head over a given temperature (say 190F) then you can run a split cooling system with a smaller amot controlling that section of flow control, while the main thermostat is set to 160 (or whatever...)
Big trucks use these style thermostats because you can flow a gob of water through them and they are very good at controlling tempperature long term. I just liked the appeal of one of their smaller ones controlling heating throug the Carb Bases (another project...don't ask!) which shuts off once the car is warm---like the stock 73/74 carbs did! Get gooder cold drivability with the controlled vacuum leak, and then shut the flow off and cool that manifold for warmed-up power... But it works in this application as well.
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Searching Google turns up a lot of the same information...
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Power it on, leave the power on. If it doesn't get hot...it's toast.
Another big indication is not being able to get any spark when you gate the appropriate terminals with voltage...like you are mentioning.
All it takes is a second ungrounded, and POOF. Go get another one. When I was doing it, there were old-timers complaining because 'points don't take a crap like that!' They were used to being able to leave power on for a while to do testing. I don't know, maybe their brains worked slower. A lot of them didn't comprehend when the Simpson didn't deflect, no matter how you try it...it means there's nothing there!
And those Wells Aftermarket Modules are sh*t crap junk. I KNEW what I was doing and STILL three of them fried or were bad right out of the box! The fourth was a heat-soak victim from power on too long in the wrong trigger position. But #5 was the lucky one. And I only paid $13 for it, every one was 'back under warranty' with me griping for the time it was costing me. I actually picked up the one that WORKED on my way to the speed shop to pick up the Per-Tronix Module because I was sick of the cheapo stock replacements. As I understand it some of the performance aftermarket modules use much higher grade components, and are far more tolerant of power on mistakes. But even they will fry without casing ground. It just takes a few seconds longer.
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Argh! You took an L28ET Turbo OFF correct?
Use the wastegate actuator off it, and reclock the housing. Use it as a guid to where it should line up to be, as well.
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That would be where I put it, as long as it's one of the High-Pressure Injection systems, before the T/B is where you want to be.
If you didn't have an I/C, it won't make a difference in cooling.
If you do, it's slightly better after the I/C as you can see from KTM's example, you are using such a fine atomized mist, that change of state will occur even at much lower temperatures, so you get the possibility of better-than-perfect intercooling (charge temperature below turbo inlet temperature)...
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They are a different ground. One is a reference for one circuit, the holes are ground reference for the power transistor and internal circuitry.
Without the holes grounded, voltages inside that module go on spiking frenzies, and toast the internal components "toot-sweet"...
When I was working at a GM dealership in 79 and 80, the one thing the GMI guy giving the HEI Training stressed was to NEVER power-on an HEI until the module was BOLTED DOWN (with the heat-transfer grease of course!)
The other thing that kills them is heat, either from not greasing the base, or insufficient heat sink in aftermarket applications. I have mine on an aluminum plate that is 5X8 and it STILL gets HOT to the touch. You want surface temperature to be below 145-150F if at all possible. Inside the distributor isn't the greatest place to put these things, but I guess the boys from GMI didn't want to copy Chrysler, who bolted their HEI Module to the firewall....a BIIIIIG heat sink!
BTW, both the metallic bottom and the metal 'rivets' through those holes are connected, and are all the same common ground plane. It is totally isolated from the circuitry that the "Ground" wire is hooked to...which is part of the reason these things go bad so often...people don't see much about it other than 'bolt it down'---they never get the whole GM explanation of WHY it needs to be securely fastened to the chassis ground. Many times, you can find grounding straps on HEI dizzies that had issue with intermittent spark---someone was under the impression that an aluminum dizzy base bolted into a cast iron block might not be grounded properly (apparently Nissan thinks this as well, as they have a Factory applied ground strap!)... Generally on a Chevy though it was an issue that the HEI was intermittently taking a dump because of heat. Nobody drilled holes in the cap and let the air cleaner pull air thorough the cap to keep cool air circulating... ooops! Someone did!
If you are using a four pin HEI (or ANY HEI) and insist on running Autozone or aftermarket crap cheap modules, KEEP A SPARE IN THE GLOVE BOX!
I went through three or four HEIs from Autozone before getting one that WORKED RIGHT. That is the one in my glove box as the roadside spare. I put a Per-Tronix Flamethrower on because I didn't like the weak spark of the AZ Crap. It was a whole $40...no big deal there and I have the satisfaction of knowing I have parts that clearly say 'For off Road Use Only, Not Highway Legal' on my streeter! LOL
Thing to take away from this is there are TWO ground circuits on a GM 4 Pin HEI. And the one through the BOLTS is the CRITICAL one, if it's not connected...YOU FRY IT!
So if my thermostat isnt opening would that cause all my issues!!
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
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Doesn't the thermostat control the temperature that the CHT is sensing?
I think that would classify it as something that can affect how the engine runs. It's an input variable.
My vote is for a loose CHT or Water Temperature Sensor. Knock that thing loose or have it vibrate off running along and it does exactly what he's experiencing. I died at the Willow Springs Big Track when mine vibrated off after the holder broked...
A coupla quick checks following FSM guidelines will tell all on the sensors, etc...