Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I remember when NEW Nissan OEM rockers were only $12 each, and people balked at the exorbitant pricing of $144 for a set of 12!
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Yep, that's a BAE Aftermarket Turbo. The tow rig I just bought was from an engineer that remembers doing some 'debelopmental and research work for BAE on Datsuns'. My partner giggled a bit and suggested 'BRE' and I corrected him that 'No, there was a BAE as well, they made turbo kits for all the S30 series: 240, 260, and the EFI 280Z.'
Wow, an old Deltagate! Cool. Rajay Turbo as well. Definately old-school!
Too bad you seem to have the deriguer 'CWC Cam Billet Death from lack of ZDPP in the oil'... Bummer.
Looks like aftermarket spring retainers...Odd. That turbo kit is a neat period piece.
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Thing is all the five speed cars came with 3.9's instead of the US Spec 3.36 gears. Driving a non-US spec car is like driving someone's car from here that has already upgraded the differential.
The Four Speeds outside the USA came with a 3.7 gearset. Still better than the 3.36.
Fairlady Z's with those little Buzzy 2 liters? Anything was available from 3.7 to 4.38 STOCK!
Woo Hoo! Proper Gearing for the Engine's Operational Torque Curve!
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In either location---sump or the pump outlet to the thermostat, as long as the sensing element is bathed in flowing oil, it should read almost the same temperature. Sometimes the temperature out of the pump is slightly higher at the oil filter due to more heat picked up in the block, but we are talking 3-5 degrees in this case. Nothing the gauge will show, but that a digital thermocouple readout would.
That location should be fine.
Drive harder. It will take 30 minutes + in cool weather to get up to oil temperature.
A strange thought on this, I just bought an oil pan heater, as well as a block heater for the Dually. Not that it gets that cold here....but starting that baby stone cold (30 to 40 degrees) means a LOT of water needs to be heated up. If I heat the oil and the water, I spend less time (if any at all) on the cold-start circuit.
With a 7.4 Liter Dually....used mostly for short trips....that can mean a significant increase in mileage. My testing has shown thus far that I go from a solid 8mpg to 10mpg (almost 11) by preheating the water alone. Which is what I get when tooling along warmed up at 65mph unloaded.
The oil heater is just bitchen cool to have, we used them on diesels I used to work on, and they make nice gear heaters for assembly work since they are internally self-regulated to not exceed specific temperatures. So if the water heater gives me warmish oil from the get go, I'm keeping the oil heater for some other stuff! LOL
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I would strongly disagree with the characterization about the Isky company. Ed was the one that used the existing grinds, and many copied Isky's grinds at that time. It was when Ron Isky got out of the USAF got his engineering degree that the Isky Designs were reworked to asymetrical profiles and incorporated modern and proper design techniques. And that was some time ago. Racer Brown cams from the early 70's also incorporated the asymetric profiles that are required for proper Nissan OHC stability.
And Ron is VERY much alive. And he does grinds that are custom. He knows the L Series Valve Train, and if you talked to him...when he has the time...you can learn a LOT.
Iskendarian was instrumental in the cam grind that holds the F/PRO record at El Mirage and Bonneville...
Someone on 'another site' recently flamed me quite severely for contradicting their statement that a '0.550" lift cam was required' on an engine making 320HP to the rear wheels. Our Bonneville engine does just that, and is well below that lift figure!
I agree there is a lot of misinformation out there regarding cams, but if you scrape around in history and find the people out there that have knowledge... They know a lot and are more than willing to let people know what is right and wrong.
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Basically what I realized was this: "If it's fuzzy, put in some tear drops, blink twice, and see if it gets better."
It was WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more than 4-8 times a day. It was more like 2 times an hour while indoors, and more when I was outside in the wind.
I wsa not using the 'persistent' type of artificial tears with an oil content, just the saline stuff. The doctor said "when in doubt, drop in tears before freaking out". He specifically told me not to use the persistent oil-based artificial tears.
That seemed to work for me. You might try dropping the tears more often, or follow my axiom above and see if that helps.
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Even before catalyst recycling was popular, they cut out the cats. The fine is the same to a shop for selling a used one, as it is for knowingly removing a functioning one!
Drive down to your local smog check station and ASK them what you need. The techs will tell you. in many cases they can test your car and will tell you what you need as well.
There is the possibility that if they are on an idle-2500 static test, and tailpipe only criterion as long as it's clean out the tailpipe you will pass.
The EFI when working properly is very clean, and the catalyst is along for the ride...
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I could see TWM buying that piece and charging $1500 for it...
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What you have is a low resolution temperature sensor. It will only give you a general idea of what is going on with the oil temperature. Low mounting in the sump may give you an idea because it's bathed in the oil more directly. Trying to get a 'flowing' measurement is difficult without disrupting flow through the line.
Normally people will monitor sump temperature by a bulb in the sump. And where you are monitoring it, technically that is what you are seeing I suppose.
Thing is, your thermostat is a 'bypass through the cooler' setup, to it maintains a constant temperature downstream of the thermostatic valve.
In theory you should see a rise in the sump temperature as the constant temp out of the thermostat would be subject to different load issues in the engine and drain back to the sump at different temps at different times.
To get the oil at a constant temperature, the thermostat will not direct a constant flow through the cooler, but rather let the oil in it sit for as long as possible and cool down as much as possible, and 'remix' your hot oil from the sump with super cool oil from the cooler return to get a given temperature downstream to the engine. If you have a highly stressed engine then the flow through the cooler would be more. During low stress engine operation likely you will have two hot lines and two cool lines. The hot lines will be 'in and out' of the thermostat in the direction of the oils flow to the bearings as the cooler may not be in play at all and the lines to and from it may have time to cool completely.
During extreme stress (high speed driving up a long grade let's say)---then you will likely have THREE hot lines: To the thermostat, to the cooler, and to the engine, with ONE cold line---that FROM the cooler back to the thermostatic body for the Mixing feature.
In most cases you will be able to feel this with your hands, but some times you will need an I-R Thermometer to differentiate the temperatures that are happening.
The worst case is that all the hoses are identical in temperature, and the oil is something like 240+F. Then that would tell you your engine is highly stressed and producing heat that your cooler can't sufficiently reject.
The immediate precursor to this situation is that you will start seeing high oil temps into the thermo body from the engine, to the cooler, and from the cooler it's still relatively cool, but even with the thermo mixing valve all the way open letting that cool oil mix with the hot from the engine...it still isn't making it back to the design thermostatic setpoint.
Normally you would see 180-220 oil temperature. Examples of each situation follow:
220 from sump, out of pump, to Thermo Body. To Cooler hose may be anywhere from 220 on down to close to 100F. From Cooler hose will be something like 10 degrees above ambient temperature (say 80F on a 70 degree day). From Thermostat hose to the engine will be in the area of 180.
On a stressed run, if you are datalogging, you might see 220 in sump, 220 to cooler, 80 from cooler, and 180 to engine.
Overloading the engine and oil cooler's capacity (again if you are datalogging), it may be 235 and rising in sump, 235 to cooler, 190 to the thermostat and 200 to the Engine.
Worst case is where you have totally overloaded the whole schebang, and you see 275+ in the sump, 275 to the cooler, 200 from the cooler to the thermostat, and 245 to the engine.
There should usually always be a differential across the cooler as long as you are running sufficient oil flow through it, and cooling medium across it. Really the differentials across each part of the system would be the same if it was running at constant load and everything ws in equlibrium, but unless you are in a stationary powerplant you likely won't see it.
Unless you have K-Style Thermocouples strapped to the various points to do some checking while you're actually working the engine it may become very difficult to diagnose someting wrong. If you have a LARGE oil cooler, the flow through it may indeed be VERY LOW as you will cool that oil to near ambient, and if you only have say 200 degree oil in the sump it will not take a whole lot of flow mixing 70 degree oil to drop that 200F to 180F in the line to the engine. (Check out the thread on EGT monitoring for some links to K-Thermocouples and multiple readers that can be used for this kind of check.)
This can also happen at idle.
In both of these cases, you will have 'two hot and two cold' lines. it will LOOK as if the thermostat isn't doing anything, but in reality it only really works when you are really loading up the engine.
If you are driving in 60 and low 70 degree weather, you may not see 180F in your oil. A large sump can make it take a while to come up to temp as well. If you are running a 160F thermostat in your water system, it may take a while for the oil to get beyond 180 as well. Oil temperatures usually end up 20-40F higher than your water temperature, and react quicker to loads than the water system. When you have 275F oil temperature, you may well expect to have some water cooling issues unless you have a good cooling system and a high pressure radiator cap!
I hope that made some sense to explain how it all works.
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When the driver's suit costs $1100, what's another $5?
LOL
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Critical commentary doesn't mean it necessarily was any more difficult than putting on a used removed piece and having to attend to all those issues. Most cases they are considerably easier to fit than used panels when you consider the warts they may be concealing as used parts.
For the effort in harvesting, straightening, and possibly finding rust after a panel is removed...new TABCO parts are money ahead when you look at it.
Best thing you will find short of OEM repair panels.
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Damn, did I type that?
Where did all my rum go? Man, that stuff I took home from the office closet cleanout was potent.
Nothing better than taking free alcohol home from work!
LOL
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Yeah, mine was some ridiculous number as well, and if you weren't 20/20 minimum in both eyes after the surgery you got a free 'redo' till you were.
You are back into normal tear production, or are you still using liquid tears like crazy? I know I was using that stuff for months afterwards. And now, years on, I keep it around for long days as I realized a lot of eye fatigue comes from siimply being dehydrated and it's easier to put drops in my eyes than to stop work and 'get properly hydrated' which may take hours...
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Of all places, Saginaw Michigan...
I am having issues with quick loading of the photos, so I can't look at them closely. But that's a short hop from Pittsburgh. Less than 4 hours drive...
I've seen less sell for more. Bad time and the wrong part of the country to try and get $3500 for that car.
Lots of missing correct items.
$1000, 1500 maybe. I could buy it for that and park it in the garage of the cabin up north... hammmmmm....
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The DHLA's likely have the turbo shaft seals and emulsion tubes. The emulsion tubes richen under boost.
It's all standard parts that can be had easily enough. The 40DHLA's were good enough for OEM Fittment in Blowthrough Turboservice for the early Maserati BiTurbo.
But as Daeron says, for an N/A the 40's may be a bit small. 45's would likely be better, though for a street engine and if you aren't concerned with total horsepower output, they would work nicely for around town driving with nice throttle response. They will just fall off in HP above a set RPM range. You can upsize the chokes and get fairly close to the HP you would get with a street setup with 45's... It's a tossup, really.
If it's what you can get, it's what you can get!
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This was a conversation at the GroupZ Installation Banquet.
Someone was asked if they checked Hybrid Z already...
It's like BRAPP was there, reading our minds, and posted almost at the exact time that conversation was taking place!
What, were your ears burning?!?!?!?!?!
"I wonder how well it's going to be able to cover each swap."
Basically, the way I look at it is once they get a set of mounts to bolt to the LS to get the secondary mount location into the same place as a SBC, from there it's just bolting it in. I just did it in two sentences, so that leaves 143 and 15/16th pages left for particulars!
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Yes, the Euro Panels are sidemarker free. They have a different P/N from JDM and what is on these for Germany. I can't see the difference (that I remember offhand) from what I have on my 2/2, but it's probably something in the bumper recess, or in the connection near the roof---the stiffeners that are inside. I'll know when I peel mine off I guess.
Oooh, 70's sunroof. There is a welded panel repair that I saw done for $300 on Gearhead's car. He did the gob-job weld, and the body shop heat worked and srunk his warpage back to skimcoat smoooooth. That they fixed his warpage (had bondo almost 1/2" thick I think!!!) was what got me to take the next car there to fix the 'goat damage'. They fixed mine for slightly more than Gearheads. He got a special deal since he knew the guys, but I didn't feel it was unreasonable. I've done roofs before, screw that! If I were to do it again, I wouldn't do the pinchweld replacement method. I'd cut close to the curve near the perimiter, and weld on that point instead of the center of the roof. It's stronger, less prone to warp, and easier for me to longboard back to a proper curve without any waves. Plus it doesn't buckle when I start bearing down with the quadratic sander like it does in the middle of the roof!
The new MIG's do wonderful thin metal welding in stitch mode. You just need the other roof for the patch panel. Doing a flanged lap weld and then grinding off the excess underneath is also possible as amerpage can be lower and the blowthrough propensity of a butt weld is minimized. But you got to have that flanger! Most body shops will have that capability.
I'll do most anything on the car, but when it comes to the roof, I got better things to do! LOL I can do it, but if Ican pay someone to have it done in a day---LET EM! If I had competent help for the shrinking procedure I might do it...but that shrinking is a PITA and nobody wants to be 'dolly boy' inside the car any more!
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Agreed, not the same. With the stuff you can get form Tabco, why go through the bother of 'harvesting' old sheetmetal from another car anyway?
Seems like making work. It's one thing if it's not available. But if it is available, why bother with the extra work for an inferior compromise?
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One of the primary reason they are 'wicked rare' is that total JDM production of the S30 and S31 Series Vehicles from 1969 to 1977 was only about 78,000 units.
This is about equivalent to the Export production number of units sent to the North American Market in 1974.
A Fairlady Z is about as rare as a 1974 North American 260Z as a general marque.
TO nail down a particular year, there is nothing except for 'specials' they did like the ZAP Z and the Black Pearl that rivals any individual year of Fairlady Prodution number. Some years they only produced little over 1000 cars, others 10K+.
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looking to have mine re-roofed about how much I'm I looking at?
I'm thinking about 500 is that far off?
thanks
Parts and finishing materials plus 6-8 hours depending on what they are doing. Totally dependent on the shops labor rate. At even $50 an hour you're looking at that much in labor.
Many roof problems are the result of stretched metal. Really, in many cases a good body man can shrink and work the creases and divots out in half the time a Re-Roof would require. Seriously, if someone sat in the middle of your roof (er, or goats decided to climb atop it because it was their hill') the damage could be repaired in 3-4 hours doing metal work and never have to mess with removing a windshield to do the pinchweld under the gasket.
And that's for a good body place...not a 'sound deadening bondo slatherer' roof repair job. I was shocked to find out they could actually repair it properly quicker and cheaper than doing a total reskin on the roof!
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The operation of installing the seats is what determines what valve you use. Simply buying L28 seats (hardened) and having them installed already gives you the larger valve seating area you want anway. By using stock parts you get the 'performance upgrade' for the exact same price of installing something you were going to have to install anyway!
In other words, since you are replacing the seats with hardened units anyway, you may as well install the larger seats for the L28 valves and get the increased dividend of better flow at the same time. The only associated cost is buying different valves.
And if you are installing NEW seats, it's false economy to try and re-use old valves! They would be getting new items installed anyway, regardless of which size seat you chose...
Porting would be affected by which seats you chose as well, as larger seats allow for more bowl work.
Check your head closely for corrosion. Nothing sucks more than having a head ruined by a corrosion perforation into a chamber or port after 95% of the work is done to it... Then you end up finding a heliarc welder and getting really friendly with it's operator to salvage all the money you put into the head. E31's are old, and usually the most corroded of the cores out there. Check VERY closely.
The E88 is a popular alternative if you have one available. They were available new (bare) till a few years ago, so corrosion is not an issue on them.
One day Paul...one day I'll scan those receipts and send them to you...
I know where they are. Honest!
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Probably, but I know where I can get a Bridgeport locally.
I don't want to go back to Alabama if I don't have to!
When the Transporter from Star Trek comes into being, I can zap equipment from here to there, and this whole conversation will become anachronistic!
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I hear "Fish" aren't "Fish" in the land of Oz any longer. I hear they are "Water Kittens" and that "Fishing" is now "Water Kitten Hunting"...
Firing a gun from a motor vehicle is a felony in most places nowadays.
My my, how times have changed!
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Gotta see it!
The reading of the will is priceless! Talk about having the last word.
Other than that, my kid kept nudging me throughout the movie. Apparently I've used similar phraseology towards him and have a similar intolerance in regards to todays youths...
And all this time I thought he wasn't listening!
I can believe it was filmed in Michigan. Been there, seen that! LOL
Z Race Products
in Non Tech Board
Posted
"Shortly"
Ahhh, you have great faith in Post Australia!
I have has simple T-Shirts sent first class take months to arrive in metro Melbourne. Things coming to the states from Oz seem to be on a regular schedule. But even airmail down under seems to be on the slow boat every time I send stuff!
Brisbane is like...the sticks, eh? It may take longer to get there then Melbourne!
LOL
Cheers, post photos when all's installed.