Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Hyuri has the family concept down. You can put most anything into anything as long as it's in the same family.
You can't put a Detroit 4-71 into a Datsun 1200 Truck, they won't pass it. But it flies on the salt! LOL
The Diesel Option is also correct. You can do a diesel conversion and pretty much duck everything but a smoke check.
Importing a current-technology BMW Turbodiesel would make for a nice running and high-mileage capable Z! That 2.0 Turbodiesel in Frank280ZX's car was pumping over 325 ft-lbs of torque and something like 215HP when it was finished with the chip and boost upgrade (188 and something like 288ft-lbs of torque with just the chip and stock boost!) That would make a Z scoot. Pushed that M3 (320) to over 250kph! Quiet and efficient. Close to 40mpg in some cases.
I'd do it. Hell, I still got to get up to Ray's place to pick up his diesel conversion cast-off stuff for my 280Z conversion for the commuter Z. A 280Z with an LD28 and Air Conditioning...
Though, frankly, I'm thinking a 280ZX with power steering, automatic, and A/C could be a nice conversion to diesel as well. If only I could get the fuel pump and turbo bits for the LD28T, I'd go THAT route and be happy happy happy!
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My only dislike was its ugly, iridescent, fire fly green color.
Grey Matter has a tendency to mute that effect once it's all over the device after impact...
Bad Taste? I'm no Charley Tuna and never claimed to be... and it's full moon and past midnight and the rum is flowing. I blame the rum for my comment. That's it, it's the rum...
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You only had a week in UAE? I ended up there (er... BuHasa, actually....) for six weeks. It was nice to be awake during the meetings the first three days. The battle wasn't lag causing me to doze off... Not having a damned thing to do other than watch aljazeera TV in the camp caused tryptophanic overdose effects! That, and walking 5km daily in 48C heat.
Mad Dogs and Tony D....
I tried to explain that concept 'pre-lag' to a guy I worked with before he took a flight to Guam. He brushed me off saying he had 'been to Guam before!'
Yeah, aboard ship! Kinda a different time zone thing...
He ended up being finished with the job before noon the first day he was there. So he goes back to the hotel room, and laysg down on the bed in his hotel room to watch a movie before he left for the airport. This was 11AM...
"Next thing I knew, it was 2AM and I find out there's not another flight for two days!"
Yeah...been to Guam before. Riiight! Gotcha bud! LOL
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thesamba.com should be able to point you in the right direction.
Though a lot of the VW forums are populated by Honda-esque flamers...beware!
The Samba guys are nice and what you would expect from people in Microbusses...what was that skib said???
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The AEM and Autometer themocouples are pretty bulky so after a bit of searching a 1/8 npt thermocouple was found and a really slick and small 0-5v adaptor was found to allow the EGT`s to be dattalogged.
"Really Slick and Small 0-5V Adaptor?"
Puke info, dude! I didn't see it in the three links, and that sounds like something I can add to my Megasquirt!!!
Daeron, good photo, it does show exactly what I was saying about 1280 vs 1320, I wasn't saying you were contradictory.
At least this time!
But back on that 0-5 vdc adaptor.... That in conjunction with the datalog package for the old spare laptop would make some nice data acquisition for some projects that are coming up!
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I don't expect anyone to give me any sort of break. ... I don't expect a damn thing. ... If you can show me where I can get 2+2 panels for $40 more than TABCO, please do.
Jeezsus, dude. I did EXACTLY that! You simply couldn't comprehend the math. Maybe with three more degrees you will be able to comprehend that...
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Argh, that means editing and posting, doesn't it.
I want to go home!
Tell ya what...
I'm probably going to Kuwait in the next two days and will have plenty of time to fiddle with this photoshop crap and get them up. I already screenshotted N, S, E, & W views, which I couldn't do at the other sites...
So I'll annotate appropriately and post in a couple of days!
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Likely they will be competing against our team at Reno-Fernley in May....so I'll watch and see.
We are going it alone, based on my purchase of SIX Z-Cars in mid 2006 for the grand total of $500 (one of which has already been sacrificed at the altar of Hapless of the Holidays Thunderhill LeMons 2006).
Parts sales alone have made this a truly no-cost event as far as the race car goes.
Now the safety items? Tires, Brakes, Harness.... That's probably damn near three times what the three cars cost.
The only saving grace is that three of them are an identical 77 280Z, and almost EVERYTHING that was safety-related and cost us money was transferrable to the next chassis. Hell, we still got a 280ZX out ofthe deal that some people saw running at MSA with Frank280ZX driving! It's a LeMons canidate as well, but I kinda gave it to Frank. It's nice that the roll hopp in the S30 and S130 are interchangable...
It didn't hurt scrap prices spiked to nearly 300$ a ton to dispose of the old wrecked carcass earlier this year! Still several left to consume...
And parts sales of fenders differentials, etc have financed a good portion of the rest. I actually had an offer of $1500 for one of the cars AS IS WHERE IS... I think I should have jumped at that and painted one of the other cars with the proceeds. But trying to segregate my accounts gets difficult with different cars sucking revenue streams all their own!
So yeah the car may be relatively cheap...But sleeping accomodations, GAS, the tow rig, etc etc etc...
Don't think this is a 'no bucks' option. In terms of racing dollars, running your local Auto X is FAR cheaper.
But as far as true enduro racing goes...this is about as cheap as you can get it!
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Worthless without ratios known.
Get the ratios sorted out by counting revolutions, and then you will know what it is, wether it's a Z 'Sports Option' part (in reality, just a JDM application for a truck or some other vehicle) or a Roadster unit, or someting with truly interesting gearsets.
They are all listed in the old Nissan Motorsports Catalog, and you can determine it from there.
Biggest thing would be to determine if fifth is overdrive or direct-drive. That will peak interest immediately as it separates the wide ratio boxes to some more race-specific close ratio gearsets.
P&PG helps as well in eliciting information and constructive commentary.
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The laminate in between the layers can do strange things if it has 'shrunk' over time. Like curl back when cut.
The glass simply adheres to the laminate substrate.
Cut a tightly stretched piece of saran wrap on the top of a glass...the edges curl upwards slightly. Imagine if the tension was uneven and you had little pieces of glass firmly adhered to one side and not the other---it curves where it can relieve the tension.
It's not like a bullet through metal where plastic deformation occurs. It gets stretched, then relaxed...somewhat. Follow?
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The MSN site gives a nice clear view of my yard---though somewhat dated. There are only 19 Z's visible. Definately pre 2006!
Though I now know where my neighbor parks the Forklift I sold him!
I'll admit, this an Google Earth changed the way I park cars in the back yard. Note I said 'Visible' above.
I'm finding good old trees and shadows play tricks on the electric eye and I've altered parking plans accordingly.
Soon, I suspeect I'll be putting up netting like over Douglas Aircraft during WWII to prevent the surveilance!
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I'm with Tim on this last point. What you want is a thermal barrier, not a heat disbursing agent.
The thick ceramic coatings hold the heat IN the components and PREVENT transfer to others. And similarly they can act as barriers to other sources of radiant heat.
This was why I did the Corvair Experiment, and mentioned it above. The difference between the FLAT WHITE VHT on the tubes and the FLAT BLACK on the tubes led me to believe the color DOES make a difference in heat rejection/absorption. Coating the same tubes, in the same engine, in the same car flat black resulted in a 10 degree INCREASE from the baseline oil temperature, compared to a 15 degree DECREASE when painted flat white in the exact same area.
There are a lot of guys who coat the exhaust to keep it looking decent (er...JeffP) but in terms of thermal transmission it probably isn't the thing you want. For that the thick ceramic coatings like JetHot seem to be the ticket. I know you don't burn nearly as bad when you stupidly lay the back of your hand into a Jet-Hot Silver header while the engine is running compared to an uncoated one!
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So you are absolutely certain that you have a '69-'71 FS5C71-A, never sold on a Z in the U.S., monkey motion 5 speed transmission that looks exactly like this?
Roadster Transmission, anybody?
I mean, S30-6225 has one, but it's a Fairlady Z...
Doesn't mean they didn't come in by the containerload from JDM parts brokers in the 80's...
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That gauge is suitable for TIT TOT readout only. Someplace where you are looking for a 400 degree difference in steady-state loading.
Look at Aircraft Spruces "Engine Analyzers" with 6 EGTs, plus TIT and TOT...they alert you to hot pairs, which cylinders come to temp first, you can set a differential alarm.
Pricey, but if you are into analysis longterm (they can datalog onboard for two+ hours in some cases!) this is the thing you want.
As for Analog---you show me how you will see 1280 and 1320 on that short sweep.... Not happening. For analysis you want hard numbers and a digital readout. It's not long term, it's developmental.
I have one of those very gauges, and as I recalled, that gauge is even specified for TIT / TOT. I'm not a fan of the short-sweep Westach instruments. I've had a CHT gauge on #3 cylinder of the my VW Microbus since 1982 and while it's nice to look at the resolution SUCKS! I'd much rather have a stepper motor controlled Defigauge with a 270 degree sweep.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/ei-engineanalyzer3.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/westcombos6.php
I used one of these initially, but got sick of the Westech display/resolution quality, so I substituted a Digital EGT Gauge and used it with their thermocouples and rotary switch and was MUCH happier. For $280 it's not bad, but you can buy the individual components and use a much better digital K Type 'universal' thermocouple reader (IF YOU HAVE A DIGITAL MULTIMETER YOU CAN USE THAT!!!) and you will get much better empirical results from the readouts. The 100ms scan rate on my Fluke updates WAY faster than the analog gauge can (especially after switching the rotary dial!), with FAR better resolution! Down to .1 degree at the lower temps.
You can use this setup to then check radiator in and out temperatures.
Turbo inlet and discharge air temperatures.
Oil cooler bypass temperatures.
Once you have the rotary switch, and a good digital readout, you can buy thin thermocouples to stick just about ANYWHERE you want to quantify heat transfer efficiency. You can ready CHT on each spark plug with it with the right adapter rings for the plugs...
For the cost it can be a VERY versatile tool.
To be honest I stole mine from Uncle Sugar while doing a 500 hour on a Lycoming...just comdemned it and took it home. I'm not porud. For $647.43 a month, I figured I was probably saving someone's life removing it and putting a fresh one into the airframe.
Yeah, that's it!
Just as an aside here....which gauge do you think is going to get second billing for drivers eyepath in the Turbo Bonneville Car?
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Have you checked out a company called Sermatech Airfoil Management?
I believe they have offices in UK.
The shop here in Los Angeles takes orders at the will call counter for ceramic coating. They are a jet engine parts coating/machining operation, so their stuff is 'the real deal'---and at least here the guys with Cobras and all the local NHRA/IHRA guys have their headers and brake discs treated there.
Tech-Line is out of Temecula (20 minutes from my house!) and they make good coatings as well. I used their abradable coating on blower rotors, etc...
Aerospace Jet Engine Coatings is what you want to search out for these components. The thermal barrier stuff on the intake manifold is more open to application as the base metal isn't getting hot. Hell, white paint there could help underneath. Simply painting the pushrod tubes on a Corvair with VHT Ceramic Paint in white where the head cooling airflow goes across them can reduce the sump oil temperature almost 20 degrees!
Barriers have come a long way since 1979 when I did those tests to check if Mr. Finch was B.S.'ing me or not!
For turbo manifolds, the 2000 degree stuff is what you want, period. Jeff had used some other coatings that flaked from dyno time alone. And he's tuning for EGT's that were considerably less than 1685F that some advocated!
Matter of fact, when we were straightening his SFP Header, we had the center section of the piping to yellow-white heat and that only resulted in minimal coating damage that was localized to where the flame was actually hitting the surface.
FWIW, that TURBOX looks like stuff I'd consider if you want something other than black.
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Are you sure the WRX unit is an R160?
The newest US Spec STi versions have a helical R180, and the JDM had them a couple of years prior to us getting them here.
Come to think of it, the WRX's may have had R180's and the new STi has a Helical R200. I forget.
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Glad to see you got the zip tie on the front fork to measure how much travel your using.
I say it's to hold a super secret NOS bottle line against the shock because he hasn't had the new upper shock housing machined to properly conceal it yet...
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Testing the O2 out of each cylinder is kind of advanced tuning.
For what you are after I think you won't need it.
Realistically, a good EGT Probe and scanner like they use in light aircraft (Aircraft Spruce has them for Cessnas that run on 13.8VDC...) can monitor and give you a graphic readout of individual cylinder temperatures and differential.
Before O2 sensors were commonly available, that was THE way to tune the mixture and test airflow through each cylinder.
If you can see less than 25 degrees differential cylinder-to-cylinder during a steady load (like climbing a tall hill in 4th gear at 3/4 throttle or WOT...your airflow is balanced and no tweaking of your horns would be required.
The probes and kits for simple rotary switch setups for EGT reading are available pretty reasonably (far less cost than the aircraft stuff) and if you have a buddy reading and writing numbers as he flips the switch from cylinder to cylinder you will get a darned good idea of variation.
Six probes, leads, rotary switch and Decently-Sized DIGITAL READOUT (don't even WASTE your time with an analog gauge in this application if you are serious about analysis, you need ACCURATE numbers like 1285F versus 1320F which on most analog gauges will be almost identical...)
The holes in your header would be less than 1/8" and the probes would go in VERY close to the mating flange of the head---you could even get longer thermocouples and put them so they go into the exhaust port and get even closer to the exhaust valve for even more accurate readings. There is an integrated thermocouple/stainless steel hose clamp arrangement that lets you drill the small holes in the header, then install the assembly over the hole tightenting the hose clamp to seal the whole thing back up again for driving. Small holes are good. I like small holes.
You would be amazed to see what misfires are occurring and can be read with such a 'primitive' setup.
Sequential? Let's not even go there!
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Well, it's 12:10 so technically it's not 1AM, but I'm still here.
First time I've brought the Laptop home in a while.
My excuse is I may have to fly to Kuwait either tomorrow or Saturday so this is what I consider 'pre-lagging' so I'm awake when I land and don't go through the normal lag.
Whenever possible, Hybrid Z is my preferred Pre-Lag Travel Aid.
They should advertise themselves as such!
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I like it, mostly because its back to the reason Zs became popular in the first place, value, If your going to buy a new car and have small budget it seams like a great choice.
By using the CPI Calculator, a car that sold for $3360 in 1970 would sell for just under $19,000 today.
Were it priced at $19,000 I'd consider the above comment valid.
At almost 2X that price (find one for $29,930) I'd not consider 'value' one of it's highpoints.
Even at dealer inflated pricing of 1970, the price is still high.
I mean, a $5000 240Z in 1970 would be pricing adjusted to only $27,374 today!The car is selling for close to 5X what cost of production is...I mean, give a guy a break!
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There are elements to each side of the argument.
The CHP is getting training to notice FMIC's on Hondas as 'modifications' and probable cause for a stop.
Thing is they are also being told gauge pods on the A Pillar, Aftermarket Wheels, and a lowered ride height are also reasons for probable cause to stop and inspect.
Got a tail light out? Then they got you no matter what.
But as far as an L28ET 'looking stock and passing a roadside inspection' that's wrong as well.
They will check the VIN plate in the engine compartment, and compare it to the Block Serial Number. If they don't match, and the swap has not been registered with the DMV (as required by the applicable section of the CVC) then it's an 'illegal engine change' and subjects your car for immediate impound.
That little impound/crushing incident out in Moreno Valley last year happened less than 7 miles from my house, and that is exactly what they did: Compared VIN to records of Engine S/N's recorded to that VIN. That is what the cops kept referring to as 'illegal engines'.
Fixit? Huh huh huh... not hardly. They send you to the referee for verification of the smog compliant status of your vehicle.
I got news, there are NO EXEMPT VEHICLES in private hands (generally speaking) when it comes to smog. The only thing you are exempt from is biannual testing. You are still required to comply with emissions requirements, even though you don't have to test.
Any car may be commanded to appear at a designated referee station or test-only station at any time. It's called 'random out-of-cycle compliance check'. And the roadside check/referrals? No exemption from them either.
The CHP has had that authority since at least 1954. It's nothing new.
So many internet myths being bantered about...what shall we do???
Oh, and highest unintercooled boost I ran on my 73 before getting an intercooler was 21psi. Just to make my thread on-topic.
Somewhat.
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JeffP used the JetHot 2000 Blue, and I can personally attest he's had that baby glowing pink (see his website!) without any flaking issues.
George, if you are considering coating and not running the heatshield, you may want to Shiny Silver Cermacoating at least the bottom of the intake manifold to prevent heat transfer to it.
If you do the whole thing, it likely won't cost considerably more, and will make the outside a nice shiny uniform color. Make sure they use the silicone plugs on the threaded holes so you don't have to chase the threads and risk chipping the coating.
Also, if you are considering altering the intake you can use the propane or MAPP gas torch aluminium brazing sticks Lumiweld to do the patching' filling, recontouring and then have it coated and nobody will know the difference once that's done!
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Its a 240z five speed a- type because its not a borge warner trans the case looks like a early 240z case but there's a fifth gear and there short im doing 60 at almost 3k in fifth. I only ask because i mite sell my l28et and the trans to do a rb or sr engine in my car. If u know someone that mite be intrested in buying just point them to me.
Huh?
This bodes not well...
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So your saying I can spend three times the money and six times the effort for replacement panels? Sign me up! ... My car needs new rockers, doglegs, the works. I have zero experience welding or with major body work. Whole replacement panels would be nice, even if they cost a bit more. But not 3X more, as is the case with replacement frame rails.
Alas, the demise of public education.
It costs you 33% more than what you would buy for a coupe. Not 3X as much.
(restrain myself....)
If you don't have welding knowledge, or experience, then complete panels wouldn't do you any good either, as they have to be welded in...
The effort is not that great, it's a matter of squarely sectioning the rocker and splicing it in the middle of the coupe panel, then installing it. If it takes 1/2 hour of labor per side, I'd be surprised. Same for the dogleg. It takes FAR more than that to install them, it's not '6X the effort'...if you aren't willing to work at it, then maybe car restoration is not in your cards. It takes a special kind of person to do it. If your car 'needs' rockers, doglegs, the works I'd suggest getting another chassis and starting on it, as there are plenty out there in great rustfree condition in the southwest. It will be FAR cheaper than repairing it.
By my take on it 33% is 'a little bit more work' relatively speaking and the time any body shop would charge for massaging panels after installation wouldn't be any more extreme for the sectioned panels than for some that are 'relatively close' as the Tabco parts.
Then again, I have complete Nissan Rockers for a 2+2, as well as Eurospec complete Quarter Panels just waiting for my 76 Fairlady Z 2/2 restoration. Now you want a rare bird, check out production numbers on 73-77 Fairlady Z 2/2's. Total Fairlady Z Production 69-77 was 78,000 or thereabouts. There were more 260Z's sent to the North American Market in one year than almost 10 years of Fairlady Production. And 2/2's were a very small percentage of that. One of the 'rarest of the rare'---far more so than any of the LHD examples.
If you think 33% more than what Tabco charges for repop stuff is unreasonable (Or 6X what Tabco is totally out of this world and unreasonable...) don't even ASK or CONTEMPLATE what those babies would cost you to get from my hands.
The shipping alone exceeds your 6X criteria.
For one quarter panel.Matter of fact, I have had US Spec 2+2's given to me because the people didn't want them around after they got the engine out. And I've bought nice examples for less than the Quarter Panel cost to ship from Europe (from a German Collector's Stash....)
And as for 'how many 2+2's do you see... One on my Eastern Driveway, One in my Western Driveway (RHD Fairlady Z 2/2-S Model), One behind my storage container (RHD Fairlady Z 2/2-L Model), One under the pepper trees in the SE corner of my property, and Four under the pepper trees on the western middle portion of my property.
4 S30's and 4 S130's...
Oh, and one in the Race Trailer.
It's the fastest F/PRO car on record at Bonneville and El Mirage.
Yeah, it would be 'nice' to have quality parts available, but quality and cheap?
Pick one.
I mean, a $5000 240Z in 1970 would be pricing adjusted to only $27,374 today!
For one quarter panel.
Turbo Intake Plenum
in Fuel Delivery
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You got to wonder how this happens.
I mean, having production jobs to do that pay big money is one thing.
But if you're scheduled into the production slot, the time frame shouldn't be that difficult to pin down.
Sometimes (especially with dedicated engine shops) I got to wonder how they set priorities. A lot of times the places I see with a tag and tracking system are the places that get me the parts on time and don't make excuses.
The guys that take in the parts and set it on a shelf and write a tag and stick the tag in a box...or on the desk...or under the part...
Those places seem to sit on things for months at a time. ADDHD. Whomever comes in when they are setting up machines and says 'I need this today' or 'I need this quick' gets the stuff put on the machine and away they go.
I hope those guys are paying out the butt and the machinist is raking in premium charges to make it worthwhile to keep shelving my project...
That's what I usually tell them when I show up and ask for the delayed discount for being so understanding. I got six flywheels lightened for about $10 each after letting them sit for six months someplace and then just showing up. "You said they would be done five and a half months ago! I figured I wasn't in a hurry, but DAMN dude! I didn't need them in a hurry THEN... BUT I DO NOW!"
Done the next day at 7AM. But damn!
Anybody want to buy a Bridgeport and go into business? LOL