Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Will that rubber doughnut tailshaft connector at the back of the gearbox stand up to the stress which will be involved?
When Porsche Turbocharged the 917, none of the currently available CV joints would handle the torque an 1100HP 5 Liter Flat-12 would put out, so they devised a novel solution for the axles: tub within a tube using rubber as a bonding agent between them to take up both torsional loads, as well as axle axial length change.
To this day, smaller Formula Cars run similar doughnuts on their Halibrand Gearboxes to the axles, which incidentally are the same couplings sold for coupling 200HP Sullair Screw Compressors to their Electric Motors.
Not only is the 280ZX lighter than the M5 it once was in, the traction control likely will not be incorporated so likely the tires will slip well before the driveshaft cou0pling experiences anything near failure stresses.
If it was good enough on an M5 (and for the current generations of 240SX's as well...) it should handle service in a ZX with aplomb.
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I retrofitted my D21 pickup with bi xenon HID's, using H4 retrofit housings for a Z31 (wich upgrades them to the H4 bulbs) and tossing the H4 bulbs and using a H4 type HID bulb, and I didn't have to deal with those goofy looking projector units. It was all pretty much all plug and play, and I'm going to do the same thing to my S30 (except with the round H4 retrofit housings obviously) when it is closer to getting back on the road... I'll take pictures.
cheers
Ryan~
Why go through all that fuss for a D21? They were available with H4 aerodynamic housings factory equipped, and on higher-end models they have an HID with In-Cab filament adjustment (that little black finisher in the instrument panel left of the steering wheel and below the in-dash vent...)
Can't get much more plug-n-play than factory components for the application!
On an aside, John at H4 Lights would probably point out of the recall of all H4/HID conversion kits for road usage some time ago. Seems people were upset with other people being able to see better at night without getting a headache, and the DOT repealed the section allowing them for road use. Cost some distributors big money when they were caught sitting on inventory, and even more if they couldn't tell the Feds where the missing units went from their inventory.
Dealing with lighting can be a serious matter. Especially if you are in Virginia... Don't even ask.
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Your balance tube has a port to each runner, and the balance tube is 1/2 I.D., it should be fine.
My Mikuini Manifold has 1/4" runners going to a 3/8" balance line, with the brakes hooked up at the end of that! Works fine.
Initial bypass for idle speed is what you need the individual connections for, from a common metered source. The IAC is for compensation above the initial set idle speed. Remember you want to be idling with all throttle plates closed, making the vacuum signal the strongest it can be in the balance log for a good MAP resolution.
So does the bonneville car with the IAC at one end, ducted similarly.
If you were ONLY letting air into #6 runner (like on the mikuini manifold for the brakes) then yes, there would be an issue. The only cylinder getting any airflow would be #6. By dumping it in the balance tube...it gets, er....balanced to the others by the action mentioned above in the previous post.
Remember there will be six cylinders sucking hard on that balance tube, when the throttles crack even a little bit it ceases to be much of anything more than something to look at and add weight. At idle, the balance tube makes all the air go to whatever individual cylinder is sucking hardest at that particular moment---which is why you want the 1/2" I.D....lets stuff move freely. And by making a small hole into the individual runner, you dampen the pulsations to the MAP sensor at the other end of the log through capacitance.
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Cel Phone distracted him you say?
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Anything for a 2+2. Especially doglegs and rockers.
2+2 doglegs and rockers...hell, anything rearward of the windshield!
Though, Honestly, you can make a pair of 2+2 rockers from three coupe rockers by sectioning out the center of the third piece and extending the other two...
Similarly doglegs can be done in similar fashion, but it's a bit more involved.
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When mega tune shows pulse width, does that necessarily mean that the injectors are firing?
NO!
It means there is a signal from the ECU for them to fire---to verify the injectors are actually receiving that signal, you have to use a VOM, noid light, or maybe even stick a screwdriver or mechanic's stethescope to the injector bodies and see if you can hear them 'clicking' open and closed.
If you don't, then the problem is in the wiring between the ECU sending the signal, and the Injectors (ECU is the injector's ground path...) or the power circuit to the "+" side of the injector connections.
Polarity technically matters, but it should cycle with the connections reversed---it just won't work 'properly' the car can run with reverse polarity solenoids, just maybe not well.
My guess is since the plugs are dry, either hte injectors are not opening or you have pulsewidth too low. The suggestion to spray ether (starting fluid) in the inlet is a good one---it tells you that your spark indeed is happening at the right time to roll the engine. And narrows it to 'fuel delivery' which I think is the point you have reached at this point.
The problems like this generally end up being wiring related, and this would be my bet here as well.
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To differentiate between lifter tick and rod knock simply disconnect random plug wires and note if the 'tick' goes away. Rods #1 and 5 usually are the culprit, disconnect them both and start the engine. If there is no load on the rod it won't tick.
0 degrees is interesting, what is the MAXIMUM temperature you are obtaining? It may indeed call for a 5W oil. Windchill is irrelevant to mechnical items, do don't pay any attention to that at all. Ambient temperature is what matters for the oil.
It could be that the bottom end is knocking waiting to get lubed up due to a weak oiling system. A good mechanical gauge will tell you that.
The FSM has a table which shows what weight oil to use. Where I'm at, I get by with straight weight 30 in the winter months, and 40 in the summer. I don't like Multi-Vis, and don't use it unless I'm forced.
The Bonneville Car runs straight 50 wt and we prelube before start, so it's different.
You could try bottowing an 'accusump' and prelube similarly to see if the doesn't rattle on startup.
Seems to me you are rushing to fix an ''item'' that may not really be an issue at all. But then, that's me.
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The vent lines are grossly oversized for what they need to be. I have replaced several vent hose setups using 8 and 10mm lines aas opposed to the factory 15mm lines.
I use nylon barbed adapters to change from one size to the other at or near the tank.
This allows you to use as little '5/8"' Gasoline Vapor hose (expensive) as possible, substituting normal carburetted fuel line in 3/8" or 1/4" to do the venting. This has worked well. All you need to do is make sure the high points on the tank all have a clear unobstructed vent. Many times I have dropped a tank and found those 5/8" heater hose blockoff caps on there! If those high point vents are obstructed then you get a BIG air bubble at the top of the tank and will not be able to get a good fill to full capacity. The smaller lines are easy to route, and in some cases you can fit them all through one opening in the deck out back, allowing you to 'cap' the other ones in the rear of the car's decking with the aforementioned heater hose cap---positive seal against exhaust fuem entrance!
I use a JDM filler neck on one of my cars...it simply had a 1/4" dump behind the right rear wheel for any gasoline expansion. It's sooooo non-evap compliant! Actually, putting a later mode EVAP cannister back there, or one from a Geo Metro (really small one!) would work on the one where I made that high point loop and K&N filter setup. I just have run out of stock on Geo EVAP cannisters. They fit nicely in the wheel well of a 260 to 'clean up' the engine bay as well...keeping us all green and clean and happy long-term.
The tank needs to be vented to allow for filling (as you have experienced) and to prevent the tank filler and stuch from being sucked down like a crushed beer can during long highway runs where the fuel level changes considerably. I've seen filler necks sucked down FLAT from electric pumps pulling fuel out of the tank! You need some sort of vent for the system to function properly. Those that say otherwise, or claim to not have one usually have vent hoses so rotted they can't hold any pressure in the tank if they tried! They have an uncontrolled vent and just don't know it. You need an external vent to accomplish this. The venting of the top of the tank to the filler neck will allow complete filling, but will not accomodate for fuel expansion and the draw that happens whiledriving down the road---with a filler neck high-point venting, you would still need an external vent for makeup air and to allow for offgassing. Venting to a small EVAP cannister would prevent the 'raw gas smell' after shutdown if all is corked up properly.
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Let's put some numbers up on what a stock manifold sacrifices in the way of flow, shall we?
JeffP had 2XXCFM through the intake port, when matched with a 44mm Cannon Manifold suitably ported by B.C. Gerolamy.
This same port, when mated to a stock manifold which had been Extrude-Honed to a mirror finish and had a slight 'anti-reversionary' lip (manifold smaller than port in the head) flowed 30CFM less.
This was at 25" Hg.
Imagine what that number is when under pressure. Vacuum pressure drop over an orifice is one thing, the pressure drop over that same orifice can be an astounding number. What it translates to is much more flow at much less observed pressure on the boost gauge in the plenum.
8psi at, say 220CFM is a LOT different Pounds Per Hour number than 8psi at say 180CFM.
And the pounds per hour is what ultimately will determine what horsepower you will achieve.
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These parts are almost universal in application. BMW AFM's are available that work great as AFMs on 3 liter conversions, TPS is TPS as long as the connector attaches and the contacts are good, most of the issues that arise are from pins in the wrong place on one make compared with another.
Having a pin removal tool makes moving your harness pins around super simple. I have grafted Toyota AFM connectors onto Z harnesses for years becuase they have gold plated contacts.... I have been a 'pin cannibal' from Toyota Supras for about as long.
Check out the Bosch stuff in Volvos/BMW/Mercedes as well, Tefzel insulated wires, much better rubber on the backside boots, quick release injector clips.
My personal favorite is the old BMW and VW TPS's...which literally are two old-fashioned MicroSwitches set up on brackets with a cam on the throttle shaft. They were FAR easier to adjust than the new-improved 'Combi Switch' in the little black box.
Those sealed microswitches were bulletproof in terms of function. And they lasted forever. Next time you find an old 68 VW Type 3 in the junkyard, check out the TPS setup, I'll lay money the switches still work flawlessly after 40 years! The only problem we ever had with them was when ham-fisted mechanics bent the brackets during careless maintenance. The MAP sensor on that car was the size of the small Rolling-Rock Shorty Cans! Manually calibrated as well... Ahhh, those were the days!
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What is this 'rust' you guys keep referring to?
Muahahahhaaha!
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My personal favorite: pack it away and don't get mad about it.
One day, you will run across the guy.
It's worked for me several times over the years. Out of the blue someone has dealings with my company and I'm in a position to either help or hinder the situation. At which time I usually don't help it along much. I got screwed out of close to $10,000 in lawyers fees over someone suing me.
Later on, less than two years later, I got the chance to call on his business 'as the authorised factory representative in the territory' for an inspection of equipment he was trying to broker to us. About $50,000 worth.
Not doing anything unethical, I simply said I had to come inspect the equipment on his site. He wouldn't let me on site to do it. He tried to circumvent me and sell direct to the corporate offices. I simply sent photos from 'over the fence' of what he was selling....which immediately killed the deal.
So yeah, he cost me $10K in a nusiance lawsuit. He also didn't sell his scrap to us in a one-time good deal (which is his specialty, customers burned thussly never come back, but 'he's got his'!) and lost out on $50K.
And that led into him being decertified as a rep for our company as well, loosing even MORE income from those sales (which I took direct!)
Funny thing was, when I took those companies direct as a Factory Rep, he didn't litigate against me. Perhaps litigating against a 4 Billion Dollar Company wasn't to his liking. Especially since I 'won' the last one he brought for the same stuff.
Then again, you can always beat him to a pulp with American Hickory Baseball Bat and burn the evidence. There is a quick satisfaction in that as well. But is it worth it for $300? If it's principle, then yes.
So there's two quick options. One from two totally divergent schools of thought!
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Yeah I'm spoiled, I can drive by Diest or Crow and pick up new harnesses. And custom stuff can be sewen while-I-wait if the day is slow...
And for the Cost of Crow harnesses new...it's almost a no-brainer!
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Useless knowledge from 'The Vault'...
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All the S30's have a drain plug. If you put in 'too much gas' you can always drain it back out and use it again.
FYI, you are FAR BETTER OFF completely filling a tank and using Sta-Bil fuel treatment for a long term car than leaving it half full or totally empty.
You will rust like crazy from condensation in the tank. It costs $30 to fill the tank today...there will be less evaporative losses from the tank (cap the EVAP line and there will be nill loss and degradation for over a year if you have good sealed lines on the vapor hoses) full as opposed to less than topped off.
Unless you empty the tank completely and then post purge with dry air to completely remove all traces of water (and then maybe stick a desiccant sock in the filler neck) you will get rust in any tank that isn't near full.
Been there, done that. Got 30 in the back yard and always have 'lawnmowergas' when bringing one out of the back 40. The alternative is more costly than the initial $30 to fill the tank and let it sit for a couple of years rusting internally.
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You are better off just making a bracket near one of the horns to mount the IAT sensor for underhood ambient temperature compensation. If it's in the manifold it will heat soak, and the balance tube is not moving a lot of air as you mentioned, so it will be worse there.
Look at the larger ports in the TB, there should be something you can stick the fine-wire GM probe into the airstream without much ado. Like remachining one of the heaters on the top where the return spring bracket mounts. A simple block there with the appropriate holes to refix the bracket, and a hole to the top of the T/B's airstream would do nicely.
Have you checked out a 240SX for their Airbox Air Temp Sensor? It is VERY small, and mounts with two screws on a diamond shaped metal backing. Two wires to lead out. Spotface a flat flange mount just about anywhere on the body that will let the sensor poke through and you're in business. It's so small, I would almost bet you could hide it UNDER one of the metal heater bodies on the top of the TB and just have the wires and connector hanging out...
If you were into hiding things, that is. The flange on the 240SX sensor for the airbox has holes very close to some of the original thermostatic elements in the 73/74 air cleaners. If one was so inclined to use it in one of those...without a lot of hacking... (whistles innocently...)
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(note to self, 'still in machine shop four months later'...)
LOL
I saw the author post, and got excited!
Tease!
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Bump (Again)
What happened to the pictures?
Don't know, they are fine in the photo album at my house. I just looked at them again over Christmas...
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the stock 240Z return is 1/4", and is on the passenger side along with the feed. The other 5/16" line is on the driver side and goes to the top of the expansion tank above the gas filler.
Whether you use a surge tank or not, you still need a return. In fact, you need two returns with a surge tank, one back to the main tank, and on one back to the surge tank from the regulator.
Pete
Actually the stock 240 return line is 3/16", smaller than the 1/4" mentioned.
I used the vapor recovery line connected to a high point vent as return on my 73 EFI conversion. My tank venting was accomplished with a 'high loop' up near the vapor tank, and then vented through a small K&N filter outside of the cabin. The stock fuel feed line was used on the outlet of the pump from the surge tank, the stock tank pickup was used with the Bendex Style Ticker pump to fill the surge tank, with the bleed off the surge tank being bled back through the tank's 3/16" line as a high point 'bubble bleed'.
Later I incorporated the vapor line return line to the top of the surge tank, and then to the top of the main tank where it was before.
I had no issues with either setup.
The reason the stock return line always leaks is people think it's 1/4" and use the wrong line, and try simply clamping down the hose tightly. Use 3/16" line and it fits like it should and won't leak.
but if you use that small line it will overfuel at idle with close to 45-50psi in the rail because of the phenomenon Pete mentioned. Running it through the vapor line though was fine, same as in my 260.
I put the whole mess on an aluminum plate back by the tank, and used the factory mounting holes for the electric pump to mount it. Some spacers to move it off the frame and clear the moustache bar links and you can have a big mounting plate back there to mount everything.
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Realistically, if you have teh Bridgeport and one of those adjustable boring bars it's really a quick thing to do to open up the bore a smidge.
With the same Bridgeport, and a rotary table the tapered bore syndrome will get you all tied up thinking 'o.k. how much wall thickness is not enough?'
Packing Devcon Aluminum Putty into any low spots on the body is advisable before you start, if you're like me, anyways!
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I'm up to one as of this Christmas. A '74 2+2 260Z.
Oooooh, that's the one with the 3.36 Ratio R200 if you have the non-automatic version!
Those V-8 Guys like those differentials. That car will really come alive with a 3.70 diffy and a four speed, or early five speed and a 3.90. They are surprisingly quick when equipped thusly...ask the guy with the comparable model coupe who was a consistent second slower than me in the 1/4 about it...LOL
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As you can see Derek, you are almost up there with my daddy. The reason why you are not passed him is because he is my daddy and he's pretty cool. Does a lot of cool stuff yah know... However he hasn't built his own EFI system which was the real boost for you, otherwise such high approval ratings would not be possible.Also, DragonFly would be passed you, after all, he did balance his valve train. Daeron, you're up there because you helped me through my stroker build. TonyD, you're up with the big dogs too because you are the king of big dogs. Don't have any hard feelings about people beating you, just remember that I still love you.
I tried to make a MAP 3D graph thing in Excell but I failed big time, couldn't figure out what my third axis should be... I did however make my Love Graph kind of 3D here. I also added the minor axis lines for you accurate people.
You're doing awesome Derek!
Oh, that is funny as hell. I must have missed something while working this weekend. Was someone being amused by something I said??? I can't see that Draxquoted item elsewhere so I'm figuring someting must have gone away. I'm trying to figure out what I could have said to elicit that response... (no steaming, flaming, latent hate-PM's waiting in my inbox...)
It's good to know I'm loved. Even if it is man-love, according to the graph at least.
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I found these on Ebay ($10 for pair!). 48mm IDA stacks. Almost slide into throttle bodies. Too thin to turn down in a lathe.
But putting the TB in the lathe backwards (lathe jaws gripping 'out' to the bore) and trimming just a little out of the throat would let you shrink/press them into the bodies with some loctite and be done with it....and not have the hose look and clamps out front... Not that Tony would know anything about boring that damnable square bore to round in 73/74 Flat Tops....oh, you can do it on a Bridgeport with a rotary table and mill, or a simple boring bar once you find center of the bore...not that I've ever witnessed that being done or anything...snarfk!
XNKE is correct on the cowl, ths Japanese do it all the time as they are not confined with the Master-Vac and linkage being in the way of a reverse-mounted airbox.
The issue with longer horns is packaging them with proper clearane inside an air cleaner for proper flow. More clearance is needed meaning a fatter filter housing...or one with a 'dome' and open mesh element surrounding the mouth of the pipe.
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What happens is anything not sent to the North American Market gets tagged with 'JDM' or in some cases "Euro".. gawfk!
In reality we got very few permutations of badging that they got everywhere else in the world...
What should be more apt a descriptor is 'US MARKET' when discussing this stuff.
The block cover Monzster shows is on 'late model' L-Engines, and the plaastic cover which looks similar was used on the latest model Cedrics and others to keep the valvetrain quiet and keep heat transmission to levels less than a Mazak-Cast item. Same kind of thing happend in Jeeps...
As for that "Nissan 2000OHC" cover, I just dusted mine off on the back porch, sprayed it with cosmoline, and stuck it in the rafters I just installed in my lockable shipping container.
Any Z-Enthusiast with theivery on their mind just lost a great target of opportunity as all the stuff on my back porch has now been filed away this past weekend.
Amongst things (not to threadjack, but while I'm at it...) stored under lock and key in a metal container: Original G-Nose (rough), Upper portion of G-Nose (two piece aftermarket-new), Triple Manifold (Bare), Beta Motorsports CF Cowl-Induction Hood, gads I was packing for two days solid with all the assorted bits and pieces to numberous to mention. They were just laying there. All you had to do was get past the dogs...
That Classic Z thread is a good read, and should be referenced for the Mercedes linkage alone...
Do i have to run a catalytic coverter?
in Exhaust
Posted
No Datsun manufactured anywhere before 1975 had a catalyst on it.
The catalysts were installed on Japan Domestic Market offerings starting with the EFI versions.
If your Z came with carburettors on it, it did NOT come from the factory with a catalyst. Period.
Federal cars did not get a catalyst until 1981 when the 17 digit VIN system came into being.
California Spec cars had catalysts starting in 1975, and went onwards from there.
Elsewhere, like in Europe, there were no catalysts or even EGR on the ZX's even in 1983. They didn't even get ECCS, they had an EFI system with an E12-80 distributor set up for a pneumatic advance/retard cannister like a 63-66 Corvair Spyder/Corsa Turbo!!!