Tony D

Speaking from a cheapskate point of view, there is a product available at Lowe's and Home Depot that is designed for freeze protection on Eaves of Roofs. It's a self-sealing ice-prevention tar compound, with a self-adhesive back. It works GREAT for the floorboards and anyplace else you want to stick sound deadener. It's CHEAP, and comes in rolls 36" wide. You guys may want to check it out if you are looking for generic sound deadener comparable to the stock stuff! You can layer it and increase the mass for more deadening capability like Dynamat, but for a fraction of the cost. I wish I had the name, but it's pretty obvious when you go to the shingle section of the Home Improvement Warehouses what you are looking for...it's sticky on one side, self sealing, and meant for eaves. When you see how much you get for the cost...you start thinking 'brand names be damned, I'm gonna try this!' LOL

Thanks for the translation Greg! I forget I am 'metric disabled' and many people wouldn't realize how big the JDM was actually running. Yeah, the RS Okinawa 77 S30 was cranking 444Kw on the same dyno my L20A put 97PS (I chose "PS" for my sticker, instead of the lower Kw Number! LOL). The Twins were not sequential, but parallell, eachbeing fed by 3 cylinders. JeffP's testing with the 3" downpipe and exhaust showed no loss of down low power or torque, and in fact showed a 20 HP boost on the top end. Overall the whole dyno curve was better than stock with only the exhaust being changed! N/A and Turbo are two different animals, but John C brought up a very valid point of operational rpm range. For a track car for sure 'bigger is better' but on a turbo car, no matter what, "Bigger is not big enough!" should be the rule! But again, someone stating that 2.5" 'is good enough' really has to look at packaging! The twin 50's will flow like a 2 3/4" pipe, and FIT like a STOCK system (actually it IS a stock system, hanging from stock hangers replicating the 60mm Z432 Setup!) I know some people have had issues with the 2.5" near the diffy, unless you use a later crossmember which makes packaging easier. But twin 50's fit like the stock setup on the early 240/260 diffy crossmember. Sure twicepipes cost more, are more complex, but they do also flow better. And if you package 60mm tubing, you flow BETTER than a single 3" pipe! It's just another option. I recently sent someone the parts page from the Fairlady 432 Parts Booklet so he could compare the stock single tube system to how Nissan hung/packaged the dual system in the same chassis. The only real difference is hangers and how they routed it. Twin 60's / 50's are no more susceptible to bottoming on lowered cars than properly-hung stock systems if you follow Nissan's designs and engineering!

Loctite and Staking as stated will be more than sufficient. Frankly, IMO, the loctite is for vacuum sealing, and the staking keeps the things from moving. I think I PM'd you about it, but I took an aluminum rod, threaded it appropriately (BSP Tapered Thread) and then sunk them in with loctite. After they were in there well, I staked 'em, and then ground the whole schebang flush! I didn't even have the 'pods' sticking out! All smooooooothe! THen I 'black magic blasted' the whole tube so it all had the same finish. Painting afterwards makes the modification undetectable.

As long as you get "N42" castings, I wouldn't worry about 'the best nickel content', what you are going for is the thick walls. Except for the F54 which has marginally less nickel, and therfore more suceptible for wear, any of the "N42" castings will be indestructible with any rings you put in there...except if they are made of Diamonds! Those baby's are HARD! N42=Last forever with no measurable wear!

DELLORTOS Remember that on Dellotros you can BUY from the FACTORY the proper seals and emulsions tubes to work properly on-boost! The Maserati BiTurbo utilized Dellorto Blow-Through DHLAS! All the parts exist to put them together wtih an emulsion tube that richens up on-boost automatically without changing to humongo jets. Somewhere I have a Videotape where I recorded the setup of a Cartech 44PHH Mikuini setup jetting. They were MUCH larger than I was running at the time with my modulator-ringed L28 (even if he was a 3.0, that is not enough to run the jets he was running!) If you want to run the Dels as ITB's, pull the venturis, and sleeve the interior to 45mm with a single tube, it prevents any boost leaks. Put the injectors in a spacer behind the throttles and you will not have to worry about sealing the throttle shafts. As for a TPS, check out Kinsler Fuel Injection in Troy Michigan. They have a CW and CCW TPS setup that mounts anywhere, and can hook onto the triples manifold bar with an additional arm, linkage, and a place to mount their bracket. Frankly, I've considered using the Kinsler TPS bracket under the dashboard hooked to the stock bellcrank through a rod simply because it's HIDDEN! In any case, the Kinsler bracket will give you a versatile way to put a TPS on any bellcrank actuated throttle system...even stock SU's! Keeps you from having to adapt something to the stock Carb throttle shaft. On the pictured Cartech system, since the Mikuini Bellcranks have 'extra' ball holes, putting a linkage to one and hooking it to the TPS is a breeze, as long as you can get the linearity worked out! The Kinsler bracket uses GM TPS units, which are pretty much universal on EMS systems these days.

Warning... For all the inflated talk, it's well known that the stock rods will not last long once you exceed 100HP/Hole. The 'failure' will not be block induced, if it's stock-rodded, it will be a compressive failure down the rod. After that, bearing loadings will start becoming a factor. Unless you get stupid boring the L-Gata, the block will not be the failure point. There is a flexing issue, and for that the JDM cars have introduced a girdle to stiffen the block/lower end, but cross that road when you get to it. Electromotive didn't use it, and they were making more than that. Documentation? You ask too much. This was 20+ years ago, and most of those guys did it, and moved on. You are simply retreading the same path long enough down the road where anybody who was doing it firsthand has moved along a long time ago. Add to that the dynos used then were written down on hand written sheets, not computer printouts. If anybody kept them after the racing season was over you'ld be considered lucky. New year brought a new engine (84) and EVERYTHING would start anew! All that 'old crap' would be tossed as nobody would be running it! And the guys who did it then really have no incentive to inflate numbers. In the day, they had an incentive to deflate numbers due to competitive secrets, but now, they will tell you the straight scoop. If you can find them! Caldwell is in San Diego...

I'm a big fan of Devcon Aluminum Putty. Machines and takes threads really well. And is a heluva lot easier to slurry into places where I can never get my TIG! The only problem is I have to make damned sure I have all the welding done on whatever BEFORE I put it in there. I've had a few 'DOH' moments since starting to use it. I really like it for intakes and T/B alterations. Makes nice machinable plugs for casting as well (or for altering existing castings for taking molds from!) Point of Historical Interest: Never use Devcon Titanium Putty on anything you think you will be taking a carbide die grinder bit to later on...the Devcon will win! You wouldn't think 'plastic' would make a carbide bit throw sparks....but it will! (Bad Day...really bad day!)

I can show you four-digit serialized L24 Blocks with the remote oil cooler holes in place and functional... Shocked me when I saw it! Didn't think they had them that early, but the did!

One picture too many...I see Devcon! LOL Jenvey made a nice ITB setup that was available in thickness from 109mm (stock Weber width, front to back) down to I believe 30mm wide...though welding those in would likely have distorted the bores on the throttle shaft. Niiice!

Yeah, that is a JCR conversion kit on a V-8 Hybrid 260Z 2+2. He is in one of the Car Clubs I belong to, that car was at MSA Show last year out on '260 Island' with the Blue Turd Racing 2+2, and my 75 Fairlady Z 2/2. Nice guy, he has several Z's and some other American Iron as well.

Actually, Kinsler makes a TPS bracket that allows you to mount a GM style TPS just about anywhere along the llinkage. It operates with a linkage arm, and if you have a 'kickdown cable' for that V8 Lump, you can connect it to that easily putting it anywhere you can fit it, connected via an aux throttle cable.. Another alternative is to slot the throttle shaft, and 'extend' it slightly to actuate a TPS.

The blowover issue assumes that the turbo blows from the pipe directly into the plenum like a stock manifold. HKS and SK turbo plenums for Carbs used a shrouded entry with the plenum being pressurized through openings between cylinders 2&3, as well as 4&5.... in some cases they put a diffuser baffle into the plenum to further interrupt the velocity and turn it into pressure more evenly throughout the box. SK went so far as to shroud the plenum into two compartments using a baffle the entire length of the plenum, allowing air to enter only at the top and bottom of the plenum. The original HKS Box (Type 1) used a similar setup, letting a prechamber diffuse the incoming air to pressure, then putting it into an upper chamber before letting it blow from the top of the plenum down between the aforementioned cylinders. The key is to diffuse the velocity of the air coming from the tubing entering the plenum into a pressure situation. Normally people 'diffuse' it by expanding the area...dumping into an open plenum. If you instead use a baffle to stop that velocity you see an increased on-boost characteristic (boost seems to come on harder) as opposed to simply letting it diffuse into an open chamber (similar to what happens in the turbo's torus ring around the compressor wheel, velocity slows, pressure builds...) As for bar-and-plate it is a design that looks similar to the intercoolers sold for years. Those would be considered 'tube and fin' style normally. Bar & plate coolers offer superior heat transfer in a more compact size than conventional tube & fin or shell & tube coolers. Generally the bar and plate coolers have turbulators in the 'bar' portions to maximize air to air heat transfer. Instead of having smaller tubes (think three core radiator) the tube is across the entire thickness of the core with those turbulators in it. These links should show some of the differences (I hope.) http://www.airradiators.com.au/?id=87

I mean, FWIW, you could take the MEGASQUIRT, hook it up to the Z31 Dizzy, and run IGNITION ONLY on MS-S-E..... I mean, everybody runs them 'fuel only' but there's absolutely no reason you can't use it as a Standalone Ignition System as well. One connector for the Dissy running under the dash, and a couple of lines to the coil... If you look at that VG EFI intake closely, you could easily take the upper manifold section off, and make a simple adapter out of 1" Aluminum Plate that would bolt down onto the lower manifold section... Cut it so that there is a 'twist' so every two holes front-to-back support a hole running perpindicular to the cylinder heads, and then simply tap the thing for the appropriate bolt pattern, and install TRIPLE STROMBERGS! You want a Vintage look? There you have it! Nothing is as Hot Rod Vintage as Triple Strombergs! And they make lookalike bodies now that hide fuel injectors in the 'float bowls' so you could have the vintage look, and EFI benefits as well... Though Megasquirt or other standalone comes into play. But Triple Strombergs would be too cool!

Any competent machine shop should be able to make a liner, or simply order one in. Darton Sleeves, LA Sleeve, there is a bunch of people making drop-in sleeves for service repairs.

Biggest issue I take with the explanation above is that it is applicable ONLY to a single turbo application. When you are using TWO ZX Turbos on the same engine that only had one to begin with 'restriction on the exhaust side' ceases to be a factor. Actually, you have an Exhaust A/R closer to 1.20 with what you have. I think the JDM .43 A/R exhaust turbines reworked with a slightly larger turbine exhaust exit path, as well as using a slightly better Compressor Wheel (more efficient at 15 psi for example, and provinding much more flow) will net better spool characteristics, as well as better lower rpm performance. As it sits, you are using only 1500CC's to turn each turbine, and I believe it will be a simple matter to control wastegating on the stock turbo wastegate flappers well up in the HP range. Interesting the power peak is at 6500. Some cam timing may help on that. You installed adjustable cam sprockets, right?

Elliott was aerospace related, and used those Adel Wiggins Clamps on their old PAP vertical split compressors. It was 'old home week' for me, as it looked like an overbuilt Bleed-Air Driven Air Cycle Machine from a C10 or other Avionics Cooling Array. I 'appropriate' them whenever I can...what I will use them for is beyond me! I keep them around because they look so cool! LOL You can see the dilution of various industries as 'other' disciplines start to influence machine designs. IHI (new kid in the marketplace) used a DC Drive Variable Speed setup on their Turbocompressor, with Titanium Impellers and cranking along at 120K...floor footprint was comparable to the old Elliotts. Definately Turbocharger Influenced with those speeds in an industrial application! While Elliot marched straight and steady to look like Cooper Machines (blatant ripoff of the design IMHO) with thick castings and massive iron instead of aluminum tubing, Adel Clamps, etc... But again...I digress!

Save some money, chances are all your pistons are good, SLEEVE the offending bore, and have the others honed/deglazed to standard spec and put new rings in and be done with it. This is why Nissan Showed Liners for the block available...to repair one cylinder to standard instead of following the American Standard of overboring everything and tossing all the pistons at the same time. Sleeve shouldn't be more than the cost of boring all six, and that saves you the cost of the pistons! I'm assuming you can feel this when you drag a fingernail over it...

Ohhh, Adel Wiggins Clamps... Someone knows proper tubing procedures! LOL "Long Rants"? WTF... I thought this place was about exchanging the maximum amount of information. What, this is now ZC.C all of a sudden? Call me sensitive, but "Rant" is a particularly offensive word when dealing with someone taking the time to elocute a position that is a bit more complex than simply a knuckle-dragging 'it ain't makin' no differunse then pullin yer spar tire out and runnin it' For some, the process of the decision is as much a part as the results. Forgive those of us who revel in the process...

I saw some crazy big stuff in Japan in the 80's done on N42 Blocks.... Big Bore? Some would use the excuse 'I'm just unshrouding the valves for better flow characteristics!'

"I would gather that a air to air cooler would also be an area where you develop a lot of turbulance...Again not a turbo guy so I haven't followed up on any improvements sence like the 80's." That would be why 'bar and plate' I/C's (used in industrial applications for years) have made it into Automotive I/C applications. The problem with using the I/C argument is that it's very far from the point of engine entry in most cases. What may be turbulent there is well relaminated and flowing down the pipe to the T/B again. Once it's flowing smoothly, the idea is to minimize losses at each opportunity. In industrial applications I can show instances where people saves over 600 horsepower of compressor (meaning a whole compressor system shut down) after going through their system and simply having them repipe using the same undersized piping while at the same time eliminating elbows. In some cases, simply adding a second feeder to point of use cuts piping losses in half (intuitively this is obvious) but instead of paying $1500 for piping on the front end, the design engineer saved that money on the capital outlay, and then ran for 10 years pumping air through an undersized pipe system and costing hundreds of thousands of dollars in electrical bills for YEARS before someone comes in and shows them spending $1500 in pipes will save them $30K in Electrical Costs PER MONTH! (Actual Example from Fairfield CA!!!) What the key is designing the most efficient system on the front end, and not worrying about it on the back end. If you utilize the best and most efficient parts in each portion of your design, sweating the details is what it comes down to. Air Horn Shape. A 0.001" on this bearing journal compared to that one. Dial Indicating? Depth micing the pistons in the bore when assembled for deck height. It's the difference between an L24 tha makes 120 hp, and one that makes 180 hp, using identical componentry. And that's on an N/A. On a turbo, even the smallest restriction can compound and cause a pressure rise that costs you unimaginable ammounts of horsepower. It's not merely cramming in air through boost. That is the 60's paradigm. If you make the engine FLOW same as you would for an N/A, the horsepower you make will be achieved at a lower boost level. I have seen 380 Ft-Lbs of torque at 8psi (4500rpms). It's on a stock manifold. Normally that level of torque is had at 2X that boost level. Sweating the details on a Turbo Engine will reqard you will much more power than it ever will on an N/A setup, simply because you are dealing with flow FACTOR under pressure (2X or 3X loss for the same restriction). 60's Paradigm was 'no porting is required for Turbo Motors, just use boost' Repeat for almost 20 years. Then, in the early 80's these little Renault's and Hondas were making 1500-1700HP from engines of 1.5L displacement. It wasn't simply 3 bar boost that did that!

I don't know about anyone else, but my twin 50mm pipes don't rub, and are not visible as a lowpoint using a 240 mount and proper hangers like the Z432. The divot may be 'small' but it's enough to properly hang a 60mm tube under there with no interference issues, and will keep your exhaust from being a low point. I don't know, maybe I'm a talented exhaust system installer, but it's not been a problem using the OEM fittments on several cars I've installed this same style exhaust. For a single 3" exhaust, no doubt the later 280Z mount is better, the cutout is much larger and allows you to stuff the huge pipe up further to get it clear of everything.. But for twins in the 60 mm range ( almost 2.5"...2.36" I believe...) using the stock 432 Exhaust hanging setup and early differential crossmember should present absolutely zero clearance issues, appearances and intuition to the contrary notwithstanding. You can force something under there that wasn't designed to fit, or you can put it under there like the original engineering intended, and benefit from MUCH greater flow potential for a healthy engine compared to the single monster tube. Seems like a no-brainer if you don't want to rework a bunch of stuff. Just because it didn't come that way here doesn't mean we can't use the holes in the chassis, right?

Yeah, the last 510 guy I talked with said he ordered the intake manifold and distributor from the Saudi-Arabian Market Truck. Nissan Motorsports used to be real good at getting parts like this... You may try Nismo in Tennessee or wherever they are now on that line of questioning. I have seen more than one with a four barrel on them, using a Nissan Carburetor Manifold. One of the Nissan Employees had a T-Bucket Roadster with a VG30 in it as well, but he had the intake off Spence Low's Off Road Truck, which utilized three Mikuinis...one of which was cut in half! Three barrels on each side, 1 1/2 carburettors---interesting way to do it. He got that cross-ram style manifold for free before Motorsports Division crushed the truck. Perks... One last, and more obscure manfiold you may want to consider out of wicked cool looks is the one produced in the 80's by a Japanese Company caled "TBO"...They had a tripple Weber 44 IDF manifold for the VG engine, had them inline down the center of the engine like a Jag or Ferrari V-8. Looked really cool, and at the time was the preferred manifold for Turbocharging the engine, one TBO Plenum and you were boosting away happily! All these manifolds used a conventional distributor, so they're out there, you just have to find one. OH, and since you are so familiar with the GM HEI, conversion of one of those is not a big deal. You have a distributor stalk made that will fit the block, and accomodate the upper portions of the HEI cap, etc, and assemble one using the GM internals driven through a VG Drive Spindle. They do this for VW's all the time. I think MSD has even put out a line of Billet Distributors for it now. The GM HEI is a fine standalone unit, and with the proper aftermarket module should provide plenty of spark. It's just getting a machinist to make up that mounting stalk. Some Lathe and Mill work and youre' ready to assemble! But beware of that huge cap! Fitting other things around it can be a pain sometimes...

I shaved mine altogether. I stuck reflectorized tape along the spoiler on the front, and the pinchweld in the back. Light not required in California, just the reflectorized section... It's a parsing but the CHP begrudgingly has left me alone thusfar. I hate Sidemarkers. I had to have them put in to federalize the Fairlady Z, and then promptly removed them and 'repaired' the butchery done in the name of my own safety. Did I mention I think they should go back to Leather Helmets in the NFL?

Ahhh, you are immune to the Devil! JeffP is not so strong. I guess you must be like Wato; Jedi mind tricks don't work on me!" He's more like one of the Stormtroopers... "Those aren't the ITB's you're looking for, move along!" LOL

I'm with Miles about being wary of what people tell you, insist on the receipts and maybe even opening up some stuff to check it out before you buy. I bought a Corvair one time where the P.O. told me 'cam, forged 0.060", balanced and lightened rotating assembly' I was like "yeah yeah yeah, no receipts or shop orders it don't mean anything, I'll give ya $1500 for the car as is..."---anyway, got two years down the road and pulled the fan cover to fix a leak and was shocked to find the guy was actually telling the truth! Isky Cam, 060" TRW Slugs...and shotpeened/lightened rods! I ended up taking photos of everything so later I could prove what was actually inside the engine. It was an 'anomaly' as far as I've seen. Engines can run so well with just some head work and a cam, people think there is a LOT of work 'on the bottom' and end up getting burned. Caveat Emptor.