Tony D

I'd go with BRAAP on this one, and maximize the plenum volume. I wouldn't bother with a thick and thin combination, just put the most in there that your setup allows, and then retune. The thin spacer will not likely have much of an effect one way or the other, while the two thicks will work nicely and is a proven commodity. I suppose someone with a thick block of phenolic can make up their own!

I'll agree with Ron Tyler, we found past torque peak on JeffP's engine we started pulling fuel like crazy and kept making horsepower and EGTs were still in line with his tastes (and they are finnikey tastes...) At 12.5 across the board, after torque peak, the EGTs were skyhigh, and we were glowing the turbo and three feet of downpipe bright yellow-orange! Took out fuel and that stopped quickly enough. No engine will be happy with one AFR for all speeds. And suprisingly, they will tolerate a lot less fuel in some places as compared to others and still make power! Some of Jeff's bins past torque peak were in the mid/high 13s under boost without EGT issues or any detonation!

That is about it, 37cc chambers for the JDM 1998 Inline Six. This is the head I will probably have reworked in the off season for our Bonneville Engine (1998cc L20A) as the E88 with it's larger chamber just doesn't produce enough compression for our power production needs. A 79mm bore doesn't cut it with a 47cc chamber no matter how high you pop up the pistons! Not to the tune of 15.5:1 like we wanted for the smaller engine, higher than the 14.5:1 CR the bigger L28 had that we were running a few season ago.

You missed it, then! The Harbor Freight on Adams Street carries the Ballotini Glass Beads, as well as the 'Harbor Freight' Aluminum Oxide, Glass Beads, and Walnut Shells. I don't know who you talked to there, but they were mistaken about what they carry (and they do that a lot!) If you get the SKU number from the Online Store (http://harborfreight.com) and take that into them, the register personnel can do a stock check. As you go in the door at the store, turn left, go past the cabinet with the router bits and replica miniature engines, head back to the rear part of the store past all the electrical tools, and when you get back by the cabinet where all the MIG welding wire and replacement parts are, look for small brown boxes about 6X6X6". That will be the Glass Beads and Aluminum Oxide. The Ballotini Beads are in five gallon pails that are white and blue. If they are out of stock (best time to go look is EARLY Saturday Morning, or ask Friday evening before they close, and 'get your name on the list' for stuff from their upcoming truck shipment), you can go to McFadden-Dale Hardware in Corona. They have Ballotini Beads, Walnut Shells, and Black Magic as well as generic Aluminum Oxide and bags and the pails like the Ballotini Beads. BEWARE! You will pay 10X what you will at Harbor Freight for the Aluminum Oxide there at McFadden Dale. They do have a lot of other cool stuff as well. They are on Maple / 6th Street north of the 91, across from the entrance for the Container Factory (Dart Container). If you get off the 91 Westbound at Maple, turn right off the exit, go past the light, there is an office/stripmall complex on the corner, they are the next building past that on the right (Dart Container is on the left). They have a very small sign, and you enter at the rear of the building. The beads and blasting abrasives are under the counter towards the North end of the building. Ask anybody behind the counter, and they will give directions on how to find it. Get the idea I spend some time in these establishments?

I've found that AFR's at idle need to be richer (as did Nissan---that TPS idle contact RICHENS the fuel curve for idle operation!). When you run 14.7, the HC's go up due to Misfires from what I've seen. This is an uncatalyzed set of readings, correct? What were your readings, anway---did you make the numbers by a wide margin, or just squeak by. I'm curious to see the actual numbers' results. I have to dig up the last legal smog test I did on my 73 down here in CA. I passed the tailpipe, but still failed the visual... This summer, I will be getting a full Engine Analyzer, same unit they used in Delaware to do Emissions Testing up until a couple of years ago. Full diagnostic capabilities, as well as two-gas analysis (CO & HC) as well as two cans of the Cal and Span Gas! I will be set to do the old Idle-2500 tests like the old BAR-90 standard. If I can get the car to pass idle-2500, it's ready to go to the dyno and not set off any of the HIGHWAY mounted Emissions Monitoring Points down here...

A 1 gallon thermos wrapped with 16 feet of copper tubing and filled with ice to the top will attain 120 degrees in 2 hours driving across the desert, but the car will not vapor lock in stop n go traffic on the Vegas Strip. You will have to refill the container every two hours. Fuel coolers will be rather innefectual using ambient heat. Wrapping your pickup line on the cool side of the AC plumbing is a better bet. Matter of fact some new vehicles do this to stabilize the fuel temp. The only reason the thermos heated up was because the fuel return wasted the cooled fuel sending it back to the tank. Ever feel your tank when it's having problems? You will be amazed how hot it is! Once it goes into the engine bay and heads back to the tank...it just starts building on itself. Perhaps some Peltier devices on the bottom of the fuel tank or along the way? JeffP, you watching this thread?

Might have been 567...mistype or dyslectic moment... Too dark out now to go look at the tube. Yeah, went and checked your site, and searched on 567: it's 567---400F rating for hot engines and compressors! There also is some 'high strength' stuff out there for permanent installations that will SEAL AND STICK---you will play hell trying to get the fittings out without heating them to relieve the selant's grip! http://rshughes.com/products/079340_56747.html I don't know that I'd use 592, that slow cure stuff takes forever to set up!

I'll chime in and say my turbo runs 15 btdc idle timing (Megasquirt) with high vacuum bins at 40, and full boost bins around 17-19. I don't see any reason to run 24 at idle. May make for snappy reponse off idle, but it's pretty snappy at 15 for me. I think the reason the 'stock' ECCS runs 24 BTDC is due to their system for trigger return retard. I have asked a couple of times if anyone has ever charted the advance curve on the stock ECCS system. My old pneumatically controlled Corvair was set at 24 degrees, and that was that. When it went on boost it retarded timing through the cannister, and was basically a centrifugal advance distributor with pressure retard. N/A Vairs were set around 7-10 degrees, but had hellacious centrifugal advance, with another 7-10 added under high vacuum condtions---up to 47 degrees total in some cases. And guys wondered why they pinged on hot days in Palm Springs!!! I think the ECCS has a really limited degree of timing adjustment, and as a result you have to fudge the idle timing just like the old 63-66 Vairs. When you tweak the base timing on the ECCS it just moves the whole map up or down. Really primitive timing control, considering. Anybody know the 280ZXT ECCS Timing Curve?

No, that was Ken Jones. I know, 'we all look alike'! I never got any e-mails... I think your tensioner is in the wrong place for effective auto-tensioning. The water pump will have to turn clockwise (if I remember correctly) to work right, and it looks like the water pump has serpentine grooved belt pulley on it, so it will take some belt twisting to get it there. Though it will give you a better wrap on the S/C by going under the water pump (but that would turn it the wrong way)... So your alternative is to move that tesnioner over toward the S/C and then wrap the pump over the intake side of the WP Pulley. I forget which way the tensioner works...

" l6 with a full race ported head big cams, valves and light weight valve train?" We did all that, well no big valves, only a .040" overbore so it doesn't qualify as 'big bore', standard valve train components nothing lightweight particularly...and come to think of it, it wasn't that 'big' of a cam, either. It was good enough to go 173.325 in F/PRO class at Bonneville, with a power peak at 8250rpms, and shiftpoints at 8500. The same head produced peak power at 8775 rpms when applied to a 2-Liter (0.020" overbore, notched block for valve clearance as it's a 79 mm BORE) and destroked to keep cylinder capacity within class specifications. It's shiftpoints were at 9300 to 9500 depending on gear spread. Around 320 to the rear wheels in 2.8 form, and 205 to the rear wheels in 2.0 form (only 11:1 CR in the 2 liter...those big L28 Combustion Chambers just don't get filled by a 79mm Pop Top Piston, no matter how much you pop it up!) So mine probably doesn't fit your narrow criteria. But what you are asking for is something that isn't needed. Why do you 'need' all that crap?

Curious you should mention that! I got into the shed today and was looking at what I have to move to pull it down. I have to send the end pieces off to someone for 'replication' and am glacially moving in that direction. Send me an E-Mail with '2+2 Dimension Photos' in the Subject Line so I have a direct link to send them to when I get it done. I just cleared out my e-mail box (27 pages now down to 3) so the list of 'things to do/reply to' has shrunk considerably. Pray this lul in industrial compressor startups/overhauls lasts a couple of more months... I may actually get all my backed-up projects cleared! You and someone else wanted those dimensions. And I didn't see an e-mail from him in that box while I was cleaning...

I thought I mentioned that some of the Auto-X guys will run the N36 intake with a pair of Thick Insulators --- two Thick Insulators per carburettor, four total for more midrange torque. (Use EGR studs to connect the carbs to the manifolds...they need to be around 75mm long; and use a linkage from the pedal to the bellcrank through the firewall as the downlink from the crossbar to the carbs as you will have to readjust the length to prevent overcentering the linkage and locking the throttles at WOT or 1/2 throttle, cut 5-7mm off the end and then use the threaded portion to make the proper length.) I ran this setup for quite a while, before retiring the car...I still have the complete setup waiting for another car. You could use ONE more spacer in there, but you won't be able to fit the stock aircleaner...at least and still remove it for filter changes. With two on there, you can juuuuust get the filter cover and filter out and off for routine maintenance like checking synch and etc... The N36 intakes had a separate water line to the carbs, and one for the manifold that was thermostatically controlled, so thinner gaskets made sense. The Earlier Manifolds were plain SU's without thermostatic manifold preheating, so they insulated the carbs with thicker spacers.

It will be 'too short'...by about 13". I used the standard MSA 2.5" Mandrel Bent system for a coupe on two of my 2+2's. I simply went to Pep Boys and bought a length of 2.5" Pipe from their exhaust section and added what I needed. On the second system I added a glasspack there instead and actually cut some of the MSA pipe off to compensate for the secondary muffler (it was 30" long!) If you look at what Nissan did with the 2+2's, they simply added a second 'spacer pipe' that went between the standard Coupe Components. You can do the same, as long as the headpipe is separate at some point from the header between the engine and differential---that is the place you have room to do your 13 or so inches of adding pipe in there.

That's why the dissimilar Rods (Toyots 3SGTE), different journal diameter. Same reason guys use 5.7" Chevy Rods (and recut the Journals) on Stroker VW Air Cooleds, and VW Type 4 Center Main Bearings on wleded strokers when used in Type 1's! Problem was, you had to use the 'Good' Chevy rods, as some of them weren't forged in the early days! Kinda like cast cranks. Man, thank Gawd I went with imports that come with all forged internals! Or maybe that's the reason I went with them! LOL I still remember my Fairlady Z with the hood open gathering all the looks back in Michigan: "Wow, Fuel Injection on a 1975?" ROMAFLOL

I've got a pile of those plugs from my time in the USAF. During my tennure there it was common for Depot to install cheap 'converters' on the Magneto Leads that were supposed to convert the magneto pulse into a high enough energy pulse to trigger the ignition process through some sort of transformer action...but they never worked like when they did the proper retrofit of the Laser Distribution Module. Typical Governmental Bumbling. High Tech end pieces, and then a 'make it work' transitional piece that never worked. It was a pain removing these with all the regulations regarding disposal, it was easier to claim the engines came from depot mis-shipped without plugs, as the Uranium Packed ones were "DIFM" (due in from maintenance). I 'lost' a bunch of those from 84-89 while on Kadena. I usually delegated the removal of the plugs to some onestriper because I hated wearing all the protective gear. I carried countless plugs home in the pockets of my BDU's over the years. Hair still grows there, so I doubt there was any real radiation danger. Recently I have seen plasma pulse plugs that do not use Fiber Optic Plasma Initiation, and utilize a different configuation with what looks like a standard ignition terminal. So possibly the technology has progressed to a point where these 'Blowthrough' plugs can now be initiated by conventional spark ignition components without any tertiary transformer action to the Gigavoltage range needed to produce the initial plasma glob. They say they are using 'capacitors' in the press release: http://www.eworldwire.com/pressreleases/17760 WOAH! Huge Photo Image. Link instead! http://www.eworldwire.com/mediauploads/29228_224437_1192052518.jpg Another competing Plasma Globber, using strange electrodes as well: http://www.nexusmagazine.com/articles/Firestorm.html

That is a common term used for those transparent plastic spark plugs with the sintered brass ends. Those are depleted uranium nodules, and when excited through a fiber-optic cabling system from a laser-trigger will produce a gob of superheated plasma which 'blows through' the plug core of uranium and out through the sintered brass filter end---where stray quarks are contained, filtered, and recycled in a catalytic action---when the plasma glob hits the fuel air mix in the combustion chamber it will inite with much more reliability than conventional sparks. The high power of the blow-through ignition system (so named due to the transparent glass plugs giving the appearance of the laser trigger light 'blowing' down through the beads of uranium as the plasma blob picks up energy and ignition force) has been known to melt the centers out of pistons if the fuel air mix is too lean...the plasma is not dispersed through the fuel, igniting it, and instead goes straight to the piston crown where it's superheated energy will melt right through common aluminum. There are many plusses to using the blow-through ignition system, but this is the primary drawback. Make sure your engine is fueled completely and correctly or you could experience the plasma-glob induced piston melt down. Here is a shot of Blow-Through Igniton Plugs, you can see the chromed Fiber Optic Connector at the top. Not your normal plug boot connection! You can see how people would think something 'blows through them' with the big spigot on the end, instead of the normal terminal cap. Modern Technology...amazing, isn't it? Here they are in the process of overhaul (great thing, just recharge with Depleted uranium everny 100K miles, and they are good as new!) Note the sintered brass/bronze quark regeneration filter, and large bore hole in the cap to accept the fiber optic cabling to give it very close proximity to the Uranium Beads for proper plasma glob propogation. What they look like NEW: What they look like when in need of Overhaul due to Quark Degredation: Lean Engine Melted Piston Hole from Plasma Glob Impingement on unprotected Piston Crown:

For the cost of O-Rings bought from a generic source, you can get 100 for the cost of 8... Carry a spare in a ziplock. When was the last time you had a catastrophic O-Ring Failure in your fuel system? Not likely.

Snagged mine from a Z31, same thread, I also harvested the connector. Runs into the Megasquirt.

Actually, testing on cases milspec anodized black recorded slightly better emissivity than bare aluminum. Milspec black or dark grey will help with corrosion prevention as well. many anodizers will not do cast because of customer complaints about 'splotchy' appearance...but the emissivity increase and corrosion prevention is worth it.

They will round off the lever end quite a bit when reducing weight on the reciprocating end. Nowhere near as square as yours are. But the Kameari Rockers are their own forging. They make High Strength S30 Axles as well... They make all kinds of cool stuff.

Generally a submerged arc welding process with wire feed on a special crank welding machine will be used. The VW's I was talking about were Type 1 engines primarily, don't know what the Type 4 engines are doing, I know they are up above 2.8L now, from an engine that originally was 1700cc's I believe. Spray Welding or Metallizing is not my favorite way to restore journals. Many people do it, but I prefer traditional submerged arc welding as it's a permanent adhesion, and can be offset ground as it's structurally similar to the parent metals. As was mentioned above, you can make cheeks, radius it, even lengthen it. You don't want to try that with spray-metallizing. In High Pressure Compressor Cylinders, Spray Metallizing will actually be forced off the parent metal and flake off in biug chunks trashing the cylinder and piston! Below aroudn 1100psi it's o.k., but above that you want a real liner...but I digress. Monzster does raise another interesting alternative, it would not be the first time someone used a dissimilar rod with a smaller journal diameter simply offest grind an existing crank for stroke increase without any welding at all. I have some photos (old Film 5X7's) in an album of one of the cars I am referring to...in one shot when it was still OHC, it was a 3.3L, but in the later photos it has the OS Giken TC24B-1 head on it, on a new 3.5L block. This was at the paint shop, where the guy had all his work done. FRP doors, hood, hatch, fenders, G-Nose, Nissan Perspex Side and Rear Glass...superlightweight bodywork and over a million yen of Stereo in it to boot! And that was 1986... There are lots of alternatives to approach the issue, it all depends on how the individual wants to go about it!

Don't speak ill of the Dead. Gene Berg was 'a dick' if you were trying to rip off his expertise, and I understand exactly why he did what he did. You call him names, but in a cutthroat business where everybody was ripping off his products, stealing his copyrighted instructions and enclosing them with THEIR Taiwan Made Knockoffs, and then simply filing B.K. when sued for infringement to duck sanctions and reopened a week later under another name.... And you asked about ETHICS? Gene didn't do any of that crap, his COMPETITORS did. Read your states local business practices code about what can happen to people who operate like that. Rarely if ever does. Yeah, I go no grasp of capitalisim. Neither did Gene. That's why his business is still around with devoted customers that have been going there for 20+ years and all the rest with 'happy and engaging' counter people are all out of business. None of us (me,the late Gene Berg, etc)understand capitalisim, nor the business owners perogative to deal with those who he so chooses. "If you say it won't, you're either lying or don't understand capitalism. " Yes, I don't understand capitalisim. Agreed. Let's also agree you don't understand volume distribution fundamentals. Your business simply is not that important to his business plan. There will be plenty of others. If not being important to a business is that unsettling to you I don't know what to say. Not to rain on your parade, but personally, I'll now check this guy out just to see what kind of guy he is compared to your characterization of him. Never would have before. There's an old axiom (not capatialist I guess) that says "Negative Publicity is Publicity Nonetheless"... You went from a position of asking about the business ethics into taking offense to someone who elocuted a position from the business owner's perspective. You may not want to hear it, but it's as valid as your side of the story. I don't know you or he, but from a general discussion of business ethics what you did was unethical. You (intentionally or unintentionally) misrepresented your position on purchasing the product from him. He did the most ethical thing (though CULTURALLY unacceptable in your CULTURAL context:) he abruptly hung up on you after a cursory reason for not continuing commerce with you. What the problem is here is a CULTURAL context. You have a problem with HOW he terminated the transaction. ETHICALLY you were in the wrong by wasting his time and misrepresentation of your intentions. In come cultures (Korean, for instance) many times a shopkeeper will not say 'thank you' simply because it's implied, and they don't waste the time. Argue all you want, but ethically you were operating in shady territory with your 'mis-speaking', but ethically he was in his rights to terminate for any reason, and in any manner he so chooses. Am I clearer now? Daeron makes a GOOD point when he says there is a big difference between the forces (CULTURAL) that force a businessman to interact depending on purchase size. EThically you should treat the $1 sale the same as a $1000 sale, and from the SOUNDS of what is being said, the business owner DOES treat all purchases and purchasers the same way wether small parts of large parts. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but from an impartial look from someone unrelated to either participants in the transaction, that is what I'm seeing.

If you think the pickup it the only modification you have to do...well Howler Monkey just enlightened you. For the life of me I don't know why anybody would redrill the block, it takes maybe 20 minutes to modify the sump's pickup and nothing is altered permanently. The only alteration to the block you MAY want to do it relocate the dipstick, and depending on midsump/frontsump/rearsump that may not be required...not all L20ET's have the same sump arrangement. Some are front, some are mid, some are rear (Skyline, Cedric, ZXT for instance). Dipstick is not that big a deal anyway IMO. If you're sucking down enough to worry about it, you already know how much to add weekly. Either fix it, or just keep adding according to mileage driven. Gallery is very close to dipstick hole. Then again, external oil pickup is an easy mod as well, and gives you a lot more flow to boot. Then sump orientation is irrelevant...you don't use any of the galleries in the block on the front end of the oiling system anyway!

Take a trip over to McFadden-Dale Hardware on 32nd st. Carry an injector with you. Go to their O-Ring Bin, select the appropriate Viton O-Ring, and make note of the "A-XXX" number, so you can order them from an even cheaper place it the future. Actually, the Harbor Freight O-Ring kit should probabably have the O-Rings you need as well. You can get more at MCF-D. They are standard O-Rings, they aren't anything special from what I have seen.

Yes, Volvo used 2 white tefzel wires (very nice!) on a Bosch-Injector style plug (hint for those sourcing their own 'Noid Light' pieces in the JY) as heater, with the signal separated in a shielded wire and it's own connector. Generally I will NOT wire the O2 Sensor to the Ignition Circuit. I will wire it off the Fuel Pump Circuit. This way, it only gets power when the car is running. I was shocked that the MSEFI forums had changed to following that advice some time ago. Makes sense to me...