Tony D

So in 4.5 hours I will be able to call JeffP and give him the update? Just got off the phone with him, and now he's waiting for the call as well! Hurry UP! I'm doing the pee pee dance waiting for the results! LOL

Yes, we would poison our O2's on a regular basis, but it took a while to do it. We had laid in a supply of sensors figuring each racing weekend we would need a new one. Four years later, we still had one left. Five Events a year, plus runs at Bonneville. And I suspect some we changed were fine, but 'due to the new season' we installed a new one. We changed EMS systems, and the new system didn't use the same sensor, so the lone spare sits in the box with the TEC unit...waiting for a street car I guess.

Japanese were doing that decades ago, it was a popular "Rice" addition to have the big vents on the back end of the fenders... You knew the big dogs when they actually had vents that were connected to the engine bay! Some of the Twin Turbo Cars had electric fans under there to pull air through the engine bay...carburetted blowthrough setups don't like all that heat under the hood!

Then instead of crossing your fingers start PRAYING they allow the G-Nose as a production part. There is considerable meddling form the Roadster Contingent, and the original bright outlook for the G-Nose continuing on it's 35 year tradition of being allowed on ALL Z-Cars as a Production piece is in SERIOUS Jepoardy now... Pray to Jeebus the G-Nose is allowed, or you might as well toss it all and build a G-Class Motor (1501 to 2000 cc's) as the S30 will be uncompetitive in F/Pro without the G-Nose that let it set the record in 1975, and for us to break that same record in 2000/2001...

You, sir, are mistaken. Search and you will see the story from day one in the pages here...

ARGH! I appreciate you noticed I mentioned Mustang! Andy is a big fan of the Dynojet inertial and I DO NOT LIKE tuning on that machine! I MUCH prefer the Mustang. The ability to simply HOLD a point while I try different things just lets me think stuff out... I mean, we put Jeff's car on a 35% grade and were making passes from 80 to 120mph. Eventually we started toying with some of the Mustang's features that allow it to automatically increase load to prevent the engine from accelerating past X-Point. That was kind of scary... We went back to manually loading the engine at between 15 and 20% grade to allow an 'acceleration' style run. But there were times that I just kept increasing the grade till Jeff gave me the signal that the loadpoint was in the same box he wanted to tune and then he started fiddling while I was watching instaneous torque. At the load points in the upper ranges of the Map...that meant 17psi at 6800, 7000, 7200 rpm and just letting it sit there while he made adjustments. What is wild is how when you let the thing sit at a loadpoint for a second or two, you realize that 'fast instrumentation' is not all that fast, and that there is no way in HELL that I would ever want to seriously tune on an inertia dyno under boost because stuff is lagging so bad... You can 'fudge' your numbers a given ammount and get close...but when you can do it right, why not, Eh?

D with threat of A You will need other independent shops to make sworn statements condemning another local shop for small claims... Who doesn't weld Stainless with Stainless wire. Stainless to Mild I can see a neophyte screwing up on and not using like 309...but stainless to stainless. Man! Sad thing is you may have to run the exhaust to a failure point to have some real 'damages' or proof positive that it's defective if the other shop owners won't sign on the dotted line fer ya! Then again, if it's under $1K, do you really want the added stress of getting the satisfaction of a court saying 'your're right'? You STILL have to collect from him, and that will be all on you as well. You can ask him for whatever you can get back on it, and walk away never to deal or think of him again. I have bosses like that. There is a point where beating the dead horse simply isn't fun no matter how much gore splashes onto you, and you simply want to just walk away, have a beer and go to sleep. So to speak...

That must be some shaved head or welded combustion chamber! 14.5:1 in the 2.8, ran four years at El Mirage and Bonneville. Limiting factor was when the pressed in piston pins walked in the small end of the rods and kissed the block, scoring it. Till that point, and even afterwards it was running fine. The L20A, well it's lower compression simply because we can't 'pop' the top of a 79mm piston big enough to fill enough of an E88 cylinder head to get the compression we wanted...which was 15.5:1. We will probably make a head in the off season that will remedy that situation. We run a standard starter in either case. If you are running some sort of Garden Tractor Battery to start your car, and also run EFI, then use a Gear Reduction Starter as the draw on a smaller battery may cause EMS problems. Race gas is obviously required at these levels. Generally it's rod bearings that take a beating and require replacement with high CR engines especially if your oiling is marginal. On my Drag VW's we would beat out bearings after as little as 8 runs. Though now I realize this may have been detonation causing the problem. Since this clip was shown to me, this is about what the Bonneville Car Sounds like... There are You Tubes of it making passes at El Mirage, but meh...this is someone else's so why not generate some hits for them as well?

Yes it all takes time, but once you get a general idea where the peak power is produced, you simply decide how much 'peak power loss' you can tolerate and set your AFR's up accordingly to give the margin of safety you desire. We were making passes on the Mustang till we reached peak power, then moved timing around in that area to see what effect it had. Sometimes retuned AFR, then went back and checked for repeatability. Once spark and fuel was optimized we went to the next series of bins on the load chart. In the Lower N/A portions of the map, we were leaned out quite a bit for economy, and like you said, JGK, under boost we went a bit more conservative with both timing and AFR. And now we get to do it all over again with the new EMS system!

I believed all the same things. Trust me when I say... We did not TOUCH timing. We were working 'one variable' at a time. We had a timing curve that was not detonating (FINALLY) and were working FUEL ONLY. Lance said something similar to what Mack said, it just doesn't all burn...it gets a free ride out the exhaust valve and down the exhaust. I did not believe him either, and actually Jeff was quite insistent up to that point that we run the recommended 12.5 AFR across the board with minor changes. After torque peak, we pulled fuel and the EGT's dropped, and power came up. EVENTUALLY we went to timing after seeing diminishing returns on the fuel, and STARTED to advance the timing...but ran out of shceduled time on the dyno. Everyone says you can run your whole table in about 2 hours start to finish. I will agree with that. After that two hours you are simply playing around doing things you are curious about...or are too hard-headed about it and are trying to force an issue that will not be resolved without further work in other areas. It was a little of the last two. I think we completed 95% of his fuel spark table in 45 minutes on that run (which lasted ultimately 4 hours I believe), but after that we were curious about what Lance had said to do, and why some things were happening that we couldn't explain. The last part took Jeff many hours in the garage with a dremel tool and an O-Scope to finally make up his mind... Let's just say 'back to square one' regarding fuel maps and timing maps...only this time the system being programmed will not be 'Nissan Based'! Oh, on the EGT and lowering it by richening up the mix...this is basically what I did for years on my non-intercooled blowthrough setup. So my logic for believeing the same things you guys are talking about was rooted in personal experience as well. Add fuel, then take it out till peak or desired EGT is achieved. I would never have thought the EGT would have dropped taking fuel out where we did. There were 'four blocks' on Jeff's map that stayed in the 11:1 portion, and they were the ones where we physically could not get enough load on the engine quick enough to get into due to some air density issues the day at the dyno. So he left them pig rich knowing as we all do 'Rich is Safe'. Lance is a bit out there, you talk to the guy for about an hour before you realize where he is in regards to engine performance and management. It takes a while for me to get up to his speed...and till then I guess he tolerates my stupid questions. Once we are on the same page, though, then he goes into warp speed explaining things again thinking now you will keep up...and it's back to 'Stupid Tony Questions' again! The guy is out there, in more ways than one...but man he's got the Engine Management Stuff down in a scary way!

HAW! It's still under the back seat of my truck. Though now wrapped a bit better with some cardboard, duct tape, and a real big ziplock. Things come together 'slowly' in my world. One day it will go into the Shark Car. But now, I'm putting up concrete forms and digging drainage trenches before 'the rains come' so I have a concrete place to work this winter! Concrete, as opposed to mud...

Cool Fuel has a desnity of BTU's that is higher. For a given injected volume, the cooler the fuel, the more horsepower it will produce. Gasoline at 100F will have a 'power density' due to expansion almost 10% less than Gasoline injected at 60F. This is why there is a call for temperature compensated fuel pumps for gasoline now. Fill up at 58 degrees, and you get 'less' gas mileage per volume consumed compared to when you fill up at 100 degrees. The BTUs you get in a gallon of gas at 58F is radically different than what you get at 100F. Ever wonder why the Z31 EFI systems used a fuel temperature sensor? Why most now do? The detonation issue from cool fuel is because you won't run 'lean' because there is 'more' fuel when it's cold as opposed to when it's hot. Hot fuel and running a vapor flash pan vaporization scheme for induction is an OLD trick from the 50's and the mileage marathons. There is a lot more to it than simply heating the fuel. I can show fuel mileages in almost every case when you heat the fuel...but it is purely due to non-temperature compensated fuel metering. You run leaner, plain and simple. As long as the car is not put into lean surge you will never experience it in any way other than increased fuel mileage. When Detroit Diesel did Dyno Testing and reports for acceptance testing, one of the critical temperatures measured was "FUEL TEMPERATURE"...and all HP derived was compensated for that number, amongst others. Old time truckers new if you got a Detroit to run on hot #2D (above 130F into the unit injectors from the lift pump) you would see a great increase in fuel mileage. They were simple mechanical injectors, and you got a set volume per injection event. Hot Diesel injected less BTU's per cycle, but volume wise it was the only way they measured their fuel consumption. Many guys would run a 'heater loop' for the fuel along the radiator hose when deadheading with the tractor, or an empty trailer. But bypassed to another fuel line that provided cooler fuel when they were pulling a grade on the next segment, or were heavily loaded. On OTR trucks, 3% is huge, and deadheading saving 3% or more of fuel is huge when your independent. Did I digress too much?

I like that one better. Reminds me of what our Bonneville Car sounds like. The OS Video is kind of tame. The guy is shifting at only 7500-8000.

Pulled fuel. Went from 12.5 to as low as 13.8! The horsepower kept increasing, the pipe stopped glowing. I thought the same thing but Lance said 'pull fuel' and when we did even more power came, and the glowing ceased. I mean, if you could have seen how we were beating his car you wouldn't have believed it. I have some video, I should probably upolad some to YouTube...meh! When I get time.

Oh, for general applications Super 33+ is all I use. I just don't like the way the petroeum-based adhesive on it lets it unuravel when it gets submerged. Spray carburettor cleaner on the Super 33+ and you will see the adhesive starts losening. If you wrapped tightly and elongated the tape according to 3M's instructions, you will see it recede. It won't unravel once it gets hard, as long as it doesn't get wetted with the above mentioned solvents/oils. It does come in many colors as well. That is why the rubber-based adhesive on the Tyko Polyken and Plymouth Rubber tapes is preferred by me. 3M Super 33+ has kept me from many a scar on the fingers...blood does NOT weaken it's adhesive, and it is suitable for reattaching, or otherwise securing errant bodily parts that have become partially severed in the line of work... Duct Tape (Nashua) also works well. On Tape Snobbery, I really am particular about my Duct Tape as well! LOL I made aircraft wiring harnesses while in the USAF, and then worked for a while in the Auto Industry and appreciate the pains the OEM's went through to devise what coverings they did. If you ever have to remove a harness cover, you appreciate tape without adhesive, or with one that does not permeat down through a bundle making all the internal wires goopy and sticky.

Looking REALLLY REALLY CLOSE at the PHOTO on the link Deja posted in #4, I see that the core of the tape indeed says "Plymouth Rubber Company" but the link does not specifically mention "#734"...it mentions a number of "E-132", and "53-82 Wire Harness Tape", so it is not readily apparent anywhere even at close looking that it indeed is #734. Plymouth Rubber makes a SCAD of tapes, and I have no way of knowing with the link provided that it is 734. Everybody feel better now? Sheez, you'ld think I took someone's birthday away by posting specific information. Sooor-ee!

Actually NO! I didn't follow the links till after I posted. None of the links had the component name in there. Matter of fact, neither of the links had anything in them about Tyco Polyken or Plymouth Rubber. Only Eastwood. I saw the link to Eastwood, got up out of the chair, went to the shed, pulled out the 'tape box' and wrote down the three or four tapes I had in there, because I thought I had used Eastwood stuff as well. My thought was the 3M I first mentioned, but had confused Super 33+ which I find unacceptable, with the Plymouth Rubber stuff which doesn't have the same adhesive type as Super 33+. When Siper 33+ gets under oil, gas, tranny fluid, antifreeze, it comes apart into a gooey mess. It may be fine for something under the dash or any harness you never want to take apart again, but it tends to shrink more than most of the true harness tapes, and gets brittle on the exposed ends in my experience. I only use Super 33+ for internal splices that have been soldered. Over that I will use the Tyco Polyken or Plymouth Rubber products. So no, it's not 'the same stuff you posted about', actually. It was two other distinct products that are OEM specified and available to the general public without going through Eastwood. If you are only putting the corrugated sheath on, you may want to consider using Shrink Tubing to seal the ends as well. That works nicely if you get the good stuff with adhesive inside. But for some type of OEM looking corrugated-to-loom connection the other stuff will work well. I was going off what I knew worked, and the links didn't have what I found in the tape box, other than Eastwood...at least not in what I could read on the link casually browsing. I did have a fifth tape stub, but it was marked something like "T#50" and it's probably similar to the manufacturer Deja posted about, but since I couldn't track back the technical specification for the product I didn't include it. The primary reason for mentioning the Plymouth Rubber Product was they have MANY different colors, and EVERYBODY sells BLACK harness tape. Plymouth Rubber gives you something to color coordinate with the color of your engine bay, or color code different parts of a harness as to function. Having tape that is 32mm wide (over an inch!) makes wrapping harnesses that are long MUCH faster than the run of the mill 'black tape on a roll'...Another advantage of Plymouth Rubber. But I suppose if you simply want a black tape to put over the harness, any of the previously linked items may be applicable. If black is your thing... Do I need to apologize for in the last line confirming that Eastwood is non-adhesive and thick so it makes it suitable for engine bays (where I used it on the BLACK car I have... want to guess what harness wrap is on the RED 260 ZT I did?)

http://www.bhjinc.com/2dynamics/precision_dampers.htm Work Backwards from there, Mr Kernel Hacker! Obersturmfhurer Poll!

Spooning Dutch B-Tard! LOL Make him give you something for it Jeff. Like a Differential Cooler Assembly complete with cooler and tubes so it's bolt-in to 'the Brown Mongoose'...you can stick mirrors under there to wow the crowd against 'Z-Viper' next year!

Not really, you have to get the gas below ambient, all a 'cooler' will do in that case is warm it back up to ambient after being cooled by the cool can. Now, stick that cooler IN the cool can and you might have something. I made that setup for a Japanese Clubmember who had terminal vaporlock on his 240Z. It was 'stop every hour' time, took forever to get anywhere driving through Barstow, Needles, etc. Installed that little cooler, and he was good to go, no more surging nothing! Of course, he had to refill the thermos with ice every time he filled up, but most service stations sell ice for $1 a bag or thereabouts, so for an extra dollar a tankful he had NO problems. Even cruising the strip in Vegas at 110F in June Heat. Problem solved till he returned to Japan! LOL We run a Cool Can on our Bonneville Car, and if humidity is high you can see condensation on our fuel cel. We only carry two gallons onboard so the cool can will chill all the fuel to 32 F rather quickly. They sell very efficient units in Summitt. They just won't run for Two Hours at a time. For that you need more ice capacity. The returnless systems are just now coming on to line, using PWM control of the fuel pump and a fuel pressure sensor to regulate fuel pressure, instaed of a bypas fuel pressure regulator. This gives advantages in that the ECU can boost fuel pressure to trim for extremes in fuel demand, without the use of larger injectors, etc. Thing is, you need some residence time for the ice to cool that fuel, and with a returnless fuel system that may actually work better. If anything, putting that cooler on the return line to cool it down would be the thing to do, but it's like farting in the wind. Very little effect at all. You need to get it COLD, not merely 'less hot'!

Ahhh, couldn't tell from the photo. And since I haven't gotten any e-mailed to me...

That Turborick site is put up by Rick Yaccouci, probably the fastest dude on a Busa! He made a 300mph+ Streamliner powered by a 1350 Busa Motor (originally Megasquirted!)... This past weekend he went for another record at El Mirage on a 50cc moped. He turned a 39.XXX mph time. Yeah, I'm serious. Rick is a funny guy. 311+mph, and then hops on a scooter to make a 39 mph run. He splayed out flat, legs spread off the line after he got stable...aerodynamics, you know! It was a hoot. They race Barstools at Bonneville too... Speaking of the Charade, there is a Chevy Turbo Sprint (1000cc Turbo) that competes in the land speed trials at El Mirage and Bonneville as well. I had a Suzuki Alto Super-Turbo when I lived in Japan. Compound Supercharged by a Roots Style Blower and a Turbocharger on a DOHC 550 CC Two Cylinder. At least that one was a four stroke. My Cervo was a three cylinder Two Stroke...but it wasn't turbo.

I was wrong, it is Plymouth Rubber Company #734 harness Wrapping Tape. This is OEM specification tape on many new vehicles, self extingusihing, and can come pre-scored so you can breakout wires without having to use a knife. Comes in many colors as well! Here is some of their Propaganda: DESCRIPTION : Plymouth #734 Colored Harness Wrap Tape is a soft PVC tape with pressure sensitive adhesive. #734 is designed for fast, efficient production taping. Controlled unwind eliminates scrap and improves productivity. Harnesses taped with #734 remain very flexible, easing installation during final assembly. Plymouth #734 Colored Harness Wrap Tape meets and exceeds the requirements of Delphi Packard Electric Division Specification No. ESM-4037, DIN 40633, JIS 2107, UTMS 16002, Ford Performance Spec. ES-XU5T-1A303-AA (B02) and most European, US and Japanese specifications for color coding tapes. RECOMMENDED USES: Use as permanent wrapping on wiring harness passenger vehicles, trucks, construction and agricultural equipment, aircraft, aerospace and electronic assemblies. Preferred when requirements include a need for numerous colors plus long term reliability under varying and extreme environmental conditions. STANDARD SIZES: Widths 10mm*, 15mm, 19mm, 25mm and 32mm Available Length - 20m and Core Size - 38mm *The 10mm width is available with side notching for hanking and similar applications requiring secure attachment and fast, easy removal. ***************************************************************************************** Tyko Polyken 007 is another tape for harnesses, but better for behind the dash and places where it's hidden, or where cloth style harness tapes were originally used. It has a slightly more 'cloth' look to it compared to the Plymouth stuff. EASTWOOD P/N 25000 is also a good wiring harness wrap as it's non-adhesive as well. Some stuff can be 5 mil, and really abrasion resistant...nice out in the engine bay.

There is a 3M product that has no adhesive on it, just like the OEM wiring harnesses, and is intended for wrapping harnesses. I don't have the number handy, but it is FAR better to wrap your harness with this than with Electical Tape like Super 33+ because you don't get all the goop and adhesive all over the wires. You have to know the 'special knot' to wrapping the ends with it, or adhesive shrinkwrap the ends to secure the tape from unravelling. But for harnesses that look OEM, and will last as long without shrinking like E-Tape does, that 3-M Harness Wrap is dashizz...

Where did I say that? Full Race Porting was about ALL we did on your list. We used standard sized tuliped valves (flow increase, not weight), standard retainers, standard keepers, better springs, standard rocker arms... It was on an E88 Head with reworked ports, stock L28 Crank with 240 Rods, though in the L20A we are using a set of L20B rods. Porting is required, but reasonably you will not get there with a streetable engine. And 320 was with 0.080" scores down all six bores because the piston pins walked and touched off on the cylinder walls. It went that speed blowing by like crazy, and down on power. Engines like this aren't really pulling below 5000 rpms, the L20A below 6000. Not exactly 'streetable' though with 14.7:1 Compression Ratio on the L28 I suppose low speed tractibility with a heavier flywheel would pull decently... For 300 on the street, Turbo is a far more practical way to go, IMO. Cheaper too.