Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Haven't read the reviews, but many times people try to run these units with a compressor that simply is too small. We drove ours from an Atlas Copco GA11 Oil Flooded Screw Compressor, and had plenty of dry air. If you are running a recip on a small tank, you will get hot air, and moisture which can lead to problems.
Many of these vessels are generic, the real difference is the ends. It wouldn't be the first time someone used up the HF components and then replaced them with name-brand guns and nozzles on the end. I use ALC Ceramic Nozzles in my HF siphon unit, they fit just fine, and last way longer than the metal ones form HF. In my ALC Sandy Jet, nothing has really worn but I keep close watch on those nozzles, especially when running higher pressures and agressive media. They wear out the nozzles, and then can cut the gun right to nothing. I haven't done it yet, but I've seen the results on people who have!
Using a smaller nozzle, with lower pressure really is the way to go with any abrasive media. It may take longer, but you will reduce dusting, panel warpage, and nozzle wear. I will have to go read those reviews and get back to see what the complaints are about.
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I've got the "Marginally Better" HF unit (freebie from a chop shop bust via the impound yard owner giving it to me) and the downfall I see with any of them is they are bolted together. Like Grumpy states, they CAN be tippy, especially on uneven surfaces and when up high. For lifting, it's great, but I am continually going back to tighten the bolts as I find they work loose over time working on the dirt in my back yard (no concrete). This one was outside for a loooooong time, and looks to be at least 15 if not more years old. The ram is rusted, and it leaks. But it functions O.K. other than the bolts loosening. I have replaced the casters with something of higher quality, and because one of them was ground almost flat when I got it.
As for the engine stands, I have 'a few' of them, and use the 750 and 1000# units for STORAGE ONLY. I have one larger one of much greater capacity that I got in a similar fashion to the hoist, and feel a LOT more comfortable wrenching on the engine on it than I do on the 750 or 1000# models---they ARE tippy with the full weight of the L28 on them. I also noticed the deals on them as a closeout at Kragen one day, and loaded up a couple for 'future usage'---they seem fine for static storage. For moving them and working on them, get something more substantial. In Japan they almost always work on the block when it's on the floor on two 4X4 Blocks of Dunnage and they make great power. My gut will not allow me to splay leggedly squat like that any more, so I'm relegated to standing and working form the bigger engine stand.
"A Few"
LOL
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"we normally only found that when the customer was overcompensationg for poor FLOW with higher PRESSURE, using dirty air, or not using enough oil."
AB-SO-LUTELY! Running the guns at 120psi inlet through a 3/8" ID hose on utility air and no oil to break 1 7/16" bolt loose on flanges daily. Like I said, once I got the tool into the MECHANIC'S control, and gave the OPERATORS their own guns, the IR started lasting longer, over a year between overhauls. But the operators still burned up their guns on a regular basis. Funny thing, using the Snap-On 1" impact in 600 ft-Lb service on head bolts, the thing was well over 5 years old and still was going strong. Simply because THAT service was hot, heavy, and a total Beyotch, and the OPERATORS steered clear of the HOT HUMID Engine Room! Work outside breaking flanges, suuure! Actually WORK? Not on your life! Curiously, the MECHANICS oild that big 1" daily, and ran it on the INSTRUMENT AIR HEADER....
CDA is CDA! "Clean Dry Air" No argument here from me at all. I'm just telling the facts from the real working world.
Without calling the Operators a bunch of slack-jawed idiots that didn't know one end of a wrench from another who THOUGHT they were mechanics, because after all "Grease Monkey" is a generic term for Mechanic, right????
Oh, I'll also add that the former 'mechanic' at the site continually cried that the I-R air starters only lasted a few months before needing a vane package and overhaul. My diagnosis of the big smoky acrid cloud from the starter on startup made me think "gee, shouldn't there be an oiler on there?" Shure enough, Einstein had REMOVED the oilers LONG AGO (like 8 years!) because 'they were just runnning through oil like crazy, and don't do anything anyway'....
I'd tear down those starters, and they were scored, had blue heat marks on the vane barrels, CRACKS from spot heating, and vanes cooked to within an inch of their life. His instruction to me on removing the reduction gear was "You take a punch and beat the hell out of the gear till it pops out off the snap ring, and usually you have to replace the shaft"---I asked why he didn't rotate the gear till the snap ring was visible in the HOLES of the Reduction gear, and stick a snap ring pliers in there to release the snap ring...
Hey, in the industrial world of the USA, there is no appreticeship program, no competence testing---this guy got his job because mommy was diddling the safetey manager, and she wanted him out of the house. I got my job there (I'd like to think anyways) because I was qualified technically.... Yeah, after I rebuilt the first starter, and installed it along with the original oiler amazingly you only had to fill the oiler after each third start of the engine, and the starters ran for almost 4 years till I-R offered us a direct upgrade to their newere generation Turbine Air Starters which used less air and made more torque than the old vanepacked units.
Oh, please don't get me started on that place, it was literally 'the little shop of horrors'---the stories I can tell!
And being that I'm a Factory Field Engineer for IR Direct now....those stories really help me illustrate those EXACT points of CLEAN, DRY, AIR to customers! LOL
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I would not 'call it a day' with simply a larger tube on a carbbed application. The stock SU's will starve on hard, banked, longer lefthanders below 1/4 tank! Even Nissan in their competition prep manual for the Mikuinis recommended a surge tank/swirl pot for carbs when using a 240Z!
Make the swirlpot and fuel return line dump into said swirlpot to keep it flooded. As mentioned gated trapdoors and etc all can be added. The parts from a 280ZX tank could probably be adapted fairly easy. My photo is no better than the one already posted of what it should look like, sorry.
While they have the top off, why not have them add a 1/4" flange with captive nuts on the TOP of the tank, and make a removable cover so you can access it later at your convienience? You already hacked it up, make it easy to access in the future NOW while it's apart, and if you need to make changes again later, at least you will be able to access it without paying more $$$. Though for a radiator shop, that may be asking for a lot...
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SHO-Z, for your application, I would recommend drawing through the supercharger simply for the fact that the fuel will give the 'inherent intercooling' advantage, and though packaging will be a nightmare, the need for a blowoff valve and supplemental air cleaner would be eliminated.
For only 10psi on a blower, given it's characteristics, drawing through it is very easy compared to blowing through and having to blowoff pressure, and setting up a proper compressor bypass valve (that can fail and dump boost while accelerating).
Frank 280ZX is working on a blowthrough compound-charged engine (turbo blowing into a supercharger) similar to the old Stratos Rally Cars... But he's EFI, using BMW ITB's... Maybe he can reveal some of his super-secret plumbing ideas to you!
The SK is a good Blow-Through Carb, they were really popular in the late 80's in Japan for that application. I have seen engines with 2Bar+ Blowthrough pressure on them, and over 450HP at the rear wheels using a turbo setup and blowthrough SK's.
The issues of daily drivability on a PROPERLY SETUP BLOWTHROUGH are not that bad, but most are cobbledtogether Cartech Log-Plenum setups that don't run for sh*t in comparison to an HKS or SK Plenum.
Now, speaking of SK BLowthroghs, 'can I interest you in an OEM SK Blowthrough Plenum Box perhaps'? I think I have a spare.... Interested? PM me if you are, I can send photos as long as I don't get sent to BFE again for a month...
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You realize the AFM has absolutely nothing at all to do with fuel delivery above 3500rpms, right?
To tune fuel delivery above 3500rpms, the only practical method is fuel pressure.
Normally the methodology is to stick incrementally larger injectors in the car, and tweak the AFM spring tighter so your idle and light cruise is 'leaner' in the stock ECU, but once the cam kicks in at 3500 and starts flowing air (and the AFM is wide open by then) you go solely on the pulsewidth generated by the preprogrammed curve in the ECU combined with the larger injectors to give more fuel on the top end...
Wind the spring too tightly, and indeed you set up a condition whereby the ECU gets confused signals, throw in the 35% open "Full Throttle" TPS switch and you get even more ECU confusion.
For $400 and two hours of hacking, the MS will cure this Bodge-Job of Bosch Nightmare-Tronic!
The idle air bypass screw will skew the AFM trace through the off-idle to 3500 rpm range. Close it further, and your 3500rpm point will change incrementally. while you richen the idle by not allowing more air to bypass, you thn move the AFM flapper to an incrementally different position at the same time...
"54KPA, 700RPM, Shift-ARROW UP, ARROW UP, ARROW UP, ARROW UP Check O2 Feedback, .7V, next load block...."
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Damn, no I don't! I thought I had one on the Cardomain page...
"We shall have to remedy that now..."
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/735451/4
Hopefully this is the correct link to show the BYPASS LEG I am talking about, it's off my Cardomain Page, and I forgot it was there all this time---DUH! This came up before, so I went out and shot it, then posted it there---these at the supply line and return line I am talking about---this should make it all clear for everyone.
Tony D
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I'm going to add, reading closer through these posts:
WEAR A GOOD RESPIRATOR!!!
I got silicosis being young and stupid doing my 73's engine bay in 88 with the Sandy-Jet. After that little experience of LUNG PAIN like you wouldn't believe, I started wearing a GOOD catrtidge respirator with dust prefilters.
The dust you will raise WILL knock you down. If you are dusting, you are using TOO MUCH PRESSURE as well. You're not supposed to do it, but I recycled my media several times through a fine seive so the finish got progressively finer as the job went along. Not supposed to do it, but it works well for me!
Jut get a GOOD RESPIRATOR before you start ANY blasting, and use it EVERY TIME. You don't want silicosis. Trust me on that regard.
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I would vote for a #2 as well.
I recently had a portable diesel driven IR compressor given to me (185cfm) so my blasting equipment is going to take a BIG jump in size! LOL
So what if it labors to go over 90 psi...for stripping what I want tostrip with a pressure pot, I will need less than 60 psi anyway!
FYI we stripped the underneath of a Sport Fury Hemi that sold at Barrett-Jackson in 2003 using the larger HF Pressure Pot like #2. Boss was going to spend some big $$$ for the 'name brand equivalent' and buying the HF saved almost $1000. He was so happy with the way it worked, he wouldn't let us finish the stripping! Talk about a kid with a new toy!!! He was under that thing blasting away grinning through the hood like it was christmas morning. The pressure pots work SO MUCH better than the siphon guns.
I also have an ALC Sandy-Jet siphon gun (100# hopper) and comparing the pressure pot to it is like night and day: #2 HANDS DOWN!
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I like that counterweight idea, what I was thinking of in particular is repositioniing without getting up and going to the end of the stand to move the car. This is assuming you guys are safety-pinning the car in place---only so many pin positions you can get, but with a gear rotator you can infinetly position the vehicle and only need to pin it in position if you are done for the day. Basically punch a pendant and it rotates---or better yet a foot switch---and it STAYS where you rotated it to, not so much the ease of rotation, but an infinetely adjustable positioner. The Z-Resto rotators were a clamp on a pipe so you could do it like that without a pin (like on the HF Stands), but loosening to rotate and then retightening is not the same as the geared rotator. The best example I can think of is those pipe rotators you use to rotate piping whlie you are making passes on it. I like to weld in some positions more than others (take that any way you like: can't weld vertical, can't weld overhead, only wants horizontal buttwleds...lol) so getting the car to move while I'm welding so I keep the correct-for-me-position would be nice.
I really like the counterweight idea, though. That in combination with some sort of lighter electric rotator would probably be what I end up doing.
Come to think of it, with a rotator, I could invert a car, then hoist it to the roof of the storage container, and roll antother one in below it. Hmmmm, this means I can fit four in the container in the back yard. That would free up some space. Yessss, ex-cellent! Thx guys!
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"although for the important stuff like impact guns I have Matco and IR guns. "
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"It is clearly not the right place to buy tools for a full time professional, at least not the all day every day tools,"
Funny thought, I was buying I-R Impact "Tune Up Kits" for our nice IR gun, at $58 a piece. Till I realized the HF gun could be bought for $58 COMPLETE and lasted the same 6 months as the tune up kits in heavy industrial use. For the $58, I started buying a NEW HF gun every six months, and giving the old guns to operators for 'personal' use---that kept them hammerring away on flanges and stuff with their OWN gun, and not using the 'shop impact' which meant the $58 tune up kit in the IR-Gun started lasting a year or more. So I kept my "Good Gun" longer, and they had something just as good for everyday use. Everybody won! At that time, the internals of their $9.99 Die Grinder were EXACTLY the same as the Snap-On AT-100A...SHOCKED ME! Especially when they broke the same way. Incidentally, the older HF Castings were close enough that I could transplant IR Internals to them, rotors, hammers and anvils, vane cylinders, etc... HF on the outside, all IR inside! I did the same transfer on the AT-100 Die Grinder to an old HF Die Grinder case when an operator dropped it and broke the air inlet off the damn thing. That was the LAST time I spend $100 for a Pneumatic Die Grinder. After that, it was HF every day, all day!
But as for 'pro use'---I don't travel with my 'good tools' any more. Almost everything is HF bought, if it walks I'm not out $500 for an impact gun! And travelling it DOES eventually walk. Even the TSA has a need for the occasional shiny tool (bastards!) Doing some coolers in Tempe AZ last month on an I-R 4C Centac Compressor, we went to HF and bought 4 of their 4" anglegrinders to put cup brushes on them. For $18 each, you couldn't beat it, and I have so many laying around now I have them with sander attachments, grinding wheels of different grits, cutoff wheels...etc. For the cost to the customer, buying 'disposable tools' for a one-time big job is actually CHEAPER than shipping a job box with 'good tools' to the site. Which is a terrible commentary on shipping costs, but like the impact gun example, once the job is over, there are a BUNCH of electric hand tools that are dirty, grimy, and maybe 50% used up---and off they go to customer mechanics, helpers, kids walking by the open doorway: EVERYBODY is happy.
As for wrenches they are nice donors for those wrenches that eventually you need to cut and weld for this particular bolt, or to take the torch to and bend offset to acces this fitting waaay up inside somewhere.
For general purpose work, and where you are going to knowingly abuse the tools, buying the cheapest thing that holds together makes me feel much less guilty about what I'm doing to them! And if it survives, it can look forward to a long life of home usage by someone I know. Gawd knows I don't need any more! LOL
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Ohh, that guy works in Lomita.
I say 'STICKY' so it's easy to find and reference when the pressure vs velocity arguments get going next....
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Nope, you have it backwards!
When the thermostat is closed, the motive force comes from the water pump.
When the thermostat is open, the motive force comes from a function of the water pump's pressure, and the differential from the lower radiator hose. This is the ONLY practical way to do it, and si how the circuit is designed in the OEM application. The car needs a bypass line anyway, why not use it for cooling the turbo as well.
If you take the source from the upper thermostat housing, you get NO FLOW. The only way to do it without a supplemental pump is to take it from a place where the water pressure is raised by action of the water pump. The only practical places on the engine to do this is the lower thermostat housing (llike OEM), the lower plug on the block between #5&6 cylinder bores (if you have it---and probably the best place considering the temperature there), or the heater connection on the head below #6 (probably the worst place to take it because it's the hottest place on the engine).
Yes, you are bypassing the radiator, there is no way to do it elsewise without serious modifications and reengineering of the coolant flow system. The engine is designed for a bypass hose from the lower thermostat housing circulating uncooled hot fluid back to the inlet in the basic design of the engine, the easiest and most trouble proof way to accomplish the objective is to use THAT circuit to do the cooling.
Like I said, check out the later models Z31's, and how they route the coolant lines for the turbo on the bypass loop. They are not taking it off the pump before the engine, they take it off the engine, towards the end of the cooling loop, and simply recirculate it. Easiest way to do it, and provides the POST COOLING requirement nicely through a thermal siphon action from the lower radiator hose through the turbo and to the HIGH POINT on the engine when the engine is not running---and THAT is when you want coolant flowing.
During engine operation flow is flow, but after shutdown having a circuit that functions from a cool place to a high point where steam bubbles formed in the turbo after shutdown can rise and be dissipated---and my discribed circuit functions in that way. As does the OEM setup.
It does nothing for electric fan operation nor temperature readings...not any more than the OEM stock Bypass Line does anynway. That is a moot point.
This does not impact the thermostat in any way. The bypass line is there from the factory, all you are doing is letting it perform another function. JeffP reports that his engine seems to warm up quicker after installing the line as it allows more internal recirculation before the thermostat opens...quicker warm-ups, that's a good thing, no?
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I'm thinking 7K for max RPM. I know I can build a 20+ psi L28 and get over 400WHP.
When considering JeffP's car, cut your boost in half, and you get the last dyno pulls we did. 10-11psi, 400+ at 7000rpms...
This Friday, final numbers (Z31 ECU and Alternator Diodes Permitting) we will FINALLY finish the ECU mapping vand have full boost figures.
But yeah, on 80 to 110mph pulls, the car was showing over 400hp at 7000rpms. 8.5:1 CR, and the N/A portions of the map were showing well over 300 ft-lbs of torque. It's a very nice build from what I've witnessed thusfar. BTW, even though full on boost threshold is around 3400rpms, no matter where you are in the rpm range below that, you immediately get 3psi when you flog it---makes for that nice torque bump below boost threshold, and augments the 3.0L, as well as 8.5:1 CR performance of an N/A engine.
And if you are lugging or cruising below 3300rpm, when 3400 comes, hold on tight!
Of course Jeff says "It still feels a bit sluggish" below 15psi of boost...
Degrees, it's all a matter of degrees!
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Define "High RPM" power peak at 7 to 7.5K? or higher?
If so, JeffP's current build is looking pretty good.
Get rid of the stroker and run super boosted L28, and make power to 8200 or thereabouts, just like an N/A. Just sie everything accordingly, and make your boost threshold before cam peak power area, and it will react like avery big N/A motor...
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I will lay money someone parting a Fairlady for a "Clip" will want more for it than you can buy the whole car for.
I haven't had to pay more than $1500 for a FairladyZ, and they routinely show up on e-bay in that range as well.
If that's too expensive for you, then getting a clip and putting in all that labor and buying a welder to install it will end up more than the whole car would cost.
To no advantage: the car will not be worth as much as a real Fairlady. Conversions rarely if ever are....
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The upper and lower T-Stat housings; the portion that covers the thermostat is the 'upper' and has the connection for the upper Radiator Hose. The lower T-Stat housing holds the thermostat in a small recess, bolts to the head, holds all your sensors and has all the connections for bypass hoses and auxillary heating coming from it.
So yes, we are talking about the lower portion of the T-Stat Housing.
The other connection is where your lower radiator hose connects to the front cover---the water inlet fitting if you will. It contains a connector for the lower radiator hose, the return from the heater core (15mm), and the bypass circuit return (8 or 10mm depending I think).
-6 is more than enough flow to supply the turbo with water, restrict it to no more than 5 to 8 mm at the WATER INLET END so you have pressure built up in the circuit to prevent flash boiling, same as in the head. So to run the circuit, run your -6 hose from the lower t-stat housing (or the lower fitting on the block under cylinder #5 & 6 if you have it), to the turbo, from the turbo to the water inlet fitting on the front cover of the engine---run it in the bypass hose fitting----sometimes it is an integral diecast piece, other times this fitting is a steel tube welded cojoined with the heater return fitting.
I HAVE seen some people without a heater use the heater connections on the back of the head and at the water inlet---but I think it's too hot there---the water at the lower thermostat housing is actually cooler. And ideally if you have a block with the tap on the lower portion of the block, you will get FAR cooler water from there to supply your turbo.
Restricting the flow at the inlet will insure you only get the flow you need to cool the turbo, and not a freeflow closed circuit.
If you are not running a core in the car, you may simply block those openings---do not connect the head to the inlet---that through a 15mm hose will definately cause overheating issues when it gets hot (does it get hot in Norway?).
If you don't have the 15mm line from the heater, connecting your turbo line to the inlet there is probably the esaiest.
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I wish I could all give you guys a set of Atlas Copco ZR3 Bullgear and Pinion Gear setups! They work great as a geared way to crank those rotisseries around. The Bullgear has a bolt circle on it that adapts to the back of the engine stand head nicely, and you then just tack a place to put the pinion gear and weld your crank handle to it.
Anybody else have an electric rotator ideas? I was thinking of sacrificing a Harbor Freight 800# overhead winch to see if there is an applicable wormgear drive inside that would be adaptable. Being able to hit a button on a pendant to move something while you're settled in and welding to get a better angle would be so much more convienient than having to go crank the thing by hand---I don't want much, do I? LOL
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Drove through on the way back to Menominee/Marinette, ultimately ending in Tawas MI for the evening, and then on to Buffalo NY the following day. Stopped at "The Shrine" to pay hommage on Lombardi Avenue as is my custome when in the area. Made it a point to eat at Mickey-Lu's in Marinette, and pick up 30# of Cheese from Joes Cheese House in Marinette as well!
"A Ways From" is a relative term for me. I was in Sault St. Marie two days before, and Timmins Ontario Canada the day before that! And came "home" with my booty from the Northern Trip to SoCal last Thursday---just in time for the Z-Club Meeting!
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http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120771
Towards the end, turbo cooling is addressed.
Sourcing is on positive pressure side (lower block tap is discussed in my other thread), and return is on lower radiator hose side.
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As for the cooling, you can run it to where ever you like. Ideally, you would tap into the hose leading from the radiator to the t-stat upper housing, by-passing the thermostat. The feed line would come from a source before the coolant enters the block. That way you are not feeding the turbo heated coolant.
Ohhhhh! I couldn't disagree more! You want to take that coolant from the LOWER thermostat housing so it has motive force provided by the water pump. From there the most common routing is to the turbo and then back to the inlet of the engine using the turbo coolant line as the ersatz bypass hose. Even with a 10mm hose there, the recirculation will not hurt cooling, and will actually help the engine warm up faster than using the standard bypass hose configuration which is 8mm I believe.
If you take it from the lower radiator hose, and return it to the upper T-Stat housing there is no motive force, nor any pressure differential to work from and the flow will be stagnant. The ONLY flow through the line would be as coolant in the leg is heated and is moved upwards towards the upper housing (thermal siphon)---that scenario is not a functional coolant circuit.
If you have a secondary pump to move it, fine, but it won't work the way it was described.
You can also (if your block has the provision for it) plumb off the lower side of the block, below the #5/6 cylinder area. This gives you much cooler water from the bottom of the coolant passages, and under pressure from the water pump---but you will still want to return it to the pump inlet. This lower hole is not in all blocks, but it makes some of the plumbing easier as you aren't putting hoses on top of the manifold.
You can also use the original bypass lines to do the cooling, the circuit that formerly heated the Cold Start Aux Air Valve, throttle body, etc is the fitting on the thermostat you want to use---if you don't have those other components, then you were simply adding the bypass line anyway, just loop the old taps to the turbo and back to the inlet on the bypass hose line that comes in the top of the water inlet in conjunction with the heater hose from the cold side of the heater core.
Take a look at the hose routing on the 87-89 VG30ET (those that came with the water-cooled turbo) for a good example of how the OEM routed the turbo coolant lines.
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Turbo, or non-turbo?
Turbo: Doesn't matter, the IC tubing is only 2 or 2.25" in diameter, it fits.
N/A: Doesn't matter, the Cold Air Tubing is only 2.5" in diameter
60mm SXTB: Doesn't Matter, the outer diameter of the body is still only 2.5" in diameter!
As for best boot, I used a silicone turbo hose from Turbo City. But the stock hose will work there as well if you stretch it---just use a new one! The old ones get hard and can crack/break!
Samco Sport also has STEPPED silicone hoses that are one ID on one end, and another ID on the other, that is also a pricier option. The 2.5" Silicone hose I got from Turbo City fit my SX TB fine, and I used a 2.5" to 2" muffler adapter to neck it down to the 2" I/C tubing I was running. On the Fairlady, I used the 2.5" cold air kit from a "Honda Generic Kit" from APC at Pep Boys and it fit just fine, hump hose and all.
Keep in mind, the Honda stuff is really price-competitive, and it WORKS---they don't care what engine is breathing through it! I've found all sorts of nick-nacks that are helpful in fabbing up this kind of stuff.
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The later manifold is nowhere near as "clean" looking as the later, that is for sure.
My bet is that most people are going for cosmetics over function. Again, think about Nissan being able to save 30 yen worth of aluminum (not to mention tooling costs) on EVERY manifold produced.
The later vehicles came with hood vents, yet they still retained the webbing between the manifolds. Just think about the Ford Pinto. Originally engineers dictated the carrige bolts for the gas tank straps be installed from the bottom UP through the straps. During a production review, they realized that if the carrige bolts for the gas tank were dropped in the square holes in the chassis before the tank was hoisted, a simple nutrunner operation was all that was needed to move the car down the line. 30 seconds total installation time for two nuts, compared to almost 90 seconds having to hold the strap with one hand and set the carrige bolt in a sprung holder on the strap...
Just that when impacted, instead of the sharp unprotected ends of the bolts folding OUT towards the bumper, they went UP AND IN to the gas tank, puncturing it!
If Automakers can leave something off a vehicle, they WILL. The webbing is there for a reason---long term heat reduction on the FI components being a major one. With or without hood vents, they had that webbing. 200K+ mile durability...
Just a thought to consider before you start re-engineering an already good system.
As for 'clean install' I took a Non-EGR P82 and used it, instead. I think it's cleaner than the N42, and gives you much more space to get to the turbo when doing anything in that area.
Considering A Portable Sand Blaster - Your Recommendations?
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Yeah, I see that now. Ceramic Nozzles wear better than the metal ones. You just have to keep replacing them if you use excessive pressure and agressive media. You can get nice deadman's handles at the places where they sell the name brand stuff, and in some cases at rental yards where they rent the stuff. It's really clamped down here in SoCal as you need an AQMD Permit for portable sandblasting rigs... So parts aren't as readily available as they once were. But once you get a source, use it!