Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Those likely are aftermarket sleeves, installed for one reason or another. They are not stock. My bet is if you blueprint the deck height on the block you will find the height is shorter referencine crankshaft centerline to deck height from the decking operation after installing dry liners.
This was a common procedure for JDM engines when bores got too close to the wall thickness limitations of the skimpy walled F54. That's why most JDM builders specify N42 Blocks for big bores: much thicker walls when overboing 2mm+.
Chances are good the machinist who bored the block tested the cylinders and found the support lacking, so decided to sleeve the bores with higher quality materials of sufficient thickness to support expected loads at the bore diameter desired.
L20A blocks would be overbored and LD28 Liners installed to make 2.4L engines (using the L24 Crank) without moving the vehicle's tax class from the 2-Litre Rating in the JDM. Same thing here on the F54 I'm betting---walls as-cast were simply too thin, so they linered the block instead of looking for another one, or getting the N42 which the internet myths say "are terrible"...
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Like they say "the sound of a sizzling steak is what you are looking for" Takes some time for me to get mine set up for this thickness or that, but once it's set (and having something that has more adjustability like start high amperage and then drop it down for the rest of the bead) mkes for really easy welding. For my tastes, I haven't gotten the bag of MIG so much, and will TIG as much as I can. I have to pull wires to the shed from the feeder for my 100A 220 Breaker Box. Already have a dedicated 30A 220 out there for the Compressor and/or the Plasma Cutter, should have had the 100A pulled then.
And the Edison guys went "Why in the world do you want 250A service to a Mobile Home?"
Hey man, I only sleep in it, the rest is for everything BUT the house! LOL
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The way the regulator works, the initial pressure is arrived at by a spring pressure against a diaphragm, pushing a needle valve against a seat. Fuel pressure pushes against the seat, and when it overcomes the spring pressure present, the valve cracks, bleeding off excess pressure down the return line.
Now, put a vacuum line on the regulator, and manifold vacuum works on the same side of the diaphragm as the spring. This works with a net effect as lessening the spring's effective pressure against the seat, making it bleed off at a lower pressure. Conversely, you have (under boost) boost pressure+ spring pressure raising the fuel pressure.
The stock FPR therefore will give confusing reading to people who don't understand how it works. They don't understand why with 'key on' but not running the thing makes 40psi, but when idling it only makes 36psi. Knowing now how it works, it becomes obvious that the pressure adding to or subtracting from the preset spring pressure is what is making the different pressures. In the case of 'key on' being higher than idle pressure, in effect what you are simulating is "0" manifold pressure at that point, the same pressure present at WOT in a N/A engine, and that is at least 18" of Hg higher pressure (roughly 9psi) than at idle.
Anyway, the only limit would be burst pressure of the diaphragm. I have a spare....now I'm curious as well.... Mechanical failure will probably not be an issue. What will be more apt is what Clifton alludes to: if you have a fuel pump capable of supplying the flow for a 45psi Turbo Engine, the small orifices of the stock return lines on the stock FPR will most likely be more of a problem than mechanical integrity.
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I'm missing something here: where did you get the idea that the F54 has liners?
Is this from the parts manual, showing liners?
They have that for ALL the L-Engines. They are service replacement units, if an engine looses a piston and damages one bore at low mileage you can repair the block to standard specification without replacing all six pistons by using one of the service replacement liners to restore standard bore dimensions on the damaged cylinder without having to overbore all six and the resultant component costs.
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"1) The interference fit of the piston pint to small end of the rod, HOLDS the piston pin from ever walking over to the cylinder bore and scoring it…"
I will say you may need to revise that portion of the statement.
Until our overhaul of the Bonneville engine two years ago, I thought the exact same thing.
Matter of fact, so did everyone else who we showed our block to after the pins walked out to the wall and put an 0.080" score down each bore.
Pressed pin setup, done at a competent machinist facility in L.A. well known for Nissan Engine Work (not their fault, so I'm not naming names, everything else they did was pristine, and we did final assemlby of subcomponents ourselves)
Still made 300+ to the rear wheels at 8300rpm, blowing by like a mother. And took two more records at Bonneville (final was 173.325mph) that year before retirement and building of the current L20A.
Granted that was after four seasons of running at redline, but it CAN happen.
That information posted by Phred is VERY interesting to me. Very interesting approach to the problem. BTW our rods were race prepped Nissan units, and you know how thick those ends are with a 22mm pin in them.
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Opel GT, eh....
I got a 70 waiting for rebirth...
Let me know how that swap fits.
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I don't think the filter on the pump inlet side will do anything to help with fuel starvation. If you uncover the in tank inlet you are still going to suck a slug of air into the filter. The only way to get the air out of filter is to run it through the pump.
Actually, if the filter is oriented correctly, with a tube to the bottom of the filter element for the pickup, and the inlet side just dumping fuel to the area circumfrentially around the filter...any 'sucked air' would remain at the top of the filter housing...
With slight modifications such as running the return line into the top of the filter, and then back out to the tank, any sucked air would be bled back to the tank... it's basically a switl pot/surge tank at that point, but modification of the Fram filter to that configuration is VERY easy with some barbed fittings, a drill and a tap...
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Yes, BRAAP summed up what I was getting at. If you talk with Ron at Isky, you will find that even they had different ramps. Their old early 70's grinds were basically just V8 profiles put on a Nissan Blank. This is why Racer Brown Cams were THE mod to have for serious racers in the early days. Eventually when he got his degree and started development work in the late 70's after his time in the service they totally changed the way they ground Nissan Cams to great effect.
Even to this day, Raon will tell you they get "Grind X" from some builder, and it's a direct copy of one of their early grinds.
Some grinders do an Assymetric Grind, some don't. Nissan DID. And for good reason, it allows more power (like Braap said) with less valve hysterisis.
If you have duration at 050 on a symmetric cam, it's effective duration is actually quite a bit less than the same cam ground assymetrically. And valvetrain stability will be better with the Assymetric grind. To get the equivalent time 'under the ramp' as Braap put it on a symetric cam, your lobe profile simply would not be functionally possible, or would be very unstable in regards to valvetrain stability...let's not even get into lost power from heavy springs to control symetric ramps...
You will never get the whole story from a cam grinder, you will have to buy it's product, test it, and then decide.
I buy from Isky, frankly, because Ron knows his poop when it comes to Datsun Cam Profiles. When I asked questions of him, he didn't get offended but like any good engineer gave me the straight engineering analysis of why the grind he suggested would be better for what I was doing than what I had envisioned.
I referred JeffP to him, with distinct instructions: Don't tell him what you think your ideal cam will be, tell him what you want and let him tell you and see if you agree with it. Jeff called me after their conversation and remarked that the duration, timing, etc were VERY close to what he thought he should have---though Ron's recomendation was more agressive on lift. Some guys will steer their conversation towards what you want to hear, but Ron won't. he has very specific ideas (backed up by experience) on what will work---and more importantly why.
I didn't want this to sound like an Ad for Isky, but of the people I have talked to very few impressed me with their honesty and straightforward talk. Ron is one of those. And that means a lot to me.
I digress...
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I know for a fact they are good for at least 300 rwh.In the JWT kits they claim 450 flywheel HP, personally I think 320 rwh would be pushing it with these injectors.
Well, being JeffP made 415 to the rear wheels with those injectors, you may want to rethink that estimate.
Up the fuel pressure to 4 bar, and that will do it. It did for JeffP.
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Why is a full floating pin running without a bushing 'not an option'? Plenty of people do that, looking at it one way the bushing is nothing more than insurance, looking at it another way, the bushing is just something else to fail.
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Kroil. In the orange can with black typeface. Miracle oil when it comes to dissolving rust-fuzz in cylinders and corrosion on aluminum of all sorts.
Marvel is also good, but Kroil 'it's the oil that kreeps'---superpenetrant. Gets everywhere. But not nearly as cheap as Marvels. I scam if off my jobs, otherwise it's like $9+ per aerosol can!!!
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USFRA
Utah Salt Flats Racing Association.
Holds monthly events, and has STREET CLASSES so you aren't buildinga totally tubed and parachuted unstreetable Bonnie-Blitzer...
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I missed this first time round, but Drax's point of 1km/sec loading is what we do for the final pull on the Bonneville Car (more like 5km/s). We set it all up for power, then put the hella load on it as we know it will accelerate fine through the first mile, and be almost to top speed, within 5mph likely. But the next two miles on the course, we expect to pick up 1 to 2mph per mile (2-3Km/h in almost 15 seconds, hence the 5 km/s).
It really kept us from getting any suprises like a fuel flow lean condition, wiers electrical harmonics, how it performed at the dyno is how it performed (altitude compensated) at the Salt. Very little known tuning trick, good that it was posted. How I missed this post, I'l never know. Worth the bump, IMO!
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WOAH! 25 WATT?
i think my pullup is a 1 watt. maybe 1/2 watt.
You may not be doing much current limiting with a 25 watt resistor. I don't know that it needs to be that big to pullup the optical signal from teh dizzy.
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One day, ooone day, someone will post the specs that actually have any mean whatsoever for a cam. That is, the 0.05" duration.
That may give a standard of measurement, but is GROSSLY misleading, especially in a forced induction cam. .050" lift is flowing a LOT of air under pressure. And with the assymetrical ramps Nissan uses (Ron can tell you loads about that little quirk) the numbers at .050 are as useless as the gross numbers used by others because different grinders (if they grind assymetrical at all) may alter the ramp rate as well. Also important are the valve opening events, and the stagger from the ramps that minimize overlap, or increase it.
There is a link to a website somewhere that has all the old Racer Brown technical articles. Anyone trying to understand how a camshaft works in an L-Engine should really read that site (http://www.datsport.com/Racer_Brown_Menu.html) What Racer Brown pioneered in the early 70's was relearned and quantified by Ron in the later 70's after he got out of the USAF and got his engineering degree and started doing cam development work for Electramotive's racers.
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The easiest thing is to buy one of those miniature K&N filters (like for a keychain) they have them down to 1/4" line size. And cap your flow control vavle, or the stock vent line with the filter. This allows you to keep you gastank vented through a filtered air source. Many have done it.
The 260's and later have the carbon cannister, before that it was 'crankcase accumulation' and the gas vapors from the tank when sitting on a hot day were vented to the crankcase, eliminated during startup by the PCV system.
I have moved the carbon cannister to the wheelwell, as well as replacing the Datsun Cannister with a Geo Metro Cannister (much smaller).
For the early cars, all you need is a filter on the line---that makes it equivalent to the JDM 432R Race Spec with the filler tube overflow vent to the wheelwell!
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Water Temperature Sender is a straight thread. I want to say an M10 or M12. I know when I tapped my manifold for one, I had the tap in my Craftsman kit, and it was not a tapered pipe thread, just a standard metric straight thread.
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Oh come on now, guys! How many counterweights do you have?
Airfoil shape the first one to lift one way, then shape the next to lift the other way....thrust bearing wear is therefore balanced!
The odd man out on odd-counterwieghted crankshafts would always be the forward most one, where you do the conventional knife-edging. It will only splash through the oil on heavy braking annyway, so you want the engine braking that oil provides anways...
Where did I put my boots?
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I know what ya mean. No I sold that car before I went to desert Shield/Storm back in 1990. I really enjoyed it as I brought it back from Okinawa in 1986. I had alot of fun with the right hand drive. In and Out burger was fun because I didnt have to slide across the seat to get my food!
That engine was an L28 bored to 2.9 with 44MM Solex Carbs and Headers. Ran 14.5 at 92 or 93 MPH if memory serves me correctly. Ran out at Carlsbad all the time in Cali back then. Had a 5 speed in it. Was pretty fast for a NA 6. I rememebr beating a mustang at the track at one time...haha.
Terry
How in the world was it we never crossed paths? My 73 looks a lot like that to this day. My flares were done when Roger Puffer (400MMS Kadena AFB) had the car on Okinawa in 81 (Done at AY-Body outside KAB Gate 4 on Rte 58 next to the Bimbo Bakery). I bought it off him when hard times hit (Divorce) and he needed money fast. I painted it Black, Added the G-Nose, as well as Triple Mikuini 44's Blown Through with a T-Series Turbo. Gone when I got the car was Rogers neat addition of Corvette Popup headlights in the Hood, with Glased over Nacelles! Shame, it was some nice work by A-Y...
I rotated stateside in 89, and brought the car with me. And was down at Carlsbad regularly from about mid-91 till about a year before they shut the gates. Regularly is at least once a month in my book...given my travel schedule! I may have seen your car around The Rock...there is something familiar about it...
Not wanting to threadjack, just got shocked when I saw the car photos and then read the background! Just amazed how many Oki-Car guys there are around here! LOL
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Del West.
Ferra.
Any number of valve manufacturers on this side of the pond can replicate that tuliped stainless vavle easily.
I doubt they get them from "Japan" either, they say that because it's believable, but most of the pieces parts relating to internal high performance is sourced locally (i.e. inside the USA). If it's a 99996-XXXX number, chances are good you can find the source here stateside.
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Mags and spiral core metallic cored wires can/will get picked up in your interface cable, and give random garbage bits that get misinterpreted by the computer's comm chip.
I had this problem with my MS setup---hell having an AC power cord close to the data acquisition cord (even at a right angle) caused me problems.
Make sure any backshell on any of the cables is metallic and properly grounded to the shield of the cable at the dyno end... or the computer end, I forget which...it's an either / or situation.
Good Luck. I almost bought a Stuska, they were the standard for the VW industry. Those were good to around 500Hp as I recall, depending on which brake and strain gauge combination you got.
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Actually, the VATN turbos use a 5 Amp PWM curcuit to drive their vane actuator, so you use the MS to PWM control the boost at lower rpm levels, and then use a conventional wastegate over 5000 rpms.
Below that, the VATN will control boost pretty well by varying the vane angles and A/R. Problem is they are usualy .83 and larger (like 1.06 A/R) on the hot side....
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There is a reason why you see a damper on the crankshaft of every street driven engine you look at and virtualy all other engines you look at, so yes there would be a problem. Without re-writing the book what would happen is your engine would vibrate itself to pieces, its not worth the couple of bucks you save in the short term.
Dragonfly
Not to shake the tree here, nor split hairs, but the original L20A's did not use a harmonic dampner till 1976. They used a two-groove solid cast iron pulley to that point. Flat-Four VW's use a solid 'equalizer' pulley, not a harmonic dampner, in high performance applications. Stock, they had a stamped steel pulley! The shortness of the VW crank overall keeps torsionals under control, this coupled with bulletproof cross sectional diameters on crank throws and cheeks of the crank keeps it all rigidly tied together.
We have found the short stroke L20 does not have the same pulse problem that the longer stroke, torque producing motors have. It's all a function of the crank's arm, and the torque it can apply during the power stroke.
L28ET's that rev will eat up the dampner much faster than a stock L24 running to 7000 on a regular basis.
I'll admit it, I like the tree shaking and hair splitting, I just HAD to put it out there....Pay no attention to the man behind the curtian!
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DAMN!
You killed Kenny!
YOU BASTARDS!
;^P
FMU/RRFPR with Megasquirt? And what fuel pressure?
in MegaSquirt
Posted
Yes, the limitation on bypass will the the orifice size in the regulating needle.jet combination---as flow increases beyond bypass capability pressure rises.
This is how RRFPR's work, incidentally, along with some pneumatic amplyfication relay functions, which I don't EVEN want to get into!
But yeah, at the limit it would "go safe" by raising fuel pressure. With larger fuel injectors, you may run into pulsation issues, check out JeffP's installation of an aftermarket pulsation dampner to smooth out pressure fluctuations and make the regulator action more smooth.