Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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If you had a short, it would blow the fuse...ask me how I learned the rear marker lights are not an "idiot proof" plug-n-play hookup! Heavy draw doesn't equate, but there may be a bad ground that causes a big draw where normally it would be minimal.
sounds like you are draining the battery with the lights on, and that your alternator is not charging.
You should have 13.8V with the engine running at about 2200+ rpm. If you don't see that across your battery terminals, put it on a charger, get the battery fully charged, and then check again.
If you don't have 13.8-14.2VDC at the battery when racing the engine above the flash point on the alternator (the point where it self-excites) then your voltage regulator or alternator is kaput.
You should never see only 12V on a 12V battery! Counterintuitive, I know, but a 12V should read 13.8V fully charged.
Good Luck, Man! Gremlins...it's how they tried to win the war! They put Gremlins in the electrical panels of our B17's. But this Kentucky Harvester.....
LOL
Forgot to answer your question: find all the points in the circuit that can cause a draw. Disconnect them ALL. Replace your fues with your Ammeter leads so you can monitor the draw on the circuit. Start plugging in each individual connection and seeing if you find one with a particularly big draw. Make notes on which connection caused what draw when connected. They should all add up to what you get when you hook them all in. Same way you find a short, but make sure your ammeter has internal fusing so if you hit a draw above 10A, your internal fuse will pop, and not fry your meter. Most are fused these days, even Harbor Freight and Korean Junk... Again, good luck!
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I will confirm, the change in the door glass carrier mechanisim for US Spec Vehicles was 7/76. up to 6/76 you can change it around. But when that striker went internal, the carrier and glass shapes changed on the bottom.
Now if you have access to Fairlady Z's... they have the same carriers and glass 69 to 77. Why oh why...They got skinny bumpers till the end on 72 style brackets as well. Lucky Bastiges!
I got six 260Z doors. I should probably sell some of this stuff some time, huh? But I'm in SoCal, and your in "shudder" Toledo...
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Exactly Ron! I am 'the devil in Jeff's Ear' when it comes to these things, and he already knows what Electromotive used for their manifold, and has had his head ported to match that setup. he has the basic manifold, only requirement is to make some conversion pieces to the plenum. But after the last test (535 RWHP with an aborted pull to only 6300, when his power peak was around 7K) at only 20psi literally has him now asking "how much is too much". With him running the car in fourth gear at boost threshold rpm, and romping it ...the chassis flex combined with the way the quaife differential hooks with my bulk as ballast... the car literally wants to change lanes HARD!
He's now questioning wether he 'needs' the 30psi he planned everything around. He's already at his crank horsepower goals well below the boost he projected he thought he would need.
As I have always said, boost is merely an indication to restriction to flow!
With that lower restriction manifold setup, I'd figure Jeff's engine would make some massive power with FAR less indicated boost than he now is seeing.
It's a funny dichotomy: people want big boost numbers thinking it means big horespower. But when you really correctly prep the engine, you don't NEED humongo boost levels to reach big power!
And it must be said: Jeff is hard-headed! He wanted to make 600hp on the stock Z31 ECU, and using an engine that for all intents and purposes could be made to pass the visual smog check requirements in CA. To his credit, he's stuck it out, and is sooooo close to the goal he can taste it. If it wasn't for some limitations imposed by the injectors he's using he'd be there already. But his trailblazing has resulted in the invention of a neat circuit that RADICALLY improves the response of large injector opening and closing events. I shouldn't say any more, but as Jeff says, "That little standalone circuit could be added to any control circuit for injectors and it should really improve the resolution for people using larger injectors."
Myself, I'm laying in drums of waste oil, and have found my supplier of refractory cement. I will probably have a waste-oil fired blast furnace capable of batch quantities to cast my own manifolds before the end of the year. Of coure, it will be totally illegal to operate...but then again, they have to catch me using it...
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Yes, you can configure the output on the MS to work within a specified Temperature range (say above 170 degrees F, like stock) and within a specified range (again, above 1500 rpms, like stock). This way the output from the MS signals a relay (I don't know if the output can srive a solenoid directly, I doubt it!) to signal a solenoid that allows manifold vacuum to the EGR diaphragm. This will allow stock EGR metering just like stock.
There is not section in the CVC regarding instrumentation, but recently there has been an "Educational Campaign" in the Law Enforcement Community that uses "signals" for a stop and reasons to search further. It involved how to recognize 'Tuner' vehicles---i.e. those that likely have illegal modifications. These hints and giveaways were things like "Gauge Pods", "Front Mounted Intercoolers", "Larger Exhaust Pipes", and generalizations like "Accessorized Underhood Detailing"---the CHP was advised that if they saw these things to CITE the vehicle, and send it in to a Referee Station for a Compliance Check. This is within their purview as outlined in the CVC.
So you get cited bacuse you have gauges. It doesn't mean they are ILLEGAL, but it means in the training session they went through it was given as a "probable cause for suspicion for illegal modifications" which is along the original line of reasoning given to him---it was just misstated, or blatantly lied about.
If they pull you over and THINK you have modified the vehicle to be outside of compliance, they CAN cite you and send you to the Referee.
So can your fellow citizen by calling a toll-free number, identifying himself, and giving the 1-800-CUT-SMOG people your vehicle description and tag number, saying they see black smoke pouring out your tailpipe when you passed, and saying it smelled like a gasoline station on fire...in a few days you get a nice letter from the DMV that says report in XX hours or your vehicles' license will be suspended, and that continued registration is contingent upon successful completion of the Referee Station Inspection.
Of course, that can also generate a 'random out of cycle testing' letter as well. After several automotive company employees got tagged with 'random testing' requests for EVERY VEHICLE THEY OWN after their cars were featured in a Tuner Performance Magazine with their plates in clear view, and names/city/county up in print...the mags decided it was best to blank out those numbers, and maybe be more 'generic and nebulous' with locale information. (These poor bastards were tagged with having to pay smog for several vehicles, including their company-leased vehicles for their wife and themselves, for three years running after their cars showed up in the magazines! Paranoia is a GOOD thing when dealing with the BAR, in that case Big Brother REALLY IS watching!)
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The japanese commonly bored the block and installed the L24 crank / piston combos using LD28 Diesel Sleeves. This gives you an L24 in an L20A block that will run the OEM 300,000+ miles with ease.
most they would do on the stock bores was 2.XXXcc's---around 2300 cc's.
The diesel service liners are a long term, stable solution when you want to fool someone with a block casting. As long as they don't capacity check a cylinder, and only go by block casting numbers, you will skate fine!
Come to think of it, using the Diesel Oversize liners, and an L28 crank, you should probably be over 2600 cc's, but that is about it.
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If you want to get a 'better' connector, find yourself a VG30. The connector in the bottom of their distributor is identical to the one in the one you have. The connector on the end where yours is white (ours is a round four pronger) is a grey weatherpack connector. if you 'harvest' both connectors from the VG engine (Turbo or N/A) on the 'grey' end, you will have a connector that is much more waterproof, and is easier to attach and separate.
But yeah, that's a "Late" optical trigger CAS. 82/83
Cheers!
Actually, thinking about this, I would much rather have that white plug than the round plug we got!
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Cool...
I guess the only question that remains is "where do you want your power"?
Most will peak those numbers between 55 and 6300 rpm. With that boost level (JeffP was at 415 RWHP at 23 I believe)...
Changing basically turbos and cams made a serious jump to well over 100 more RWHP, at 5 psi less boost.
He's scared to change the intake from the extrude-honed stocker at this point... It becomes "how much will it really make with a 10% increase in flow through the runners?"
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from testing my zxt engine it usually had high nox with out operating egr.if you lean it out nox will go up.hc is no problem with a well tuned engine and a cat convertor.but i think there is an extra programmable output on ms that could run a egr solonoid.an external speed actvated switch to kill the egr circuit and program the ms to switch the circuit depending on manifold vacuem and water temp.
Exactly, Randy! One of the programmable I/O's will work the EGR just fine. Especially if you follow the same parameters listed in the FSM.
For my 260 Project, the initiation comes from the speed sensor in the speedo head and the 'third gear switch' in the tranny. So it will function and to casual observers look exactly like a stock set of flat top SU's running an incredibly strong matching numbers 'L26'.
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If you pull the cap off you will find one of four possible interiors which do not change:
"Spiky Ringed Wheel" = Conventional Dissy, with "Black Box" on the exterior (or simply some wires if it's a 260/280Z)
"Nothing"= 81 ET dissy, needs the Airconditioner Bracket Mounted CAS unit for the ECU to function, it's only function is purely to DISTRIBUTE the spark.
"Chromate Cap with small screws"= 83/82 CAS Dissy Assy.
"Points and Rubbing Block"= RUN AWAY RUN AWAY RUN AWAY! Discard and replace with Lumenition, Perlux, or whatever you want but get rid of mechanical breaker points!
That's all you need to do for the quick check. No need to remove the chromated cover---if it's in there, it's a CAS. If it's just the diecast bottom of the dissy, it's somewhere other (81)
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Man Prefab Rails...what is the world coming to?
I made mine using a bench edge, then welded them in with a torch...while under the car...
Times change, huh?
Sounds like they are a stout product. I made mine out of the same thickness steel as OEM. They are still there 20 years later. But I moved from Japan to SoCal, so longevity of repair parts left untreated on the backside should be good...
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What HP are you shooting at?
Shopping by price and come back to bite you.
Determine your needs, then decide on the components that will meet those needs. Do it honestly, and not on dreams.
Then buy the parts that reach the goal. Cost will be what the cost will be...you are going at it kind of backwards IMO.
Ask the question "what do I need" to reach the goal. Not "what do I want on the car"...
Kind of like boost. Guys are continually asying "I want to run 30psi..."
Why? Because someone else said so? Because it sounds correct? Cool?
Granted the stock manifold doesn't flow 200CFM per runner, but then again will you need that on your build?
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Wow, 56$. Hell for that much why would I bother to weld my own...
And they have more! Also T3-T4 straight adapter flanges as well.
Hmmmm. http://www.auctionsniper.com, my snipes, item number.....
LOL
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The 81 has the bock/A-C mounted CAS.
The 82/83 has the distributor mounted CAS.
They both have the same plug, and are interchangable.
The black plastic box on the exterior is a standard dissy.
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LOL Mario!
But right on the mark!
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So, more spark retard and more fuel? I assume that this is really bad for my turbo and exhaust?
SDS mentioned in the manual that alot of spark retard and extra fuel at the lowest map value would give it basic anti-lag. But would destroy turbos.
Absolutely! I could get 15psi+ at 1500rpm flatfooted at the line, using a button to give full predetermined spark retard. Launch under full boost.
Exhaust turbine will melt.
You blow holes in the hot-side scroll because of pressure buildup in a melting-hot glowing red/white/yellow turbine housing.
Not for the meek of heart. But if you have hook, and can take off out of the hole hard, it's not like launching any normal turbo car!
Exhaust should make a difference past the headpipe---as long as you're stainless steel.
On my .43A/R housing, I would get 17psi at 1700 rpm if I floored it in any gear. I would get 10psi off-idle! But that was not due to retard and fuel, that was just a small A/R...that thing was 'all in' at 5500rpm. No reason to rev past 6000. Acted more like a Supercharged car, than a Turbocharged car. When I had that car dynoed, the guy had it on a Clayton In-Ground unit and was cruising at 60mph in fourth gear. He put a load on the engine, and the boost went WHAM! Straight to 17psi and the clutch went "poof" instantaneously. Dyno operator said "Sorry about your clutch, I've never seen a turbo come on that hard before!" LOL
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Try a Corvair---no boost in first or till above 3500 in second gear!
You won't get full boost till third under WOT conditions...
If you don't have a standalone that can anti-lag or give some spark retard different than the stock map, that is all you will get.
With a standalone, you can easily get full boost off-idle with enough retard and fuel...basically turning the turbine section into a gas-turbine instead of waste-recovery turbine.
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Actually, Pete, you are probably over pressure ratio on your supercharger when the throttle plate is closed, and the air is actually that hot!
Industrial Oil-Free Screw Compressors run 260-350 degrees loaded on the first stage with 30psi interstage pressure, but when they unload, if the bypass screw around the throttle plate is not correctly adjusted the temperature SOARS instantly to well over 455F! Soon as that plate is cracked a bit, the pressure ratio across the element drops, and the temps come back down to the allowable range.
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All emissions equipment must be in place and functional to pass the visual/functional testing.
Until the 35 Collector's Visual Exemption comes into being... That only affects 73's now... A few more years for you car to be in that program. Then it only matters what comes out the tailpipe---the way it should have been in the first place.
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Most cars will run fine and pass emissions on an 8X8 table. 12X12, and 16X16 is really only there for the emissions requirements of an OEM---it's a lot of 'extra load point programming' that really doesn't need to be there, IMO. So that's really a moot point. Wigert got the Vector to pass US OEM Emissions Requirements with an 8X8 TEC2 system...and that was a 650HP Twin Turbo V8!
With what I've seen, the Z31 swap is as involved as the MS, and with all the extra stuff you need to have to program it, the MS is as plug-n-play if not more so than the Z31 conversion.
There are mods and extra stuff required for both system to work, it's not like you simply plug in a Z31 ECU and start tuning.
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Hell I haven't had time to do tuning, much less inquisitive testing like I want to do! >:^(
There was a time, in the early 90's....
I had this job with LOTS of free time, PLENTY of pay, and that gave me unlimited access to all sorts of analytical instrumentation, complete with a private road to drive on all day Sunday---nice uphill run for load testing.
That ended November 1st, 1993. For me, as well as 1499 of my compatriots at the same company all over the USA...
Since then, travel jobs...
Heavy Travel Jobs....
Though I still have some "neat tools" from the old job laying about. Mostly stuff I "upgraded" while there, and took the "old, outdated, obsolete for our purposes" stuff home! That hand held Omega Thermocouple Reader and assortment of probes is one of them. Actually, my wife probably has the most accurate Hard Candy Thermometer on the face of the planet (which is it's most recent 'found use around the house'). LOL!!!
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You think that is neat, I was in THE last area of the LA Basin taht still had only a static Idle and 2500 test. When my wife went into get her 2000 Frontier tested, they guy rolled it up on the dyno, punched in the registration information....and went "Huh! Well this will be easy!" and then did the "Old Test"... Three miles in almost any direction and I would have had to Dyno Test.
Then it all changed as people squeezed out to my area.
As it will for you one day. Problem will be there, it will go from nothing straight to Dyno Testing. Be ready for the wakeup call!
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Oh, I want video! Especially at 173.325mph with a G-Nose, and belly pan! LOL
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I used .035 Wall T304L Stainless Steel.... But then again, I get surplus 20 foot sticks from completed jobs for free, so what else would I use? LOL
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I'm going to call B.S. on the gauge as well. It does not alter the emissions, and is only an indicating gauge. Someone was B.S.-ing you that day. They will do that!
On another aside, I got an enthusiastic call from someone down in Long Beach two days ago about their "Turbo Maxima"! I had told him the procedure for getting it referreed, and he did it. The guy was amazed how EASY it was.
To put it simply:
Engine same year or newer than the chassis.
All required items for pollution control in place and functioning.
As long as it passes the roller test, you get your certificate and door panel sticker forever more!
Some of his quotes:
"Those guys just looked around the engine bay, and it all looked stock, we put EVERYTHING in there from the ZX."
"I'm amazed how easy it was!"
It's really not that hard to be legal. It just takes some attention to detail. Now he has a Turbo 83 Maxima!
And of course, now he's thinking of converting the windshield washer reservior for Methanol Injection, putting a bigger Turbo on, and hiding a MS unit using stock wiring. "They will never know!" A man after my own heart! LOL
Any NISMO experts on this site
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
E-Mail Nismo in Nashville (shudder) and they can tell you the sourcing and probably the specs on the parts. They should, at least.