Tony D

My advice would be to keep whatever throwout and pressure plate combination you have in your current transmission if it is servicable. Personally I sap over to L28 Components on everything I have, but this thing about the throwout collar following the tranny is a dangerous myth. The throwout collar is mated to the pressure plate it is used with. The throwout arm geometry, pivot ball, and collar guide are all the same. It's not the tranny that determines what throwout bearing collar you need to use, it's the diaphragm srping height on the pressure plate! Check out the LD28, because of it's thicker flywheel, the collar (though it's a five speed of late manufacture) uses the early 240 collar with a later 280 style diaphragm! Confused? Maybe I shouldn't bring that up, but it bears repeating that the clutch cover you use is what has to have a compatible throwout bearing collar. As long as you either use all the PP/TO components from the existing setup, or from the donor setup, you will do fine! Start swapping things around, and you will pay a price in another tranny removal because the tranny either won't go INTO gear (collar too short for pressure plate) or wont move (collar too long for pressure plate)... With that, you know know what to expect if you go wrong in the selection of mismatch components! LOL

Bakelite sheeting also works fine, and it's a wood product...

The stock CAS is only about 10 degrees shy of a simple "crank it and go" installation like the 82/83 setup. Someone just has to take the time to pull the CAS off and figure out how much they have to grind from the bracket to allow that adjustment, and it will be far simpler than I did it. But you will be limited to 40 or so total advance degrees. Just as a forewarning! You don't have to pull the pulley, but it was the only way I could think to do it with a engineered exactitude. I knew the slots were X degrees apart, and pulling the pulley didn't seem like abig job to me. If pulling the pulley seems like a big job to you, you need to SERIOUSLY reconsider ANY modification to the fuel system beyond the stock setup. ANY of the modifications you propose take FAR more than a simple drop swap n go kind of retrofit! They will all take effort. Wether you want it on the front end in following directions and preparation, or the back end in aggravation and items detonating to oblivion, there WILL be aggravation and effort involved. I guess the big question for any system you install will ultimately be: How FLEXIBLE will it be to suit your needs now, but MORE IMPORTANTLY: In the FUTURE? Can you move it to any other vehicle you buy if an accident happens? How well has it worked with other people's setups, and do they have proof or simply subjective commentary? Is the cost for the system front ended or backended. That is, once you get teh ECU, how much time/money is blown getting it to FIT?

Overkill in a massive way. Most of the sensor wires need be no larger than 20 gauge, and the injector wires are well within safety margin at 16 gauge, probably even 18. Aircraft Spruce will sell you nice Tefzel Insulated MilSpec wiring reasonably, in about any gauge you want. They also have the SHIELDED wire in the smaller gauges we have suggested for the TPS and O2 sensor lead to keep noise from interfering with our harmonious EFI Squirting! I believe I am using a 14 gauge power wire, though it might be 12! Been a while. I know it's Tefzel insulated, though! LOL

Just follow my lead, and use the 81 components. It really works well now... I had miscounted my advance teeth. After installing it correctly, all my maladies went away. If you use an N/A distributor, you will have to lock the dizzy advance down so it can't do anything, then use the reluctor pickup to trigger another HEI module, or an MSD---seems like a lot of work when you already have all you need right there ready to plug n play... If you are scared about modifying the timing disc, I haven't checked close enough on mine yet, but the stock CAS bracket might have juuuuuuuuust enough adjustability to get you the total advance you need if you take the CAS off and trim the mounting bracket to it lets the CAS move further "up" the bracket for a bit more advance. You only need about 10 more degrees than the stock bracket allows for, not really that much trimming involved! I believe JeffP mentioned the Techedge WBO2 unit from Australia...

I have mine mounted to the back of the relay box (under the board, actually) using the relay box for a heat sink, mounted to the body nameplate location just behind the strut tower, and have not had overheating problems as of yet. Cheap modules seem to have more problems than the aftermarket units. Once I put the Perlux Flame Thrower in there, a lot of the spark issues (weak spark IMO) went away totally. I carry a can of FREEZ-IT in every EFI car I have (even the 2000 Frontier!) because this will tell you IMMEDIATELY if it's heat related to a component. If it takes 20 mins with the hood up to restart, chances are good it's heat related. Drive around till it does it again, ZAP the component with a bath of FREEZ-IT and if you start right away, you determined the cause. Then determine WHY it's overheating (wrong location, inferior component, improper mounting/heatsinking) and you're through!

Yes, and to answer the question that begs to be asked on our Bonneville 2-Litre "Why not just use an S20?" we would LOVE to do that, it can make the 320HP and give us the speed we need easily, unfortunately the rules for "production class" dictate that 500 examples of any given model used in competiton had to be available within a production year, and alas the 432 would not qualify. Otherwise THAT would be the direction we would go. So as it stands, we wait to see what this does on the dyno, and hope the cam stays put for those runs at least. If the power is not there, it will be a short season in G-Pro... >:^(

"Tony you yourself have had NUMEROUS headaches getting MS installed and running. MS has it's own forum for that very reason... yeah it's relatively cheap but it's a complicated system." That really is not a fair comparison Bastaad. i was the first to use the system in MY application. Had I chosen to go the route Moby took, suing an 82/83 setup, it is a plug-n-play setup, no harder than any other system. I was actually running within 15 mintues of starting the system when you look at it. But having gone the route of the RRFPR, and Stock N/A electronics, I would NEVER do it again! Same can be said for going with a blow-through triple carburetion system. The difference between my comments and many here saying the MS is "hard" and holding my case out as an example is that GIVEN THE PATH I TOOK, I would STILL recommend the MS setup over ANY tweaking of the stock system. Until you have actually HAD an adjustable fuel and spark delivery system on the car, and GOTTEN RID of the NUMEROUS HEADACHES common in "tweaked" setups, you can't begin to understand why we make the suggestions we do! I would NEVER consider tweaking stock electronics now that MS is Viable, and TESTED with CLEAR instructions for the install. And the reason MS has a forum here is to HELP the ininitiated SHARE our EXPERIENCE. Withthe commonality of questions about Tec2, Tec3, and SDS programming, should we all draw the conclusion they are also a "pain" to install? It's all relative. MY case is unique because I may be gone for MONTHS at a time, with only a few hours or a couple of DAYS to work on my project. IN TOTAL my time expended on a never been attempted developmental workup on the MS really has been FAR less than the travails you have gone through screwing and tweaking the stock system! The difference between your work, and mine, is that you have been at it continually for three years (+?), whilst I have spent maybe a month time in total in three years working on my project---with a result that I can now go 0-4500 in fourth gear and back to 0 in WELL under 3/8 of a mile... With not much more time on the road than that. It runs well, and had I used the system everyone else used, it would have been up and running FAR sooner. But then that group of people out there with 81ZXT's or 81ZXT-Based Engine swaps would never know what they needed to do to make the system work with the MSS setup. So don't use my experiences of doing a first-time install. Even with ALL the problems I have had (95% of those BASED IN MY LAPTOP, and NOT the MS!) I would STILL recommend MS over tweaking a stock system. For the cost, and the benefits, there really is no comparison!

My blowthrough triples setup would "flutter" but that was a simple function of the intake manifold and it's strong pulses. The flutter and surge sound completely different. My surge sounded like someone hitting a tin pan with a hammer rapidly in succession. But that was a max flow natural surge and not a throttled surge, which have two distincly different audible characteristics.

"When testing the stock tensioner, Kameari saw some interesting things. One of the phenomena described to me was of a 'wave' effect of chain whip, much like the kind of wave that we used to send down a skipping rope when we were kids. It was explained to me that this 'wave' was observed running both ways up and down the chain as the test-bed engines were accelerated and decelerated, causing cam timing to advance and retard depending on where the forces were directed and where the chain slack was. Kameari had seen engines on their dyno fail because the cam timing was moving out of sync with the crank, and they believe that they solved this with the Twin Idler setup. The stock tensioner, when blueprinted and optimised, was doing fine up until the very highest levels of tune - and Kameari still sell, fit and use the stock type tensioners of course - but their most extreme engine specs needed some extra control of the chain. I suspect that if the front cover on our highly tuned L-series engines was made from glass, some of us might be surprised and somewhat perturbed to see the effect of harmonics and other forces acting on our timing chains. Do you agree?" Oh, for sure! That is the phenomenon that you have to observe through a variable-speed stroboscope. I believe they most likely had a transparent cover made to set up the stroboscobe and observe the cam chain. This is a very common test procedure. I have someone who was concerned about timing variations install one in his engine, and depending on how it works, I may be using it in the Bonneville Racer we are building. The L20A will need to go to 9000 (right to the crank breaking torsional area) to make the HP we are hoping to make to break the record, so our concerns on cam timing have us looking at this device pretty closely. With our compression ratio (well above 14.5:1 being vague...) our vavle to piston clearances are extremely close, and any variation on the valvetrain will make it a short season in the G-Pro Class! We have the spare L28 ready to go again---that engine had pressed-in piston pins WALK to the cylinder walls, something nobody we talked to ever saw before... And that engine was only running 8500 for five minutes at a stretch... So there may be situations where conditions exist that this will help. I hope we won't need it, but given there are no practical alternatives, and it seems to be doing the job, it is the only viable alternative at this time! The Japanese had 9 second Drag cars and 500+Hp Street L-Gatas for well over 20 years. I would say they are still at the pinnacle of R&D simply like the USA is at the Peak of R&D for a Small Block Chevrolet...

Torrance, eh... That's less than an unreasonable distance from my place.... LOL Ask 1 Fast Z how the Megasquirt hacks into a stock EFI harness. I figure I could probably do the conversion in 2-3 hours using the stock stuff if I put my head to it. But for the effort, I would simply make another harness, and go from there. It's not that hard, and easily done in a day (or a week after work sitting at the plywood building board laying out wires and terminations.) BTW, Some have been using Megasquirt for over three years now. Some of the original group buy cars are another year beyond that! The latest push in recognition of that system has been because of some press it has gotten in the General Automotive Magazine Arena. Before that, it was just internet geeks and programmers that knew about it! LOL In actuality, you can purchase all the components for the Megasquirt for about $65 when it all comes down to it... The E-Bay assembled kits just make the project faster by about 5 hours of assembly time, and whatever time it took to source the stuff on your own. What I'm getting at is it's still not too late to convert!

5 hg boost? Dude, that's 2.5 psig... Is that a typo, or what? Fuel management is critical, blocing headgasketsand breakingrings is DETONATION and is the culprit of either to little fuel, or too much spark advance at a point on the curve. Or both. A turbo's fuel requirements are almost independent of rpm! It is a varaible flow engine, so unless you have a non-linear AFM that meters above 3500 when theturbo is kicking in, you can not properly manage the fuel delivery needs of the engine! A RRFPR is basically turning your EFI into a BAD carburettor. For that effort, buy triple solexes, build a surge box, and be prepared for FAR MORE power than you will get using stock N/A electronics on that turbo! In the end, with the advent of the Megasquirt, there really is no reason to screw around with stock electronics whatsoever. The cost of the RRFPR and the time you spend trimming it will not get you the results you will get with the Megasquirt and some basic tuning of the fuel maps.

Actually, with the slotted cam timing sensor, I don't see what the problem would be going to MS-n-EDIS. Failing that, converting any of a number of Distributors to be driven off the cam angle sensor would be straightforward and then allow convetnional single coil usage with conventional plug wires. Didn't some earlier Non-US versions of the SR come with a distributor? That would also be an option.

Far be it form me to jump into a fray like this... But my understanding on the development of this product involved stroboscope observation of the TIGHT SIDE chain action. With their components installed, the observed deflection of the tight side of the chain at times was noticably reduced, as well as action over the formerly "slack side" portion. Watching a camshaft jump relative position advanced/retard due to throttle position changes is relatively disconcerting, and that is MY understanding on what prompted this development project. It is my understanding that after installation of these components the said deflection from timing in the cam was noticably reduced. Like some have said, while it may not be an "ideal" solution, it is one that in the practical application showed a marked positive effect on solvingthe problem they were attempting to address. In the end, that is really what is important. While draining the reservoir of water, and cutting out the leaking portion of the dam is the "proper" way to fix the leak from an Engineering Standpoint, dumping dirt down the backside ot the dam till it covers the hole also performs the same function... I don't use that example in any way to equate Kamearis' solution to the problem they discovered, only to illustrate that there may be more than one way to approach something, and BOTH will work. To Alan, I address the question: Is this your understanding on how it was developed, or was someone blowing smoke up my posterior? I now recline to nibble on my Dragonfruit. BTW, it is my understanding someone has one of those kits and is trying to replicate it stateside. I DON'T have any knowledge of it beyond that, so you all will have to do your OWN research work. I have no problem with the price, nor buyying direct from Japan should it tickle my fancy to posess one of these units.

"Automotive" pistons are generally made of Aluminum, cast or forged. Forged has a denser structure and is suitable for the loads from higher revs. Generally, if you are turbocharging an engine, you don't put the loads in tension that higher revving does, so you can survive with cast pistons. They are far more resistant in compression than tension. BUT if you go crazy with compressive forces, then by all means run forged, as they add a margin of safety, as well as having a higher rev limit. Generally, cast pistons are said to be useful below 7000 rpms, which is where most turbo engines make their power. But above that, and cast pistons don't hold up as long as forged units do. It's not heat so much that causes failures, but detonation! Boom, and forged or cast, things break! On the "All" comment... Not "All" pistons, however are made of aluminum. One trip to industrial repair houses will confirm that. Many larger engines use cast iron, and various other alloys other than aluminum, as they are not high revving, nor is weight a consideration in their manufacture, Durability and Longevity are their main focus. In these applications, cylinder bores are made replaceable, and it's not uncommon for many sets of liners to be replaced while the original piston simply gets re-ringed. It's a different world!

Carbon Supression Wires. I know the Tec2 System specifically recomends Packard Supression wires, and also says to treat wires as a consummable item. Thus Far they have been correct. I am suprised by how long recently purchased items seem to last, while the JDM Fat 8mm Supression wires I have on my 73 ZX(T) have been on there since 1989 and they are still working FINE at 17psi!

not all P90A's are hydraulic! Check before condemning a junkyard canidate, the hydraulics have a nice smooth barrel instead of the adjusting nuts at the pivot end of the rocker arm. Of 6 Turbos in the junkyard in the past four months, only one was a Hydraulic P90A, all the rest were mechanical P90A's. Makes you wonder exactly when in 83 they went "hydraulic" as some of these cars were 83's!

VCV is designed for stock inlet volume, and stock pressures. You have upped the pressures and more than likely at least DOUBLED the captive volume in the pressurized side of the intake system. Either add a second VCV, or put a blowoff valve on the piping to dump pressure during drop-throttle. I have used dual VCV's successfully to 17psi on the stock J-Pipe, but the pricing on decent BOV's is half what it was when I set that up... So there is no real reason to not get one. Though the Dual VCV is a very stealthy, quiet setup (as is a BOV if you pipe it properly!) I like quiet, stealthy cars...

"FACTORY GAP"!?!?!?!?!?!?!?! I don't believe in "factory gap" and the fallacy that one exists has been proven every time I open a new set of plugs! NOTHING goes into the engine without being checked physically and verified at LEAST! But back to the question, I agree with Thumper, for lower boost you should be fine at .040 or thereabouts. I am at .043 with no misfire problems at 17psi. I do have problems with WIRES though! They are replaced regularly. When that happens, the misfires go away. Really kills me, too! They usually "look" great, but when Ohmed, have broken down internally. Carbon Fiber supression wires, BTW. To recoup my plug wire expenditures, I save them all, put them in a box, and let my wife put them out during her yard sale. Serves a purpose: makes her think I am "selling off some of that car crap lying all around here" therefore preserving my hobby status at home! LOL

I have signed a confidentiality agreement regarding something in the last post. Please open your minds about the air spring and think how you could harness that to your advantage... The patent should be up for sale soon...

L20ET and L28ET are mechanically identical in all boltup and exchange dimensions. The only differences are internal and fuel related. Trannies are the same as N/A L28's. I have an L20ET Transmission from an 84 Skyline Turbo in my 73 240Z with an L28ET right now! They are identical to the other five speeds in the comparable N/A L-Powered car of larger displacement. The L20ET should have a mechanical pressure retard on it, as opposed to the ECCS system used on L28ET's in the USA. I know the Euro units are set up like that, but can't remember the L20ET setup.

Check out Lance Nist's webiste from Pantera Specialists. The controller he uses is also capable of driving electrohydraulic valve actuators. Yeah, that's right, no camshaft... If you want to go into some REAL neat stuff, Lance is the guy you want to talk to... Wish I had a link right handy, but the EFI system he sells can be combined with another ECU and you can have electrohydraulic valve actuation, and totally sequential fuel and spark control... "Cam Profile" totally programmable for throttle position, rpm, acceleration rate.... Muahahahahaha! How's that for complex engineering options. I think you will like what you have to see there! "Lance Nist, Pantera Specialists, Santa Ana California" Should work on a Google...

It really depends on how old they are. Originally SK (Sangyo Kiki) stuck their stickers and a red aluminm cover over the top of the Mikuini Solex PHH Jet cover, and called them "An SK Carburettor" Later, they came out with a Weber Knockoff, and later still the "integrated" unit with features from both units. If they are really old (pre 1985) they will simply be Mikuini PHH's, after that point, they could be the Weber Knockoff (looked like a Weber, but had brass floats...) After a lawsuit, they came out again as OER (there was a time in Japan they were dual branded SK/OER), which is the Hybrid Design. They were on Display at the MSA show. Nice to see a carburettor offerring for the old school traditionalists. But for the limmited run, they won't ocme down in cost, making the EFI setups much more attractive, especially with the Advent of Megasquirt! I mean, TWM throttle bodies are around $350... So an E-Bay Manifold, a Megasquirt, and Viola! No jets, no density change problems, NO JETS! LOL

Don't know about that, they have been available since the early 80's... OER is now bering repped through some shops here inthe USA. They are a good carburettor, and the price is on par with what the competition charged for carburettors new...