Tony D

12V is where it goes. I used the injector power source on my relay box as the source for the 12V power. The Vref source on the relay box is also a good point for the 5V source for the sensor. Using the relay box, I was able to use the resistor leads for the pullup resistors from the aforementioned voltage sources without any problems at all. Basically what you do is connect the B/W wire to the 12V source, and from that same 12V source, you attach the pullup resistor, and connect it to the TACH terminal, as well as connecting the G/B wire to the same TACH terminal. Mine used the first lug on the injector source power terminal block, B/W wire to the distributor and one leg of the 1000ohm resistor attached there, the other leg of the 1000ohm pullup resistor and the G/B wire attached to the TACH terminal on the relay board green terminal strip. The resistor was juuuuuust long enough. Were I to do it again, I would solder conventional wire to the ends of a resistor ,and then stick the WIRE into the terminal lugs, as the little resistor lead tended to fall out until I folded it over to give the terminal something to bite onto. Similarly, you have a 5V Vref terminal on the relay box green terminal strip and that 1000 ohm resistor makes a nice jumper from there over to the FIDLE pin on the same terminal strip. I may have photos of that on the cardomain site. That FIDLE terminal also gets a wire that goes to the "G" terminal on the HEI module. Hope you followed that!

Nothing. It digressed. To make it "Hybrid Qualified" I'll add that the next project after that 69 Monza Turbo Conversion was a Crown Corv-8 Conversion on a 65 Corsa 140! Used a Corvetter 327 in that thing. Cop stopped by (small town) and wondered what the hell we were doing "trying to put that engine in through the passenger door?" When he came up on the driveway and realized there was no back seat, and that we were trying to pilot the thing into a bellhousing he went and wrote down the license plate number on his notepad. Simply said "This will save some time, I bet..." and walked away muttering something about "Insane Kids"... The V8 was easier than angle-milling the heads and the expense of sourching the Dual-Three Barrel IDA's! So that is a "dual triple" that came into the discussion. Back on topic now, I swear!

The Auto Trans 240SX in a particular year range used a "Dual" TPS. It contained a Position Sensor on a pigtailed connector, and a Position Switch for the Transmission control computer. As I understand it, this was one year only, or maybe a series of years till the Engine and Transimssion ECU were made compatible, and could use the same signal.

That's "Had" AND "Have" Back in 79 I spent months getting a turbo converted 69 Monza up to snuff, and back in 89 I bought my wife a 66 Corvair Corsa Turbo which is still around the yard today! Back in 79, we were running 17psi and eating F-Bodies all over the State of Michigan! LOL

These mystery leaks. Anyone running a fully-functioning PVC system? My experience has been "nuisance leaks" increase when those little K&N filters start appearing on the valve cover...

they go hand-in-hand. The EGT is telling you when you have misfires. If your AFR is right, and you are having misfires, then suspect the ignition. If your AFR is wrong, you will see the EGT take a characteristic temperature. On long full power runs like Bonneville, you will see a problem with your EGT almost immediately if you have a bad ignition wire, or plug, while the single AFR will let you know if your selection of jets was correct at 4700 feet altitude (with sometimes a density of 6000+ feet!) Yeah, EFI is the way to go. I would skip carbs altogether if at all possible. With Megasquirt available, there really is no reason to fight a metered air leak to supply the engine with combustible mix...

What I was trying to say about the misfires being more important than AFR is that when you are misfiring on one cylinder, you loose that fraction of HP. While AFR may contribute to the misfire, if the cylinder is firing then the AFR is only loosing a fraction of the HP loss a misfire would. Does that make sense? With a singe AFR channel on the tail pipe, and EGT on all cylinders you can tell once tuned if you are up or down on power simply by monitoring the alarm status on the EGT monitor. In a small aircraft, being down 17% on power because of a single plug misfire may mean the difference between making it over the pass, and becoming part of the pass! In Bonneville Competition seeing your cylinder temps come up to peak during the run means you are on full boil. We also have a simple AFR monitor, that we run in the "green"... If it changes, we lift. A cylinder going dead may not warrant a lift, but if it's preceeded by an AFR dip, may mean we lost an injector... I digress... LOLO

Thanks for the AZ Z manifold. I was informed incorrectly then. it was told it had a simple plenum. The MB manifold is separated longitudinally along the centerline of the car, but function should be similar. I wondered why the holley was mounted crossways (floatbowls left and right) instead of fore-and-aft. That makes more sense. I would be interested to hook up the EGT and see what differences there were. While EGT may be "stone age" in people with an unlimited R&D Budget, stationary engine operators routinely use EGT as the standard for monitoring engines. Anything more than a 25 degree separation is unacceptable, and sounds an alarm for attention. It is very accurate when it comes to diagnosing misfires, which are important for different reasons than AFR. If you have EGT and a single AFR monitor (five gas monitor is even better) you will learn a LOT about what your engine is doing during your run. During full throttle runs, the Clifford (the best one we tested) had 100 degree differences, and during partial throttle the differences was greater than 200 degrees! No matter how you look at it, that is waaay too rich. At least by the Single AFR probe we had in the tailpipe (so the misfires were diagnosed as rich misfires, jetting seemed to have little effect... So on to increasing velocity to stop dropout. That seemed to work) We were more interested in finding if we could equalized temps and we did using the method mentioned. The manifold that bolted onto the original SU Manifolds was hideous in distribution! We didn't have the EGT setup when we tested the SU's, but that bolt-on-to-the-SU 4bbl manifold was down on power compared to the SU's from 3500 on up. As such we poopcanned the thing early on in testing and concentrated on the Clifford unit since it was $40, and the AZ Z was a bit more pricey. As far as I know, Andy and I were the only people who have actually come forward with the results from tests we ran. Our conclusion was that the Clifford unit was able to be made to work, but only for a mild street engine below 6500rpms. Above that, the loss in HP was simply unacceptable. Perhaps a larger engine would keep velocities up and draw the mix better, but it would have flow problems before the 6500 mark anyway... In any case, I have never said the AZ Z manifold was tested by us, and I reserved judgement on it till I had one to test. I know it will be down on power compared to Webers or Mikuinis, or port EFI for that matter. But now seeing the design in that photo and far more equal length runners drawing in a separated manifold gives me hope that it will perform at mid and lower throttle ranges far better than the previous offerings. Like in the other post, there are a lot of enthusiastic converts, but none of them have done any empirical testing. I probably don't blame them with the cost of gas and dyno time just to win some sort of argument. Really, Dave from AZ Z should step up and define the market for the manifold by showing testing he did. Anecdotal evidence is usless to anyone but salesmen. I would be swayed by hard dyno numbers, or even a "comparative curve" of performance gained by his system, similar to what Mikuini had for all their setups. I believe the costs for a business would be a write-off as advertising expense. He could take a set to the MSA show one year and on that saturday run on the dyno in front of a crowd and by word of mouth alone pick up converts and shoot down us skeptics. Testing is testing, marketing is marketing, many times the two rearely coincide with facts and figures.

I scavenge TURBO indicators wherever I can get them. They are degreed to 30. When I set up the engine, and am in the process of verifying TDC with the indicator on the piston top, I have ALWAYS aligned the marker I bolted onto the engine and a mark I MADE by filing into the pulley. Sometimes the mark from the factory is close, other times not. Expecially on Chevy's and used pulleys meaning the elastomer is going out. In either case, you can verify TDC with the head on through #1 spark plug hole, and mark YOUR pulley according to wherever your timing marker SHOULD BE. Even with the old 240 style "Pin Marker" with a dial in advance timing light, you can still set whatever timing (initial or total) that you want using this method. In some cases I have made a pointer out of welding rod and a piece of sheetmetal. It doesn't matter what indicator you use, it matters that the mark on the pulley is CORRECTLY ALIGNED.

BAH! I've been drawn in again! Where's that Horse .gif? When Andy Flagg and I were doing testing on the Bonneville car, we didn't have individual AF Ratio Sensors in each header tube, but DID have a six channel EGT out of a Cessna for datalogging and comparisons. Much like you mention about HOlley finding 10 to 14:1 in different cylinders, our testing of the different Cylinders on the Z Six with three different 4 BBL manifolds showed well over 100 degrees difference between individual cylinders. This is unacceptable. On Triples our differential was less than 25 degrees at almost all times. At partial throttle the differences were staggering. I don't know if it's was a function of the carb just doing a terrible job at atomization, or not, but I suspect insufficient thought towards the manifold design. If you look at factory inline six manifolds (most notably the Mercedes Benz) you will find it's a DUAL PLANE design. You have one primary and one secondary feeding two sets of three cylinders. NOBODY in the Z Aftermarket has a manifold like this, they ALL dump to a common plenum, and then suck the fogged mix down runners (usually of UNEQUAL LENGTH)... Mixture distribution can not HELP but be disturbed! ACtually the way to solve it would be to decrease the cross sectional area of the plenum and runners to keep veocity up, drawing the mix equally down each runner to each cylinder. To get our Clifford manifold to get below 100 degrees between cylinders at full throttle, (I almost hate to admit this) we put a BIG pad of JB WELD in the center of the plenum with depressed "runners" going to each individual cylinder runner. This got mixture distribution as revealed by EGT to less than 100 degrees, but NOWHERE near where the Webers were, which were within 25 degrees OUT OF THE BOX! The only thing we did on the webers was adjust jetting to get the EGTs' up where we wanted them and for what got us the terminal power we desired. If someone was to take a Mercedes Benz Manifold, and somehow copy the design to the L-Engine (perhaps weld an L-Flange onto the MB Pleunm and Runners) I would be VERY interested to see how it worked out in terms of cylinder to cylinder variation. But remember even MB put a redline limit on peak HP production well below 6000 rpms with this setup. The plenum design and carburettor are almost mutually exclusive for High RPM operation. At least IMO. I really wish I had kept the notepads from those dyno sessions. It has been over 6 years ago now, we only ran the 4bbl one season, before going to the Webers. And the Webers for a season before going to the Triple TWM 45mm setup. The differences in HP production and idle characteristics were significant, also. The 4bbl idled at 2200rpm (similar to my old Full Race Ice Racing Corvair from the 80's), the Webers at 1700 rpm, and the TWM with port EFI at ridiculous numbers: it would idle tickover as low as 400rpm! On a 39*F morning at ElMirage, the TWM / TEC2 setup would fire off first crank, idle at 1500 and then step down on the warmup circuit to an 850 rpm idle. On a cam with BIG lobes. Big enough for a terminal figure of 315HP to the rear wheels at 8250rpm, on a non-stroked .040" Bored L-28... The Webers power peak was around 7500, and the TWM was up on them by 40HP at 8250, and somewhere around 20HP at 7500. The 4BBL was around 13-20HP lower at a power peak around 7200, and similar to that at 7500 compared to the Webers. If I recall the power peak of the Webers was 286 at 7500, and the 4bbl on the Clifford Manifold was 246 at 7200 or 256.... It was a while ago. Annyway, putting that EGT Datalogger with variable alarm parameters is a VALUABLE tool for someone running on a dyno. They are only about $1200 from Aircraft Spruce. Neat Gadget, people will always ask "what's that?" Unless they are a pilot, then they make a comment like "Why the hell do you have THAT in your car?" LOL

You will have to relocate the PCV fitting under the N42 Plenum (or any N/A Manifold for that matter) towards the T/B to clear the turbo. A Q45 T/B is unrequired, and will be a pain to adapt. The standard 60MM T/B is all that is required for the horsepower level you are contemplating. It's bigger than most of the tubing most people plumb their systems with... So that should tell you something about "restriction reduction"...

You have an 82 Normally Aspirated 280ZX? Then the same thing that was in the first post (mario answered it!) where you asked the question STILL is applicable: YES, MS will run the car. The distributor is a distributor and not a Crank Angle sensor, or a gutted unit like in the 81 turbos. The only people recommended to simply make the MSS conversion are those people with TURBO 280ZX's. Not those with a NORMALLY ASPIRATED that they are planning on converting. Please let people have ALL the information AT ONCE and you will get beter answers, and it will not be like pulling teeth for either one of us. Also searching and reading is a good idea, as the MSEFI site would have answered this question in a quite straightforward manner. You simply hook your MS "tach" input to your coil negative terminal, and run it fuel only. This is the BASIC MS system. I'm still not understanding something here, exactly why are you fixed on controlling spark, again? In an N/A? if you are going to control spark, you will need the GM Module for the interface because the Megasquirt does not have dwell, and the Megasquirt is what will be controlling the spark if you set it up that way. But I am giving up, this seems to be a lack of reading or research thusfar.

I usually either Drive Through in reverse and see if they realize it, or let my kid take the food and give them the money and see if they notice. It was a hoot driving through West Virginia in the car! (Banjo Music Interlude) "Hey boyah, where you git that thar car wit the wheel on the wrong side? England er sumpthin?" LOL

I have a neat photo of my L20A I will find the link and edit this post to contain it here. We are hoping for a tad more than 200Hp at 9Krpm. We are using the L20A because we already have all the available records in the 3L Normally Aspirated Class we race in at Bonneville. If your car has an N42, head, the engine has been swapped. Chances are it has an L28 in it already. Very common swap. The Fairlady Z's are ALWAYS considerably quicker than a comparable US Spec Version due to weight and gearing differences. An L28 in a Fairlady is a rocket, for sure. You can go to my cardomain site and see our E88 head on an L20A, and I can assure you HEAVY block work was required for vavle clearance! I own three Fairlady Z's, and the photos below are from our 1976 280Z 2+2 Bonneville Racer. You can view the full size images at my Cardomain Site.

they have me going up north whenever I get back from Venezuela. I have to see a customer in Sac'to, and maybe over in Tahoe. So while I drive through, I can stop by. I always stop off in Modesto anyway to molest the idiots who formerly employed me (Atlas Copco / Summit Industrial). Nothing like stopping by with a smile on your face to let them know they lost another customer. "Professional Courtesy", doncha know! LOL

I am at a loss as to what you are asking, or what significance "dwell" has on anything being questioned. This is the same question you asked earlier, and the answer is still the same as it was then: MSS will run your car, and if you want to control coil packs use MS-n-EDIS. What/why/how does "dwell" come into the conversation at all. Am I missing something? With WHAT, and MS?

yeah, I don't know if I know that one... What is the story on "port matching"...

"Kurt instigated more problems with small vendors like myself than many of you may know" Mike, most people here have no concept of what you are really talking about! Unless they are "in the business" they really can't. There is a right way to take care of stuff, and there is more than one way to make a dollar than by "cutting costs on the front end at all costs"... I know what you are talking about, and you are not the only one with that comment! Business Ethics is sorely lacking today. Sorry to be nebulous, but I think it's best that way. I sorta agree with Dave K on this one, it's a covered subject to death.... Who had that killer gif of the dead horsebeater? It was in a "Four Barrel on my L24" post recently! LOL

I can personally attest to the longevity of a 1962 VW Bus Transmission from the time the oil stops dripping out (because you got sick of topping it off every week...) and the time the fourth gear synchro fails to hold it in gear is about 30,000 miles..... So as long as it's drippin, it's got lube...yer fine! LOL

One thing to remember about going V8, injector soucres from import engines easily make big power potential. Most V8's only run around a 24# injector... Low specific output per cylinder. Most import units are that big, if not bigger. Supra 440cc, hell Ford TBI is almost 500! That's serious fuel flow potential! I have had TPI on my mind for a project, but for some reason the obvious application of the MS to it totally never came into mind... I guess I flake from time to time, eh?

Not with straight MSS, Randy---there is no dwell control. It may interface with later ignitors that seem to have more wires going to them, so maybe they do more than simply gate the transistor. MSS-E may be able to do it with its features. I am also not sure of the gate. Rise or fall to trigger the transistor. The signal from the MSS is VERY different from what I understand the stock ECU gives. On an O-Scope, the MSS gives: _________-__________-_________-_________-__________ I believe the stock ECU gives the opposite, ----------------------------------_ Shouldn't be hard to transform, but as we all know, I am not an electrical guy! LOL

"Ford parts to run a Chevy Engine! What a mongrel!!!" Wouldn't that be a Hybrid? "There is not any room for purisim here!" LOL

LOL! Priceless! And very "on topic" given the debate that never ends, yes it goes on and on my firends, someone started it...not knowing what it was, and it keeps on going just because.... LOL