Tony D

which "blower" are we looking at in that ad Tim?

these guys know what it takes for tubing to be done right. This is from their tech section on their website, search around their homepage, and you will find out all sorts of stuff about tubing! http://www.burnsstainless.com/TechArticles/Construction/construction.html

couple of problems: 1) O2 does not like to stop flowing quickly at high pressure. It will most likely cause an "oxygen fire" at teh point of the rapid shutoff. 2) Injecting pure O2 into the exhasut manifold WILL cause an oxygen fire. Oxygen fires are not cool. You do not want one. Some industrial engines use compressed AIR to pre-spin the turbo up to speed in conjunction with the air-to-head start system. But this is impractical for anything but a single run down the track, and to get it installed in the car, Tech will have to approve a 3600psi air cylinder somewhere on the car...

L20ET had 145PS same as an L28 N/A. The L20ET had more torque than the N/A motor. The exhaust manifold and turbo will work on an L28, if you use the L28 head and intake, fueling it up to you. The L20ET manifold has some very small runners and doesn't really flow all that well. Cheers!

Oh, Forrest, quit complaining! You want troubles: read the sticky for my latest! Hope you guys keep having good luck. I know I'm not.

well, I know valvcover to valvecover is't narrow enough to go in an S30. But the engine is TALL. When I measured the prototype at a car sho early last year, the Nissan Keepers were "HEY! You with the tape measure come here!" They just shook theri head when therealized I was not some competition spy, and was really measuring the engine for fitment in another chassis. I believe their comment was "This thing isn't at dealers yet, and this guy is already trying to get it fit in something else!" We are all diseased! BTW, how does one poast as a guest? Found that interesting. Feature disabled now, right?

Kinda o.t., but JOHN! Borrow Andy's tires, take a run up to ElMirage, and try for a GT or MS record before you sell! It would be one way for you to claim your $1 from me! Seriously! Make a weekend trip, and get teched, and run it flat out for 1.3 miles to see where it goes. The only reason I say ElMirage is that you will probably have it sold by Bonneville, and that's a loooong drive for a lark! I would like to see it up there, for no other reason than to sate my curiosity about the stock bodywork... You have MORE than enough horsepower. I think nobody has realized that Stony's car is an SCTA LEGAL GT-Class competitor (engine Swaps ARE permitted in GT! an RB26 powered stock-bodied 240 would shut a lot of people up about how fast you can REALLY go in an unaltered 240 as horsepower would not be an issue...)

Chronic, I'm sorry to say, you are a bit off on that last post, and Sims is correct. First, 7psi is 7psi. The CFM you state means the more efficient unit has the POTENTIAL for supplying more CFM at a given PSI. But only if your engine REQUIRES the additional flow. Basically the less efficient turbo more than likely will be turning a faster RPM to make the same Backpressure in the intake manifold. PSI is just a resistance to flow. This is why some cars make 300hp at 10 psi, and others need 15psi to achieve. Don't confuse airflow potential with PSI. The reason the more efficient unit has cooler air is due to operating at a more optimum tip speed. The pressure ratios are the same to get 7psi. Pressure ratio of the wheel only says it's potential. To get 7psi on the same engine, you only need feed it with X CFM, no matter what the turbo is capable of delivering.

you may want to contact John Williams of Williams Machine in Lake Elsinore CA. I believe he was cutting bare billetts for cam grinders locally (Gude Performance, I believe). This would get you a billett, but you would probably have to supply detailed dimensions for the lobe centers and bearing surfaces. Then off to the cam grinder for final finishing of your billett. Then again, if RB cams fit, why reinvent the wheel?

Sir? I'm no sir! and no, I'm no ma'am either 8)

FSM says 7.4:1 7.1 and 7.8 are just plain wrong. 7.3 is close enough to say "what does it matter?"

Wow, I managed to get (through a software glitching problem, along withthe way the MS retards spark and having an errant tach signal) .5 bar boost at idle with WOT! Pretty neat, but my siggestion is to not do this for extended periods, as the turbo starts glowing red hot, and the solder from adjacent wiring melts... Anyway, no further on the MS, and I have to believe it's in a corrupted processor, as I have 'scoped the input to IRQ1 (Pin 14) on the cpu, and I am getting a consistently clean -3V pulse of 1ms duration with a +.5V pulse (of 2ms) overrun every third waveform. That's a total of 3.5V change altogether, and I can't believe this waveform input can be causing a problem. I see no noise whatsoever on the downstream (output) side of the opto. I would think false tach triggers would be the fault of false triggering of hte opto (inductive kickback) and in most cases apparently this IS the cause. I just can't believe this is the culprit. Even checked a "commercially assembled" MS box my bud loaned me---one of those $250 E-Bay deals. Same thing: false tach signal on the software. Right now I don't really know what way to go. Some hypothesise that it's comm problem, or laptop problem, but I can't see how that could be as this thing is doing it on it's own. Doing it on the stimulator at 9V, doing it in the car at 11.8 to 14V. Doing it on all the boxes I got, and on the E-Bay version. Something is amiss. Heck, I even was runnign the car for about a half an hour last night on my "Box #2" without all the filter circuit modifications. I think it's time to give up, and push this pig to the curbside, and concentrate on other things that actually RUN. I now lament not using the complete 83 wiring harness I had for this car. What a waste of 6 months! No shiny car for me at the Convention this year. Just the same old boring dull grey one. No turbo, just the old grey N/A. <Edited Update, 1800 hrs> Looks like I trashed the turbo doing that also. On restart, saw some smoke and thought "head gasket" but later revving revealed the telltale howl and copious ammounts of smoke revealing trashed turbine side oil seals. Oh well, makes my decision on priorities much easier now...

I ran an independent test of Splitfires when they were new back in the early 90's. My results on a lean-burn stationary engine using stratified-precombustion chamber firing showed an overall decrease in fuel comsumption (Medium BTU Sour Gas) of close to 50,000 CFD on a 3,000,000 CFD facility. The firing pressures on a cylinder to cylinder basis were startingly closer than any other plug we tried from .69 cent Champions to $400 (PER PLUG) Stitts. These were verified with kenescope readings. They were also borne out with cylinder exhaust temperature variations in some cases less then 10 degrees apart! This is phenomenal on a mechanically fuel injected engine like we were testing on. The only problem we had was center electrode errosion, and I could not get the manufacturer to put their patented ground electrode onto a Champion Plug so we could get 500 hrs from the plugs instead of 100 hours. I was am still curious as to how their new platinum electrodes would stand up in that service. I went through 1500 plugs on that trial. My only complaint was they didn't last more than 100 hours, and the Champions for 20% of the cost lasted 5X as long.

Beat to death, but to summarize: the head bolt clamping pattern on an RB engine is far better than the setup on an L28. They hold the pressure in better, without the head lifting. The L28 does not have optimal headbolt placement, the RB is far better in that respect. Anything else is just superficial. The L28 should easily support 800HP on the non-crossflow head, and if you could pick up an LY, probably another 100HP. Then the heads start stretching the headbolts and lifting...

it's not new, not by a longshot. at best it's reconditioned, but I would doubt that. more than likely it was someone who started spiffing up the block while thehead was off getting valve work done around 180K miles....... I have bought things out of police impound myself, and have good luck, but I would never call one of them "new". New PAINT maybe, but not a 'new' block! i doubt it's 700# unless it's packaged on one heluva heavy pallet. I can lift one of those longblocks out of the back of a truck, so there is NO WAY the block sans head is anywhere NEAR 700#!

"your tax dollars at work"! When a SrA is in the backseat with a driver ready to separate, there is not a lot of goading required to convince him to flip the switch---it was, after all, an "Incentive Ride"! That ride was fun, but I didn't reenlist because of it. Now, if they would have had a recruiter on the tarmac after my AC-130 incentive ride, I would have signed a 20 year enlisment contract if they could warrant my placement on AC130 Aircrew Duty... I like to explode things!

3.08 would work for me, but a 3.36 is acceptable, too. I will have to check this out further. An R230 with a 3.36 will be FAR easier to get my hands onto than the other two ratios in the R200....

Even Porsche was bitten by the bug. In the 917 series run at LeMans, the boost controller was driver adjustable. The screw for the controller was a coarse acme-style screw, with paintmarker around the spanned sweep of the controller valve showing "7, 9, 11, Q" Standing for 700, 900, 1100Hp, and "QUALIFYING" Apparently the little engineers did some testing, but not terminal failure testing, and gave the driver the leeway to just "run what it would do" when needed, and if it broke, it broke... Taking from their wisdom: If it breaks, it breaks! Anything that has a 270 degree sweep of a DIAL to give that much horsepower is far too advanced to believ it would simply fail if you tried it for a few bursts of "Q"! Kinda like the two safety-wired switches under the port bulkhead of an F15, one is labeled "ECM", the other "VMAX" "VMAX" is to be used for outrunning guided missles, and is only to be used for a 30 second burst. I can personally attest that the tailfeathers of the bird will all have heat-stress cracks when used for the full 30 seconds. But the literal "kick in the back" when you are already doing 900+ knots is really awesome. I could say it skewes your perception of "power" somewhat I think... In my case it did.

mmmm, 2.70 R230 in the front diffy of the 4X4 Armada? I will have to check that out....

Uh, yeah, I just realized that myself, Rufus! When I did the first Blow-Through Triple Mikuini setup in my 73 while overseas in the USAF, I found that I had more....uh.... "Upper Body Inertia" then most, as I ended up ripping out the front seat mounts! Not a calming feeling when you goose it one day and realize your seat is tweaking up on the left side during hard acceleration. "It's making a noise, I should probably look when I get where I'm going..." Next intersection, young and stupid: RRRRRRIIIP! And back into the hatch I was a-lookin'! "WTF?!?!?!?!" This is when I decided reinforcing the seat mounting areas or using alternate fastening methods were a GOOD thing! Though some were impressed at how I savaged my seatmounts.

oh no, it's not bastaad that's giving you bad luck with a MS'd Z-Car... The provenance comes totally from me! I am the Dark Hole of Electrical Gremlins. Ocassionally they crawl through a sensor into the intake and affect things mechanique! I have chilled the Moosehead to 45 degrees thusfar in my luring attempt on JeffP. I will most likely have the ousdoor fridge dialed in before Saturday at exactly 34 degrees F for proper Beer-Bribeage whilst running the scope diagnosing my noise problem! Beware, once my bad luck is gone, someone else will inherit it!

Get ye to a gravel scale and confirm your weight! Good numbers Bryan, I would be curious to see what my similar setup makes nearer sea level. I have filled the outside refrigerator with Mooseheads, so soon I hope to have JeffP over to do some scope work on the board and power circuits to figure out how to filter out the noise I am experiencing.

never leave your celphone on "vibrate" while working near anything electronic. My partner did this all the time due to high-noise environments. One day, I taught him a lesson. While he was sweating like a pig, and leaning his head into a Variable Speed Drive (right over like 600VDC Caps bigger than 24oz beer cans) I called his phone number. You have not lived until you see your partner literally levitate backwards out of a cubicle screaming, then realizing he was not getting electrocuted, but that someone was calling him on the phone. It's even more satisfying when he looks and sees' your name on the caller I.D. Sometimes I can't help myself!

There are several things you can do to save the life of your thrust bearing: #1) NEVER start the car in gear with the clutch depressed!!!!!!! Think about it: you have FULL thrust load on a non-lubricated bearing surface, so grind grind grind it goes until oil pressure comes up. I start the car out of gear with no clutch. Yes, I disconnected the "idiot switch"---my 62 VW didn;t have such electronic gimmickery on it, and I have yet to run it through the front of the garage... #2) When at a light, or on a hill, do NOT sit there withthe clutch depressed. My teacher was "in gear, or out, but not both" kinda guy. Basically, USE YOUR BRAKES. That is waht they are for. The less time the clutch pedal is depressed, the less wear you will have. #3) if you have good synchros, alight flywheel, and a ginger foot, you can go up and down the gears with no clutch depression whatsoever. Failing thestones to master that technique, you can go into the next gear with some of the smae techniques, but with far less than a full clutch release. Conserve your thrust bearing by not fully loading it. Basically, anything that keeps your foot off the clutch, it good. As for your cracked pilot bearing, the solid disc clutch can do that from the chattering, but this goes back to the clutch being "in or out" and not even TRYING to slip it. Good Luck. Anybody who ever owned a Corvair or VW with a snapped clutch cable will tell you living without a clutch is difficult only in first gear!

Oh yeah, ALWAYS chain the side of the engine in ANYTHING powered by a Small-Block Chevy! A broken motor mount in a given, and it makes for an interesting ride while the fan works it's way through the hood.... I went on Mr. Toad's wild ride in a 67 Chevy Shortbox C10 pickup with a 400CID SBC due to that throttle bind propensity (withet hte broken motor mount).