Tony D

"small cap" like a 102 or 103 on the tx and rx pins? Been there, didn't clean anything up at all. Yeah, I have been the "scope the hell out of it" and am damned to find anything that would explain this... But changed over to a Wni98SE laptop this morning, and no more erratic tach action, no more jumping this or that..... Hence the question on O.S. Thusfar, everyone is NOT using XP (though I thought W2K was the same, I guess not) I am uploading the latest software for MTSS here in a few minutes to see if the latest software on my computer still does the same thing. That is the other variable as the 98SE has the latest MTSS version (3.02 I believe) but the Megatune is still good ole 2.20, which is what I currently have on my XP Laptop, but it's showing crazy nuts.... Which brings us back to that Win98SE, W2K thing. All I have to say is that if this was software all this time.... I'm gonna shoot something. Many times!

Mine Dynoe'd at 147, and by 1/4 mile times (15.30 to 15.50) should show 202 at the crank ( ).... Many have told me that stock turbos put that much down, and I have had people in stock turbos comment on how fast I pull out in front of them... Specs: 1981 ZX motor from a 2+2 with 186K miles (now closer to 220K) K&N air filter in stock housing. TWM big throat throttle body. Downpipe from MSA from stock manifold to 2.5" press-bent exhaust, and two mufflers (far quieter than stock). That's IT. So for 130+ I would say from what everyone else sees, you have one fairly well running engine.

What operating system is on the computer you use to interface with the MS box? This is a copy of the cross-posted item I left with both yahoo groups just now, curious what you guys are using: XP SOFTWARE INCOMPATIBILITY? I was wondering.... Is the MTSS susceptible to "false" tach readings when run on Windows XP? I have been tracing a "terrible" tach jumping (as well as other things)for about the last several months, and recently came upon the RPM CALC while browsing one day. Watching RPM CALC, it was steady, and as Magnus said it was the PC's interpretation of the Hi-Res tach output. Thinking further (dangerous...) I figured to give a Win98 laptop a try. Well, no more jumping. There is the occasional misfire-induced jump, which I can probably remedy with the standard filtering schemes. Problem is, do I need to partition my HD and boot in 98 to run these programs? This seems to have solved the problems I was having in standard Megatune, and MTSS. The tach is very steady now (on WIN98), and the RPM CALC is doing what I would expect a hires signal to do: have rapidly moving tens and ones digit count tracking the rpm, but now the Engine Speed RPM is steady. What gives? Thanks, Tony D.

You could try to contact Frank Poll in the Netherlands, I believe that he has an L20E from a ZX, then the standard turbocharging bits are easy! E-Mail me off-list, and I will get you his e-mail contact information. he doesn't know what he should do with the engine, so you may be able to get it for a reasonable sum!

the bad news is that if you rock the crank enough, it can cause pin locks to move out, and other odd wear patterns evolve on the pistons due to the rods not operating where they are "supposed" to be. Normally you only move about .004" (0.1mm) and the rods can handle that. But you move beyond rod side clearance, and the sides of the rods start running on the fillet, and stresses them at an andle, instead of perpinducular to the crank journal (anyone wonder where "tapered" journals are formed?) Make sure when you go in, you check the sides of the rods, etc etc etc... Good luck on the repair.

Spare Priddy Pipe? Or is that Spare Pretty Pipe? http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page11.html

to clear this up: the Swedish company bought the dies from VW when they stopped forging cranks in-house in the mid 70's when the water cooled line started pushing them out of the original plant. The volume of Air Cooled stuff paled with the Rabbit coming on line, so like any other thing in the Automotive business they outsourced, and the company was in Sweden. When Gene decided the cross-area of a welded crank was the reason for the cranks braking, he approached VW and they directed him to the owner of the dies. From them, he worked for a sole-soure supplier arrangement, and made a run of cranks. True to his word, Gene held the prices to under $1000 for a loooong time, and when he went back and checked the cost of another run in the mid 90's (just before he died as I recall) he sent out a letter informing his customers that due to the cost of a new production run, the current supply of forged cranks would be it, and that he reserved the right to only sell cranks to people buying a full set of parts from him (or who were getting a replacement part). So this is how a Swedish Company started supplying VW cranks to VW.

no I will have to disagree! The VW has a forged, non-counterweighted crank. That was the odd thing about them: non counterweighted but forged. The flywheel on the VW is also forged. As are the rods. Some of the British stuff was cast non-counterweighted three mainbearing stuff, but the VW's OEM crank is forged. The aftermarket stuff (especially the cheap strokers available in the late 70's and early 80's were cast. Gene berg approached the holder of the original VW forging dies and had them rework for his raw core cranks. For a LONG time, Gene Berg was the ONLY supplier of forged stroker cranks (not welded and offset ground or cast). Gene had a nice technical paper showing photos from the factory in Sweden where he was getting them made, and how they reworked the OEM forging dies to make forgings with more cross-sectional area for those looong stroke cranks he woudl sell. if you want to see forging in work, if you are even in LA, give me a call, and I can direct you to LA Drop Forging. They do a lot of their work outdoors (unfortunately with air hammers) making aircraft landing gear parts and the like. Very interesting to see "big redhot rectangle" go in and BANG BANG BANG BANG comes out as "dull red round thing".

Air cooled VW's had forged cranks for sure. $1400 for a forged counterweighted Gene Berg stroker hammered in the original dies from Sweden. The rods were forged to my recollection, too, but it's been 92 since my last rebuild on one, so I may have missed something. I swear they were a forged rod and forged crank. The stock crank wasn't counterweighted, but that's about the only complaint I ever had about VW internals... Well, maybe not the only one... Threw a few VW rods, but NEVER had one break. Always bolt failures (stupid kid reusing bolts). http://www.geneberg.com/vwrods.htm Now DOMESTIC crap, THERE is where you get into cast cranks, etc etc etc... I shudder every time I recall my visit to the Buick V6 Engine plant in 1982/83. Compared to the Nissan Engine assembly plant I toured in 85 it was the difference in Civil War Surgery, and the ER today!

I have done it that way forever. Comes from learning on VW's I guess. They are set stone cold, and left that way! Anyway, I set them melticulously cold, then run the engine up to full hot soak, and recheck hot. It is far easier for a noob to do it this way, as at most you may have to reset one or two valves hot---which is far easier to do while full hot than it is to try and do all 12.

seems you figured it out on your own... The key to endplay measurements is indicating play with the crank one way, then forcing it the other. 1mm of movement is around .040", and your endplay should be a few thousandths, not .040! I once had a VW Type 1 engine that came in to my place with an owner complaining of a bad oil leak and noise from the back of the car. The pulley was hitting the tin! The play was around .125"!!! This is for a vehicle set up with "oilclearance endplay" of .008 TOPS! In most cases the endplay of the crank on the thrust bearing will be around 0.006" to 0.008" for the simple reason that if you go any closer, the oil will not have sufficient space to form a proper hydrodynamic wedge and float the crank on the oil. This is what the thrust bearing is supposed to do, and how it functions. You shold see maybe .006" to .010". If clearance is too large, you loose oil pressure from an "uncontrolled leak" around the periphery of the bearing. To tight, and it "wears itself in" and that's not good... Like you surmised, starting the engine cold, with your foot on the pedal of an overweight high-performance pressure plate is a sure way to kill your thrust bearing. (Take a look at bearings designed after the federal laws mandated a "clutch interlock device" for manual vehicles! WAAAY bigger bearing area, on bearings most likely designed to fit within the old machining of the block to minimize engine-plant tooling costs.) So you can guess I have removed the clutch, seatbelt, and neutral "safety interlocks" in all my vehicles. I'm such a dare-devil... My god! Call the government, I am thinking for myself and am defying their attempts to think for me!

The "Goertz Paeco" was a serious search item. Albercht Goertz knows nothing on this head, and disavows anything to do with any developmental engine work for anything pertaining to the engine. Paeco, the race engine builder in Birmingham Alabama, also disavows any knowledge of this head, saying something along the lines of "We never casted no heads before, that one surrrrre looks purdy!" So both of those leads were dead ends. The only thing I know for sure was the seller at the Swap Meet bought the lump at an "estate sale" which means probably there was an engineer/draftsman living in Sandiego in the early 70's that had this built. Why the casting has "Goertz Paeco" on the rear is a mystery, and the buyer has gone back to find the swapmeet seller to no avail. The blueprints are hand drafted, inked, and in english measurements. Unfortunately, the prints have neither a draftsmans' name, or company of production. It amazes me to think someone sat at a table and literally started from a blank sheet and made this much happen! And yes, that's why the second group of photos was added, for the "question" that I will not dignify with a response. Something is to be said for actually reading the original post, and comprehending the words "unfinished". Contrary to popular belief, I now concede there is such a thing as a stupid question! As for "Looking at the design, it is very similar to the Toyota 7MGTE out of the Supra" The 7MGTE is a derivation of the "G" heads that came before it, and the 2000GT {1M-G}(as well as it's four cylinder cousin the 67 1600GT {2T-G}) share similar Yamaha-Inspired Design Cues. I have some photos of a 2000GT engine on a stand from the Toyota Museum in Carson, but don't have them available on this computer----alas! Otherwise one could be shot up for comparison. Yeah, I get into some interesting places, don't I?

the 240Z vapor return line will work as a return line, the stock one is too small. You can route the stock fuel pressure regulator return barb right over the side of the intake and J-Pipe to go to the vapor return line. You will have to hook the return line back at the tank to one of the 1/4" barbs, and use the stock return line as a vent (has to come higher than fuel level, then loop back outside the vehicles' interior. If you are using the stock tank, you can use the stock pickup line and filter to fill the sutre tank for the EFI pump up front, but an electric pump is better. If you are using a 75 to 6/76 280Z tank then you can simply return the vapor line to the stock return fitting on the 280 tank. Hope this isn't confusing you at all. If you are planning on going high horsepower, you may want to get a Porsche 944 Turbo pump, or high-flow Walbro as referenced in the archives of this site. Those are the biggies concerning the fuel system on a 240 Z. On a 260 or 280Z the return line is fine, but the 240Z's line is too small and will have you running rich as hell if you try to use it!

the R32 Factory Service Manual is online for download. All 810 pages. I downloaded it to my company laptop while on a T-1 line back at the corporate offices.... That should have everything you need, but for the life of me, I can't remember the site where I got it. You need good highspeed internet to download the whole thing. And it's in ENGLISH! If it fits on a single CD I could probably make one and send it to you. I believe it linked from here. I don't go many other places, and I know it wasn't on ZCar.com!

priceless...

What kind of pump did you have on your L24 before? You need one capable of 40psi to run the EFI system. If you are not using the power transistor to tirgger the coil as it was in the ZXT, it will never work. Both of these may be the cause for you not getting any fuel, as without a spark timing pulse, the ECU will not supply fuel. But if you are not using an EFI pump, you will getno fuel anyway spark or no.

the 76 280Z 2+2 Andy Flagg races at Bonneville has seen 173+mph, and was running a full belly pan. The front radiator grille was completely blocked off, so the comparison isn't really apples to apples, but without the front blocked and the belly pan in place the same car is around 10mph slower. And that's a considerable change, seeing as the engine looses HP by running the exhaust full out the back of the vehicle and not in the shortie dumps that it was dyno tuend with!

You may want to consider the stock 2000cc engine used in Japan Market, the L20E or the L20ET. The L20E is fuel injected 6-cylinder identical in your configuration. Bolts right in. Has about 130HP in the stock form. The L20ET is similar in configuration, and makes the same Horsepower as the stock L28E you currently have in the vehicle, but produces much more torque. This swap (L20ET swapped for L28) was VERY popular in Japan in the late 80's and early 90's due to the exact same reasons you state: governmental taxation on vehicles with engines larger than 2000CC. The L20ET will give you better drivability than the original L28. Many of the Specialty Magazines in Japan actually showed the 2-Litre engine to be superior in acceleration & fuel economy steady state due to it's turbocharged configuration producing more torque. It is something to consider, as it required absolutely no re-engineering of the chassis or mounting points. It literally is a drop-in affair. The most I could see having to do is swap oil pans and fabricate a rear-sump pickup if you happen to get a front-sumped engine out of a Skyline or other vehicle. Z, Cedric, and Gloria Sedans all were available with the L20ET and had rear sumps. I believe the Skyline was a front-sump engine, and am not quite sure what the Leopard had, but it too was available with the L20ET. Good Luck on the Swap. Hope this gave you an easier alternative.

"but weight reduction in the moving components is a necessity in producing maximum HP" This is a technical difference ECP. Reducing the weight of rotating components on the chassis does not produce any horsepower. It eliminates a parasitic loss of the chassis. Like John C stated, when measured on an engine dyno, you will see no increase in HP. The engine makes what it makes. It does not "make more" due to the elimination of a chassis component. Only more is read / sensed due to the methodology of the testing. Weight reduction inside the engine may assist in production of HP through friction reduction, etc, but external items do not make horsepower, they only reduce a parasitic loss so what the engine is producing gets to where it needs to be. This is why many teams test on the engine dyno, then retune on the chassis dyno. The two methodologies quantify very different things.

Sure, Drax, I'll send them presently. Be glad I'm in a hotel with Broadband. I am not prone to sending out stuff several times... Eventually, they will make their way to this post I HOPE!

look up underneath your vehicle! It has to be leaking ans saturationg stuff for a looooong time before it drops on the ground!

Sure it's the seal? A very common point of leakage is the pin with an "E" clip just forward of the shifter. Many times this pin (which is covered in sealant on both ends) is knocked free during rough installation or sotrage, and since it's right in the area of slinging gear oil, it leaks like a seive, and to good effect, puts the blame on the shifter section! I actually had a tranny where someone had REMOVED the white sealant fro mthe ends of the pin, thinking it was the "shifter pin" you had to remove to get the shifter out! (Hey, it has and E-Clip on it!) Man that thing leaked suprisingly well! I ended up dropping it out to clean and fix the pin with a gob of epoxy on both sides.

DONE! Thanks, look forward to seeing them here. Those four are the only 1280x960 photos I could take when the guy had it out. The rest are some 640x480 shots, and I can send those to you if you're interested in other closer up views. I'm anxious to see what others here think about the head... And that it was bought complete with the machining plates semi-finished at a SWAP MEET! (With Blueprints! )

well, I tried to send some of the parties here a few photos of a custome one-off head so they could post it, but between being "over quota", or "not liking sender" all my cool photos got bounced back. Well, at least ONE photo got through, so maybe you guys will see something neat and unseen digitally ever before. A one-off casting bought at a Swap Meet in San Diego CA a few years ago. You got it: a DOHC head for an L24 engine....

yep. Do you have photos of the L20ET in the donor vehicle by any chance? I am curious about some stuff and looking at a photo of the intake manifold would answer a lot of my questions. You can send it to my Yahoo Address. Thanks.