Tony D

I have to agree with SHO-Z: that is only an approximation at standard conditions. CFM, PPH, PPS, etc etc etc are all convertable, but using a simple single number is VERY crude when you consider all the variables that are really in the system!

I've looked through all the fiches I have access to, and can't find a three piece Nissan Manifold for the L28. I can find several different iterations of the standard L28ET manifold depending on wether or not it's an L20ET or L28, but the physical differences look indistinguishable from each other (since I do have the L20ET and L28ET manifolds here at the house). So I'm really kinda stoked to see some photos as I can't find a three piece in the Nissan Literature I have (US and JDM) Why are you so sure it's factory Frank? I ahve seen some nice JDM Aftermarket Manifolds with stuff like "nissan" and "L20" in the castings before, but they were made by non-OEM manufacturers like SK and HKS. Matter of fact, the SK manifold adapter that bolts onto the stock 75 exhaust manifold is a very nice piece, and looks OE! The placement of the turbo is almost exactly where Nissan placed it 6 years later! So close, as a matter of fact, the STOCK Nissan drain line fits if you reclock a stock turbo center section about 5 degrees! BTW, the stock Single Piece L28ET manifold is still available new, and is cheap!

Remember what I said at the beginning: GO FISHING! If you get what you want, you are ahead, and start the search anew. Apparently while I was away it didn't meet reserve, but went to a decent $5K. I personally would not have sold the car for $5K, and would proceed with the conversion. 7K or above, it would have been the minimum I would have taken for a sale. It is, after all, only a 73....

The sad part is that people just can't leave it be. I've said it before, I come here because elsewhere there is no moderation, and the site suffers due to it. Whatever the Admins Desire, the darned well should do. Especially when it keeps information flowing, and keeps the troublemakers out.

Hmmmm, looks stalled. Spring always seems to be the hot time of year for the "q-tip and carnubba wax" crowd. nothing ventured, nothing gained. I wonder what happened tothat guy from Norway who bought JeffP's car?

yeah, ditto on the photos, Xander. This sounds like some aftermarket piece rather than Factory Nissan. Like the guy in "Dirty Harry": "I gotsta know..."

Welcome to the realm of "The Turbo Group Fueler" It was a device that used the conecpt that if you can supply fuel for 10psi at 6000 rpm, then your system can supply enough fuel for 20psi at 3000 rpms... I could not get one of the unit,s despite knowing some of the development guys from being stationed near them on Okinawa in the 80's. Was an interesting little device, and really gave (as you put it) really punchy low-end response.

A "T" in the line should work fine, be quick to install and easily answer your questions. Do it and see what you get.

I'd agree, keep it if you don't get your price. Just keep in mind that having $2000 more to work on your project (after purchase of a second car) is better than starting from zero. Look for "project cars" for sale. Things with all the bits exposed, and lower prices. Spring is the REAL time to gather these types of bargians, so don't get in a hurry. I hope you set a $10K reserve on it, and be quick to contact high bidders after the sale ends if it doesn't meet reserve. If anything at least you have an idea of what the market value of thevehicle might be. Will have to go look at the ad you posted. Hope you showed the interior with all the stuff stripped out so you can show "Checked thoroughly for rust, and could find NONE!" You watch, I'll bet money overseas buyers will contact on it. Keep your fingers crossed! GOOD LUCK! EDIT: Wow, 12 hours and already to $1300+. That's $100 per hour. hopefully it keeps up, and by close of auction you will be a very happy seller, indeed!

The system JeffP is looking at out of Pantera Specialists has anti-lag and does it through rate of throttle closure sensing, map reading in the plenum, etc etc etc Also has a "flat shift" capability when dealing with the turbo. Basically leave the foot flat to the floor, limits engine rpm and uses retarded timing and later phasing of injection events to keep boost constant during shifts... Coool...

Question: Where are you taking your boost gauge signal from? I have my wastegate signal taken from a port I tapped in the intake manifold. I used an old turbo fitting, and a hole for an M6 bolt that was there no more, greased up a drill, sunk a hole, greased up a tap, and tapped it. So it takes pressure reading from the intake plenum. But I'm curious as to where you are reading boost pressure from on you gauge.

James, you know where Spearco gets thier cores made, right? ATI, the same people who supply Atlas Copco with air-to-air intercoolers for air compressors (hmmm, similar, but different!) They also supply the cores for Ford and Banks, and just about anyone else you can think of... They are a German Based company with applications engineers here in the USA (Salesmen) I can look up their information when I get home if you like. They seem very willing to sell whatever they have in stock if you supply the specifics. We were using them as a go-around for OEM Compressor Applications. While they would not sell us the "same" core or build as they would supply to the OEM for obvious supplier agreement reasons, they were more than willing to supply a "Custom" application with our own part number on it that was basically a reverse-engineering of the A/C I/R, Quincy, etc air coolers. On an aside, the Garrett (Honeywell) R&D Lab in Torrance CA has a full Intercooler Fabrication facility. They can braze the plate and fin coolers together on-site for their own testing. Can you imagine what goes into the scrap bin after the dyno testing is done? LOL

I know what you mean Cyrus! Always seems when you WANT something, there's none to be found, but after you GET something there are a DOZEN or so for cheaper that surface in the next month. A lot of it is market timing. Mark My Words, it's only a matter of networking with the right people, and waitingfor the "spring cleaning season" to roll around and the deals start rolling in. I keep a file of "Fairlady Friends" in my laptop, and wherenever one comes up for sale, a post goes out to them. you never know what will show up, and unless everybody you know is looking FOR you at the same time, it never seems like there is a deal to be had. My bud was out looking for Z's one day, and casually mentioned there was a nice little Datsun 1200 for sale for $1500 in this guys yard, and an old Datusn Truck out back. Plus what he thought was a black 510 in the side yard. Before he could go any further, I said "go back and ask him how much for the 510!" Now, ANY 510 in SoCal seems to go for $1500. Period. Sure there are the station wagons that someone finds for $300, or thereabouts, but they always keep those deals themselves. What I ended up with was a 1969 Datsun 510 (early style) COUPE for $250. While it's rough, all the glass that was broken is included with the car, and in an odd twist of fate, a car half filled with dust from the desert suffered a rot-out of the driver's side floorpan, but without a SINGLE spot of rust anywhere else on the car! So the key is networking, and having the capital to move on an oppportunity when the time arises. And selling this beauty will definately give him MORE than the $500 he expended. And I would venture to guess a solid, stripped interior car would be available for well under $3500. For what it's worth, I have a TOTALLY STRIPPED, titled, 72 Shell with ALL RUST REPAIRS COMPLETED sitting in my backyard, and have had it there for THREE YEARS. Someone made me an offer on it a month or so ago since they needed a stripped chassis for a racer car project, and I promised it to them. For $200. Killer deal, especially if you find any number of rusted out hulks that are complete for well inder $1000, combine the two for necessary parts, and Viola! Rust Free Race Car! But nobody here asked for a shell now, did they?

like I said: good rust-free partial conversion are CONTINUALLY on sale in California. The most I would expect to pay would be $3500, and in any case, with all the structural things he's doing anyway, the "rust repair" will not be a factor on just about any California Car he builds. Fact of the matter is the car is worth at LEAST $7K in it's condition (maybe do a rub out on the paint and some cleaning). It may go for considerably more. When you look at similar economic comparisons, a rust free car you buy for $3500 is a BETTER deal than one you get for $500, when the $3500 one leaves you with $3500 in the bank! Keeping the car will only be a continual cash outlay from this point on. Selling it, and though the project waits for a few months (maybe) while he sources another car, the starting bank account will be $3500 for the project (if he buys a $3500 car, MORE if he buys a less expensive unit). Better cash flow management. If he even buys a $6500 car (which will be DAMN NICE!) he is no further BEHIND than he is now. I ahve seen what $6500 buys in California, and I'm telling you he would be FAR better following that route! Most 240's go for around the low $3's. Competent clean starter cars. For the extra $6500, chances are you will get something with performance items like wheels, tires, roll bar, etc etc etc.... All will be saleable commodities, and will not cost him one red cent more out of his pocket. I'm looking at this from a purely financial standpoint, and my feeling is that an equivalent donor can be found or built using proceeds from the sale of this vehicle and STILL leave him more money for the project. This isn't back east where a rust bucket will set you back $5K. This is California. Hell, I'd bet you could go to a local Lein-Sale Impound and find several donors that wouldn't cost more than $200, and having a professional rust repair done wouldn't cost more than $3K. I mean, look at the facts thusfar: he wasn't planning on using the INTEROIR. That says I can look for "project cars for sale" in the classifieds, as buying a car WITHOUT an interior will be MUCH cheaper than a stocker complete. Heck, even Bastaad agrees: "guaranteed you will find someone selling a done or very-close-to-done V8 swap Z, usually in the $3000-5000 range" And THAT is exactly what my position and strategy would be.

Dude, I don't really care one way or another what you do with the car, but like many people get stuck in a rut, step back ad THINK about your goals. Now JM was saying it was your car. He's right. But he is also being very closed to what to me is the most obvious choice: PROFIT. When I see your car, and now seeing the documented photos from the interior, the collector value (STOCK CARBS EVEN!) is VERY high with this vehicle. Some anal-q-tip up their butt concours guy will spend in my estimation 7K for this car! Could you USE that $7K to defray the costs of the buildup you plan on doing? Could you find a NICE SOLID fairly rust free car in SoCal (Or even Nor Cal) from someone who has already started a modification routine and now has to sell for whatever reason? I think so. I believe your project while requiring some more time to prep will be FAR better off if you PROFIT from this purchase, and use the proceeds for the buildup of another car you can get that is just as nice, but with a roll cage ALREADY IN IT! It's not that the car is "too nice to cut up" FAR from it! But the condition it's in will ATTRACT suckers to the light and get you a LOAD of cash in the process. I would SERIOUSLY post the photos on E-Bay with a reserve of $10 or $14K, and see where the bidding goes. if you get nibbles above $7K, contact the biddres, SELL IT, and reap the rewards of a find like this! That is what I would do! You amy do something else, but for me, having a $7K return on a $500 investment is just TOO GOOD to walk away from. You can always say "no" to any offer below what you think is fair.

Screw that NEW stuff! I want that pile of rusty OLD metal in the article! So let me get this right: "Liguid Metal" holds the rights. it can be flattened, squeezed and moulded like plastic.... Anyone remember "Terminator 2"? "Have you seen this little boy?" Something is going on here. And I think the Black Helicopters have something to do with it!

then again, what's your plan for those steel wheels? i got money for ya when I return form Taiwan. I need a set of early wheels for the Fairlady I'm restoring---won't have the right datecodes, but they will "look" close enough. When was the last time anyone here saw factory trim rings and center caps on steel wheels with 6.45-14 Bias Ply tires? Talk about Skinny Tires... And yeah, Bias Plies sound SOOOOO much better than radials when you do a "spite burnout" And I couldn't resist: it's at CarTalk at ZC.C. This find is just to good. One of the hoaxbusters kind of stories. Almost like something I run into. Oh, and did I say "You SUCK" yet?

CLEAN IT AND SELL IT! JeffP had a car in nice shape like that, and it sold for $7K to a buyer on E-Bay in norway! I'm sure you could pick up a NICE donor vehicle forthat, and have plenty of money left over for some moer LS1 goodies when you have that money in your pocket! I would not hybridize it, would SELL it, make a buttload of money, and then buy something that perhaps was already formerly molested for a swap. Chances are you will be no worse off for it, and you pocketbook will be in much better shape. This has absolutely nothing to do with "preserving" a 240...this is totally economics. This is money left in your lap, and to not take advantage of it, and buy another for around $3500 (leaving the remaining $3500 for that Vortech Supercharger kit for the LS1) would be a REAL sin! And on the subject of Petaluma... Dude, you SUCK!

7500, then 7800, now it's 6500... Well, nice cool night air in Indianapolis is where I need to be with my Land Speed Car for running a record, because, dude, you have the ONLY stock car that will run those numbers... Please, stop while you're ahead

all looks good. YOu can simply install a "T" fitting and loose nothing. make sure you use the restrictor to cut flow to the Turbo---even through the small 1/8" orifice in the stock "T" the turbo is over-oiled. JeffP used a restrictor---check his webpage for the size he used...

Mooneyes dealer off Norwalk Blvd in Los Angeles can help. So Cal Speed Shop? They got all the old hotrod stuff.... Might be Moon Industries...

retorque the headgasket, and try again! And I bet now you learn why people like me don't put anti-freeze in until after break-in!

"Information is not knowledge Knowledge is not wisdom Wisdom is not truth " another: "meanwhile, mary was backstage..." Muahahaha! Yes, if you plan on modding it, what difference is ther but A/C that actually WORKS!

J. are you my long lost twin brother, separated from me at birth? Or perhaps my REAL younger brother? As those are my exact reasons for preferring a 260 over a 240. My supposedly "real" younger brother "saves money" buy changing his own oil (adds a quart when low) and doing his own brakes (waits till he hears metal, replaces rotor and pads) and actually called me to wonder why his Civic (!!!) lunched it's THIRD engine whilst going 110 down the Lodge Freeway in Detroit! (I think it was the last guy that worked on it---he didn't tell me I needed oil. 'what was he doing?' Brakes...) Yeah, you can't go 110 with only a quart of oil in it, Nick... Are you SURE you aren't my REAL brother. Please tell me the nontechnically inclined bro isn't really my spawnmate...

at Bonneville one year, there was a red pontiac trans am that blew out his T-Tops at over 280mph, and went into a flat spin. Talk about the "brown shorts driving club"! I don't like T-tops. They scare me... Can you imagine having TWO 1/2" metalstraps holding your T-Top on, and STILL loosing it. I wonder: "Did his ears pop?" There HAD to be decompression when it flew off. I know that ears popping in other sphincters puckering may be a sympathetic response and occur simeltaneously, but in many cases puckerage does not stop...uh.... well you know.