Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Holy Necropost Batman!
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If you are considering this modification... a few bucks goes out the window just as fast as 1,000!
For this intake port design, it's not uncommon to find ITB's in the 56-62mm range being used in N/A Applications...
When you put lift to these valves, you are close to 400 cfm port flow!
One thing Jenvey has going for them that most of the others don't is that they have selections OTHER than the standard 109mm flange-to-flange distance. On a DOHC head, space to the right shock tower, no matter what you are in, will be at a premium. Competition Torquer Plenums for this intake have 9 to 12" runners to give performance in the 3,000 to 8,200 rpm range. If you think about trumpets and intake tuning, then that's the length you will want on ITB's as well (trumpets) and that will get tricky.
Using Discarded RB26 T/B's might be an idea..
Or as Alan T has reminded us: JECS ECGI (Japan Engine Control Systems Electronic Controlled Gasoline Injection) was available in late 1971...
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Scotchbrite, Lacquer Thinner, Shoe Goo, and some Armor All.... does wonders fer ya!
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Interesting reply from Steve:
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Hi ,Thanks for the contact ,however I'm true to the Z car and never install American made engines in them .I do have a customer that has a Series 1 car also with a LT1 ( he bought it done ),and when I talked to some friends about tuning it , they All turned their noses up on this engine ! In fact if your not using a LS type engine they think your wasting your time . I don't now much about the LT engines ,but from what I heard ,I wouldn't even want a Vet with one . Sorry but my scope of knowledge is 6 cylinder inline and v-6 stuff .Since I have made over 500 hp with a L series engine ,I never saw a need for engine swaps . Sorry ,but I also don't know anybody that could help you do a sanitary or clean install either .Good Luck ,Steve"
Is this Mr. Webb? I think I know him as well...
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" i meant to mention that with no load (ie just revving while sitting still) the engine revs much higher (5k+), another facet that seems to be point in the direction of a timing problem"
Why is that? Why do you think timing is a problem under load when it needs more fuel than when you free rev it and need less fuel.
Why wouldn't this indicate a plugged fuel filter, plugged fuel pickup sock, or my personal favorite the 'one starter jet down the other up' sucking fuel dry issue, etc?
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Same answer as the other place.
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My 260Z looked like an Apollo Capsule Prototype with all the 12V plugs and inverters all over the place!
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" i looked at my old one and the input does look slightly different, so i think thats probably my problem."
What does that mean?
"The brakes come on maybe 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch sooner on pedal travel"
That's actually quite huge, in terms of a master cylinder... leading me to the next question:
I gotta ask, have you adjusted your rear brakes properly? Grabbing at 12:00 and spinning the wheel it should only spin 90 degrees (1/4 turn) if it goes more than that, it's too loose and needs adjustment.
This is generally the cause for excessive pedal travel and everybody misses it as the assumption is you have them properly adjusted to begin with. You usually have to back the brake adjuster back off to even remove the brake drum.
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Nope, the 81 CAS on the crankshaft, is 100% compatible with the 82/83 CAS in the Dissy, the ECU doesn't care. The waveform output to MS is IDENTICAL.
Trust me on this one, I was down to Oscilloscope testing of the waveforms...a case of Moosehead, and one Flying Beckman 100ms O-Scope later I came to the realisation that the 81 CAS I STARTED with was good, but FAILED once warm (probably why the car was in the JY...) and that the damned Comm Chip in my laptop was bad, and corrupting my MS files when I hooked up to it to do fueling tweaks.
Fixed it by putting an 83 CAS on it, plugging it in, and using a new laptop.... since then, running FAMOUSLY!
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I never got a 2psi low indication when my turbo went...
Cornering on extended turns of a specific direction can make it happen as well, not just straight line acceleration.
40 lbs is 4 HP. Do a tune up and use good plug wires. There is your downpayment on the insurance policy in your passenger's footwell!
You wanna lose 40 pounds? Go on a diet. Nobody here I've seen looks like Dith Pran on "The Killing Fields"...
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This thread made it to Build Threads.com Congrats!
http://www.build-threads.com/build-threads/more-diy-casting/
Better call the "Buildthreads" people again! LOL
NECROPOSTING 'cos I LIKES it! (Cue Alice Cooper "Cold Ethyl"!)
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Wow! are they planning on making a brand new L series head and block? This might be good!!!!!!
They can make crate engines soon.
Well...the head is in work, unfortunately this set of trumpets won't fit!
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119641-twin-cam-head-for-the-l6-from-derek-at-datsunworks/
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Again, Keith, trailer capcity rating INCLUDES the weight of the trailer. You are hauiling around over 4,000 lbs. on the tires and axles, not 2,500 lbs. Please listen to us, get a dual axle trailer and stop trying the be Colin Chapman.
Two things:
1) look at the weight carrying capacity of the tires. If you have good tires...good TRAILER tired (like Load Range E or so) you have a decent single axle carrying capacity. Those tires will be $147-250 each. If one blows, I hope you have a spare. With a four axle trailer similarly constructed you can use cheaper tires...but four of them and if you blow one it's not necessarily a show stopper.
2) Colin Chapman's philosophy killed a lot of drivers. His winning streak really started once they put a 400HP Ford V8 into his miniature chassis and started breaking other things and killing a few more drivers... There is a slanted aura on his design philosophy, and people disregard the deaths precipitated by insufficient engineering margin. He designed light because he was underpowered. Once he got power, races started to be won in earnest. Never underestimate the power of power.
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Yes, there is a big black thick O-Ring that goes in there, and then a sealing O-Ring on the carrier that holds the gear (what the cable screws on to) that seals it to the hole in the tranny.
O-Rings n Things (they're in the book, I know there is a location in Fontana by the Cal Speedway) will let you browse, big fat o-ring in Nitrile or Viton should run you under a buck! There is an import junkyard nearby there with LOTS of Nissans, you can get one there as well...but the buck entry fee will cost more that ballparking it at OR-n-T...
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If only you knew someone with a Rottler Valve Machine and the index reference points for the K20.
If one (Number 1 or Number 6) is in the same relative position as it is on a K20 that Rottler can sink guides, valve seats per factory specs and then moving on from there is pretty easy rather than starting from scratch.
Boy, would it suck right now if the site crashed and we lost this thread...hahaha
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My wife dropped extended towing off AAA under the rationale of "we never use it", I'm not paying $100 a year for something we never use.
I found that out, upon calling AAA after my turbo "made a noise" on the last run of the day at MSA AutoX.
End result of trying to make it home babying it the 10 miles from race venue to my house?
Well more than the insurance cost that year, what the full price tow was quoted as, and what the insurance was for several prior years...
Accusump is insurance, not a bandaid for poor design. That's how I view it.
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Alternator dead driving on a dying battery?
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So from what I have read a turbo cam install would not help much. Is there any way I can figure out whats in there ? n47 head some porting .
Huh?
The issue is in your turbo. Pull the turbo and find out what it is and then get the right housing to match the displacement and rest of the build. The boost you SHOULD get is 20psi in 1st gear at 3,000 rpms or below.
The ONLY thing in your list of parts that will cause what you are describing is a misapplied turbo hot side A/R that is far too large.
I'll say it again: I bet money you got some B.S. 1.06 A/R as some racerboy thought they needed the big A/R 'for all the flow through the engine' and all they did was ABSOLUTELY kill the proper response from the turbo.
My bet, a 0.63 A/R will get you full boost in 1st gear at 2500-3,000 rpms. The External WG will likely control any creep issues at 7,000 just fine.
Fix the hot side A/R, nothing internal to the engine except for a 175 shot of NOS is going to pick up your bottom end.
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On this MC, The "R" is where "F" should be, and "F" is where "R" should be. A local Pick N Pull has a '70 with a grade "A" MC, so they say. They want $40 for it, i'm going to pick it up and hope it works alright.
MY SUGGESTION WOULD BE TO GRAB THE CROSSED LINES FOR THE LATE MC AND INSTALL THEM ON THE NEW MC YOU HAVE! You can bend up the stock lines but it won't look as good.
Use the later (cheaper, easier to source) MC and get the proper lines to do this. They screw in to the MC and Shuttle Valve down below and the conversion to late MC is COMPLETED. Bleed and be DONE with it.
I have done that on two cars previously since the price of the early MC's went up... Take the MC and LINES from the junkyard car.... Keep the MC as a CORE ONLY.... keep the original lines with it, and get the proper "Crossed Lines" for the later MC and install them.
This will cure the problem.
I would not trust my life to a Junkyard MC.
The crossing of "F to R" IS THE PROBLEM, nothing else is wrong...this happens all the time, and happened to me personally when a PO did it....his exact words were "I didn't like how those brake lines crossed under the master cylinder so I straightened them out to clean up the engine bay".... So yeah, your stock lines CAN be crossed to fit the later MC and it will work but they will be a royal beyotch to get straight into the MC! Just buy a set of 72-78 lines and install them on your early system. That is IT to do the conversion to the later master cylinder. Bleed it and be amazed.
In fact, you can get the stock lines and stock cylinder from the junkyard as a core set....and just bend the lines you have. That will solve it as well.
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I'm going to say buying a $65 harness and getting rid of your 81 CAS will solve whatever problem they were having with the MS.
There is ABSOLUTELY no reason to change to an 82/83 CAS to use the latest harness, the stock harness, like any other using the 81-83 CAS is irrespective of the CAS used, they both put out EXACTLY the same signal, hook up to the EXACT same connection on the harness.
But again, I would change to the 83 CAS module (you are calling it a 'distributor', it's not, it's the CAS. On the 81 it's a "Distributor" -- on the 82/83 it is the CAS)...
My bet is for the cost of a new harness ($ Cheap) and putting in a functioning 83CAS all the problems they were experiencing with the MS using the 81 CAS will go away.
The drivability of even a poorly calibrated MS is night and day better than any stock 81-83 ECCS System.
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"Whenever I let off of the gas when the car is moving, the tach needle jumps down, maybe 300-500 Rpm, but immediately recalibrates."
Look for a pinched wire, begging the obvious logical response of "when you take your foot off the gas pedal the tach needle SHOULD 'go down' and continuing thereforth..."
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RE: Derek's response to Alan T.
"Not the market I'm going after. This project is as much about proof of concept as anything else. Patternless casting has arrived. It seems expensive, but for this type of project it's ideal. "
What, tax deductible R&D with Advertising Possibilities? Like "BLAKE MACHINE 3.2 DOHC"?
Noooooooooooooo.
You mean trying to KEEP your money to do thing that are cool for your car isn't a thought? C'mon people, there are MANY reasons to do this project if you are in the casting business, other than an altruistic self-sacrificing love of the marque model of Sir Lawrence. Consider this more like good old Mr. Raffles, what!
Man, I gotta go find some Sapphire and Tonic... the mosquitoes here are oppressive. What was it that the Dutch drank out of Batavia? Bloody hell, I'm not having any of that Civet-Crap Kopi!
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Cometic will stamp out mls gaskets for you for all sides if you order 25 sets btw... might even be fairly economical considering they can just add ports to existing gasket designs for intake/exhaust if you're keeping any of them k-series style...
That may be what their advertising propaganda says, but their customer service in response to JUST such a request is met with cold shoulders and a resistance of the CSR to contact the engineering department to discuss ANYTHING other than what they already have in stock.
Yes, they will cut any gasket you want, but they are resistant far more than you're making it sound.
Twin cam head for the L6 from Derek at Datsunworks
in Nissan L6 Forum
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The work of the indomitable MITI... The later cars had "JECS" decals on the side, I don't know what that particular one had on it...since it said 73 I was assuming the later, even though the identification was "ECGI"...
The MAP sensor on the firewall is a dead giveaway, identical to First Generation BOSCH in the TypIII VW, and the Isuzu Bellet.
I've got half a dozen of them at home from my VW Days... Would make a nice looking period-correct 'cheater' system for those at the car shows to argue about...