Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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In 30+ years of dealing with Bosch and Bosch-Licensed Systems, I've never run across "seized" injectors. Gummy, sometimes sluggish, but never terminally stuck to the point that sending an activation signal to them didn't work or get them working. Most assuredly not all six to be sure! All you need is one or two to initially fuel the engine and get heat into it... After that, overdosed Seafoam in the fuel works wonders,
It runs on starting fluid, you have spark.
Is this fresh gas? If not get some in a can with an external fuel pump and use a gallon to flush your rail and lines of old fuel.
Refill with a new batch of fuel (don't even try the tank until you clean it!)
Get fuel pressure and make/break the injector and ECU connectors a couple of times, start it up run it with that first gallon of gas and full can of Seafoam in it, then move on to leaks and cleaning the fuel tank of the goo from fuel that cooked down since 1988.
I can't count how many I have started like this. When they shut down the most that happens is the injector pin tile might get stuck...but that's VERY rare, and is universally cured by a good injection pulse to the injector.
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Is this cosmetic staining or actual scoring? What happens if you polish the area with red Scotchbrite and lacquer thinner?
Carbon staining at the top from overheated combustion chambers comes to mind...
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"These are sweat equity dual cam heads"
I see a confusing title change to this thread overdue:
"The Sweat Equity Twin-Cam Head for the L6 from Derek at Datsunworks"
Much like Jimmy Carter, you're doing with a Custom DOHC Head for the Datsun Welfare Layabout Crowd what he did for Housing on a similar group of n'er-do-wells, layabouts, and the terminally working poor!
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
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This was envisioned as a kit build. The basics like head, cam, rockershafts, and intake were provided...leaving the builder to finish sourcing the part trim level so desired
The head likely would at most have been block machined, maybe have valve guides and seats installed but that's about it...
The idea was to keep the people doing the build free form a tethered group of parts they may not want. The stock VTEC profile cams, and stock junkyard K20 parts should net very impressive gains...
The bore is optimal at 86-89mm...so flat tops or maybe,...
Headers as Derek Mentioned might be made cheaply from similarly bore-spaced existing units...
But tubing is available from Burns Stainless, as well as header design assistance when you buy their merged collectors, so...
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The much disparaged "Old White Guys" do stuff...
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^^^^^^Indeed, agreed!^^^^^^
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I believe the answer would be "why"? The printed sand is good enough for the finished product and allows for immediate development changes anytime in the run (Ultimate Turbo Port head, Ultimate NA Port Head, etc...)
You make a pattern, you get what you get forevermore! Like marriage, but with more onerous implications on personal performance!
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Not in the least... Very close to parallel to the ground.
I went through an excruciating ordeal restoring JPG files from my cloud backup...and come to realize I have nothing with me before June 2004, or for all of 2010.
Trailer was used extensively in 2001-2003 on the 2+2, then was pressed into junkyard service on the Coupe and occasionally the Frontier...and those got no photos of them out there! Bummer, sorry!
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I am fat. Really fat. If I can do this, so can you...
Recline your drivers seat so you can slide back between the shock towers. Remove the interior finisher cover from your hatch...
Stick your finger up inside and you can feel the latch mechanism in there. Push it down and the hatch opens.
This works locked or unlocked--all the locked position does is move the striker 90 degrees so it doesn't push down on the latch. This is the way I've had to open my hatch since glassing-over the hole for the button when I installed my whale tail. No time for a solenoid install is my excuse...
You can fit a large screwdriver in there if you need to, in order to pop the hatch. New spongy-springy hatch seal making it hard to pop open?
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I sent the e-mail this morning, hopefully it's checked and I get a response by Monday Evening stateside time.
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Datsun people are cheap. This is a VERY limited Niche Market.
Even at 1/10th the price of OSG...and the ability to do what you want valvetrain wise...most are punters.
This WILL take effort on the purchaser's part, the more turnkey it is, the more it will cost. If people aren't willing to put in the sweat equity, and are unwilling to put in the $$$, then we're back to shit in one hand and WANNA in the other and see which gets filled first!
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It's common for people to SWEAR the S30 has an LSD because more often than not the car lays two decent black marks when launchng.
That's not LSD, that's just proper engineering and management of weight transfer!
You see it all the time. When they say "LSD" I ask why they say that, and the above has ALWAYS been the reason.
They're benign idiots for the most part. Annoying, but benign idiots!
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I guess I should say likely my bumper is lower than it should be from stock height. It's not slammed, but it sags low in the back.
I got a photo somewhere...
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"If you don't have the money to do it right now, where will you find the money to do it over?" -- Gene Berg
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I resisted.... But my desire was so great it leapt the ocean and conjured a like minded individual to post it....
I should only use my powers for good...
"Those are not the donuts you're looking for....move along!"
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Xnke, you are right on roller metallurgy, JeffP knows this from his days at Sig Erson
Trust me when I say, one way or another a roller cam has been in the works for an L-Series based on Malvern Racings work for some time. The metallurgy is set, it is known. That has been worked out.... Were you running a set of Malvern Roller Rockers? If so JeffP may want to talk with you about that aspect of the L-Head work...we were looking at a split cam tower to allow an unrestricted lift compared to the journal towers currently in the L-Head.
It's just getting the billets with journals done that is the stumbling point right now, and I think I know where to solve that...it's just contacting the guy when I'm on the other side of the planet!
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This is the typical S30 project...everybody is "interested" until it's announced that it's not free, we aren't paying you to take them off our hands, or they don't get their car featured in a magazine for installing it.
As I said, the LY Head was quoted at €35,000 for reproduction, and they needed one core to dissect (¥3,500,000-BARE) in order to make the cores and set it up... Then you gotta make valve train.
This projects R&D to first raw casting isn't close to the $76,000 proposition WITH cams! The valve train is easily available.
I said from the outset there were three components than needed to be sourced: head, rockershafts, and cams.
Give me a second to work on those billet cam blanks. I may have to make a phone call in the middle of the night, but I know for sure I know someone who has done this before!
Screw the rest of those guys out there who "WANNA"! I'll do it because I'm the deviant with the head nobody else in the world has because I know which had fills up first.
And I'm not a "Service Engineer", I'm a "Service Intestine"---I make shit happen!
And that hand ALWAYS fills up first compared to "WANNA"!!!
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^^^^^ this is exactly my thought... Don't cut the lobes except round. At RC 30-40 they can be ground easily enough.
Ron cuts cams for $100 each if you're manufacturing (at least L-Series) and the stagger is the same it's just setting up the machine.
It's the rough blanks. If you got bearing journals, and round cam lobes (like the old Nissan Billets) you're ready to go to the specialist grinder.
I think even replicating the stock cam profile would produce startling results in an L-Series Conversion.
The vast majority of S30 owners aren't frugal, they're CHEAP. Period. As John Coffey said "One paycheck away from selling their car to make rent!"
This never was more than a niche buy part. OS Gikken sold 12 in their first run back in the 80's. I know three owners of that head, ridden in one of them when new, the other two bought used heads complete and are building their vehicles now.
They paid significantly more than what our proposed finished cost would be... As likely would I for a whiz-bang part nobody else in the world had...
I don't know that I'd scrap it...just not commercially produce it! There are those willing to see it through. Me? I'm having a beyotch of a time finding my contact email for the cam blank sources from the 90's! I know. A guy who was cutting billet blanks for Hondas in the 90's for a SoCal Cam Supplier. I KNOW he wasn't selling them for $1,000 each, and I KNOW the finished cams were not sold for significantly different prices than later "core exchange" cams that were from cast billets.
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I think that's the key---cast is cast...low grade and soft requiring a hardening process.
Using a higher grade rod billet and chucking it in a CNC. lathe would allow the rough shape to be done, a little finish grind on the journals then off to cam grinder (soft) for cam profiling and nitriding.
I think that would do it, and allow rough work to be done in-house to some extent.
Or cut lobes and journals and use tubular cam cores like on Enterprise IMO. And White Superior engines. Keep the core, replace lobes and journals at overhaul time. Nitrogen, hot oil bath, and some woodruff keys!
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Or miles could have been blind-drunk and clicking on what he thought was the right area of the page, only to be a double-vision phantom...
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Man, 280zs are heavy.
"The car has a complete leather, dynamated, 500 watt sound system interior, LS1/T56 conversion, MSA Aero II ground effects & 3/4 tank of gas."
I would say the dynamat and 500 watt sound system don't help those numbers... I doubt "power to weight" in this vehicle will be realistically affected by making it miserably loud and tinny to drive in 'the quest for lightenss'.... Remember, Colin Chapman, for all his weight reduction dogma really didn't start winning until they strapped a 400HP Ford V8 in the car...then he stopped 'adding lightness' and started 'adding reliability'.... as Boris the Bullet Dodger says:
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I will never run 8" wheels. Ever. Not on anything that goes on the freeway. I've seen far too many explode or literally burn the bearings out.
You pretty much got it right, the hubs look identical to me, the only difference seems to be the fender position and they put 12" rims and tires in the box.
Think about that for a second regarding rpm's and bearings.
I can say positively that my 4' HF Trailer with 12" tires tracked great at an 80mph emergency lane change in Texas, survived being fully loaded and being completely 100% visible on an off-road incident that sent it up in the air, and tracks perfectly at triple digits. I put 15,000 miles on it in one trip, and the next year 18,000 miles. I had a photo of it loaded on the back of the 2/2 at the Mackinac Bridge (the good side) -- the tongue is about horizontal right below the bumper of the stock-height early 240Z bumper. I used a drop hitch to keep it level on the old Frontier, and on the F150...though likely I don't really need to do that it keeps the load level.
Mine has had 800# on it, as well as whatever 3 L28's complete out of the junkyard weigh. I double-decked it with a sheet of 3/4" plywood, then laid a 1/8" thick piece of diamond plate aluminium on top of that, using big washers underneath to hold the anchor bolts down... I can CRANK on straps (like those big 2" wide truck straps) to hold stuff down on it...the platform is rigid enough to take it without stressing the frame.
I put a U-Bolt on the tongue and attach a 48 Quart Cooler there for JY runs, and I have two spare tires underneath on locking hubs...basically I have a spare set of tires AND hubs under the trailer that if I need to I can drop and put on in an emergency. NO call to do it in 33,000 miles yet. And most of that is at 75+ mph!
I DID change the ball receiver to be 2" so I didn't need to change anything else in my collection to have one of those 'multi-hitch balls' for the CL3 Receiver at the back of the car. Probably would be fine with the 1 7/8" it comes with...but I didn't want it since I didn't have the ball---and I got the part cheaper than a decent ball...sooooo 2" conversion it was!
I added the front swing-down wheel but took it off later. It's not that heavy and all I ever do is just drop the tongue and go anyway, leaving it chained at the hotel or the track. If I move it around the yard I just pick it up. Unloaded it's really light.
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2' of 1 5/8" tubing will fill to pressure almost instantly. If anything that will be minimally noticed on spool, but result in boost control lag on boost, or possibly slight excursions into over boost.
You can fix it to be more responsive... But that A/R...
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My Corvair did that with the water injection unit plugged in...I unplugged the water injection unit.
400 SBC starter problems
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
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Make sure the thing is shimmed correctly so as not to bind.
That is the first thing I though reading your post. Chevy starters are NOT and no never have been "bolt on" there are starter shims to move them off the machined mounting pad to get proper engagement, other the Bendix drive jams in place, won't release, etc...
Shims are as near as a coke can...that's what we cut them out of, or you can buy official precut parts to make the pinion engage the flywheel properly and release...