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Tony D

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Posts posted by Tony D

  1. HAHAHA! Over by Car Craft and "Fabricators Alley" on LaCadena...

    They can do it...

     

    Which scratches my brain---there was a fabrication school over that side of town. Basically build your off-road buggy frame under the guise of 'Career Schooling'... Nice Racket if you have the time. Better if your company has tuition reimbursement and you can fly the need to learn precision welding techniques...

  2. Dale Manufacturing will urethane recondition your existing damper.

     

    They are a somewhat odd lot...being closed "every third month" and this year than means MARCH. So you will have to wait a while to send it to them...but it's within a week, LOL

     

    Many have sent their stock parts to him for rework. I have been dealing with them since sending my first Corvair Dampner to them in 1979. I think they said 10,000+ dampers have gone through their shop, and 7,500 of them have been Corvair... I know of at least three Datsun Dampers (ZX) that have gone through there some time ago and the owners have been nothing but complimentary at the service. I have always been happy with their Corvair Dampner Work.

     

    http://hbrepair.com/harmonicbalancer_018.htm

     

    But I'd still look at JeffP's Extreme 280ZX Page 22... "Damper Bolts" towards the bottom of the page.

  3. IMO "Wrong Answer"...

     

    if you don't know what you're willing to spend for that kind of work, you probably are about to be seriously shocked. It's fabrication, and good fab shops will run you $120 an hour. I can see a proper firewall being fabbed up taking easily 80 hours without prep and paint, depending on what other work needs to be done to make the carstraight before starting work (Frame Jigging at $600 to start and then tack in all the bracing.)

  4. " I have the MSA $90 version damper and the bolt center for attaching another pulley is way off?"

    What does that actually mean?

     

    Are you asking about spacing to bolt on the additional pulley? Does the pulley have to be 'sandwiched' with a longer bolt like the old ARA setups? Of is the pulley bolted on and you have an issue with bolt length/washer combination.

     

    I'm not following what you're asking about. 

  5. "I adapted the Bus throttle cable to the Subaru throttle body. Didn't like it. Not one bit. The combination of the 18 mile long cable, with two more bends, made for a snatchy throttle feel. Various springs in various places subdued the feel to heavy numbness. I considered modern cables and liners as well as hydraulic operation but ultimately settled on an electric throttle. This (and other wants) ultimately lead me to aftermarket EFI."

     

    Translation:

    I was adapting the throttle cable and while I was in there I decided...

     

    LOL

     

    Nice...

  6. L26? The first post said L28.

    Yeah, early/late are different.

     

    But the KA24 Bolt and 1/2" thick washer (or more) is the way you want to go.

     

    Look up the Extreme280ZXT site on Angelfire. (JeffP) he has the details on the bolt and washer and why you want to use it.

     

    Don't be constrained by what was stock, there are better options out there, and in your higher horsepower application, you will want to avail yourself of them!

  7. Unless you had an aftermarket A/C pulley in there, it should fit.

     

    Most people use the longer bolt from the KA 24 in conjunction with a far thicker washer to get proper clamping on everything up front. You should consider that.

     

    The 81 L28ET pulley is no different thickness wise than an 82 or and 80.... The timing ring is bolted on to the pulley with three bolts and indexed by a nib in the pulley itself. 

     

    The only difference is what washer you are planning to use, and if the woodruff key got hung up and you're not fully seated as a result.

  8. The OEM 240ZG 'overfenders' were well made, and fitted properly. Your problem is that you are confusing 'copies' of copies of copies ( sometimes 'copied' from something nowhere near the OEM shapes and quality ) with The Real Thing.

     

    If you bought the best available replication of the OEM quality, then you wouldn't have a problem. So pay Marugen Shokai for their product and be done with it.

     

    I would echo Alan's comments. Brian Ortiz states they were $300? Well my set of NISSAN ZG flares were ¥30,000 in 1989.... And I was crying when I bought them because had I bought them in 86 instead the ¥-$ conversion would have no been 268=$1 instead of 108=$1!

     

    And those fit fine...it's the crap 12th generation or "improved generics" that have the flex-crack and flimsy build quality.

     

    Yes, I do. Still with the part tags on them. No I won't. Don't even ASK!

  9. OR.....

     

    do you mean, elapsed miles on the vehicle? To which I would answer: I bought the donor car with 225,000 miles on it, and installed the engine. I have since put 110,000 miles on the engine with no issues.

     

    I know plenty of people with 475,000 miles on their original engines.

     

    I also know people who blew their engines up the first year. HOW you accrue miles is almost as important as how many. Again, what are you getting at with the curious nebulosity of your question???

  10. Exactly what is the question? It makes it sound like because cars are old, somehow their mileage must suffer? The Geo Metro's of old returned mileage figures not yet equalled in non-hybrids. The old B210's got nearly 40mpg at highway speeds despite turning 4K rpms.

     

    L28ET's turned in low 30's when steady state cruised on the highway.

     

    That seems reasonable enough for me. Exactly what kind of mileage is one supposed to get before one is classified as 'not caring about mileage'? My tow vehicle gets 8mpg when an inner dually goes low...compared to 10-12 otherwise... And towing? Pfft! It is what it is. 

     

    I mean, really, what is the question being asked here, as there is an inference that is unspoken and I think needs clarification. I know plenty of strokers out there in S30's that run in the low 30's as daily drivers. Compared to anywhere from 20 to high 20's before modifications. My 260 gets 27mpg, I don't think that says "I don't care about mileage"... so I'm really trying to get what you're asking?

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