Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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73 at best... no way near a 69.
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On the way to the Holiday Inn (south side) from the Highway, there is a multiple railroad crossing in a stairstep configuration.
If you get a mid 90's Lumina, and hit the secret speed along with proper throttle application...you can get big air to fly over the hood of a police car sitting at the cross street at the bottom of the tracks.
Do NOT scream insanely about "what idiot designed that crossing without a warning to slow down! etc etc etc." That's been used successfully once to get out of the ticket...I doubt it will work a second time.
Took me a week to get that right....
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Wouldn't that then be "What's your VIN?"
I'm sending this exchange in to Financial Times Editorial Page. I think I finally got one!!!
"Yee Haww, 'Murrica!"
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The 'aftermarket' is identical, they are the same engine save for the bore size...
That's like saying the 350 Chevy has a better aftermaket than the 327.
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Someone actually 'tunes' to 14,7?
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Vehicle
Identification
Number
A.K.A. "Chassis Serial Number"
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Or, your "low oil pressure" is like everyone elses' prior posts and it's a defective sensor.
If it's bad on one side, it may be bad on both...so the 'low' oil pressure is causing the fuel pump to shut off intermittently and cause the rough running...
Determine what oil pressure you ACTUALLY have with a mechanical gauge.
Second, make sure the fuel pump cut off portion of the switch is closed when the engine is running.
Mileage can make low pressure, and in many cases putting a turbo pump will restore flow to mask the wide clearances causing the throwoff.... but you're a LONG way for that band-aid at this point.
Likely, the most you need is a new oil pressure sensor! (Or proper weight oil, or proper idle speed adjustment, or...)
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The Suzuki is in a Suzuki.
I have an LHD Converted 1990 Suzuki Every 660Turbo (nee Daewoo Damas now I suppose)
I have to up the boost a bit to break the tires free to do the brodies... though the Speed Sensor MAY be on a pulser wheel inside the front differential (it's Pushbutton 4WD)
I will NOT be boiling all four tires...not with this engine! No matter what boost I'm running.
Now, taking a Sunny Pulsar GTi-R driveline and bolting it underneath... Heeeeeey.... We're on to something there!
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Sorry this was so fast I could have verified the difference between LHD and RHD at months' end (in about two weeks, actually.) I think the 'bent end' is opposite...it's why smarter manufacturers went with a straight shaft on the wiper for universal application.
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Ah, OK, I can see them on the laptop... you're right, the OP said:
"Here is where it sits now, explain to me what the engine assembler was thinking and how it can all be adjusted back to OEM specs."
The one photo shows the notch advanced, and the other photo shows the typical 'Set it to #3 for Race' mythological position....
The answer is partially in the last sentence and:
"Set it back to Notch #1"
Too bad it took so long for someone to look at the basics and SEE them in the photos! (I should log on my laptop and not my iPhone so much!)
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I can't see the photos. But like I said "if they slipped a link" that would do about that...
It's the micro approach. Looking at everything and discounting those macro things that the basics tell you to test first.
Low Vacuum when not engine wear related, or leaks, usually is in the valve timing. And the first step to determine this is adjust the valves and do the basic tune up. This takes 45 minutes. With the valves adjusted and the timing and carb/fueling adjusted for best idle....you know your baseline.
Now, had that 45 minutes been spent off the bat, and those photos (you can see, I can't...) would SCREAM that the link is slipped---someone did a misinstallation of the cam./head.
Actually, during a valve adjustment, I usually look for that dash alignment on the cam. If it's not right...then you correct it as part of the valve adjustment if there isn't an outward reason for doing it...
Like I said, it looks like we eventually backed into it.
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I refused to let video games into my house. One parent from Salt Lake came to me raving about my kid and how neat he was... He says "Man, Nino is such a neat kid! He came up to me with a stick, and said "Hey Terry, look: "A Nature Toy!" -- a STICK, man! He's such a cool kid! I wish I could get Michael to be more like him!"
I remembered that day in the mountains "What do I play with?" Boy, what's that there? "It's a stick." No, boy, that's a "Nature Toy" pick it up and figure out how to have fun with it!
And so he did...
I, being gone so much told him: keep up the house while I'm away. You can stay here as long as you like, if you don't have a job, keep up the house. Go to College, but if you don't, keep up the house. No rent... Just keep up the house and be gainfully engaged in SOMETHING and not just laying around doing nothing.
He ended up leaving to be on his own anyway. I would rather he taken up a military position, but he's working as a hydraulic mechanic, and the company is paying for all his schooling as an Engineer because finding a ydraulic engineer is not easy...
Ironically, in his rebellion to become independent he's mirrored my exact career path. At 22 I was in the USAF, specializing in everything everybody else didn't like, namely Compressors, Hydraulics, and high-end Frequency Converters...
"Luke, I am your father!" LOL
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Old Cruise Control Systems used magnets glued to the driveshaft and a hall sensor. You can glue them on almost anything you want as long as you can mount a sensor. The VSS is really not that touchy, if you can determine the pulse rate up to around 35mph, and fit your magnets accordingly, it will work. Frankly if you have electronics background you could use ONE magnet, and then make a signal multiplier to output the required waveform accordingly.
Really if you change to an Electronic speedo, the VSS for it will splice a signal just fine. Tire spin brings up a strange quandary as I don't recall if you loose power steering assist...I mean, I can see how you should as the VSS says you are going 70 when you're standing still... But doing brodies really isn't where power steering excels. It's in parking lot maneuvers with wide tires and big steering angles at very low speeds.
Most cars, no matter how wide the tires, going forward at speed really doesn't need a lot of assist. The faster you go the lower your steering angles need to be to keep a stable vehicle.
I'm going to have to go do brodies in the Suzuki and see what the e-steering does. If I can get it do to smoking, rolling, boiling brodies in the first place...
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Get the EMS that has local support in your area.
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Next step, spark timing adjustment.
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"There is no try. There is do, and there is not do. Concentrate."
Yoda
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That's not what I said.
I said the assist is variable, and at highway speeds, it's a direct connection link with no assist.
"Twitchy Steering" i don't know, I do know alignment, quill diameter, bushings, etc all play a part in road feedback. If you look how they work, you see the direct line to the rack and pinion.
When steering assist goes out at highway speeds the 'heavy' wheel you feel these days is simply the same effort it used to take before the power steering came into being.
Remember those 15" steering wheels in a Corvair.... no need for power steering, you just made up for it with quick hands.
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Oh, soooon soooooon he will realize something.
Or not.
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And I second the point on 'it may be just the gauge'... cam timing can cause high cranking compression. But a gauge being uncalibrated and unknown really isn't a great indicator of actual pressures being seen.
I, too, have a 225,000+ mile "185psi compression" motor in my 76... It's not the number, it's the relative number over time that you are looking for...
I learned that long ago when a certain shop in town kept sending the machine shop overhauls. Guy was using a gauge that probably read 75# low... chronic "needs overhaul" diagnosis... One cheapskate Scot decided to get another opinion and took the car to our shop for a test...our cranking test showed 145psi, where his showed 75-90!!!
Gave the guy our gauge to take over to Herb's shop, and had Herb replicate the test... "Hummm, maybe this 'ole gauge has seen better days..." Went out and bought a new one and suddenly the three overhauls a month out of Herb's Shop stopped coming our way. Bummer. I got laid off.
Trust your instruments, to a point. VERIFY your instruments regularly to a known good source!
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I've seen people slip a link on the chain during head swaps. Makes the engine run gangbusters a lower RPM's but absolutely DIE OFF in power above 4,500 or so... BUT...
Degreeing the cam is again, down the road from the basic fact that the valves must be adjusted FIRST in order to get proper readings!
Quit dicking around and adjust the valves FIRST, and THEN stroke on about checking everything else!
When in doubt: follow the instructions.
If there's a big 18" high pile of grassy-twig filled crap in the center of floor, chances are it's the elephant in the room that laid it there, and not the mouse in the corner.
Quit looking for mice. Feed your elephant peanuts so he's bound up and this big wad of crap ceases to be a problem.
THEN chase the mice!
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They're out there. Functionality is similar to a Turbo Tom's setup. Anything applicable to a Turbo Tom's setup is equally applicable to this setup. I have that manifold myself.
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There is no "Best" -- only you can determine that in your situation.
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"So I set the crank pulley by hand to 0° verifying the piston is TDC, however between 10° and 0° per the crank gauge the piston doesn't move up or down."
Welcome to the discovery of "dwell", the time the crankshaft is swinging from going down, to going up (and vice-versa)... at BDC this is extra time the cam can be open and velocity filling the cylinder with fuel air mix. That intake valve won't close until that swing is complete, and then the piston may even be moving up in the cylinder slightly... Same at the top where you are exhausting pressure from the cylinder after power stroke. It's not a direct transition from up-down. It's up-swing-down-swing....There are zones in the crankshaft rotary motion that have no linear motion from the piston. That's why multiple cylinder engines seem 'smoother' in power delivery: there's another cylinder still making power when the other is swinging through that dead zone.
That's why it doesn't move up or down. Once it stops moving up, that's TDC. and once it stopped moving down that's BDC.
L26 4BBL and L28e
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
That's a foolish interrogatory statement to make. You're slovenly mistaken.
I stand by what I said, if you can't comprehend what I'm telling you, then you need to do more basic research.
The internet would be a good place to start. This took maybe a microsecond to turn up:
http://www.venolia.com/forged-pistons.htmlThen again, here I am spoonfeeding again. Argh!