Tony D

Yes John, anybody asking why I left Michigan in 1984 and haven't looked back since will simply be referenced to this post as a prime example.

What Isuzu Commonrail Turbodiesels exist? They are generally GM swap friendly. They're in Chevy Colorado trucks all over Asia.

Shut up, that's not what I said. You want to bang home whatever point you want, go right ahead. I stand by what I wrote. It's not what you twisted in your infantile repost.

My line was "I drive an air-cooled, turbocharged, rear-engined two-door"! Porsche entered their minds...and invariably they asked "is this a Porsche?" Naw, it's a 66 Corvair Corsa Turbo!

Sounds like a hoot! I remember the Hot Rod buildup using the 60 degree V6 which was virtually bolt-in! I drove a new Chevette for quite some time in the 80's. My favorite was the 84 Diesel. I don't know why, but the Isuzu i-Mark Diesel made a solid 10-15 mpg more than the identical setup in the Chevette Diesel. I always thought mating a Geo Metro and Buick GEN2 Supercharged engine cradle amidship for a GM-Version SHO-Gun build...

And, as my lawyer once told me: "Truth is an absolute defence!" Listing the name of the shop in conjunction with the photos of the workmanship and failed components in a post soliciting opinions is far from being either libelous or slanderous. It merely informs people of your experiences. What people choose to do with that information afterwards is up to them Though likely a lawyer would say to not mention the shop until negotiations or litigation are complete to use as leverage to get concessions...

I agree with JC on this, the quality of the engineering work is not "workmanlike" which is the standard in CA. This IS NOT anything you need a lawyer to settle or litigate. The Steps: 1) return to shop and have them make it right. That means perform the modifications in a workman like manner. That means without the hideous monkey welds and properly radiused cuts that do not promote concentrated stresses that promote sheet metal tearing. They will eat this cost, if they deem parts are now required that cost sharing would be negotiated but lean heavily to it was what should have been done in the first place. Alternately, you take it to another shop (see JC's tag line) for estimates on PROPER installation/repair of the components. Present this to the original shop for consideration on payment. If they refuse...and refuse any refund of monies paid... 2) Spend the $40 in Small Claims Court, and go for the costs to make it right. Once you have a judgement, collecting is your problem, my personal favourite is to get with the Sheriff and show at the shop for confiscation of shop equipment or inventory for resale equivalent in (wholesale) costs to your judgement. The monies here and failure don't warrant anything above small claims court. Use your relatives to coach you on how to present and to prepare, but they can't use a lawyer there, either. It's easy and fairly quick.

My Suzuki may get a CX 12x12x3 unit for nother reason than it's got mounting provisions that let me relocate it easier, and it's cheaper than the dinky stock one which is 12x8x1.5! I think it will work just fine, and given how long I'm on boost with this thing, the additional volume is not an issue. I may as well run mechanical supercharging! LOL

Interesting sales approach, demonstrate a total lack of understanding of resonant frequency dampening of components....and the try to use it to keep from doing work! Generally stainless doesn't require thermal coatings as it withstands the heat much better than mild steel. It also does not transmit heat as well, so there are less radiant heat issues for nearby components. Nothing says you can't apply thermal barriers to SS, but it would be more for nearby component radiant heat reduction than to protect the SS component from degrading (like on mild steel.) Then again, a nice SS or Aluminum Heat Shield between the heat source and component works just as well!

Just ran the hardline for my boost gauge in my Suzuki Van. Adel clamps securing a 6mm tube to the support stanchion over the plenum, and a 6" length of FI Hose (suitably clamped) from hardline to plenum fitting. Runs under the floorboard, up through a grommet in the floorboard into the dash, and another 6" flexible into the gauge. Should allow for engine movement no problem. Realized the boost actuator on the F6A engine runs from the plenum to the turbo actuator via a hardline with 75mm flexibles on each end! Not the normal "from the scroll" typical of most early 90's turbo setups. Then again, it is routed through a boost control solenoid to prevent overboost. Pretty sophisticated for a 657cc three cylinder! Hahaha

Considerably cost reduced, and more than economically justified! Thanks so much for taking the ball and running with it to an end that benefits everybody! Hope Datsun slugs buck-up for a product head and shoulders above the traditional offerings for aftermarket distributors!

Nothing stateside will drive that IAC underneath. You can use MS with the PWM to run it. No real performance gain. The dual butterfly is nice, it keeps manifold vacuum higher at normal highway speeds up to about 3/4 throttle. And when you step on it, that last 1/4 pedal travel opens the big plate fully. I found I got markedly better fuel mileage using this throttle body than a stock 50mm TB or the aftermarket 60/65mm units.

A photo is worth a thousand words...

I'm sure someone from Facebook will snatch it up, they're loaded, those Facebooking anime fanatics....

Closer to hanging on my wall!

Drop it and wait for the appraisal, will ya? Gullible or not, wait for what the experts say in the real world, on THIS vehicle and not vague generalities. Both your posts are totally inapplicable. They BOTH specifically address LATE MODEL vehicles. And now it comes, bombastically: "Any intelligent person reading my posts would see I specifically stated these guidelines about lower value (halving of value in fact, in the case of my then-new Geo Prizim) ONLY apply to late models and NOT antique and collectible vehicles!" Did you read and comprehend the links you posted From the first: "1. Have the vehicle inspected: This is one of the most important things to do if you're considering the purchase of a car with a salvage title. Bring a mechanic with you for an inspection. You might also arrange to take the car to a body shop. A car professional will have a better idea about whether the repairs were done correctly and can spot any red flags, such as frame damage or parts that still need repairing." A car professional will have a better idea....uh...I think I said that, and said to wait for it rather than making absolutist statements which likely will be proven incorrect in this instance (but what do I know right?) From the second (don't even have to read past the first line): "So you're considering buying a LATE MODEL BMW..." But nonetheless further on: "There are occasions that a perfectly good car gets a branded title. A good hailstorm can do thousands of dollars of cosmetic damage, leaving the mechanicals as good as new. A fender-bender can cost more to repair than an old car is worth." (Apparently the case here.) and "These cars are so difficult to value that Kelley Blue Book doesn't provide pricing on them. "There are too many variables and unknowns," says a KBB spokesperson. " meaning GET an appraisal as being fender bender end with documentation may impact the value not one whit! (Been there, seen it firsthand!) and further (another stated reason by many here to not put stock in the salvage title boogeyman): "It's your car -- forever--If you buy a salvage-title car, plan on owning it until the wheels literally fall off." (OP says that is his intent.) Curiously thy point out exactly what I said about "clean title cars" and taking it "with a grain of salt as well: "Fraud is common You may be driving a salvage-title car already and not know it. Title washing can make it difficult to determine if your car has been in an accident and rebuilt. ... Large insurance companies take advantage of loopholes as well. In 2006, State Farm settled a lawsuit with 49 state attorneys general after admitting it had resold between 30,000 and 50,000 totaled cars without salvage titles." Oh my! Clean titles on damaged vehicles? SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! Argh! "Reading is Fundamental"! Please nuance this argument and realize these are NOT "Late Model 370 Nissan Z's"!!! The lowering of LATE MODEL cars' values (they speak of 5% reduction in value, "minimum".... Ooooooh! A whole 5% reduction in value! I guess WHAT car it is DOES make a difference if 5% is a minimum loss and my Prizim was 50% -- kind of making my point,,,thank for posting a link that reinforces what I've been saying all along and flies directly in the face of your statement "ALWAYS significantly less" I know people who would say 5% is floor mat and paint sealer territory! and nowhere near SIGNIFICANT devaluation!) Late model boogeyman are not the OP's concern. It's IN HIS CASE... And, as appraisal should prove out,,,..totally unwarranted if the documentation he says exists in fact is extant and presented to the appraiser. I know you would rather post Internet links and not wait for the professionals to bear out the price/value of this vehicle....but let's allow that to happen, regardless of how intimidated you are at the fact my bombasts are validated. I know that will bug you, if for no other reason that it will give me a smug smirk and deeply satisfying sense of being right on this point so hotly contested by you for some reason. Remember, it's not just me who said it wasn't the case, we all will smirk when that appraisal comes in as we expect it to!

Just to recap and point out the reason my opinion is bombastic. Because absolutist comments are ALWAYS true on the Internet. Just for the record. And now, let's wait to,see what that appraisal says...

That appraisal will (should) change some people's "opinion" to be more in line with my "bombast".... As I say, and loudly as it repeats factual statements and not opinion: don't take a "clear title" as anything more than words on a piece of paper. Unless that factory fuel injected 260ZG-E was the Tokyo Motor Show car from 1973, that clear title with "73 240Z" (2+2) is obviously wrong. And yes, there are those who will insist that indeed is what it is, while intelligent people will rear back and go "uhhhhhhhh, yeeeeeaaahhh!" A title, is not all everybody is making it out to be, any salvaged can can be "washed"... More common on late models where there is a financial incentive to do so for monetary gain. As oft repeated, bombastically apparently in some people's eyes, is that there is a point in the age and collector status, or availability of the series where the "type" of title starts to mean very little, if anything. What becomes FAR more important at that point is condition, and DOCUMENTED HISTORY. Let's see what that appraisal says .... And who admits they were incorrect in their bombast.

Define "High Compression"

Hahahaha, the money you spent on bodywork could have flown you to Arizona or SoCal and paid for gas back with a rust-free car of similar price. This is no secret. What is this obsession with rust and repairs in the Midwest after "The Way" is known? Afraid of flying? I don't get it. If you started rust free, I guess in three months your bud could have painted it and you could have spent time all winter detailing instead.

Prove it does. You can't. And that's the point of this whole thread. You are making a statement without a clue as to the market. CONDITION rules the day FAR more than 'title type'! ANYBODY who has had a car "repossessed" when VIN Checked by Police despite having "CLEAR TITLE" will know exactly what I mean. I've see it happen far too many times. Just because the title is "Clear" does not mean the car isn't stolen, salvaged, flooded, reconstructed, that actual vehicle....etc. I can show you a factory Fuel-Injected 1973 Datsun 2+2....clear and clean title. Is that car worth more than a 75 2+2 with a "Salvage Title"? Obviously it's a fraudulent or incorrect title of some sort, but it's "Clean and Clear"... Any intelligent person will take what is on a piece of paper with a grain of salt. Less so today because of the moronic internet culture which pervasively dissuades thinking and promotes "if it's on the internet, then it's true' ergo 'if it's on a piece of paper, then it REALLY must be true!" This matters to people who don't know what they're looking for, don't know the marque, and are looking to spend money without research. And they WILL get burned.

I reserve comment on this subject. You know MSA is just a 1 evening BBQ event this year because they don't want to diminish the ZCON Event Attendance...right?

That 1.0 in the F-Car overseas looks tasty! Nice transplant for the Every Van...hmmmmmm...

Anything over 30cm (12") really should be hardline. Long rubber hoses can deflect or collapse. You will note ECCS cars had relatively short rubber runs to Hardlines. Fuel injection hose works fine, I used standard fuel hose to since 1985...I should think about replacing it, it's rated to about 21 psi, whereas fuel injection is rated higher. Some of the cool VW CIS rubberised lines are rated at 100psi working pressure. Silicone is all the rage, but it's. For dry systems, oil and fuel present need a special fluroelastomer lining in the silicone, it will degrade quickly exposed to rubber solvents like oil and fuel!

Drilling holes using a magnetic pickup will do the shame thing...take a look at Dodge 2.2L Turbo Flywheels to see how they did it. Three holes 120 apart should not affect balance but balancing after work is always advisable. I'm preferential to the flywheel as in an accident it's still safe. If your magnetic pickups get hit sensing the flywheel, enough other things broke that you're immobile anyway.