Tony D

I think you missed the point---with all this time, you could have removed the block, stripped it, properly caustic dipped it, and reassembled it without ANY reservation about what was inside, outside, or left over!

Automotive Hobby: "Some Assembly Required!"

Yeah...that would be good!

HAHAHA! Over by Car Craft and "Fabricators Alley" on LaCadena... They can do it... Which scratches my brain---there was a fabrication school over that side of town. Basically build your off-road buggy frame under the guise of 'Career Schooling'... Nice Racket if you have the time. Better if your company has tuition reimbursement and you can fly the need to learn precision welding techniques...

I should hope not...

Also, reference Post #9 here for links regarding that damper bolt: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117344-81-l28et-crank-pulley-bolt/

Dale Manufacturing will urethane recondition your existing damper. They are a somewhat odd lot...being closed "every third month" and this year than means MARCH. So you will have to wait a while to send it to them...but it's within a week, LOL Many have sent their stock parts to him for rework. I have been dealing with them since sending my first Corvair Dampner to them in 1979. I think they said 10,000+ dampers have gone through their shop, and 7,500 of them have been Corvair... I know of at least three Datsun Dampers (ZX) that have gone through there some time ago and the owners have been nothing but complimentary at the service. I have always been happy with their Corvair Dampner Work. http://hbrepair.com/harmonicbalancer_018.htm But I'd still look at JeffP's Extreme 280ZX Page 22... "Damper Bolts" towards the bottom of the page.

You didn't go to Jeff's site, did you? Bottom of the Page: "Damper Bolts" http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page22.html

Caustic Tank Hot Dip... For all the work youve gone through, you could have pulled the crank and pistons and been done with it by now. And had ARP Rod bolts that won't break and ventilate your vinegar block at #5 when you rev it hard the first time out for a drive...

God Forbid the thought of Datsun Parts in old stock... Has anybody tried that? My favorite remedy is to take 2+2 springs and cut coils. You don't sag. But it's not a stock spring rate...muahahaha! Custom Wound Springs are not difficult to get either.

Well, there you go! Moot point...

Thank you!

IMO "Wrong Answer"... if you don't know what you're willing to spend for that kind of work, you probably are about to be seriously shocked. It's fabrication, and good fab shops will run you $120 an hour. I can see a proper firewall being fabbed up taking easily 80 hours without prep and paint, depending on what other work needs to be done to make the carstraight before starting work (Frame Jigging at $600 to start and then tack in all the bracing.)

You mean the round port header? Because that's what's on my N47 Diamond Port Head... For an 810 with recirculating ball steering, I think the header for a ZX with similar steering should clear your box.

" I have the MSA $90 version damper and the bolt center for attaching another pulley is way off?" What does that actually mean? Are you asking about spacing to bolt on the additional pulley? Does the pulley have to be 'sandwiched' with a longer bolt like the old ARA setups? Of is the pulley bolted on and you have an issue with bolt length/washer combination. I'm not following what you're asking about.

"I adapted the Bus throttle cable to the Subaru throttle body. Didn't like it. Not one bit. The combination of the 18 mile long cable, with two more bends, made for a snatchy throttle feel. Various springs in various places subdued the feel to heavy numbness. I considered modern cables and liners as well as hydraulic operation but ultimately settled on an electric throttle. This (and other wants) ultimately lead me to aftermarket EFI." Translation: I was adapting the throttle cable and while I was in there I decided... LOL Nice...

That's an Intercooled blow-through setup.

L26? The first post said L28. Yeah, early/late are different. But the KA24 Bolt and 1/2" thick washer (or more) is the way you want to go. Look up the Extreme280ZXT site on Angelfire. (JeffP) he has the details on the bolt and washer and why you want to use it. Don't be constrained by what was stock, there are better options out there, and in your higher horsepower application, you will want to avail yourself of them!

Unless you had an aftermarket A/C pulley in there, it should fit. Most people use the longer bolt from the KA 24 in conjunction with a far thicker washer to get proper clamping on everything up front. You should consider that. The 81 L28ET pulley is no different thickness wise than an 82 or and 80.... The timing ring is bolted on to the pulley with three bolts and indexed by a nib in the pulley itself. The only difference is what washer you are planning to use, and if the woodruff key got hung up and you're not fully seated as a result.

What's your budget?

^^^^^ Agreed!

Head usually measured on granite or other surface plate with height vernier/height gauge.

I would echo Alan's comments. Brian Ortiz states they were $300? Well my set of NISSAN ZG flares were ¥30,000 in 1989.... And I was crying when I bought them because had I bought them in 86 instead the ¥-$ conversion would have no been 268=$1 instead of 108=$1! And those fit fine...it's the crap 12th generation or "improved generics" that have the flex-crack and flimsy build quality. Yes, I do. Still with the part tags on them. No I won't. Don't even ASK!