Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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That's where my EVAP charcoal canister sits!
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Apparently The Conservators of Uncle Ho's legacy see it to nix my viewing of his video...grrrrrr....
I'll have to watch it when I get o Manila tomorrow.
Got one just like this, thanks or documenting it!
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Run what you got, spend your budget on suspension upgrades and a driving school.
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It was claimed by the poster that the Anime had it...but not ONE shred of visual evidence was presented to support it.
And as I pointed out, the Anime I saw was a virtual tracing of the original motion picture...which had a single.
What I pointed out then was the typical fanboy teenage penchant for reading a spec somewhere (which also was never cited) and the ascribing those characteristics to a photograph that shows something entirely different. Lets also take into onside ration the Wikipedia page refers to a 260 Z! Uh, ok, and it's twin turbo.... Someone outside Japan obviously wrote the page!
Like the beginning of the thread where someone states with authority the Twin Turbo TC24B1 headed L-Engine is an "S20"!
It's been my experience with Japanime that is generally strives to be very technically correct. Example being eXDriver, where the specs and drawings of the vehicles are painstakingly reproduced correctly. Such was the state of the art when I watched the anime and the Manga.... All single-turbos.
As I stated before, I would defer to Yetterben on this, his obsession with the Devil Z was far greater than mine, and his knowledge dates back to the Manga which originated the Devil Z phenomenon.
I believe the lumping of the Devil Z into a discussion on twin trpurbo L28's is incorrect. It's not a twin from anything I have seen, and which nobody else can cite visual proof. At this point, all that has EVER been proffered to support a TTDZ is talk. Sure there was Wikipedia saying something...about a vehicle I witnessed in being contrary configuration. I trust my own eyes, hands, and Ektachrome FAR better on items of vintage Japanese Performance than a fanboy page on Wikipedia written by a kid in his mother's basement, wearing underwear, who wasn't even born when the items in question were running around!
I gotta ask Wantanabe if he knows where the old SSS car went...why didn't I think of that before? It was near our istributor's factory in Saitiama....
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JeffP's runners are the FIA homogolated size, -1mm (34mm)
His head has 35mm ports that flow 218cfm, the 34mm extrude-ported runners lose 30cfm over a match-ported Cannon Manifold.
But it does have apt hat anti-reversionary step at the head to help with overlap reversion.
700HP+ on C16. More possible so he's looking at the Group Buy Manifold being done now as he wants to retain the stock runners (shortened) for now...
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WHICH VERSION?
Anime
Manga
Original Film
Remake Film?
I have no IMPRESSIONS about what I stated, what I asked about was a shot that proved a Twin Turbo on ANY VERSION as the SSS car was a single, the original film was a single, I forget what the remake film was.... It's 12 time zones away.
I vote for this necroposted thread to go to the Tool Shed, nothing good will come of it, it will rehash the same shite over that has already been covered.
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As the previous post points out, HOW you test is very important as it greatly affects the outcome.
The FSM has detailed tests to check the performance, based on ambient temperature. I'm recalling "max cool, recirc, windows open" and a minimum temperature of 35F Center register somewhere around 69 or 75F ambient going up linearly from there. So 95 would be around 55F...but CHECK THE FSM! Don't go by my recollection!
That said, generally it's said R134 is 10% higher. It didn't seem to matter n my aftermarket setup it returned the same 35F as R12 did under the same conditions. Maybe the compressor made up for the deficit by running 10% more, I don't know...it seemed the same to me.
I recently recharged my GM Dually with that "Freeze 12" stuff off E-Bay, and like the cans said the pressures were off 10%, but thermally it performed exactly as the R12 did previously. Yeah, it took the season for it to leak out...but at least I checked it and it worked. Having AC in a Dually when you're loading parts in 110F heat is nice! LOL
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It's a 76 280Z who cares about a salvage title?
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Anyone mod the shock support from 280z into the skinny 240z bumper - to prevent small incident into a major body repair?
Oh Gawd, just buy a Neon!
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I'm with Darrell, I used my old Asics Tigers for years.
Onitzuka (?) makes street shoes that look very similar to those old Asics Tigers.
Back then, they were like $20.
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I touched it....
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Talk to JeffP...
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USDM is like "Military Intelligence"
There, by definition, can never be a "USDM" anything on an S130.
There can be "JDM"
There can be "Euro Market"
There can be "North American Market"
There can be "North American Market, US Specification/Canadian Specification"
But since the car was not MADE IN THE USA then by definition the US Market is not, can not, and never was DOMESTIC for these vehicles!!!
Everybody outside the JDM has SOME version of an EXPORT SPECIFICATION.
It ain't "D" unless it originated in that country.
"US Market" YES
"US Domestic Market" impossibly NO!!!
Is CDM "Canadian" or "California" market spec?
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That's what tube beads, rubber hose, and Oetiker clamps were made for...
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Well, a good start is to use the webbed manifolds, and not the early ones without webbing...
Blocking of the radiant heat from the exhaust manifold....
Or appearance?
I like soy on my rice!
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That's why they invented math... And why you watch your tach during a pull to correlate at least one point to your speed.
From there, maths work backwards and torque is resolved the old fashioned way.
Remember, engines don't make horsepower, they make torque which is quantifiable via load cel deflection.
From there, ALL horsepower is calculated.
You can easily go backwards knowing ratios at speed, which translates to RPM's... Which will let you calculate torque.
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Glossary of Terms is the first section in any engineering paper. Engaged/Disengaged in/out consistent/intermittent.... What is "is"?
Push the clutch pedal down to the floor, hold it there. With the transmission in Neutral.
This stops the clutch disc from turning the input shaft through disengagement of the pressure plate clamping forces.
As this happens the noise you heard (variously described by others as "rumbling" "grinding" "puttering" "crashing" "rough rolling" "loud hissing" "roaring" "rough popping" "rattling", etc.) will taper to a silent point.
Bring your foot up to feather-engage the clutch disc and start it turning, the ONLY component turning internally to the transmission is the Input Shaft. It has a bearing on it. It will start to make a bad bearing noise because there is a load on it, spinning the input shaft and the outer race remaining stationary.
If you have left it in gear when you do the, with the back jacked up and blocked...tires will turn but the countershaft bearings then start spinning. It will make the noise exponentially louder if they are bad.
In 4th gear, it power transfers directly front to back in the tranny--input and output bearings when clutch is turning.
The only item that could really make the noise that goes away with the clutch depressed is the input shaft bearing.
Bizarre cases notwithstanding I've found if it quacks, swims in water, has a flat bill, and answers to "Daffy" chances are it is a duck, and not a giraffe.
The noise you describe may simply be from the wrong lube or a bad input bearing...but obviously the rest of he works is fooked as well! So it's more than a rehearing to get this one going. Have you gone through the power flows in the FSM for the transmission? (I don't remember if it covers them or not.) that identifies what is doing what in each gear to troubleshoot what noises mean what.
It's midnight, and I gotta go see dead Uncle Ho early in the morning, so I'm signing off for now.
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"Pharaohabq: Thanks for the more encouraging words."
"Here man, taste somma this, naw man FREE! It's cool, no charge, no pres-sha! You don't have to...
But take a little taste, it won't hurt...
Nobody got hooked from one little taste, now did they?
C'mon, don't be square...take a dare! Try some, it's good for your hair!"
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"It would be fun to put thermocouples on the intake and return fuel hoses to see exactly how much heat is transfered to the fuel at running temp."
Been done, dismissed here as anecdotal, so no need to dig up the numbers again. They were both "on" and "in" during that testing, as well as in the tank.
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"The Z has been demoted to a weekend project toy when I'm visiting home for vacations."
Dude, sadly I can totally relate to you on this point!
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There you go! Not something that has sit on the shelf and is getting ready to expire! Fresh Stock, someone pick it up, PLEASE.... This is killing me! LOL
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That 106 Kw is what...145 HP or thereabouts? Pretty darned good, definitely not "losing" anything, and the 'low plateau' is very interesting, it would be nice to know what is happening right there.
It would be nice to have a rolling road like a Mustang to hold specific points and let everything stabilize to see what is going on when you can make a bump up and down with the AFR, etc...
Very good showing, indeed!
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Most hose shops will make up AC Lines. Too late now, but on these older systems if I don't see evidence that the original hoses have been changed...I have them made up new. OC Hose off Baker down by South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa makes them crazy cheap and they will do it while I wait if I bring the old hoses...many times I'm paying a hose, crush sleeve, and assembly labor only (use the original fittings over)...
The dryer can be 'baked out' if you aren't married... Put it in the oven at 200-350 for a couple of hours put on some gloves and plug it with some silicone plugs after it's hot and you're good to go. The activated alumina inside is an adsorbent, and you will get an oil vapor off it.... AutoZone or any auto parts retailer can usually get you the Factory stuff, or you will use a 'universal' dryer if you have an aftermarket system. Do you have copper lines in the engine bay, with short rubber lines from the Compressor to the Condensor and Copper line to Compressor---or longer flexible lines all over? If so, consider replacing that aftermarket plumbing with factory stuff. There were plenty of AC systems retrofitted to 280s' and the factory stuff slides in easily. If the evaporator is in the dash, instead of in a pod under the dash on the passenger's side, you will get better performance from a Factory IN-Dash system retrofit.
When you say "return" hose, what do you mean? The one from the pump to condenser? Usually that is the one that blows because it can be 300+ PSI in hot weather. After that, the refrigerant (in the stock system) is in copper lines as a High Pressure Liquid to the receiver/accumulator and on into the passenger compartment. But it's usually the (short) rubber line from compressor to Condenser that blows because it's both HOT and High Pressure. After the passenger compartment, it's under 100psi if it's under 100F, that's usually no problem even for older lines .But that compressor discharge line IF ANYTHING is always suspect. Even more if the PCV system was leaky coating the rubber hoses with oil mist and caking with dirt.
Turbo intake manifold fabbing
in Fuel Delivery
Posted · Edited by Tony D
JeffP is pumping 700+ through a 60mm, for a time he tried a 65, but went back to 60, and is considering one of hose 55mm units out here on Nissans...the tip-in can be an issue. He won't go cable, so an asymmetric cam on the TB is out.
The 60mm should be fine turbo, and at MAX a 65 in NA on a plenum s style manifold in the 300hp range for proper modulation off-idle.
Without a serious asymmetric cam and throttle cable setup the 70mm is tip-in hell... Drag Race only. And there's no practical advantage at WOT...
Save yer money!