Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Oh yeah, easily...
Me and Bob Heckendorf, or Larry Mason EASILY exceed the cargo weight rating of the S30.
Fat dudes find stiff springs aren't as "choppy and objectionable like a truck buckboard" either...
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That's the way it is here in the USA.
People are so delusional about the real oats of constructing a car like this...
I look and go "what would it cost me to reproduce this?"
An adult, with resources built this car. He asked experts how to accomplish what he wanted. Didn't go overboard, and put time into finishing the car.
It was a "get in and drive it across the country" -- which he did to some events, during the summer.
Frankly, I wouldn't waste my time brokering it in the USA, which I suspect is why it's on E-Bay. That is a REASONABLE selling price for this car on the international market. My suspicions are it will end up in Japan or Europe with someone who will appreciate it.
Some people don't want a project. In Japan, this is MUCH less expensive than a new car, performance that can't be equalled, and with an inspection schedule that will give the buyer 10 years of fun...
Or even longer as a "Red Slash Plated Weekend Car"
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There was an altitude switch...that is a white two-prong connector, it leans the mix across the board 7% when above he. Aneroid switching point.
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Check the FSM, the wiring diagram will make it all obvious!
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Car cost $65,000 to build, weighs in under 2400# and is ZZ4 - 400HP powered "Winston West Fast". Very well sorted car.
I suggested to the broker he contact Rocky Auto as the US Market would not appreciate the effort put into it.
You will not reproduce this car (nor even get close) for $20K!
<EDIT> And did I mention the build was done by the original purchaser, single owner of the vehicle? That car started on the lot new, the guy bought it, drove it, stored it for his kids (who didn't want it) and then did THIS to it or his own driving pleasure...
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Turbines are usually 6", 1/2 wider than stock, and can put the wheels a little outboard to boot.
Trust me, they rub. No front end damage required!
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I have to ask:
With that hole back there...how did you seal it from fume intrusion?
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The purpose of bearing numbers is local manufacturer interchange.
OEM's don't make the bearings, they source them.
I don't hesitate to use Japan, US, or German bearings...
For years, buying a "Timken" meant you GOT a Timken which was the standard of the industry. Many times off-brand manufacturers used cheap bearings in alternators, or other accessories (Toyota Alternators, specifically, seem to go 50K miles...) when you upgraded to Timken, that was the last bearing you ever needed.
But get one with "China" on it? I might pass...
"Global Sourcing" is fine if your suppliers don't take it upon themselves to change what hey put into the product to meet the spec, regardless of the consequences otherwise. China has a history of doing that, regardless of the industry served, and I suspect bearings are no different...
An OEM will continue to price-shop. Japanese aren't as bad as some... So the Japanese NSK in the car today may be a better bearing than the Chinese NSK you get from the OEM!
Additionally, going to dedicated bearing houses like Applied Industrial / King Bearing / Bearings Inc, you can specify "C-Ratings" which give closer tolerances than most OEM setups, or have higher sustained speed ratings.
Just be aware, ESPECIALLY on tapered-cone style bearings (Long referred to as "Timken Bearings" from their inventor) that the trend has been recently to separate bearing and race as separate service parts (thanks, MBS's!) and that the race you have may NOT fit a modern bearing of the same interchange size!!! The race externally will fit, and the bearing inner shaft will be the same size, but many bearings in the last 20 years have been reworked with thinner races and larger roller elements due to better control of metallurgy.
I always buy new race and bearing as a set. It's not worth it to me, besides, I always have the old one as a spare for on the road!
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The distributor photo the two spades are the blue and brown wires from the coil. Sme as N/A
There is no computer control of spark, it's a pneumatic function using the vacuum pot on the distributor.
The mystery six plug sounds like the EFI combination relay for fuel pump relay, etc...
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I'd choose to leave what's in there...in there.
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Compression is next on my list.
I know its sparking because I have pulled all 6 plugs and checked for spark. Strong spark on all.
I know its getting fuel since all plugtips where moist and smelling of gasolin when i pulled them after many attempts to start it.
You have wet fouled. The plugs. Do not use the cold start valve at al during initial start. Use a shot of starting fluid if that...
Pull the plugs, dry out the cylinders, burn off the plugs using a MAPP Gas torch until the ground electrode glows red and no more orange flame comes off.
Best if you can install thm and retry while still hot.
I like to poof off fuel in the cylinders while I have the torch...but smelling gasoline, I'd check to make sure it's not puddled in the manifold now from extended cranking.
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What's wrong with the line already in the car?
Most guys put the RX7 pump where the stock electric pump went and use the stock line, plenty big enough.
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JeffP did that and was shocked to see he same pressures under load at full boost and 7,000 rpms.
His GT35R comes on at 3,200 like clockwork.
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Exactly, you finis the bore for chrome rings and install cast iron, you're in for problems.
End gap is specified as thousandths of an inch per inch of bore. Frankly, going wide is better there than going tight.
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Plenty of junk on You Tube!
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Timken started reboxing OEM from other manufacturers quite a while ago...
Part of a spin-off and corporate restructure to concentrate less on actual manufacturing, and more on "clean pass-through" parts re marketing...
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Cruise the Craigslist ads in SoCal, line up three or more prospects.
Bring CASH to cover the asking price.
Fly Southwest from DTW-ONT One-Way
Look at the cars, buy one, drive it locally to the shop and get it ready.
Drive it back to Michigan.
Shouldn't take more than a week. Fly out Friday Night, buy the car over the weekend, tires/repairs mon-tues/trackside at Grattan the following weekend.
Piece of cake and something you will talk about for years.
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You REALLY need to get in contact with Frank Poll in Holland. He plans on shipping a container next April, and I happen to know there are more than a few rust-free 240's out there. Some with tweakage. But pretty well stripped. Lashing it up inside a container is the way to go if you have all the other bits already...
Just bring a flat caravan to claim your prize on the other end of the Chunnel... Or perhaps he could be talked into another visit to the War Museum...
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A stretched chain retards timing by moving the dot as indicated it restores proper valve timing. Exactly as I stated.
Remember all the experts tell you to "start at three on that performance rebuild!"
Chain TENSION is not addressed in this manner...which was kinda my point from the Get-Go!
It's so wrong, adding to the wrongness is part of the fun...
It's summertime.
Note in the next post, we are both saying the EXACT same thing, and I stayed consistent with the contention that dot swap page only changes timing not repair stretch.
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That was foreshadowing the setup for the "experts" comment I was preparing suspense!
My sarcasm runs DEEP...
I must let it fester somewhat then let it bubble out in little drabs...
I thought "everyone" knew to put the timing sprocket at "3" for a performance rebuild that has "high rpm" performance?
To clarify a context, I was railed against by self-proclaimed experts on their post setup on a "performance" build that stated "timing chain set in #3".... They were so convincing with their dyno pull of 145, and 1/4 mile time of 16.75 That there was just NO WAY my stock "set at #1 shifted at 6500 89mph 15.50 time slip 225,000 mile stocker could be stock." After spending close to $15,000 the kid may even have eventually surpassed my time by a few 10th... But it convinced me that "they" must all be right and I was wrong so contrary to what people think I corrected my "wrong" statements afterwards... (Not that I didn't keep things in #1, mind you...or suggest that if people want cam timing adjustment the get a TOMEI sprocket since the stocker only allows adjustment one way...)
Can you tell which is sarcasm, and which statements a re sincere?
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1 5/16"? What that in real measurements, and not graduations of The King's anatomy? 33.3?mm?
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An example:
Bought two 1980 280ZX's at lein for $100 each.
Both runners. After a month of hard driving to free up everything one was 145 across the board, one was 150 across the board. 225K and 195K respectively.
I took the 195K engine to a kid who saw the mileage, and despite my warnings to the contrary re-ringed it with a flex hone because it used about 750ml in a 1,000 miles. The 225K engine was similar, I put it in my Fairlady.
Now, years later, I am STILL using about 750ml of oil in between 1,000 to 3,000 miles (autoX vs driving interstate 80 at 85-110mph...) that was close to 80,000 miles ago. Compression has yet to change.
His engine, well... Oil consumption was "up due to break in"... Compression was initially 175 (wet) and 165 (dry)... That went away within a year.he was to 120psi and a solid quart every 500 miles by the time he pulled the engine back out.
Sadly he sold the car and bought a 91 IROC. Teenagers...what can you do, eh?
That engine sits back in my shed. I'll hone it right one day and put it in something. But all the time he spent on parts...wasted!
As with you...I got a Vair that supposedly was "hot motor"... When I pulled the cover to find lightened rods and forged TRW Slugs I actually shouted into the house to my then-wife "hey! Bring me the camera, that guy told me THE TRUTH about this engine!" LOL
Sometimes you get a pig in a poke. My good fortune offset your engine separated by 20 years!
have fuel and spark, still not firing
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Put a timing light on it and verify your firing point...