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Tony D

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Posts posted by Tony D

  1. Look at the modular Fords. Same engine in Mustang and Expedition. (Discount fly by wire now, I mean before...)

    The Expedition has a HUGE throttle body, gives the impression that the hog is jumping when you feather touch the throttle, same TB in a lighter weight Mustang would be much more jumpy...so they seriously downsize the TB size to allow easier modulation in daily driving.

     

    It's real, watch an old 3.8 mustang jump from the line compared with a 4.6... But halfway across the intersection the V6 goes "waaaaaaaaaauuuugggh" and leisurely accelerates. The V8 though pulls.

     

    If you never ran them more than 1/4 throttle in 30 foot sprints the 3.8 V6 gives he IMPRESSION of being the more powerful car.

     

    Same as the big throat TBs MSA sells. Does absolutely nothing for power, but gives the impression there has been an increase. With a lightweight flywheel, metallic clutch, the tip-in can be annoying. Frankly the best TB made for the Z/ZX was the progressive unit on the Fairlady ZX, either a dime or nickel sized primary, that took 3/4 throttle to open fully, and which would hold the Carr all day long just under cam peak torque (meh, 3500 at least)... In the next 1/4 throttle the secondary plate went from 0-90 degrees open.

     

    That TB on a turbo car makes or GREAT On-Boost modulation, and in a temperamental N/A car makes moving from a stop pretty easy as well.

  2. Well it STARTED as an inch, which I got handily...the flange thickness mismatch was covered enough I won't repeat it.

     

    0.250" on each mating face is not undoable by a long shot.

     

    2" is a different matter. Ever look into the two barrel down draught Hitachi manifolds?

     

    Too bad it's not EFI, that makes a stubby intake manifold a piece of cake! I think they are cutting 4"+ out of those runners, no problem.

  3. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/pdfcatalogs/pdf/zr/zrComplete.pdf

     

    Page 11 answers your question with no equivocation:

     

    9/71-6/72 production date, 1972 model.

     

    It's quite clear-cut, actually. Nothing "funky" about it whatsoever!

     

    You will see within a model run no VINS cross, nor do they backdate.

     

    Like I said, in the North American Market it's quite well delineated.

     

    My only dispute with this chart is the 12/74 produced vehicles as I have a 12/74 production 260Z, they were being produced. But your VIN doesn't even remotely come near any production break or change whatsoever. It's clearly on of the most produced 240's made--the 1972!

  4. Well tony that's exactly why I asked if he's sure it's a 240Z, Nissan had some funky Vin numberings. Did they start counting over again with the 260Z?

    No, they did NOT have funky numberings in this market. It MUST be a 240Z as stated earlier as that VIN Sequence DOES NOT repeat in the 280Z Chassis. This is why I referenced The Black Dragon Auto site...

     

    Starting in 9/74 you could get an HLS30 (280Z, 1975) or an RLS30 (260Z, 1975 By FMVSS/DOT, but 1974 by EPA)

     

    The issues in build out cars after 6/76 weren't that bad...they didn't really have "260 Parts" they had "Early 280Z Parts"

     

    A 1975 280Z had a Center Console with a choke lever hole, and a blocking plate in it. The 1976's had a console with no choke lever hole at all. That's using a 260 part! Otherwise they just turned into 280Z Parts, as 280's and 260's were produced concurrently for those few months of 1974 for the US Market.

     

    Hell, small "75280Z" fuel tanks were produced to the introduction of the S130 (280ZX) as the JDM cars never used space savers nor 5mph bumpers. And for everyone else, they were getting RLS30's till the S130 was introduced, with the same 1972 / 240Z style bumpers right to the end!

  5. Slightly Different weatherstripping gasket is likely what you read. Coupe gasket will work on the 2+2 but 2+2 gasket wont work well on a coupe.

    To be specific, if you read the 1974 260Z 2+2 Supplement (Green Book) it diagrams the windshield opening pinch weld flange on the 2+2 is slightly thicker and therefore the gasket was moulded slightly wider to accommodate it.

  6. Ours wasn't that bad hitting the back of a Neon at 70... Then again a Neon isn't a concrete wall.

     

    Regarding this photo, though, I am sad to say "Been There, Wrecked That"!

     

    An immovable concrete curb 18" high isn't low enough to "ramp" you over a 48" tall solid concrete wall by a damsite.

     

    Add to that damage, tearing the front K-Member free. It wasn't pretty, and was the last time I swerved for small animals!

  7. My bet is the rightmost one is carbed.

     

    Our weber pulls looked like someone drew them with felt-tipped pen.

    The EFI ones were jaggy, on the same dyno, same smoothing settings, but just 15-40hp more depending on the rpm checked.

     

    Looked like hell, but pulled like crazy.

  8. I believe you are meaning you don't use the starter circuit.

    The chokes go in the bore to give a Bernoulli effect to siphon fuel from the float bowl.

     

    Blocking off the starter system, prevents over-rich situations from arising under some circumstances.

    Most guys simply safety wire the starter lever in the "off" position and call it done.

     

    The starting jet is still there, and it is possible through vibration and wear things can leak by...if its not there, it can't leak.

  9. "I took off the sprocket, turned it to #2 and put it back on but... Now the timing chain is rediculously tight, there is 0 slack whatsoever, and when the engine is running it's making a horrible whining noise."

     

    Maybe it's not as 'stretched' as you think?

     

    Uh, did you CHECK THE STRETCH INDICATOR????????? It's NOT checked with your finger, it's not checked with a wrench. 

     

    Do you have the  Factory Service Manual? If not, GET ONE and READ IT!

     

    If your timing chain stretch indicator doesn't indicate it's stretched, you are merely change valve timing for higher rpm power peak. It's compensating for the stretch by altering valve events so they occur in proper sequence relative to the crankshaft position, IT DOES NOT TIGHTEN  THE CHAIN! If you got a tight chain...my bet is your chain tensioner popped out and now you are grinding things up inside. Time to pull the front cover and find out!

  10. Yeah, those were before I had my "Every Time You Talk To Me, It Costs Me $2,000!" talk with Jeff and he started making real power. Actually right now, running on a STOCK L28ET BOTTOM END he's exceeded those numbers from the Rebello 3.0 Stroker that are posted on his website. The Rebello sits pickled in the corner of the garage until he hammers out his EFI Issues. He stopped posting a lot of that stuff, just too much B.S. Benchracer wanker background noise to deal with...

     

    We continued testing like before the internet existed.

     

    What do you plan to gain from viewing the dyno plot? "Is it a peaky engine?" No, the car makes 2-3 PSI at any point in the RPM range when going WOT, and Full Boost occurs like clockwork at 3200, the came comes on around 4,000 and pulls to over 7500... It accelerates with me in it as ballast (tire slippage) from 70-120 in around 4.5 seconds...then you shift to 4th.

     

    Extrude-Honed Stock L28ET Manifold, on Gerolamy Worked Head (head match ported to dowelled Cannon 45mm Triple Manifold), and Isky Cam.

     

    He GREATLY laments not listening to me and making a full-rpm 8psi of boost run to redline to see where the power peak of the engine really happened. The GT35R is OUT of air at this point, and unless he upgrades, or puts a forged bottom end back into it to make a full RPM run we can't extrapolate the actual potential of the setup. The one pull I did note at 8.39psi he was making 380 ft-lbs of torque at 4500 rpms. I got videos of these pulls someplace. And of the later pulls in the engine dyno test cell when we were doing oil temperature stability testing. But no time to post, nor any real inclination to do so... Just my memories of what we did while in active development. Life has intervened for both of us, and we are both on hiatus right now  from developing it fully.

  11. I got more than one for that price!

    Pick-Your=Part would stop bidding at $200, if you wanted it and had the cash, just start the bidding at $225, and usually that was it!

    I got my "Blue Turd" for well under that price because it was a theft recovery that was jumped and the steering column didn't work (crash damage) -- the rack holed the oil pan. I put a strut, rack, oil pan, and K-Member onto it, along with urethane suspension bushings, and have driven it over 110,000 miles since!

     

    You go to those auctions with a set price in your head, and you have to stick to it... I find it funny the new era of reality shows like "Storage Wars" has guys doing the same thing, and curiously saying the same things I used to say at the auctions about holidays when everybody and their uncles showed up to bid up prices...

     

    You want PAIN? 

     

    At the SAME auction I stopped bidding at $400 because that was  my limit on the following vehicles:

     

    1963 Chevy II Station Wagon with inline six, three speed column shift, radio delete, desert paint, COMPLETE save missing the trim bezels around the headlights. I saw it repainted white with rally wheels. It was bid to $425 by Juan from 'Memory Lane' the classic car junkyard. Impounded for Parked on Street 72 Hours. I still lament not going to $800 on that car...but I was there for a pickup truck and that damn thing just showed up....I HAD to try!

     

    1965 Corvair Corsa 140 Convertible with a seized engine. COMPLETE and weathered... Went for $425 to Juan from Memory Lane. Impounded for Parked on Street 72 hours.

     

    1973 Datsun Pickup, with Cap, and a NEW ATK REBUILT L18 in it... Went for $425 to someone who wanted it more than me. Impounded for Parked on Street 72 hours.

     

    1972 Datsun 510, with Roll Cage, HRE 15" Wheels, Sparco Seats, 13B Conversion with 48IDA Weber... Went for $1525 to Luis who worked at the Impound Yard, who was bidding against me which I didn't know and yelled at him "LUIS DAMNIT WHY DIDN'T YOU TELL ME YOU WANTED IT AND I WOULD HAVE STOPPED BIDDING EARLIER YOU DUMB SH*T!" Impounded for STREET RACING, NO LICENSE, NO INSURANCE (HAD registration!!!)

     

    I ended up the day walking out of there with a $100 1980 280ZX 2+2 which RAN BEAUTIFULLY but looked like crap. It's engine had all the auxiliaries replaced new starter, new water pump, new distributor, new sensors and AFM...guy couldn't get Smog (buttsplice hell on the harness up front!!!) The Engine and Transmission went into my 76 Fairlady and dynoed at 147 to the rear wheels with stock 176,000 mile JECS EFI on it. The Six Spoke Wheels went on that car as well... AND with a $325 1980 Chevy Luv Automatic, which I used in the yard for two years cleaning up. I put a head gasket on it with a 0.003" shim on a block channeling area. After I was done with it, I sold it to a guy from San Berdoo for $400 on condition that I KEPT the brand new battery in it. There was a 1980 Coupe that the impound yard BEGGED me to take for another $100 as it was a 'no bid' and they were stuck storing it another week....I didn't need it! Not a ZX!

     

    The next week, I bought a 1966 Toyota Corona with Automatic and 3RC engine for $125. VERY complete car, cost me more to register it legally than it did to buy it. After years of sitting in my back yard, and getting visions of a VG30ET in there as a Mini-Funnycar.... I donated it to the Toyota Museum. When you go see the Off-Blue Corona in their collection, or out on display as coming from their Heritage Collection, you know who gave it to them! Yes, the car was that complete. They restored it, of course...but what I got for $125 (like my Blue Turd) was amazing.

     

    You see gents and ladies... the reason I have a travel job is to keep me from those damned auto auctions. Like zex, when a Datsun came in the yard I got the call. In some cases, I didn't even have to show, Luis would bid for me and they would take it on the house account and I could give them the money once I knew it was a done deal (like when I had to be at work on Friday...damn it!)

     

    Now in LA at least the OPG's are online, and you can see what's up for auction ahead of time. Saves driving an hour to see what shows up.

     

    Oh, the things that yard had.... You think the PORSCHE was bad? How about it being 1996 and a 1990 Z32 showing up with the heads torn apart, and a full set of HKS Racing Cams in the deck, impounded for Parked on the Street 72 Hours. That car was hooked and bailed FIVE TIMES by the owner (it was cheaper than paying impound fees, so yes, that means less than $1000!) Finally someone bought it and did something with it.

     

    1973 Big Block Corvette with 4 Speed.... $2,225.... Beat, but all there...

     

    I watched a Metallic Blue 1974 Camaro Berlinetta in PRISTINE condition (the car had the keys and the doors were locked so the interior did not have The Big Lebowski Vagrants sleeping in it and using it as a toilet) minus engine and trans go for FIVE DOLLARS! Nobody was bidding on it, and somebody jokingly said "$5" --- Wally, the guy running the Auction said "$5? $5? $5 Going once (laughter), going twice....(More laughter) SOLD for $5!" A second guy squawked "WHAT?" as Wally said "$5 Miniumum Bid, man bid $5, nobody else bid, so he get it for $5!" The guy says "Well, HELL I'll give you $25 for it then! I didn't think you would sell it for $5!" The guy that made the bid was "Waitaminit, I was JOKING! I don't want this!" Wally says "Well, you bid, you won, it's yours!" The two made a deal outside the yard because the one guy was REALLY regretting being a smartass! Car looked like someone was going through an engine change. All the accessories were carefully removed and wired to the firewall or fenderwells and bagged really nicely. Car was impounded for Parked on the Street 72 Hours. Beautiful car, and about a crate motor and tranny away from being a VERY nice ride indeed!

     

    I had to pass on an EARLY Falcon Ranchero (Red with White Button-Tuck Interior) that someone bought there to take out the Hybrid Z Swap of an L28 and Five Speed for his 73 Z Car! GIVEN to me...but had to pass as I didn't have a place to store it at the time, until I had the time to put any number of engine/5speeds I had in storage. Beautiful car impounded for No License, No Registration, No Insurance. The guy got that car for $175... I would really like to have that car, the conversion was primo using mount converters so that it looked stock. That would have been SUCH a bitchen' ride!

     

    Sometimes things like numbers get burned into your brain. I'm lucky I didn't have more money or I would have branched out beyond Z's for sure!

  12. "Are you sure it's a 240Z? "

     

    the Black Dragon Auto VIN Listing shows good year-breaks.

     

    I would like to know how it's not since HLS30-156466 is a 73 240Z that I have owned since 1988, and which I bought from the second owner!

     

    The "odd throwbacks" happened in the JDM where classification wasn't such a sticky thing like it is here in the USA. I have seen VIN's run non-consecutively there, with S30-110661 being a 240-Style Assembled vehicle, whereas S30-108XXX was a Later 260/280 style body!

     

    That doesn't happen in the USA, the VIN's were reported on Import Documentation to the Feds, and classified pretty anally....if not for FMVSS/DOT compliance, for EPA Compliance.

     

    Anybody seen a US-Spec 1975 260Z? They were out there, and listed in the sales literature of the day... one of those quirks of the EPA/DOT Disconnect in the early emissions years.

  13. Yes, that was what Yetterben said and it makes perfect sense that the Manga was first. There was a lot of talk, but nobody with access ever bucked up anything to back up the conjecture. All I ever said was what I saw in person, nothing more....just invited those making alternate claims to show us all what it was. Sideways was the first guy that didn't get all pissy and butthurt and shared what he had at his disposal.

     

    I'm sure the Manga has a sketch of the engine somewhere.

  14. Restricted is all relative. The Z32 VG30DETT made 750HP through twin 26mm restrictors on the turbo inlets, and 1100 without them. But the drivers (Millen namely) said the better torque of the "restricted" engine made the car FAR more driveable. In 1100 HP trim, it was likely "Bonneville Only"!

     

    Restricted doesn't necessarily mean bad...

     

    The documentation on how they get what the get is well documented on the NASCAR Fan / Tech Sites, and the mechanics are lightly touched upon in the "Small Port Heads" thread here...

  15. The cam remains relatively stationary. You have the bright link lined up with 1, currently. You slip the chain off and line up the bright link with 2 or 3, then move the cam SLIGHTLY to line up with the new hole. We're talking maybe 5degrees of movement if that.

     

    The only thing that moves is the cam sprocket inside the chain. Sometimes you can slip the sprocket back onto the cam and it slips into the new hole without turning the cam whatsoever (but that slack cha in is now tight....

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