RS Speed

You are a sick man and I mean that in the most positive/respectful way

hmmmm i have fenders, hood and rear panel already in carbon.... this is tempting

Looks great, it's truly a work of art.

I have mine fitted but I dont have any pics. I had a hard time getting it in but with some wiggling around I got it in. Last time I was under the car though I noticed it had cracked the speed sensor (mechanical) at the base but my gauge still functions so Im not going to worry about it yet. I had a trans mount bolt strip at the time though so it could have been the reason why it ended up cracking but it is a pretty tight fit regardless. Im not using mckinney but it looks like the pics above

I use the same one but I got it from PRC direct. I believe it came out cheaper and you can get it with a built in oil cooler if you like.

Honestly its seems like a lot of work for an old dated motor... why not stuff a subaru flat 4 in the rear like they do on dune buggies if you want the rear engine platform with a way newer powerplant thats watercooled. You are going to be doing massive fabrication so I would make it worth while.

If memory serves me correctly they are mounting brackets that we got for flexalite fans a couple years back. Had they laying around so I used them for my rad and intercooler.

1975 and older does not require Biannual smog or smog upon new ownership. You technically CANT do a motor swap in any car without it being approved by carb. This includes smoging the car but almost nobody is going to go through that trouble regardless of what kind of motor you are stuffing in. Luckily these older cars usually fly under the radar as long as you're flying under the radar. But the RB motor cant ever be made legal since its never been imported as a USDM motor even if you wanted to get it carb approved.

1975 and under you dont have to smog.

Every car seems to have a slightly different list, goes to show were the DIY type that use whatever we can get our hands on that works hahaha.

wow that was a nice read, I just went through all 6 pages. I think you have done an amazing job on your car and I love the attention to detail. Looks beautiful under the hood and it runs like a champ too.

Fuel system should be good for around 450whp though I don't plan on making more than 400 to the wheels. Next stage is a gt3076r, alcohol injection, R888's, 4 point cage and wilwood brakes. I've fallen in love with the racetrack and its making me want to dump more parts into the car. I originally wanted a street/weekend car but I keep wanting to get more trackability out of it lol. I think with the next set of mods I should be happy with the street and track performace.

Doesn't really matter where you put it, most people end up putting it whereever it fits best in their engine bay, also having short vacuum line helps so keep that in mind. Since you are ditching the mafs and going to a map based system recirculating will have no benefits for you. Save yourself the plumbing and clutter on your intake pipe and run a open atmosphere bov... I like the new tial ones

Ya I heard about the oil pan situation, its really a bummer, luckily I managed to get one of the last ones stateside!! The sr20 is a fine motor, I had one in my s14 for almost 4 years and I had fun pulling 911s and vettes. I was considering doing the sr20 motor again in the z but Ive had a KA turbo and Sr20 so I figured it was time to try out the RB series since I found my motorset minus ecu and harness for a grand lol.

I thought it was funny how many different car parts I used to make this car. I keep updating this as it I remember more, im up to 16 cars, hahaha. My list: 240z - lots of stuff 280z - mustache bar, rear lower link skyline - motor Q45 - throttle body 300zx z32 - mafs, clutch, ecu 300zx z31 - rear end 240sx s13 - coolant sensor 240sx s14 - rpm gauge mechanism Quest - alternator nissan pickup - speed sensor datsun 311 - starter Subaru - injectors Buick - coil pack mr2 - shocks toyota pickup - brakes Chevy - radiator

Awesome man!! funny thing is I didn't have one picture of my car from the show, thanks!

no dyno but I would put it at ~300whp give or take 10 at 14psi. I am running a z32 ecu with a nistune board repinned for a rb25 with a z32 mafs and 525cc injectors. The tune is a concauction I made using bits of z32 and r33 data with my own fuel and timing maps. She runs almost perfect but I need to work on the cold start a bit, shes not a morning person lol.

Bored at work, couple of updated pics from the crest. Car is a blast to drive at 14 psi... the r34 rb25det neo turbo spools and feels very different from the r33 rb25 turbo, way laggier but much better top end fwiw. Looking for a GT30r if anyone has one

Dont forget your factory rear end will probably have to change(unless you have a r200 already), you need to convert to efi so that gonna cost you some money(pump, filters, lines, modify tank/cell/surge tank etc.). Brake upgrade would be nice for the added power and a new clutch unless you get lucky on your front clip then there is gauges and more I cant remember lol.... 5k is doable but you are going to be pinching pennies. I find that random stuff pop up all the time and you end up dumping money which was unacounted for, good luck though p.s. radiator is a PRC rad... costs 250 for the rad and 150 for the oil cooler lines, fittings and adapter which i pieced from summit and ebay.... 5k is not happening buddy lol another p.s. dont know the condition of your car or current setup but look into suspsenion too if that's not done, although its not part of an RB swap I would say a stock 240z with an RB motor is almost dangerous so you have to account for these things during the swap.

Cool, I was hoping there would be hybridz folks there, lol. Thank for the comments guys, the coilovers are the cozmo racing springs and sleeves with illuminas and sectioned struts.

UPDATE Yesterday was hectic didn't get to do an update. I got the rad installed and finally ran the car. I love how the rad came out, has the oil cooler built into the side tank which is pretty cool. Everything went really smooth with the exception of the TPS sensor. I think the pos and neg need to be reversed to correct the signal, im going to take care of that today and maybe get some footage of the car. Other than that it feels like a million bucks. I feel like I bought a new car again, I must say bushings make a HUGE difference on a 40 year old car. Here are some more pics, I am waiting on my front spacers to arrive so dont mind the front offset lol. Pics dont do it justice though, it looks like the devil on the road, super mean look hahah.

Nice looking pan!!! Glad I got my rear sump when I did or else I would fire up the old miller and see what we could come up lol.

Thanks for the comments guys I appreciate the postive feedback, makes the whole project worth while. Canadianz: You are correct I am using a Z32 ecu. I just repinned the harness for the few changes they have and its working awesome so far and I get to keep vtc. Nice thing is that I built my buddies S14 along with my car so they are sister cars as far as motor and fuel management go. His car was done sooner than mine so I went ahead and tuned his car and copied the maps over to my ecu. This way I should be 95% done with the tune on startup so I'm pretty much ready to drive I installed new seats today and got all the loose ends taken care of, I hope the radiator just comes in tomorrow or I'm blowing up the UPS center by my house. On a side note I engaged the clutch for the first time with the motor running for like 3 seconds and man it felt good.

Im going to get it running tomorrow hopefully so ill take some vid of the car running. I bought the car a year ago and redid the interior and minor stuff to make it driveable. In december I tore it down and pulled the L series out. So this stage of the project has been going on for a little over 3 months.

Its an amazingly good knock off from the greddy. Ive seen some dirty looking ones in the past but I ran across this one locally while shopping for some parts and though it was a real greddy. Asked the guy and he said it was imported and he wanted $150 for it. I dont know if I got lucky or what but this thing was smooth inside and out with no excess aluminum dust that I have seen from knock off manifolds.