trackzpeed

Z28 sits in my driveway now... It's way nicer than I expected, so much so I feel bad tearing it down to put in the Z. It sounds really nasty with long tubes and straight pipes into muffler..... Kinda sounds that make small children cry. I can't wait to get this thing in my Z with over 1400+\- less weight.

Thanks for the wiring link. Sweet stuff

Wow those look really clean..... My gut says dirty dingo means stock manifolds.... I'm willing to bet JTR headers will work. I'd be interested to see if cx would sell their headers without the kit.....

The bolt in option is what peaked my interest... that's why I put it on the list. Ryan, I'm starting to really get into the CX racing camp the more I research. Let us know how this is going. Picked up my donor car yesterday... kinda feel bad to part it out it's really sweet and previously upgraded itself. Most daunting task in all this will be wiring but wiring specialties seems to have a complete system available for less than $700.... Not sure I can pull off the DIY fab of Camaro harness? Anyway, good to see swap guys contributing to the thread. Still hoping this makes for a great factual sticky on the swaps that are out there.

Cool Richard.... Are you the same Richard Oben from Factory five cars....? I had a MKI FFR roadster with a 347 stroker that was a blast but like all good gear heads I sold it to pay down some bills and start another project.... My current Z, longing for the LS1.

Thanks Mike great information. Are dingo mounts both weld and bolt in??? I was under the impression that they were primarily bolt in from their web site. Thanks again.

There complete kit looks quite impressive with the full exhaust.... I believe it can be done cheaper but they appear to have a nice tight little product. I pick my complete 98 ls1 T56 Z28 up on Wednesday. My goal is to scavenge every part possible needed and sell off what's left. Waiting to see what I can recoup before I decide on which kit and what stage. I'm too late to the game to swap now as my local autoX season will start soon and I want to defend my current str class championship but when the season is over I hope to have all parts collected for a short swap time. I will watch your build closely. Thanks.

Never mind. I found it

Hey Ryan. You mentioned cx has headers for their kit but I haven't seen them on their site...... Where did you find that?

Nice this will help confirm and/or deny suspicions about the kit. Thanks. Keep us posted

Thanks for the input. Good luck with the build.. Happy with the jci product overall?

Point taken and thanks. Still hoping we can compile as list of what has and has not worked with various kits knowing full well that everything will need some measure of tweaking.

Thanks for the input. Any dirty dingo, hawks,cx users out there want to chime in?

Looking for you to be a key source in my build RBZ. You know your stuff from reading many of your posts and comments. Thanks

A quote from str8pipes in the closed hawks thread.... "Got my engine mounts from Hawk's. Much beefier in person. I mocked them up on the engine as shown in the pics. JTR headers clear by a mile, FYI. Hopefully the steering / JTR header combo makes it ok. Parts are really nice overall." To bad we never got the outcomes of this install.

Great thanks for the input.....

Ok.... Thanks for the input and comments. I know the jci kit works and is proven but some have had legit complaints so I want to know if they are warranted. I can and do turn my own wrenches so I am prepared for the inevitable massaging to make it all work. Yes building my own mounts is cheaper but as I said no point in reinventing the wheel. The main point of my OP was to dismiss the myths of each kit.... Do other headers work with hawks? Does steering shaft need to be modified for dirty dingo? Any real info on CX? Is there something out there that has been done better and still yet to be found (hoke?). Just looking for answers to make my best purchase, with the best outcomes...... I still think this would make a killer sticky!

I contacted the camaro owner and we are back on. Pick her up Tuesday

He is still prototyping.... Anybody have thoughts on my OP? Good solid accurate data could make a needed sticky IMO.

Didn't know Hoke was doing LS1 stuff... I thought he was strictly VQ transplants. Thank you I will check it out.

Ok I've done the research and it is not clear!!!! I just passed on a 98 LS1 T56 Camaro because I can't get the Facts straight on LS1 to 240 mounts. I've owned /raced 5 240's in the past and want to jump into an LS1 swap. Here is what the search has turned up so far..... Please contribute factual knowledge not "well I heard that.... opinion" JCI- a lot out there seems to work well but is a bugger to install and I've run across a few complaints of poor fit and crappy hardware. works with steering shaft and headers... read a few posts of busted motor mounts. Dirty dingo- Easier to install and works with headers but requires modification of steering rack..... or not, I found a least two posts that indicate the rack worked just fine? Have not seen a completed build... CX racing- have not seen a completed build and I have no reference for headers or steering rack... designed in the US but manufactured in China??? so quality issues? Trans mount will most likely "not fit in 240 tunnel" Hawks third gen- "best mounts......" plenty of clearance but only work with "Hawks long tube headers".... or not, I ran across a post here on hybrid that states "JTR/Sanderson headers fit just fine with plenty of clearance.... what the hell! DIY- Why re-invent the wheel when the at least one of the above will work.... So back to my topic post, I would love to have some input on what really works! Knowledge is power and opinions are like butt holes... everybody's got one. So if you don't know what your talking about first hand, don't add to the confusion. My car is a rust free (at least by Datsun standards lol) 72 240Z..... Thanks. Jim "trackzpeed"

Wow it's been along time since I checked on this post. Seats are holding up great. If i remember correctly I had to drill out the seat mounts a bit wider over stock and I moved them inboard far enough to allow the back to recline without the shoulder bolster hitting the b pillar but not so far as to screw up the alignment of driver to wheel and pedals. Just measured 3'times and drilled once. My harness is a 3point mounted in the stock locations. For track days and autoX they hold me in very tight for great seat of the pants input and car control. If you are taller than 6-1 they need to be dropped with a helmet.... I'm right at the limit to be honest and if I ever shunt off track with big compression the rebound may be a tad to heavy for my 48 year old neck Just food for thought

Well I got her to run. I don't know why but the fuel line from tank to filter ran dry and the mechanical pump could not prime it. I ran some extra fuel line from a gas can to the pump and she fired right up..... After it ran for a bit the fuel overflow,return pipe primed the fuel rails and it worked just fine when hooked back up. Never had this happen before. Really weird. Thanks for the reply. Jim

Started to get a loss of fuel stall at high rpm with full throttle 3 weeks ago and assumed mechanical pump was going bad. I've been out of country for 2 weeks so when I returned I replace the fuel pump and get no fire at all. There is at least 3 gal in the tank and I have cleared all the lines but when I crank it over there's no fuel flowing into the filter and when I pulled the fuel line from the carb and crank I get no fuel as well. Grabbed the old pump and she work just fine by hand pump as well??? Why can't I pull fuel from the tank? Is it possible the cam lobe to actuate the pump lever is screwed up? Wouldn't that have been more catastrophic? I'm at a total loss. I could run the electric pump with mechanical omit but I'm not convinced that's the right choice until I know why I can't pull or push fuel. Any thoughts?

best part is that the paint is all primer..... when I'm ready to lay down the good stuff I just have to wet sand...