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TimO last won the day on March 1 2018

TimO had the most liked content!

About TimO

  • Birthday 04/02/1948

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    Nevada City
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    Original Owner 72 240z.

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  1. This is part of an estate sale. Two - Garrett GT2876R Ball Bearing Turbos. Will separate. Originally on a twin turbo RB26. $400 each plus shipping. New $1029 each. Very good shape. No shaft play. GT25/40R 280-480hp capability. T25 Flanged Internally Wastegated with built in swing valve. - Dual Stainless Steel Ball Bearings Oil & Water lube/cooled CHRA Specs -Dual Ball Bearing -Oil and water-cooled bearing housing -M14x1.5 water ports Compressor Specs -0.70 A/R compressor housing 4" inlet 2.5" outlet -48-trim compressor wheel 2.08/2.99 52.8mm inducer Turbine Specs -Available in 0.64 A/R and 0.86 A/R turbine housings with T25 inlet internally wastegated -53.9mm 76-trim GT28 Inconel turbine wheel Part Number: 705330-2 - Complete turbocharger with 0.86 A/R turbine housing Dual Ball Bearing GT25/40-R Turbo assembly with specified ar. T25 style inlet flange with 5 bolt style exit. Large 60- 1 style compressor housing with 4.00" inlet and 2.50" outlet. Very Good response turbo for 4 Cyl applications. This turbo has a flow capacity of about 450HP.
  2. This is part of an estate sale. SPEC SN43A Flywheel. Asking $125 plus shipping. $456 new! Balanced. CNC machined. Features replaceable steel friction plate. Located in Northern California. Very good condition.
  3. Check out this article on the Driven Racing Oil website re zink in oil. http://admin.compperformance.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/proper-use-zdp-engine-oils/
  4. It is with much sadness to announce that my very close friend of over 20 years and moderator on HybridZ, Joel Soileau, passed away unexpectedly in his sleep yesterday. He will be sorely missed as a friend to many of us as well as a loyal and dedicated contributor to HybridZ. Rest In Peace my good buddy. http://forums.hybridz.org/profile/181-rb26powered74zcar/
  5. Check out ClassicCarSeats.com Expensive but great quality. http://www.classiccarseats.com/avus-seats.php
  6. 300 hp on a 2400lb Z is awesome. But as Rossman said, power is addictive. 300 hp will only satisfy for a year or so then it feels tame. Next thing you know you want 400+ hp. Ask me how I know! On an L series engine the three main components that people tend to spend more money redoing a second or third time is converting to forged pistons, head/cam, and the heart of the turbo motor...the turbo. If you want 300 hp build for 400. Spend the money once!
  7. My 2 cents…. When selecting a turbo, as mentioned above definitely get one with a water cooled center section. If you can afford it, also get one that has ball bearings rather than a sleeve bearing. They last longer and you typically get the latest technology sinc turbo manufactures are putting most of their r&d into ball bearing turbo’s. If you already know this then please disregard my comments. Making horsepower with a turbo is not a function of psi. Psi is essentially a measure of resistance. It’s all about volume of air flow. Not pressure. For example, turbo A might flow lets say 35 lb/min at 17 psi while turbo B might flow 50 lb/min at the same psi and at the same efficiency island. The difference in these turbo examples are typically their size and technology. Flow maps will show you the cfm at various psi for various efficiency levels. Try to match your turbo selection to the cfm (at a streetable psi) required to make your hp target. Then there’s lag to consider. As has been stated above the turbine housing size will affect lag. The smaller the a/r the quicker the spool up but at the same time a small a/r can restrict high rpm performance because of exhaust pressure. I’ve found that a small a/r turbine housing is difficult to drive because it has so much bottom end at the expense of the top end. It’s a matter of preference. I went from a T3 .63 a/r to a T4 .82 a/r. I didn’t notice much of a change in the bottom end but I did notice quite an improvement in the midrange and top end. Again it’s a matter of preference and driving style. Also take into consideration the cfm flow of your head/cam. The cfm of your head and cam (that’s a whole other discussion) will give you a ball park of the max cfm your engine can move which in turn gives you an idea of the turbo cfm your engine can handle. Too big of a turbo and you’re adding more flow than your engine can handle thus creating flow resistance (unequal pressure before and after the turbine housing) while typically introducing increased turbo lag. Too little and you’re leaving hp on the table. Simply, it’s about the amount of cfm required to meet your hp goal, and whether or not your head/cam can flow those cfm numbers. Then select a turbo that makes that amount of cfm, at a streetable psi, at the sweet spot or close to the sweet spot of the turbo’s flow map. And lastly don’t forget to port your turbo exhaust manifold especially where runners 1-2-3-4 come together just before the exhaust flange. The trick is to get everything to work together in balance. Good luck.
  8. Good luck on the dyno. You should have some really good numbers!!! Can't wait to see your results.
  9. Exhaust manifold. Hard to find on their website. Go to their prices page and you will see it under Manifold Porting. http://www.lonewolfperformance.com/index.htm
  10. As NewZed said. Work from above. Use a magnet on a sliding extension rod (Harbor Freight and others-cheap) to hold the nut to get the nut started then use a socket from above to hold the nut as you tighten from below. May require an extra set of hands to either hold the nut from above or the bolt from below. Or...more of a permanent fix - assuming you can clean the nut to metal mating surface JB Weld the nut in place from above. Hold the nut with the magnet making sure you don't get any JB Weld on the threads. Leave the magnet attached until the JB Weld dries then bolt from below. JB Weld may or may not permanently hold the nut but either way you will be able to bolt up the trans mount.
  11. John, These guys http://www.lonewolfp....com/prices.htm also have a service they don't show on their website where they cut the manifold in half, port it, and weld it back together which I understand results in a much better flow than the "standard" porting.
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