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TimO

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TimO last won the day on March 1 2018

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About TimO

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    TimO ~ orig. owner 72z
  • Birthday 04/02/1948

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  • Website URL
    http://s1322.photobucket.com/user/Tim72z/library/240z%20progress%20pictures?sort=3&page=1

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  • Location
    Nevada City
  • Interests
    Original Owner 72 240z.

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  1. This is part of an estate sale. Two - Garrett GT2876R Ball Bearing Turbos. Will separate. Originally on a twin turbo RB26. $400 each plus shipping. New $1029 each. Very good shape. No shaft play. GT25/40R 280-480hp capability. T25 Flanged Internally Wastegated with built in swing valve. - Dual Stainless Steel Ball Bearings Oil & Water lube/cooled CHRA Specs -Dual Ball Bearing -Oil and water-cooled bearing housing -M14x1.5 water ports Compressor Specs -0.70 A/R compressor housing 4" inlet 2.5" outlet
  2. This is part of an estate sale. SPEC SN43A Flywheel. Asking $125 plus shipping. $456 new! Balanced. CNC machined. Features replaceable steel friction plate. Located in Northern California. Very good condition.
  3. Check out this article on the Driven Racing Oil website re zink in oil. http://admin.compperformance.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/proper-use-zdp-engine-oils/
  4. It is with much sadness to announce that my very close friend of over 20 years and moderator on HybridZ, Joel Soileau, passed away unexpectedly in his sleep yesterday. He will be sorely missed as a friend to many of us as well as a loyal and dedicated contributor to HybridZ. Rest In Peace my good buddy. http://forums.hybridz.org/profile/181-rb26powered74zcar/
  5. Check out ClassicCarSeats.com Expensive but great quality. http://www.classiccarseats.com/avus-seats.php
  6. 300 hp on a 2400lb Z is awesome. But as Rossman said, power is addictive. 300 hp will only satisfy for a year or so then it feels tame. Next thing you know you want 400+ hp. Ask me how I know! On an L series engine the three main components that people tend to spend more money redoing a second or third time is converting to forged pistons, head/cam, and the heart of the turbo motor...the turbo. If you want 300 hp build for 400. Spend the money once!
  7. My 2 cents…. When selecting a turbo, as mentioned above definitely get one with a water cooled center section. If you can afford it, also get one that has ball bearings rather than a sleeve bearing. They last longer and you typically get the latest technology sinc turbo manufactures are putting most of their r&d into ball bearing turbo’s. If you already know this then please disregard my comments. Making horsepower with a turbo is not a function of psi. Psi is essentially a measure of resistance. It’s all about volume of air flow. Not pressure. For example, turbo A might flow le
  8. Good luck on the dyno. You should have some really good numbers!!! Can't wait to see your results.
  9. Exhaust manifold. Hard to find on their website. Go to their prices page and you will see it under Manifold Porting. http://www.lonewolfperformance.com/index.htm
  10. As NewZed said. Work from above. Use a magnet on a sliding extension rod (Harbor Freight and others-cheap) to hold the nut to get the nut started then use a socket from above to hold the nut as you tighten from below. May require an extra set of hands to either hold the nut from above or the bolt from below. Or...more of a permanent fix - assuming you can clean the nut to metal mating surface JB Weld the nut in place from above. Hold the nut with the magnet making sure you don't get any JB Weld on the threads. Leave the magnet attached until the JB Weld dries then bolt from below. JB Weld may
  11. John, These guys http://www.lonewolfp....com/prices.htm also have a service they don't show on their website where they cut the manifold in half, port it, and weld it back together which I understand results in a much better flow than the "standard" porting.
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