jgkurz

Wagz, I think I got it figured out. The 20mm x 1.5 pitch die I bought is the correct one for the stub axles. For some reason it visually looked way off. I bought a thread gauge and it's definitely 1.5. Thanks for the offer. By chance, are you a member of NorthwestZ?

Does anyone know where I could order this die? My local hardware store has a 20mm with a 1.5 pitch but it's a course thread so it must not be a 1.5mm pitch. I've completely destroyed the first 1/4 inch of the threads... Thanks

mas28O, great numbers! What's even more impressive is your torque is relatively flat throughout the RPM range. My turbo L6 will never have a graph that looks that good. By the way, have you ever put your car on a DynoJet chassis dyno? I've also had may car dynoed on a Mustang dyno and was told they read lower than a DynoJet. I know it really doesn't matter, but it'd be nice to know how they compare. Regards,

Thank you all for the responses. I'm hoping the CV shaft upgrade is worth the trouble.

Hi all, I know this has been discussed in probably 50 threads already, but I'd like to get a consensus on the easiest way to remove the stub axle nuts. In all the posts I've read it seems there are two options. 1) Grind off the peened part of the nut then remove. 2) Bend the peen back out then air wrench the nut out probably damaging the threads. Is there an easier way that I've missed? Thanks.

jack46, It's been a while since I've been involved with the SBC crowd, but your cam doesn't seem that small. I really don't know what your power goals are, but that cam seems large enough to flow 400hp. A 1.7 60ft time should yield a high 11 sec 1/4 mile given that you have the necessary power/weight ratio. Your topend problem probably is related to your cylinder heads,intake or exhaust rather than your camshaft. Just my .02C.

Here's the car that went 226mph at Bonneville with a turbo L28. He blew a tire on the return run so the record went to Japanese team running a 300ZXTT at 222mph. The record still stands today. He's offered to loan me the car to take back to Bonneville but I really can't afford two Z projects at the same time. If I ever get to a stopping point on my 77 I'm might give it a try.

I'd be interested in the rear control arms. Especially if they bolt up to all the stock locations. Definatley need pics. Are the 240z, 260z and 280z arms all the same?

No thanks, I wouldn't want you to give up the transmission from your daily driver... By the way, nice contribution with your second post.

Is the the wastegate you are running? This is mine. It's a Turbonetics unit that I adapted the original bracket to.

Z-Gad, Are you serious???? You buried your speedo? Dude...you have some serious cahonies! Although my engine is probably capable of similar speeds, my HR rated tires would fly off the wheel at 130mph and my front end would start aiming skyward at about 150mph. What tires do you run?

240hoke, I too have a dual port wastegate that had the same symptoms. I use a Blitz TypeR boost controller and the boost seemed to rise extremely slow. I switched back to the single port wastegate and it worked fine. In theory the dual port unit is suppose to give you better boost response. I'd like to switch back if I could ever figure out what was causing the problem.

If I was going to do a Ford V8 in a Z it'd be a 351 Windsor stroked to 426ci with canted valve aluminum heads. These engines make enough power to be give any Chevy a run for their money. They are lighter than an LT1 and cost less than an LS1. I'm not sure what tranny I'd use though?

Mark, Sorry to here about your trouble. Running low 12's and the MPH you've been running tells me your 60ft time must be 1.8 or better. True? Are you running the Modern Motorsports 280ZXT CV adapters? I'm a little worried because I'm going to be running a similar ET and don't want to break a CV. They now have Z31 CV adapters that might be stronger. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=56&PHPSESSID=e6f2d7059fbc3312c347c60856c6366a

Brad-ManQ45, Did you build this site? What a great job! I agree that the E50 wheel is a good fit for a Z. Thanks for sharing.

Brad-ManQ45, Did you build this site? What a great job! I agree that the E50 wheel is a good fit for a Z. Thanks for sharing.

Hi Brad, I was going to show your car to a buddy of mine that wants to do a similar conversion. Can you repost the pics from your show? If I remember right they looked pretty sweet. Thanks

Phantom, I looked at the Kumho Ecsta V700's as well. We seem to be battling the same problems....

I did a fair amount of research and went with the Electromotive Tec3. Many of the BIG HP L28 cars here at HybridZ use an Electromotive Tec2. The Tec3 is easier to use and fit's into a Z without much headache. It's more expensive than the Haltec, SDS, Wolf3D, Megasquirt or ???, but so far I am very happy. The Motec is hands down the best standalone that money can buy, but it's not necessarily user friendly and it's much more expensive.

I did a fair amount of research and went with the Electromotive Tec3. Many of the BIG HP L28 cars here at HybridZ use an Electromotive Tec2. The Tec3 is easier to use and fit's into a Z without much headache. It's more expensive than the Haltec, SD, Wolf3D, Megasquirt or ???, but so far I am very happy. The Motec is hands down the best standalone that money can buy, but it's not necessarily user friendly and it's much more expensive.

Phantom, When I ran the 12.9 @ 110 my car dyno'd at 307 RWHP and 345 RWTQ at 13psi boost. This was on a more conservative Mustang chassis dyno. DynoJet's seems to show more HP for some reason. Over the winter I've added a sintered iron clutch (old one was slipping), 550cc injectors, larger turbocharger, CV shafts, and ported my exhaust manifold and wastegate. At 20+ psi it should make much more HP hence a better ET this season. My goal is 400RWHP and around 400RWTQ on the more common DynoJet dyno. With better tires I'd like my ET to be about 12.2 - 12.5 @ 115mph. Maybe 11.99 with drag radials. Right now my 60ft time is 2.0 on 205/60-15 tires. I need to get it down to the 1.8's for low 12's and 1.7's for 11's. If I had a 240 I think the 11's could be attainable but with the "FAT" 280 I doubt it will happen. Either way I love my heavy 280!

Ok. You all have me worried about my springs now. I cut a coil and a half off with a cutting wheel which brought my car down about 3/4". The only difference is I cut my springs so the end or tail was in the same position as the original springs. They seat and stay nicely in the original location. I didn't heat the ends or anything like that. Am I driving a death trap?

My car weighs 2950lbs with a 1/4 take of gas and me in it. With 240 bumbers and lighter wheels I hope to get it down to 28xxlbs. I'm just trying to keep up with Rick's 12.0 sec 1/4 mile time. He doesn't even have the 3.1 in yet. I think I better get slicks and remove my interior. NOT!

Tim, All the thermostats and sandwich adapters I've seen have 1/2 fittings which is equivalant to -8. If this was your situation as well did you just get 1/2 to - 10 adapters for all the connections? Thanks!

Hi folks, I'm in the process of picking out an oil cooler for my Z and need some advice. I had decided on a Setrab cooler with -8 lines and a 180 degree oil thermostat. I have a trusted friend that recommended - 10 lines instead of -8. I thought - 8 would be plenty, but he believes they will cause too much pressure loss. What are you all running? Thanks