jgkurz

Here are some Isky cam cards for reference. The first is my cam and the others are from folks I've run across over the years. Notice the cam timing on my cam vs the other 7181 is different. Very odd. Maybe 7181 is for drilled cams and 7151 is for external oiled cams. L490 grind number also doesn't seem to be a consistent grind either if you look at the catalog and other cam cards. My Isky 7181 Another Isky 7181 Isky 7151

Tony, I think there is at least a couple Isky L6 turbo cams. I'll see if I can back my claim up with some data. I run an Isky and have been very happy. Stay tuned...

Great video of folks riding in a GT3..

That's what I was alluding to in my above post. I personally wouldn't want to sacrifice tire burning torque for a lesser but flat torque curve unless I did not have to make a sacrifice. I participated in a track day a while back and set the boost on "kill". The car was a handful and had huge peaky power on boost. I blew a boost pipe off during one of my sessions and the car suddenly had a flat torque curve. Not nearly as exciting. I've tried to build a fun and fast car but there are always sacrifices when asking so much from our little Datsuns.

Really enjoyed your video and the captions. In a way it puts the viewer in the driver seat. The GT3 had a better power to weight but it looked like you were out braking him. Are your brake upgrades superior to the GT3? BTW, your car is amazing quiet for the power level.

Interesting topic. My turbo L28 with a Weber 60mm TB also has a hair trigger boost response. I liken it to a two-stroke or a Porsche 930. Wait for it........wait for it........ wham! Modulating throttle on my car at peak torque is near impossible. I had RTz drive my car a while back and he had the same conclusion. I always thought these characteristics were due to having a larger turbo. My turbo is some weird custom Innovative jobby that is not ball-bearing or as efficient as a Garrett GT series but it flows well for it's size. I'd like to upgrade to a GT35R some day to see if I gain any low-end boost response. What we all really want is a nice flat torque curve. I really doubt you could make a significant improvement in throttle modulation manipulating the throttle assy. If you added an eccentric cam wouldn't you sacrifice peak torque to flatten the curve? Cool idea BTW. Adding cubic inch, improving airflow, optimizing timing and adding an efficient BB turbo are the easiest non-exotic ways in my opinion. -John

I have all my pipes beaded. It eliminates the hassle of pipes popping off. Thanks for sharing!!

I'm a Spicer fan but Neapco should be just fine, especially the Brute Force model. You will gain some strength by going to a solid non-greasable joint. Any competent local drive axle should be able to identify the correct u-joint vs. mail order from MSA. Are you running a customer driveshaft or the original? I ask because your OEM driveshaft may not be have replaceable u-joints. I might be mistaken but that's what I vaguely remember. -John

Excellent post. Thank you. I will be switching out the front left caliper soon to fix the unequal braking behavior but the bias is also a concern. My hunch matches your suspicion. I don't think I could ever lock the rear brakes with my current setup. I use the Porterfield R4S pads which are the most aggressive street compound I know that don't require a warm-up. What pads do you use in the rear that would provide a higher coefficient of friction?

I ran 11.3 @ 124 with a 1.725 60ft on Bridgestone RE750's. They work well on a superbly prepared track but are useless if the track surface is marginal. Since the car is never driven in the rain I might go to a DOT competition tire. I'd like a tire that would work well for autocross and the occasional trip to the drag strip. I'm considering Proxes RA1. Side note: You probably know this but NHRA will boot you off the track if you don't have the necessary safety equipment when going faster than 11.49.

Correction: my calipers cannot be moved between sides. They are left/right specific... Not sure why I thought they were interchangeable.

The stock T3 is tiny. The T3/4 hybrid that 1979280zx mentions is a decent upgrade that should get him to 400crank HP if all the other supporting parts are in place. Personally I'd say the smaller 50 trim T04E compressor wheel is a better fit for the L28. The compressor map for the 50 wheel is superior is most every way as compared to the 57. The setup he mentions will bolt in to the stock location with the .50 A/R housing. Anything larger will hit the exhaust manifold unless a spacer is used. So my answer to his question is yes but with a 50 compressor wheel and a stage 3 turbine T3 wheel. The T4 57 or 50 compressor wheel will outflow what a stock T3 turbine wheel can handle. If he wants a slightly larger turbo over stock then go to a T3 Super 60 compressor or maybe even a T04E 46 trim with the stock turbine.

Thanks.

I know this is probably the most sought after item in the Z community but I thought I would start here just in case. I'm looking for an 1988 or 1989 300ZXT R200 differential with the clutch LSD and 3.7 gears. I cannot use a viscous R200 from the 1987 300ZXT SS. I'm not looking to low ball so please contact me if you have a working unit for sale. I have cash ready. Let me know. Thanks! jgkurz1 at gmail

Thanks Mark and Tony. My next step is to pull the front wheels off and check the pad wear between sides. The right side should have more wear if our assumptions are correct. I'll likely replace the LF caliper regardless. I do use R4S pads not the R4. One the street I'd hardly ever get the R4 pads heated up safely. I also am looking for some corner scales to test weight differential and weight jacking. BTW, shouldn't my rear brakes have locked also if the car was setup correctly? My assumption is that the rear brake bias should be slightly less than the front. Correct?

Here's how my adj valve is installed. The stock proportioning valve is removed. Both front brake lines are routed to the brake indicator switch in the stock locations with no connection to a valve. The one rear line coming out of the brake indicator switch has the adj valve inline before it goes to the rear of the car. It looks like I connected all this up properly back in the day. My next step is to replace the left front caliper. Stay tuned...

Thank you.

Yes, but I'm lazy and will likely just replace the suspect caliper under warranty so I don't have to bleed twice. : )

That would suck. The 4x4 brake upgrade has been an improvement over stock but not the night and day that I hoped for. I have put the brakes through some serious abuse so it seems to me that if I connected the adj. valve incorrectly I would have symptoms noticeable under all braking conditions. I will check when I get home. If you are right I'll be happy because it's an easy fix. Thanks for the suggestion.

The instructions came with the valve from Ross @ Modern Motorsports. http://www.modern-mo...&products_id=53 I don't have access to the car right now but I know the original valve is retained. I believe the instructions had me put adj valve is installed inline with the back brakes.

Excellent post. Thanks for taking the time Paul. Looks like I will get the car on corner weights... : ) I might also replace the front left caliper since it's under warranty.

Here a pic of the mounting location. I purchased the valve from Modern Motorsports and followed the Z specific installation instructions. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=60_61&products_id=53

Is there a shortcut to My Posts or My Subscriptions?The old forum software had this feature but I haven't been able to find the option since the upgrade. Thanks!

My springs are cut but they were all cut so they seated perfectly in the original location. The spring rate at each corner should be close to identical. Obviously this isn't ideal but I needed to lower the car on a limited budget so I went the "cut spring route". My future goal is to install coilovers with new springs that have rates for my specific application. I also need to swap to shortened struts vs my standard Tokico Illuminas. Rtz has told me this on more than one occasion.. With that said, is it still plausible that the front left caliper is contributing to the issue? It's under warranty so the part is free. BTW, How do coilovers change weight reading on a corner scale?

Hmmm, never thought of that. I'm about 200lbs. I did have a friend that weighs about 165lbs drive the car with me in the passenger seat and it still locked the front right.