jgkurz

Any update?

Happy 50th??? Wow you sure don't look your age.. Hope you had a great day and that you see this post before next week...

We are using cast "Fuelie" heads so I'll try to set it up for 38 total. Thanks for your input.

Thanks for the response. The car seems to run and crank well at 20deg BTDC. I've never, in my experience, had a SBC require so much intial advance so I was skeptical.

I have a bizarre problem where I hope someone can provide some enlightenment. I have a 283ci Small Block Chevy with a Crane Fireball II 302H camshaft. It's a hydraulic cam with a rough idle and good amount of overlap. The problem is it won't idle well if initial advance is under 20deg BTDC. I have verified that mechanical advance is not active at idle and that the timing chain is installed correctly. I have also confirmed TDC using a piston TDC indicator so I know my damper and timing chain cover mark is correct. I have not degreed the cam but I have never had a SBC require so much initial advance. Total advance is 42deg which is a bit high. Could a big overlap cam require 20deg BTDC initial advance? Is there something else I should check?

Good news... It looks like Nissan Motorsports has a crank for just our purpose and it's only $400.00. For some reason it wasn't widely known since it's not in the NISMO catalog. At least that's my understanding. Apparently the VQ35 de-stroke to 3.0L is common in SCCA GT2. Thanks to everyone for your comments. Next technical hurdle is getting the Darton Sleeves installed so the open deck is stabilized. http://www.dartonsleeves.com/mainpage.htm

No issue with the cable. It's tucked up nicely in the stock location. You might be onto something. I will double check and post my findings.

Hi All, I'm reaching out to the masses for help with a perplexing problem on my 77 280Z with Modern Motorsports 240sx rear disk and 280ZX CV conversion kits. Here's the issue. Recently my left rear wheel is making a clicking when I take off from a stop. This happens intermittently and does not matter whether I'm going forward or in reverse. I only hear the clicking on the initial movement of the car. Nothing is heard after I get rolling. I have checked the CV shaft bolts, lug nuts, wheel bearing play and break shoe clips but everything is perfect. The clicking SEEMS like it is near the wheel and not in the differential area. It occurs whether it's warm or cold. I don't think it's a wheel bearing since the noise is not the typical growl and seems more external. Can a bad wheel bearing make a clicking noise?? Applying the brakes or ebrake does not affect the noise in any way. It almost sounds like an outer CV shaft joint but I hate take it out unless I'm sure. I found this thread which is similar but it's not conclusive: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124355&highlight=clicking Any thoughts? Thank you,

I assume these prices are for a brand new crank? Thanks for checking!

kiwi303, I have an inquiry into a guy that deals with JDM engines here on the west coast USA. If he's doesn't turn anything up I take you up on your offer. Thanks for the help.

Thanks everyone for the VQ40 suggestions, but we literally have five complete VQ35 engines to use/pick from. Since we are budget minded we will try to make the project work without going to the VQ40. Great suggestion though... I have some feelers out for a JDM VQ23 crank, short block, or worst case a full engine. Hopefully something will turn up. VQ23DE Nissan VQ23DE engine installed in a 2004 Nissan Teana J31 The VQ23DE is a 2.3 L (2349 cc) engine equipped with CVTC (Continuously Variable-valve Timing Control). Bore and stroke are 85 mm and 69 mm, with a compression ratio of 9.8:1. It produces 173 PS (127 kW; 171 hp) @6000 rpm and 166 ft·lbf (225 N·m) @4400 rpm. It is fitted to the following vehicles: 2003–present Nissan Teana 230JM-J31 2006–present Renault Samsung Motors SM7 170 PS (130 kW; 170 hp) (Neo VQ23)

More MPH = More HP = Happiness I'll take an improvement where I can get it, especially if it's free.

Using this calculator I found that the VQ23 crank would be ideal. Now I just need to see if it will fit in a VQ35 block. Thanks Mack! http://www.bgsoflex.com/displacement.html VQ35 Stock: * Number of Cylinders are = 6 to 1 * Piston Diameter = 95.500 Millimeters * Piston Oversize = 0.000 Millimeters * Engine Stroke = 81.400 Millimeters * Computed Engine Displacement (CID) is 213 * Computed Engine Displacement (Litres) is 3.5 * Computed Engine Displacement (CC) is 3498.5 VQ35 with VQ23 crank: * Number of Cylinders are = 6 to 1 * Piston Diameter = 95.500 Millimeters * Piston Oversize = 0.000 Millimeters * Engine Stroke = 69.000 Millimeters * Computed Engine Displacement (CID) is 181 * Computed Engine Displacement (Litres) is 3.0 * Computed Engine Displacement (CC) is 2965.5

Good point. I'll start looking into whether the VQ23 crank will fit in the VQ35. If anyone knows where to look for this info let me know.

I knew the VQ23 existed from the Wikipedia entry but so far it's not been easy finding main journal specs on the VQ engines. Using a VQ20 - VQ25 crank may be the way to go but we need to somehow verify that the smaller crank will work in a VQ35 block. So far this link is the best I have: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VQ_engine

Hi Folks, I am helping a friend with a new Bonneville Land Speed project. The car is a F/BGR roadster. I believe the current record is 201mph. The car has been on the salt in the past but does not have an engine. The beauty of the roadsters are that you can run any engine you want as long as it complies to the displacement, fuel and power-adder rules. We have FREE access to several VQ35's which is a good thing. The bad thing is that we MUST not exceed 3.0L. The latest idea is to acquire a Nissan Motorsports VQ30 crank and rods which will get us to roughly 3.15L. To get down to 3.0L we are considering offset grinding the crank. Our desire is to use the VQ35 block due to the larger bores and abundance of parts. The machine work is being done pro-bono so we are not concerned about cost for that aspect. I'm posing this to HBZ to see if anyone has a better idea? I'd appreciate any comments.

I'd change out my condenser if necessary, but I'd like to get the system working to OEM capability first. There is an underlying problem that needs to be fixed before I consider any upgrades. In it's current state, the system will only bring the evap down to 60deg F with an outside temp of 90deg F. It should be capable of at least 40deg F. My guess is that the system has too much oil or my "professionally rebuilt" receiver/drier is somehow a problem. I'm reaching for anything at this point so I'll probably have Dustin (mentioned above) take a look when I can make the two hour drive down to Eugene.

Wow!!! 130mph is fast. You must be well over 500bhp. Get your 60ft down you'll be in the 10's.

I agree. That's the main reason I have not converted.

Hmmmmm. That's a great idea. I just can't stand dealing with people who don't understand that a custom car is not the same as an OEM car. In other words, I'm not going to stay in the waiting room while someone works on my Z. The only way that would happen is with someone like Dustin. Thanks for the idea.

Steve, I can't thank you enough for taking the time to respond. I will heed your advice this time and give my R12 system one more try. I may go R134 at some point like Hugh suggested since I can get the product at a local parts store.

This is a little embarrassing but I recently found out my Weber 60mm T-body was not getting full throttle when I went to WOT on my gas pedal. For whatever reason, when I built the car I didn't do a good job of making sure I had full throttle travel. The butterfly opens 100% by hand but only 95% using the pedal. I fixed this by adjusting down the throttle stop under the pedal. I feel like an idiot but am happy for some extra ponies... : ) I'm hoping it will translate into a 10th or two in the quarter mile. Lesson: Always check for WOT at both the t-body and gas pedal.

The local Portland, OR A/C guru's will charge me about 500.00 to do an oil/R12 flush and refill. They are a different shop from the one by my house where I have gone previously. Also, they don't like working on custom applications like my Z without being paid big $$$. The $500.00 quote assumes an OEM setup and not with all my intercooler pipes and such. Who knows what they'll say when they see my car in person. Most likely I'll get some BS about no warranty or best effort. I really was hoping the expansion valve was the easy fix but I guess not. To answer your airflow question, I would say my condenser is getting adequate but not excellent airflow. When I am on the highway I have plenty of air flow through the condenser and my evaporator temp can only manage 60deg F. From this I assume my consensor temp is not the issue. The receiver-drier from ALL aftermarket shops including eBay show for my 77Z are not correct. I don't know why but everyone sells the earlier version with the inlet tube in the middle of the cylinder. My inlet, outlet and pressure switch are all on top of the cylinder. This is how all late 77 and 78 Z's were setup. Nissan, Beck Arney, Worldpac, Black Dragon, MSA...etc all sell the incorrect receiver-drier. Because of this I had mine rebuilt by a reputable shop (At least I hope) When we filled my system we based the amount on the sight glass and high pressure reading. I doubt we have too much R12 but I'm not an expert. BTW, I appreciate your input and advice. You have been very helpful. If indeed I have too much oil in the system I'm not sure how to get it out of the compressor, receiver-drier, condenser and evaporator. I find it hard to believe that a flush would pull it all out even if I pay $500.00+

Well folks, I'm a little bummed. The new expansion valve didn't do squat. I have the same problem. The low and high pressure gauges read normal, no leaks, bubbles or plugged screens. The evaporator gets to about 60deg F but that's as cold as it will go. The only symptom that MIGHT be an indication of an issue is the fact that we can't get more than about 1lb of R12 in the system before it's full. I had the system evacuated professionally 3 times then recharged 3 times. According to the Nissan manual the systems should take 1.4 - 1.8lb R12. My hunch is that I have too much oil in the system. The only way to solve that is to have everything flushed which will cost $300.00 to $500.00. Man what a pain.