jgkurz

Joel, what oil do you use? Jt's comment about zinc isn't the first time I've heard that recommendation when running a solid valve train. I have a relatively new Isky cam in my L28 and there have been no wear issues so far. Maybe it's time to add zinc. I'll check my local parts store. EDIT: Nevermind on the oil question... I scrolled to the right and I see you use Mobil1 10w30 synthetic. Exact same oil I use!

You will have to go through DEQ if the car is registered in Beaverton. All vehicles 1975 or newer and in the metro area will need to pass emissions testing. http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/DMV/vehicle/emissions.shtml -John

As a final effort I replaced the left rear wheel bearing. Guess what, no more clicking. I wish I would have changed them from the start. Oh well.

I'm a Canon fan and am currently coveting this: http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_50d Check these sites out if you don't already use them. http://www.dpreview.com/ http://www.imaging-resource.com/ -John

Good price but that's for the X170 not the HD170 which has 1080P capability. The standard resolution would probably be fine for most folks but I would like the higher quality video so it looks better on my big LCD. J

I like the GoPro but it doesn't have a remote. For me that is a big deal since it's be used mostly for automotive related video. The ContourHD is also a nice unit but it too lacks a remote. I might go in half with a friend on the Drift HD170 to make it a little easier on the wallet. J

I've been wanting one of these cameras for a while but wanted to waiting until one came available with a wireless remote. This one has an RF remote and offers 1080p video. Not cheap but it sure would get some great video. Drift HD170 Amazon has it for 329.00 shipped. -John

John still has them... Yay!

Are these still available for purchase?

Try these folks also. They're just down the street. I've had quality work done by both shops. OREGON DRIVE AXLE 12533 SW MAIN ST PORTLAND, OR 97223-6111 (503) 639-9476 Ask for JR

Here's the cam that's in it right now. WAY overkill. Like you suggest, we are planning to take a head off so we can identify the pistons and stroke. Thanks for the response. -John

Hi All, I am helping a friend get his newly acquired 71 Ford Bronco running and need some advice. The engine is a seeming radical 302. We know very little about the engine but are convinced it needs to be de-tuned. When he bought it earlier this week it had a tunnel ram with dual 4 barrel Holleys, NOS, Victor Jr heads and a HUGE Crower solid cam. Something to the tune of .579 lift. It runs like total crap. We switched the tunnel ram out for a basic dual plane aluminum intake with a 600cfm 1850 Holley. We want to buy a new cam and lifters since the current cam is completely stupid for the street. I know what profile I want, but I am hesitating because I am not sure about the static compression. If it's 9.5:1 then that one cam, if it's 11:1 then I'd go with a different cam. It's my understanding that a typical compression test won't help since I believe the current cam would affect the results. Any idea's? Also, the valve springs are triple's? Should I remove one of the inner springs if I want to run a street hydraulic cam?

Well it wasn't the brakes or the CV shaft so next is the rear wheel bearing. Based on a post I saw on zcar.com I think the bearing may be the culprit. Strange that it would click/tink vs the typical growl when a wheel bearing is failing. The bearing really is the only thing remaining other than the diff which I'm told is likely not the problem. Changing a rear wheel bearing on a Z sucks so wish me luck. J

FWIW, I have a similar setup as you but do not run an oil cooler. I have flogged my car at an 85deg track day for 30min at 26psi peak and the oil temp never went above 220degF. This is with Mobile1 15w50. On the street I run Mobile1 10w30. I mostly attribute the good oil temps to an excellent radiator and cooling system. I actually bought everything to put an oil cooler on my engine but chose not to install it because I never see dangerous temps. Just a thought but are you sure you need an oil cooler? The weight and complexity was not worth the trouble for me. -John

Thanks Jon. I was hoping you'd reply. I feel better that my LSD is probably working normally. To confirm the length question, the 280ZX turbo CV shafts definitely are right/left specific. Unfortunately most all re-manufactured parts houses do not know there is a difference so if you find one there is no guarantee it's correct. See here for measurements: 280ZXT Axle Shaft Specifications

Hi All, I've been having a strange clicking noise come from my left rear wheel area and need to troubleshoot the problem. I've eliminated the brake as the culprit and decided that the CV shaft was worth a look. The click noise sounds just like a front wheel drive car when the CV's are worn and it turns a corner. My wheel bearing also seems in good shape. For what ever reason I have been unable to duplicated the problem when the car is jacked up. My idea was was to remove the left CV then drive the car around the block to see if the noise was still present. I had an inner joint from an old shaft that I used to plug the diff. My thought was that since it is a CLSD that the car would still operate but only on the right rear wheel. In reality, when I pushed the throttle the car it wouldn't move anywhere. It felt just like a slipping clutch. I blipped the throttle gently a couple times and decided that either my LSD is worn out or it needs both sides installed to work properly. The odd part is that I have superb traction and always thought the LSD was working fine based on excellent 60ft times at the drag strip. I've never tried to do a burnout just to see if I lay two strips. While the car is jacked up both tires are move the same direction as would be expected on an LSD. So is my diff worn or do both axles need to be installed for the LSD to work properly? Thanks, John

I agree that a 250mm Z32 clutch would easily hold my power levels, but converting a 240mm L28 flywheel to accept a 250mm clutch is not a simple task. I also am guessing the 250mm setup would add more weight which isn't a big deal but is a consideration.

I have not figured it out but I now believe it has something to do with the pad retainer clips. I hope to narrow this down soon as the noise is really annoying. -John

510six, thanks for the response. I'm over 420rwhp so I guess the triple is in order. Did you have to modify your throwout bearing assy or slave? Are the street manners any better than the sintered-iron setup? -John

510six, I know this is an old post, but are you still running the 10,000rpm clutch? I too have the sintered-iron clutch from Clutch Specialties and I'm getting tired of it's street manners. My car is street driven, autoX'd, and drag raced so I have always assumed that I'd have to live with an annoying clutch. The sintered-iron setup is my fourth clutch and is the only one that would hold when boost comes on. I might be willing to switch to a 10,000rpm setup but I want to make sure 1) it fits in my BW T5 bell housing, TO-bearing and slave 2) it'll hold over 500ft lb torque with a VERY steep ramp up 3) the street manners are better then my sintered-iron clutch. 4) it can still be drag raced and AutoX'd affectively I talked to Ron at 10,000rpm and he thinks the 7.4 2-disk kevlar work work well but I'd really like your perspective before I buy. It's nearly impossible to find a clutch that can perform all three of my requirements well but I thought I'd give 10,000rpm a look. Thanks, John

Scary stuff. I would like adj rear arms but the debate on HBZ have always made me weary. Arizona Z also has the billet aluminum control arms with heim joints that might be worth a look. Who makes the new arms in your bottom picture?

The green Z ran 10.92 @ 198KPH/123MPH. That's amazing with an NA motor and no nitrous. He's got to be making close to 400HP.

I use the factory Nissan T3 turbine housing but it was machined to accept a larger 10-blade wheel. I believe the MSA downpipe will only fit the combined Nissan turbine/wastegate. I used the factory wastegate for a while but I had terrible boost control. This was mostly due to enlarging the wastegate port which was a mistake in hindsight. The T4 compressor will just fit without a spacer when using the original L28ET turbine but you must use the very small .50 A/R compressor housing.

What part of this statement ".57 COMPRESSOR WHEEL TRIM.50 A/R COMPRESSOR.63 A/R TURBINE" implies anything other than a T3/4 hybrid? I will agree that it's vague but there is enough information to make a reasonable assumption.

Here's the catalog from when I bought my 7181 Isky L6 cam.