jeromio

That is, in fact, an excellent idea. And to both yours and Pyro's points, I will restate Briguy's point: When you do this, you add to existing discussion, you make it easy for people to answer your question and you help create a nice trail for others to follow. I definitely made a mistake when I made my long reply reagarding the merits of searching in this thread. I think this topic should be moved to the NonTech board.

OKay. The initial question was annoying because, as Tim already stated, this issue has been discussed ad nauseum on this board. The question, to me, reads thusly: The follow-ons were just more clutter. This statement: demonstrates, to me, that you do not understand the value that a resource such as this forum brings. Not taking the 10 seconds of your time to use the search facility and wasting harddrive space and bandwidth and other users time with your redundant question shows a complete lack of respect for hybridz.org. Post count is an assinine measure of contribution. (and yes, my long winded reply here is also wasting resources, but hopefully some will get the point) How about I make my point with an example of the kind of question that might have shown some value: I am considering either an LT1 or an LS1 swap. I have searched around and I see that these are completely different motors with very little in common. I also see that one costs more and is much more difficult to install, yet makes a bit more power.. In fact only 4 or 5 of the many members here have successfully completed the swap. BTW, this actually made it much easier for me to perform the search that I started this journey with since I could simply use the usernames "Phantom", "Lonestar1", "Cyrus", "Maichor" or "jeromio" to get all the information I could possibly consume on this subject. Oh wait, I guess I don't actually have a question after all.... If no one ever had to suggest to people that the search button will answer their queries, then we would not have to increase our cherished "post counts" with such a reply. Personally, I think Tim was doing storm280z a great kindness with his reply. If it were up to me, there'd be a Search button right next to the Preview and Submit buttons. That way maybe people would accidentally search for answers once and awhile.

Ah yes, I remember it fondly. No wait, what I remember fondly are the car budget dollars that you gave me in exchange for it Just re-read my post and what I meant to say was not nearly as extreme.

Oh, mine is similar, but nearly as extreme as mas280's. It is much flatter. I actually have my console and homemade suede shift boot over mine. (BTW, I made the boot from a black pigskin suede miniskirt that I bought at the thrift store for $1)

This thread is annoying and should probably be deleted. Bad information is much worse than no information. As Tim said USE THE SEARCH! You will find many answers to your questions.

I bought a cheap-ass shifter cover from AdvancedAuto (Kragen for you west coasters). It's an accordian rubber mojobbie with a trim ring. It had a sort of slotted hole like it's meant for an old 60s Hurst-style shifter, but my round shifter shaft fits through. I put a bead of gasket cement around the edge before installing it.

Nerves of steel. Actually, it wasn't all that bad. The part is cast aluminum - pretty soft. I used the rubber O-ring that the OEM fitting employs so that I would not have to tighten the fitting too hard. info here: http://240z.jeromio.com/motorswap/t56.html

I very much doubt that the T5 slave is compatible with the LS1 T56. The LS1 T56 uses a hydraulic throwout-bearing style slave. As I recall, mine was less than $100 though. Try some of the online places: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/index.cfm http://www.expressautoparts.com/ - Actually, I think I got mine from a dealership that sponsors http://ls1tech.com. Look in their sponsor list or the special sponsor's specials/group purchase board. I think it was a pontiac dealership. Wish I could remember because the guy was very prompt and helpful. See my site for modifications to the slave to work with standard parts.

I think what JKDGabe is trying to do is snare this guy somehow. What I would do is contact your state attorney general's office and just hand over all this info to them. Then let them decide if they want to use you to get more evidence against the guy. Personally, I'm intrigued by the process and would be curious to see how or if the authorities can go after scamsters like this.

Nope. Sectioning (shortening) is only necessary if you plan to lower the car more than an inch and a half or so. I'd say anywhere from 1 to 2 inches. Keep in mind that with "stock" 30 year old springs, your car is not riding at it's original height. So, if you upgrade springs, you'll want shorter ones. Yep. I didn't want to section too much - just being a girl I suppose. As to your cartridge replacement job, be prepared. It's no small job. You must remove the whole strut assembly. As Tim said, get the spring compressors and a big pipe wrench. New carts come with new gland nuts, so no worries about tearing up the old ones. The instructions with the new cartridges should tell you about the oil to put in the tube along with the cart (for heat dissipation). I put too much in mine and it leaked out and made a mess. Also, be very careful with the spring top isolators. I had one with an abused D hole that was fairly rounded out - ended up causing my cart to get stripped out. I was able to weld back the flat before replacing with a new cart, but I sure hated having to buy another new one. If yours are loose, you'll want to either get new ones or try and have yours repaired.

Glad you're back. There's been some recent discussion about your diffmount design on this site. One thing that occurs to me looking back at your site: you appear to have finished your car, and it stayed finished. No additional tweaks, customizations, modifications, etc? Did you start some other project car? Just been spending your time fishing?

He's a member here, maichor: : http://hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=25855. [bTW, that's an LS1]

Your engine compartment is just too shiny. You need to spill some brake fluid on there or something. That STB looks pretty nice.

Wait, did you sandblast the entire car??

I'm curious and a little confused about the slotting mod for toe adjustment. Is this strictly to adjust for toe of both wheels relative to the chassis? In other words, this doesn't help for adjusting a toe out or toe in condition? I wonder if removing a section of the lower rear cross member (behind diff cover) and fitting a threaded rod in there would be a good idea. Combine that with slotted vertical members to gain full toe adjustment. Of course, there's a slight change in caster too. Hrmm...

You know, there is a big GrandAm/AIX race weekend at VIR that weekend (Oct 3-5). If you drive some backroads you'll pass right by ....

Just to be clear, I can't take credit for the idea. I copied it from Simon deGroot (who lives in Australia and has built an amazing 240Z). Those pics appear to show 2 diff cross members, cut in half, with the 2 big humped pieces welded back together. I could make another one, but I'd have to charge you $10,000 for it

I guess the SP5000s might not be great wet weather tires. They are claimed to be good - that's why I bought them. I was primarily looking for wet weather handling. Immediately after my 180, I parked the car and ordered my wheels and tires. As to rear alignment, I know I have some toe out, perhaps 1/2 inch difference between leading and trailing (dunno what that translates to in degrees). The car is fairly low. I have not had a rear alignment performed on the car, because to my knowledge there is nothing that can be adjusted. I suppose I could get offset bushings, but I'm leary of those.

<amateur opinion>You're either running too lean or too far advanced or both</amateur opinion> Assuming your marks are accurate, I don't see how 10deg. adv. is too far - seems like it ought to be more like 13-15. So that leaves mixture. Now you're talkin carbs and I hate carbs, so I can't help you. Pull a plug and see if it's white - ought to be tannish brown. My own personal experience with mysterious no-starts is that it's always ignition. Either a blown coil, bad wires, fouled plugs or a disconnected, broken or shorted wire. Put a timing light on the coil wire and it should flash when you crank, put it on all the other 8 wires and it should also flash. Check your front bowl and make sure it's full.

Tires don't seem all that wide. Friend's M3 has same sized Michelin something or others and they look much more squared off and therefore fatter (more tread width). Mine are a bit roundish - not as much actual tread on the road. Car has no rear sway bar, stock one up front. All bushings are poly. Carts are Tokico Performas. Springs are 150fr/175r. I think they're pretty hard (skateboard-like) and therefore may be contributing to my issues here, but John probably thnks they're marshmellos And yeah, with the V8, mr. throttle must be used with extreme care in wet. In dry too actually. What mostly freaks me is cruising at constant speed, say 55mph, and driving into a wetter spot in the highway. You know how on a cement freeway some parts just don't drain as well as others. If I hit an actual puddle, the front may lurch, but it mostly tracks fine. It's the rear that feels squirrely. I also wonder if it is just me. I did have a very bad experience with my previous wheels and worn tires ('bout 2 years ago) where, going 40mph on the highway around a slight curve, the back-end came around and I did a 180. Scared the boseefus out of me. Anyway, that could've just made me extra sensitive. Like how sometimes, even when my cell phone is not in my breast pocket, I'll feel a phantom vibration and think my phone is ringing.

So, lately I drive my Z on a daily basis. The car sticks very nicely when it's dry. But in the rain, this car is not fun to drive. It's somewhat scary. Okay, really scary. I can cruise at 60, even 65, but if there's any kind of standing water, either because the road has slight puddles, or the rain is coming down heavy, I cna feel the rear slipping side to side and it is very butt-clenching. So, when it gets moist, I tend to slow waaay down. Other cars I drive, Contour (SVT) and my old 68 Travelall (33" A/Ts) are just fine in the wet. No tangible difference wet or dry really (except if you actually do hit a huge puddle with those giant tires in the truck). I have decent tires: Dunlop SP5000 235/45/17. I have a pretty bad one wheel peel issue on the driver's side wheel so I had to replace that tire recently. Before that the car simply could not be driven in any kind of wet. So, is it Zs in general? Light weight? Is it just my car - somehow messed up suspension?

I have pics on my site of my ECU mounting. Lonestar put his in the engine bay (which is where it is on the Camaro). There is a bracket you could prolly get from a salvage yard. I made my own. I modded my harness - mine was an A4, but I switched to T56, so I just cut off the A4 parts. I know Cyrus took his completely apart and removed all excess. That takes ambition. He claimed the extra wiring weighed quite a bit (I forget the number, but it was high). I believe Lonestar used the GM harness. You'll need a shop manual. I got a second hand set on CD. Mine is for all GM 97-2000 or something. Very, very useful and only cost like $50 on ebay.

That's a nice car. Is that the actual one you are picking up? Needs an LS1 in it 8)

In the spirit of ancient times, I dusted off the ol' FAQ and added this to the Susp.->Struts section: http://240z.jeromio.com/faqdraft/

Just got a damn speeding ticket tonight. Ironically, I was conscientiously driving a reasonable speed. Basically, I was coasting down a hill on a 4 lane. Claimed 55 in 35, which I actually do not believe. He "Cut me a break" and wrote it up for 54. Great, thanks. So my insurance goes up $5K over the next 3 years instead of $5200. Also, I noticed yesterday that my 4000 mile Dunlops have no tread in the back. I have peeled 'em twice on purpose - not smoked per se, just peeled. Then I did have 2 or 3 accidental low traction situations. It's easy to forget that this car has an insane power to weight when you pop it down to go around some slow-ass, or when gunning it out of a strip mall to make it into a hole in rush hour traffic. But still, these tires are virtually brand new. And they are supposed to have a decent treadwear - they're SP5000s. So, now I am totally out of money. All this, lawyer, court costs, 2 new tires, comes straight out of the car budget..... No way can I get to Reynolds now.