jeromio

On the Z, half shafts have nothing to do with the suspension. If you've changed the half shaft angles such that it has actually affected your tire contact patch, then, well, that just does not sound right - possibly even really wrong Moving the diff up will have some positive effects on a lowered car. If it's lowered, the shafts will be straight (parallel to the ground) or even angled up a bit at rest, and under accel, will angle up. This will introduce some strain that can break parts (shafts, joints, stubs, etc.). Anything change to the diff position must be done such that the driveshaft angles are correct - that is, the UJoints must be in phase, or you get bad harmonics and vibration. I actually think I have this problem on my car, despite the time I spent trying to get things lined up. I guess what I'm saying is that I am skeptical that any such mod would affect something like wheel hop. I don't see how it could affect traction either. I dunno though, I could be wrong. Maybe ScottieGNZ or someone with some more knowledge than me will weigh in on this thread with some tech.

You know, my son is dying to see this movie and it sure seems geared towards his eight-year old sensibilities. So why the hell is it R Rated? A damn shame, although it does give me a nice excuse not to have to go see it.....

What TimZ says does make some sense. By stiffening the front, you'll be working your tires alot harder. I dunno - I know nothing about suspensions. You should check out http://forums.corner-carvers.com/search.php?s= - the suspenion board there has lots of in-depth information. Also, there's a particular thread someplace near the top (has like 500 replies) titled something like Check out this setup for a 66 Mustang. Lots of detailed tech on suspension and vehicle dynamics. Very learny. (Just a warning though, be sure to search before you post - they really like to crucify new people there. You'll probably find plenty in the archives though)

Very, very nice. What, no PVC drain pipe on yours? 8) I do have one question about your air in take - where'd you stick the IAT sensor? Also, that is one impressive looking upper radiator hose. Hard to believe that wasn't custom made.

This sounds very fishy. Very. The wheel sensors are part of the emissions system? No way. Is your car throwing a P1380 code? If I were you, I would go to the conversions board over at http://ls1tech.com. Lots of people there from Cali who've swapped LS1s into their cars. I have never heard of anyone having to hook up abs sensors. You would need the entire ABS system. You would need the BCM too. I really think someone is giving you bogus info. This is an extremely esoteric situation. Here's a quote from my manual:

Huh? I'm not saying it blocks out all ads on a Page (although there is an extension that attempts to do just that). The freely downloadable version of Opera has it's own ads, sponsoring your use of the browser, that are incoporated into the browser app itselt. What I was saying is that Mozilla has no such ads. As to being able to defeat popups, that's easy. Mozilla has functionality that allows some specific domains to create popups (a filter list). But it's fairly easy for the browser rendering code to simply not allow one page to spawn a new instance of the browser. Surely the next version of IE will block popups as well, although you never know. Also, it allows you to selectively allow display of Flash content which lets you block out those hugely annoying Intel, VW, etc. ads

Mozilla Firebird has a mouse gestures thingio too. I dunno - foreign to me. I'm also digging the tool bar with the google box up in the corner. Waiting for them to finish up the server stored bookmarks feature so I can stop using the Yahoo toolbar. Also, this is opensource - totally free. No ads, no nothing. Even better is that you can vote on bug fixes and feature improvements.

I started actually using Mozilla yesterday. Mozilla is now officially an opensource application framework backed by AOL, IBM and Sun. The actual browser is called Firebird. I am now putting away IE. This one is actually way better. More configurable and much, much faster. Pages just pop right up. And speaking of, it includes pop-up blocking. Also has themes, several extensions - very nice. There are some niggling little issues, but their bug tracking is phenominal. The touchpad scrolling didn't work on my laptop. 10 seconds of searching turned up a tracked issue with a simple fix. Impressive. (Turns out Synaptics does their window scrolling in a very strange, non-standard way). My all time, hands down favorite feature is actually Text selection. In IE, like all windows apps that depend on MS libraries, text selection is "smart". That is, if you try and select a few letters of a word, it "smartly" ASSumes you must want the whole word - or even words plural. Freaking infuriates me. But these guys don't use any MS libraries!! Oh the subtle joy of regaining simple control. I am such a dork......

Nice wheels. I could do that for a living - make wheels. Way too timid to be an entrepreneur though. Oi that bboard is awful: everyone has a huge sig with an overly detailed write up of their car with giant photos. Tacky. Carbon Fiber Door Sills?

Didn't realize you still had drums. Aren't you worried that all that dual turbo fury might snap a stub axle and send the whole wheel a-flyin'?

At the risk of telling you something you already know, Scottie had posted here a year ago or so about a similar problem. The bolts go thru the water jackets, so you have to use a special thread sealant.

They'll be selling a "V Series" version of that car in '04 with an LS6/6spd. Can't say I like the looks of that particular car, but damn, a 4 door RWD with an LS6 and 6sdp - and everything is already done and there's a warranty and financing.....

Search Button. You should find it, and use it.

Well, just to tie up this thread, let's be clear. My post was meant as friendly advice to others considering swapping rear ZX calipers on their early Z. The only thing better than learning from your own mistakes is learning from someone else's. Personally, I have a huge stockpile of mistakes that any and all are welcome to learn from. IMO, the ZX rear caliper swap was one of those. I have gone thru multiple sets. Two on the left side and now 3 on the right. BTW, I do have the ebrake connected and that is another PITA about these things. The adjustment mechanism does not work all that well. Furthermore, and this is not the fault of the cals, the 240Z's drum brake ebrake cable doesn't work that well with the caliper. There's not enough travel. So the thing has to be adjusted perfectly to work - any drift and the ebrake stops working. Also, the fronts happen to be ZX units. No complaints about those so far (other than the exhorbitant cost of the anti-rattle hardware which I am missing). But seriously, if you're going to take negative comments about a particular part on a particular car personally, well, that is really just pathetic. Hopefully the 240sx swap works better in this regard.

Fronts sat for the same amount of time. No problems. And when the calipers started leaking a month after I first rebuilt them, there was no sitting around then. And when the rear cal on the driver's side was replaced with a rebuilt unit and started leaking a couple of months after I installed it - no sitting. How exactly does lack of use cause leaking? These were not dried out. They're not seized up. Brakes on my blue truck that sits for 4-5 years at a time (don't ask) are fine. I guess these rear cals are the only "normal" ones then, huh? Maybe it's just me. A rear caliper curse. Or maybe if I'd been around cars as long as ol' David K I'd I've been able to knock this LS1 swap out alot sooner and therefore not have ruined my brakes from lack of use . Right. Yes, 240sx calipers seem to me like the way to go. I just don't have no dollars for that. And Jim, I wouldn't worry about it. If letting parts (brake or otherwise) sit around unused causes them to fail, then I guess NAPA, Autozone, Kragen, Carquest, etc. should all just close their doors forever.

I tried rebuilding - these things have that nested cylinder for the ebrake that is just not rebuildable. I've tried and even Terry has tried. These calipers are just heinous.

I felt the need to once again make this info easily available to any and all. Those ZX rear calipers are to be avoided. Caliper number 3 is leaking like a mofo. And it's out of warranty now since the car sat for 2 years (1 year warranty), even though it only has like 1000 miles on it. So, I guess I'll go buy another one Any of you still hunting for the mythical Maxima rear brackets - STOP! Don't do it!

I guess that means you have LS1Edit? Otherwise, the PCM cuts fuel at 5800rpm. From my few days of driving my car with the 4.11, I can tell you that 6th will be useless with anything lower (numerically) than a 3.7. My lowest practical speed in 6th is 60. I've gone 55, but it's really strange, and difficult to accelerate out of. On the other hand, 1st is still surprisingly usable. I didn't expect that. Yeah, it's pretty easy to boil the tires, but more and more I think I'lll just keep the 4.11 - at least for now. LSD would certainly be nice.

Ouch. You didn't read my reply to your other post? Oil pan won't work either. Heads, intake, exhaust do interchange. You apparently have not checked out http://ls1tech.com or the FAQ on http://ls1.com. Wasn't aware of a 5.4 - always heard it referred to as a 5.3 (327ci)? Motor will be relatively heavy - compared to an LS1. Either way it's a headache to install since it's totally different from a JTR-able SBC. I dunno, seems a shame to go thru all the hassle to end up with a truck motor in your Z . It's gonna be setup for low-end torque, not a lightweight sports car. This is not gonna be a terrible swap - but I think somewhat less than ideal. Ususally when people go to iron block it's the 6.0L and they need it for blower/turbo apps.

Your switch is bad. They pretty much came that way from the factory. See Pete's page for details on a permanent solution: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska

This may be redundant and obvious, but if you move the diff mount, make sure you move the whole thing (ie, front and rear). As Pete's site details, maintaining proper ujoint phase is important. I spent a great deal of time trying to ensure proper phase, but I'm worried that I may have some bad drivetrain harmonics anyway (in other words, I didn't do a good enough job). It's hard to tell though since the damn exhaust is SOOOO loud.

So, I've rewired my entire car using a nice 20 circuit fuse box from 2nd gen Maxima. I have the "lights" on one circuit. I put that in quotes because what that really means is that the lightswitch gets power from that circuit and the switch then controls the gauge lights and 2 relays. I have it set up so that the low beam relay stays on when the high beam relay turns on - tryna goose those sucky lights up as much as possible. The relays are 50amp units controlled by 14 guage wires running to them from the switch, and they are grounded about 3 inches from where they're mounted. The juice for the headlights comes from thick 10 guage wires that are both fused off of a common 30amp fuse that is directly connected to the "main" pole. Anyway, I tested all this out before taping it all up - except that I didn't have my gauges at that time. Then, last night was my first time actually driving the car at night. So, lights worked fine, but when I went to flip on my brights, fuse blew!?! It was a 15amp fuse. I put a 30amp fuse in its place for now. But I am confused. Why would 2 relays and 5 little bulbs draw so much juice? I suppose for a start, I should separate the high lows (so that lows turn off when highs are on). I will also go make sure that the connections to the relays are all tight. But is there anything else inherently wrong with my setup?

I will be deaf after a few weeks of driving this car. My ears ring for about 20minutes after I get out. I am going to have to tweak my exhaust. I have 2.5 Y'd into 3 and then to a MAC muffler. It is LOUD. I said LOUD. And cruising in 6th is the worst - it kind of resonates at 65mph in a low, mind-scrambling way. So, the only idea I have is to add a resonator after the Y. Something like this: 3 in 3 out 12in long. That's about all I think I can fit. My question is, for $45 and a Saturday spent, will I notice a big improvement?

Brad D is correct. The trucks use an iron block. They also have a deeper pan which cannot be used and a taller intake which may not fit under the hood. Technically, the LS1 is the aluminum 5.7liter. All GenIII chevy V8s use similar dimensions and common, interchangeable parts.

In one of the recent LS1 posts we discuss the best options for motor and accessory mounting. If you use another crossmember behind the stock one, and the Corvette mounts, and remove the Datsun motor towers, then you can mount all the accessories with the standard FBody brackets. The only issue is the A/C bracket has to be shaved by 1/2 inch. This is the technique being used by Cyrus and a few others. Someone (Maichor?) has even posted measured drawings of his 2nd crossmember.