Mudge

Yet again I have to agree, why make up for a bad driver with a poorly handling car? Having a heavy front end (again like in my 4th gen Camaro) results in poor turn in, loss of grip on the front, understeer city! This is fine for most people getting to work, but on a road course (not a straight line venture) then this is definitely not optimal.

Agreed. This is an issue most american car owners face (Camaros, etc). Moving the battery to the rear, etc all used by people who road race these poorly weight distro'd cars. I'd rather keep the front end tied down via aero. Saying that more weight up front is best, is like saying that Ferrari's suck because of thier 40% front/60% rear weight distro which is often used by midengine cars. I am not making a statement of JTR versus Scarab as I don't know enough of either yet.

Sorry, but the 305 is a POS. To get 230 RWHP the CamaroMustangChallenge guys do have a specific setup to hit those numbers, the Edelbrock intake is one of them, and a mild cam. Those guys are not allowed to run headers.

The cam mates to the block, the cam is just a cam unless you got the wrong cam for your engine. Those guys are morons then, and THEY ordered the part not you, so its THIER fault. If you got the right cam for your engine, they got the wrong freaking bearings.

Gear ratio in the trans is often tied to what the torque rating is, example is the T56 in the 93 versus 94 Camaro. If the T5s are anything like what the Camaro got, then the Bulletproof nomer is a fat joke, they brake them all the time, nearly stock cars and those old Camaros made decent torque but not all that much power to speak of at all.

Not sure why your car would do that, I know a guy who hit 197MPH with about a 3200 pound race weight and around 490HP, Silver State Classic 1999 I believe.

Even if you were to pickup an extra 5 cubes from boring it out, your doing it for the purposes of rebuilding the engine, not making power. If you were even making 2HP per cube, thats an extra 10HP, big whuppee.

I get Document Not Found The document you requested could not be found.

You have to sign up to view the files, so authentication is required to see them.

I ran 11.4:1 on an LT1, stock bottom, stock pistons. It is reverse cooled which helps (and hurts at the same time), but you are probably fine if your timing work is right regardless. I am in CA also, 91 MTBE Craptane.

I'm curious too, I love that Ford firing order sound.

High RPM = Fast wear and hard on parts (valve springs etc) I still say go big, no reason to go small, more expensive high RPM parts, fast wear, lack of low end, blech.

If you drag the picture link to the address bar they will show up, then you can hit the back button to get back (or alt left-arrow).

So are we saying the rear of these cars 'gets light' at high speed? The C5 Vette is the same way, and I imagine many cars are. Is anyone using software to try and analyze this info?

I gotcha dude, I didn't know to comment or not, then figured I shouldn't fill up the board I still figure that to some extent these are things that hold true to any car, but I do not know the natural 'safe' limit for L6 engines in stock bottom form, don't know.

That is another good point too, timing will be different based on the weight of the vehicle and to some extent AF at WOT as well.

You can safely take a stock stroke or stroker motor to high RPM though, so why bother? I still would only destroke if forced to by regulation.

LoL

Thats exactly what I was going to say, damn similar. I believe the first Lamborghini was a straight 6 as well, with 3 carbs. It shared oil with the engine/trans, ick! Check the second clip on this site: http://www.ccsi.com/~tholt/video.htm

Years ago Ford promised an NA engine though, and they didn't deliver. Any monkey can slap a blower on a car and make power, dissapointing. Is the video clip dead, or just for awhile?

Part of the idea of an open rear end is actually creating a small vacuum in that area, as well as not trapping air underneath the car and simply causing resistance/lift. That seems to be the basic setup, block the front, sideskirts, and open rear, and whatever wing(s) and slanted nose setups that might get used.

Is the stock frame a solid unit, or is it a unibody? Dumb question, but I'm a Z car newbie

You can find them for around $175 I think at the lowest, for an NGK sensor. I forget exactly the Honda setup but I think there may be something special about it to pull the kind of miles they do out of them, normally widebands do not last that long. They may not all have the same voltage outputs either, which is why a controller ready to go would be 'easier' than figuring it out, and logging, on your own.

IIRC power levels must be above 11.9v at all times, I think you have something like 200-400ms before you "nuke" the PCM if these conditions are not met. I know a guy who can repair the OBD I PCMs though incase something goes awry. Tunercat also turns on the FAN #1/#2 relays, when LT1 Edit does not, so I used to unplug my relays before getting down and dirty, to save battery. Turn your key to the ON POSITION (dont start the car of course), wait about 10 seconds for VATs to do its things (not sure how that will work with a VATs bypass), and then you can read or write to the PCM. This should take about 3 minutes, dont interupt it, make sure there is no powersaving on the laptop etc Most guys that write the editorials talk about LT1 Edit, the terminology is different but if you know cars you should have no problems, I can 'translate' if need be for anyone. http://para.noid.org/~lj/PCM%20Tutorial/PCMtutorial.htm http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/LT1Edit/LT1files.htm (good explanation of the sensors etc) http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/ScanMast.htm http://www.wotelectronics.com/cables.html http://www.carprogrammer.com/ There is an email list too, www.lt1edit.com The Tunercat list is usually pretty dead, but again its the same thing other than terms used to describe fields.

If you want to weld and cut, you can get a cutting torch. I have a gasless MIG which can be converted to true MIG later, but will probably go TIG once I have the need, or just a cutting torch. This was a cheapie $300 unit just to get started and do odd jobs which didn't require a more expensive TIG. If you want to weld on stainless you really should get a TIG, if you want super clean welds TIG, MIG is good for cheapie stuff like exaust though, TIG is just easier to work with and less "mess". You also have to find a place to fill your tanks, some places will not fill YOUR tanks only ones that they lease out. This means you could be suckered into a contract if you can't find a place that will fill your own stuff, they will tell you that they dont "trust" your tanks and what if they blow up etc Tanks also carry a certification which I think is good for 2 years?